Alright, so maybe this is a dumb ???? but I am putting a B&M shifter in my dart and am trying to figure out what I need to do to the column so this will work. I am going to remove the lever off the column and plan on just cutting off the nub, but do I need to do anything inside the column since it is a locking column. Of which unless the lever is in the park position, you cant turn the key switch back and remove the key. BTW this is on a 70 Dart, was 6 cyl 904 w/ 7 1/4, now healthy 360 727 w/ 8 3/4 3:91 suregrip. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Wow...crickets!

I'm "thinking" once you remove the column shift/interlocking equipment/column trans linkage, it won't matter. You'll just have a pre-column-lock type of column. Thankfully there are no brake interlock relays like on modern cars. I went through something similarly, replacing my floor shift steering column in the 300 with a column shift column, but my ignition was on the dash so I didn't have a bit of the issues that you are facing. I do know that after I removed the linkage at the bottom of the column to the transmission, the column shifter just moved around all loosey-goosey like...

Probably not exactly the information you were seeking, though...

I think the collar on the column moves when you go into park to unlock the ignition. If it does then you just need to make sure the collar is secured in the unlock position.

I just did something similar to my Ramcharger. Actually the truck came with a tilt column and another friend gave me a standard auto column. I then gave the original column with key back to him and it will live on in another friends '75 D100 short bed.

Anyway, take the column completely apart until you get down to the lock ring,(it has a bunch of notches in it that the lock pin fits in) remove that completely or just cut all the notches off and put it back in or make a spacer to replace it. In my case, I left it in and took out the key, lock cylinder and all and ground the collar smooth, removing the auto shifter, too. I did the same to my Coronet racer 30 years ago and then filled the hole in the collar with JB Weld. I won't be using a key to start or stop the Ramcharger (and I am leaving the hole open as a weight saving measure), but I can't have the column lock at a bad time. Your needs may differ

He's talking about the ignition key lock not the steering wheel lock. Two different things. Doing away with the toothed locking ring won't free up the key.

And I went above and beyond his needs, because mine were different and I think I said that in my post, but whatever

Well, ok. This "was" a dumb ????. I guess I had my head up my proverbial, well you know. I was just completely overthinking the whole issue. Maybe that's why I could here the "crickets". Thanks for the reply's though. Obviously, when I turn the key the wheel unlocks, and will just have to make sure the collar is up in the park position so the key can be turned back and removed. DUH!!!!

I wouldn't cut anything!
Pull the roll pin out and remove the arm but don't cut.