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G56 clutch problems. #1575536 02/07/14 05:12 PM 02/07/14 05:12 PM
Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 2,567 Appalachia RedRam OP master
RedRam OP master Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 2,567 Appalachia	07 2500 5.9l 69K miles G56 clutch will not disengage. mash the pedal, can not put it in gear. Acts as if you were not pushing the pedal in far enough. No noise from the throwout brg etc... Last couple of days, clutch would not engage or disengage until the pedal was almost all the way up/out. Do I risk a $100+ on a new hydraulic setup and hope that is the problem? Or go ahead and order a complete Southbend Clutch kit? No evidence of leaks, fluid level was ok but dirty. No slpiiage. Any advice before I spend money that I do not have? Thanks in advance. Troy

Re: G56 clutch problems. [Re: RedRam] #1575537 02/07/14 08:14 PM 02/07/14 08:14 PM
Joined: Aug 2003 Posts: 12,291 Kent, Wa 340SHORTY Truck Nut
340SHORTY Truck Nut Joined: Aug 2003 Posts: 12,291 Kent, Wa	Id spend some time diagnosing it before spending any money.. Id suspect a bad slave cyl.. I am truckless..

Re: G56 clutch problems. [Re: 340SHORTY] #1575538 02/07/14 08:53 PM 02/07/14 08:53 PM
Joined: Oct 2003 Posts: 21,345 Marysville, O-H-I-O 70Cuda383 Too Many Posts
70Cuda383 Too Many Posts Joined: Oct 2003 Posts: 21,345 Marysville, O-H-I-O	Same here. Why spend money on the hydraulics and then find out your disc/pressure plate is what's broke? Photobucket sucks

Re: G56 clutch problems. [Re: 70Cuda383] #1575539 02/07/14 09:55 PM 02/07/14 09:55 PM
Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 2,567 Appalachia RedRam OP master
RedRam OP master Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 2,567 Appalachia	Thanks guys I agree about not spending $, not sure how much more I can diagnose without dropping the trans(which I can't do in my driveway like a torqueflite). I want to pull the slave and check it's action when the pedal is pushed, but from what I have read, doing what I said would cause it to over extend and get air in the line.

Re: G56 clutch problems. [Re: RedRam] #1575540 02/07/14 10:37 PM 02/07/14 10:37 PM
Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 43,502 Round Lake Beach, Illinoisy Rhinodart Rhinotruck
Rhinodart Rhinotruck Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 43,502 Round Lake Beach, Illinoisy	The South Bend clutch I had done in my 07 G56 was junk from the beginning, I even took it to their shop in Indiana and they said that is the way it should sound and work! After another 500 miles I took that junk out and put in another aftermarket clutch with the same flywheel and it was fine. The funny thing about science is that if you change one miniscule parameter you change the entire outcome to the way you want it. JB Rhinehart, Realist A-Body's RULE!

Re: G56 clutch problems. [Re: Rhinodart] #1575541 02/07/14 11:20 PM 02/07/14 11:20 PM
Joined: May 2003 Posts: 1,751 Graham, WA P Polarapete top fuel
Polarapete top fuel P Joined: May 2003 Posts: 1,751 Graham, WA	My 2002 had a SB clutch installed by the PO, it was great! I had a clutch slave failure, too. You can get one here http://www.genosgarage.com/CLUTCH-SLAVE-...0/#.UvWFPvldXxc or it may be cheaper to go OEM Do your homework 1986 Dodge Ramcharger 440 2wd, Bracket Racer Under Construction 1998 Ram 2500 QuadCab, new daily driver. 2008 Honda Element 2014 Carry-On 7x14 Cargo Trailer

Re: G56 clutch problems. [Re: Polarapete] #1575542 02/08/14 02:29 AM 02/08/14 02:29 AM
Joined: Aug 2006 Posts: 8,064 Iowa 76dodgeboy master
76dodgeboy master Joined: Aug 2006 Posts: 8,064 Iowa	Where's The Red Ram!

Re: G56 clutch problems. [Re: 76dodgeboy] #1575543 02/08/14 03:21 AM 02/08/14 03:21 AM
Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 10,522 Freeport IL USA poorboy I Live Here
poorboy I Live Here Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 10,522 Freeport IL USA	You should be able to pull the slave cylinder off the bell and step on the pedal to watch it move. The rod should move out about 3/4". If its moving out, the pressure plate or throw out bearing has an issue. The last 3 clutches I've replaced had pressure plate and/or throw out bearing issues, and all of them quit disengaging. Usually the hydraulic part of the clutch system either works or it doesn't, not much can partly fail. Two nuts and a pedal push will tell the story. Gene

Re: G56 clutch problems. [Re: poorboy] #1575544 02/09/14 11:23 AM 02/09/14 11:23 AM
Joined: Oct 2003 Posts: 21,345 Marysville, O-H-I-O 70Cuda383 Too Many Posts
70Cuda383 Too Many Posts Joined: Oct 2003 Posts: 21,345 Marysville, O-H-I-O	careful doing that...the slave on my Dakota seems to have a spring in it that keeps it extended snug up against the fork. must be to keep it engaged with the fork so it doesn't fall off? when not installed and hanging free, it would fully extend by itself, and then if you stroke the clutch pedal, it would push the cup and pushrod out the end of the slave. Photobucket sucks

Re: G56 clutch problems. [Re: 70Cuda383] #1575545 02/09/14 11:41 AM 02/09/14 11:41 AM
Joined: May 2003 Posts: 15,487 Florida S scratchnfotraction I Live Here
scratchnfotraction I Live Here S Joined: May 2003 Posts: 15,487 Florida	Quote: careful doing that...the slave on my Dakota seems to have a spring in it that keeps it extended snug up against the fork. must be to keep it engaged with the fork so it doesn't fall off? when not installed and hanging free, it would fully extend by itself, and then if you stroke the clutch pedal, it would push the cup and pushrod out the end of the slave. correct. same with mine, the 2 plastic lock ties hold the rod/piston compressed in the cyl. you un-hook the ties and let the spring push the piston out to the end off bore to open the hydro line or bleed system. you push the rod back in a couple strokes to remove air then re-hook lock ties and install back into fork/bell, I just changed the clutch in my sons 94 ram, the disc eat into the flywheel and gave a no clutch issue. the disc groove in the flywheel was 3/4 the thickness of the disc itself so the PP could not hold the disc from slipping, pedel at the top of stroke to release...till it would not move at all for the no clutch problem. surprised to see disc/PP still in a burnt but fair shape looking but flywheel with a deep groove worn in it. I am thinking the clutch was replaced on a burnt/worn flywheel and then it just killed it in the short time my son drove it. sucks to have the rod drop in the bell, you have to remove bell from engine to remove rod...the very reason for the plastic lock ties. I have seen the plastic tip on the rod broken and the metal rod wear a hole thru the fork cup also for no worky clutch.

Re: G56 clutch problems. [Re: scratchnfotraction] #1575546 02/09/14 05:53 PM 02/09/14 05:53 PM
Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 2,567 Appalachia RedRam OP master
RedRam OP master Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 2,567 Appalachia	yep, you do not want to remove the slave and then push the clutch pedal. the self adjusting spring in the slave will push the pushrod all the way out and the pedal pressure will pop it out of the bore. Now, I can hold the Prod all the way in and the pedal will not move it. guess it is all going to come apart now. just wish I could do it with a cardboard creeper and a floor jack.

Re: G56 clutch problems. [Re: 76dodgeboy] #1575547 02/09/14 06:10 PM 02/09/14 06:10 PM
Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 2,567 Appalachia RedRam OP master
RedRam OP master Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 2,567 Appalachia	Quote: Where's The Red Ram! still sitting in the side yard. just don't have the funds or drive to build another short block for it. wanna buy it? 8033229-IMG_9805.JPG (251 downloads) Last edited by RedRam; 02/09/14 06:19 PM.

Re: G56 clutch problems. [Re: RedRam] #1575548 02/09/14 06:33 PM 02/09/14 06:33 PM
Joined: Oct 2003 Posts: 21,345 Marysville, O-H-I-O 70Cuda383 Too Many Posts
70Cuda383 Too Many Posts Joined: Oct 2003 Posts: 21,345 Marysville, O-H-I-O	Quote: Quote: Where's The Red Ram! still sitting in the side yard. just don't have the funds or drive to build another short block for it. wanna buy it? I've got a bare 5.9 block and magnum heads here... I could get you 400 crank HP for pretty cheap! Photobucket sucks

Re: G56 clutch problems. [Re: RedRam] #1575549 02/09/14 09:32 PM 02/09/14 09:32 PM
Joined: Apr 2010 Posts: 10,570 Sunny South Florida Golden-Arm I Live Here
Golden-Arm I Live Here Joined: Apr 2010 Posts: 10,570 Sunny South Florida	details? is it for sale, or ya just teasing us...... "When Tyranny Becomes Law, Rebellion Becomes Duty"

Re: G56 clutch problems. [Re: 70Cuda383] #1575550 02/10/14 01:12 AM 02/10/14 01:12 AM
Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 2,567 Appalachia RedRam OP master
RedRam OP master Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 2,567 Appalachia	Quote: ... I've got a bare 5.9 block and magnum heads here... I could get you 400 crank HP for pretty cheap! I have way too much invested in the RB size motors to switch. Thanks anyway.

Re: G56 clutch problems. [Re: RedRam] #1575551 02/10/14 01:13 AM 02/10/14 01:13 AM
Joined: Dec 2007 Posts: 1,357 central Florida VL21 pro stock
VL21 pro stock Joined: Dec 2007 Posts: 1,357 central Florida	Quote: yep, you do not want to remove the slave and then push the clutch pedal. the self adjusting spring in the slave will push the pushrod all the way out and the pedal pressure will pop it out of the bore. Now, I can hold the Prod all the way in and the pedal will not move it. guess it is all going to come apart now. just wish I could do it with a cardboard creeper and a floor jack. Not sure if I am understanding things right here, but if you are saying the slave isn't stroking, maybe the master is bypassing, internal leak? What does the inside of the firewall look like? I had a '93 Jeep Wrangler, same symptoms (I think) clutch master was leaking at the firewall, and not releasing the clutch. It takes gasoline to interest me.

Re: G56 clutch problems. [Re: Golden-Arm] #1575552 02/10/14 01:46 AM 02/10/14 01:46 AM
Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 2,567 Appalachia RedRam OP master
RedRam OP master Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 2,567 Appalachia	Quote: details? is it for sale, or ya just teasing us...... Yes, I would sell it. Never put any effort into trying to sell it though. If I sold it, it would be a pkg deal. that would be the truck and all of my Mopar stuff(not a lot, few rears,blocks...).

Re: G56 clutch problems. [Re: VL21] #1575553 02/10/14 02:24 AM 02/10/14 02:24 AM
Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 2,567 Appalachia RedRam OP master
RedRam OP master Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 2,567 Appalachia	Quote: ... Not sure if I am understanding things right here, but if you are saying the slave isn't stroking, maybe the master is bypassing, internal leak? What does the inside of the firewall look like? I had a '93 Jeep Wrangler, same symptoms (I think) clutch master was leaking at the firewall, and not releasing the clutch. there was no evidence of leakage, pulled the slave and yes it stroked, once. Lost pedal, then I messed the hose up while shoving the rod back into the slave cyl causing it to leak at the angled fitting on the hose end of the slave. Last edited by RedRam; 02/10/14 02:26 AM.

Re: G56 clutch problems. [Re: RedRam] #1575554 02/10/14 11:42 AM 02/10/14 11:42 AM
Joined: May 2003 Posts: 15,487 Florida S scratchnfotraction I Live Here
scratchnfotraction I Live Here S Joined: May 2003 Posts: 15,487 Florida	I found these ftting when researching info for my NV4500 swap. if yours has the roll pin/o-ring 90* fitting or a straight fitting, you can use the russel clutch/brake line fitting for dodge/jeep to run a -3AN/-4AN line. I was looking to replace the plastic line for mine. you only can get a stock factory pre-bent plastic line when buying a complete hydro clutch system that comes pre-bled and ready to use. I got my hydro MC/slave cyl from parts geek.com they have them for newer truck also that have the clutch/N-safty switch on the MC. 8034058-russelfittings.jpg (321 downloads)

Re: G56 clutch problems. [Re: scratchnfotraction] #1575555 02/11/14 12:17 AM 02/11/14 12:17 AM
Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 2,567 Appalachia RedRam OP master
RedRam OP master Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 2,567 Appalachia	Quote: I found these ftting when researching info for my NV4500 swap. if yours has the roll pin/o-ring 90* fitting or a straight fitting, you can use the russel clutch/brake line fitting for dodge/jeep to run a -3AN/-4AN line. I was looking to replace the plastic line for mine. you only can get a stock factory pre-bent plastic line when buying a complete hydro clutch system that comes pre-bled and ready to use. I got my hydro MC/slave cyl from parts geek.com they have them for newer truck also that have the clutch/N-safty switch on the MC.

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