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what are you running that requires 50psi? I wouldn't run aluminum lines with today's choices out there.

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If his regulator is up front and his pump output
is that high then the line pressure is 50#

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what are you running that requires 50psi? I wouldn't run aluminum lines with today's choices out there.

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If his regulator is up front and his pump output
is that high then the line pressure is 50#

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Im guessing an EFI system.

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Im guessing an EFI system.

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yes thats what I figured, but if it's not needed why run that much pressure?

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I dont know why they state 25 psi as the max.. that
line has a MUCH higher burst pressure... hell in a
production car they use plastic lines and run 50#
line pressure... yes the fittings tend to be leak points
and if the line is held correctly then even cracking
is down to a minimum... I ran 1/2" alum line on my
car and had it on there for 10 years without a single
leak... I changed over to braided line and now I am
thinking to go back to alum

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don't know you will have to call and ask, I have had ethanol in my braided line going on 2 years with no leaks.

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I have 4 or 5 years on my braided line running E-85
for that time period and no issues

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The Ethanol will eat non hard anadized aluminum just like Methanol does even our local E10% pump gas will OP, make sure and buy hard anadized coated, inside and outside aluminum line and fittings for your deal That or stainless steel lines Teflon lined hose will not be affected by either type of pure or mixed alcholol is what I have told by the airplane industry, Teflon is the answer for heat, pressure and corrosive liquids according to them

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Even with hard anodized alum line it will crack the
hard coating when its bent with the bender... 2 things
that I know of arent effected by any fuel are Teflon
and Viton lined products... with Ethanol it carries
water and it corrodes the alum line when air contacts
it, but if it never sees air its not a problem..
but thats hard to do

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I think my choice will be stainless lines.

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I agree, plus, any small fire and alum is gone and now a much worse fire, plus e85 options

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I just got a new roll of 5/8 Jegs brand aluminum fuel line and It specifically says max pressure 25# and also states that this product is not to be used on EFI systems,,in other words it's intended for plain old no frill's low pressure fuel line.

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They must be running a thinner wall tubing now days
to say 25# max... they never use to say that... I
have a roll of 1/2" from Summit hanging on the wall
that I bought about a year ago and it didnt say that

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You can bet some lawyer was involved in that decision... either proactively before litigation or because of some.

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No doubt

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You can bet some lawyer was involved in that decision... either proactively before litigation or because of some.

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that wouldn't be a suprise to me, according to the tag it also states that it is .035 wall seamless which I believe is industry standard, I am also thinking that maybe Jegs themselves are trying to make sure that the buyer is well aware of it's intended use, I also know that I have used a lot of Jeg's house brand Items and have yet to have a quality issue, as far as the OP, I am under the thinking he need's to definately step up to a much higher quality system than aluminum line, no matter who makes it.

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Inverteed flare steel line. The aluminum uses tube inserts or shoulders, but the biggest problem is it is very crack prone, and not what I would want on a 50PSI sytem.

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Inverteed flare steel line. The aluminum uses tube inserts or shoulders, but the biggest problem is it is very crack prone, and not what I would want on a 50PSI sytem.

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I have run 1800 psi in 3/8" aluminum, but you need to make it right. Tim

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By right do you mean having the other end open? other wise I think your gage was off by about 1775 pounds

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25 psi limit is laughable.

Lets use 3003 alum which is sort of popular for fuel line IIRC. Tensile strength is in the 13K+ range if my data is correct.

Let figure out burst pressure!

P = (2t x S) / O

Where:

P is burst pressure in PSI
t is wall thickness, in inches .035
S is tensile strength of material in PSI 13,000
O is outside diameter, inches .375

P = (2*.035*13000)/.375
P = .070*13000/.375
P = 910/.375
P = 2426

That's just a bit more burst pressure than 25 psi...

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I think my choice will be stainless lines.

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especially if he is streeting it at all. I did a set for my 300 a while back, using the stock routing. Not easy to work with though. Make the correct bend the first time when making up your lines, because rebending stainless is difficult.

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Absolutely. Street miles and the extended vibration and usage play havoc on things for sure...especially when you view it as "time" in use.

The decision for mine was only too easy since it's 98% street and only 2% race anyway. Besides - how much of a weight difference could there possibly be?

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Steel line for the same size is 2X the weight... I
dont mind making the line in steel but I wouldnt do
stainless.. that stuff is way to hard to work with..
and yes I've bent PLENTY of stainless lines while
I worked in the fuel lab.. and I have all the good
bending and flaring equipment... its just to hard to
correct if you mess up and too costly if you do mess
up... I never had any issues with the alum line on
my car and that was on there 10 years..... any leak
can cause a fire..... also if the alum line was so
bad the NHRA wouldnt allow it and they do... I would
bet 80% of the cars on this board and others run
the alum line

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So stainless will be ok? I really don't care if it's hard to work with, I will have minimal bends anyway until I get to the engine bay area. Another question...What kind of tubing does it need to be shielded with in the bellhousing area?

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If I remember right its a 1/8" wall steel tubing to
protect the fuel line(any fuel line) in the bell housing
area to be legal

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Cool I've got some old roll cage tubing that should work then. Can the fuel line come up inside the engine bay or does it have to be outside the rail and come in?

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This is just the way I do it... I run down the frame
rail on the inside then around the rail near the
A-pillar zone and up into the wheel housing and go
through the inner fender and mount the regulator
at that point... then to the carb

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I have done stainless lines on multiple street/strip cars. One was a daily driver with 15K miles on it before I redid the fuel system, another was a fair weather car with 20K+ miles over 10 years, trips out the PA pike to Carslisle, etc. no signs of fatigue. There are tube to AN adapters that make converting the lines clean and simple.

With any metal lines, you have to mind vibration. I just use Adel style cushioned clamps, or scetions of hose to isolate the line. It is also very easy to get carried away while tightening ferrules (Swagelok says 1.25 turns from finger tight as a guideline for most sizes) I have also used brass fittings/ferrules in the past on stainless lines. Sometimes the threads on the stainless fittings have a tency to gall when gasoline is involved, also, the brass is softer so the ferrules won't dig into the tubing as much (with SS lines and fittings, it is go to a couple thousand PSI, so there is some room to work with.)

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The 1.25 turn guideline is for setting the furrel to the line during the cinching of the ring's and nut,once cinched then it don't take anywhere that much of a turn to tighten from finger tight.

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One thing to keep in mind when you go on a forum to get suggestions. Some cars are raced weekly, some are raced one or two times a year, some are show queens, and some are unfinished projects or just sit in the shop being used as a workbench. Heck some of these guys could us bamboo shoots for fuel line and it would hold up.
Keep that in mind when you make your choice.

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Ain't that the truth, no more than I have been out in the last two years I would probably be in the bamboo shoot class.

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I have done stainless lines on multiple street/strip cars. One was a daily driver with 15K miles on it before I redid the fuel system, another was a fair weather car with 20K+ miles over 10 years, trips out the PA pike to Carslisle, etc. no signs of fatigue. There are tube to AN adapters that make converting the lines clean and simple.

With any metal lines, you have to mind vibration. I just use Adel style cushioned clamps, or scetions of hose to isolate the line. It is also very easy to get carried away while tightening ferrules (Swagelok says 1.25 turns from finger tight as a guideline for most sizes) I have also used brass fittings/ferrules in the past on stainless lines. Sometimes the threads on the stainless fittings have a tency to gall when gasoline is involved, also, the brass is softer so the ferrules won't dig into the tubing as much (with SS lines and fittings, it is go to a couple thousand PSI, so there is some room to work with.)

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I have done stainless lines on multiple street/strip cars. One was a daily driver with 15K miles on it before I redid the fuel system, another was a fair weather car with 20K+ miles over 10 years, trips out the PA pike to Carslisle, etc. no signs of fatigue. There are tube to AN adapters that make converting the lines clean and simple.

With any metal lines, you have to mind vibration. I just use Adel style cushioned clamps, or scetions of hose to isolate the line. It is also very easy to get carried away while tightening ferrules (Swagelok says 1.25 turns from finger tight as a guideline for most sizes) I have also used brass fittings/ferrules in the past on stainless lines. Sometimes the threads on the stainless fittings have a tency to gall when gasoline is involved, also, the brass is softer so the ferrules won't dig into the tubing as much (with SS lines and fittings, it is go to a couple thousand PSI, so there is some room to work with.)

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You DON'T use ferrules, you use flares in all cases for something as important as fuel lines!

Ferrules will leak eventually just like aluminum line will.