I'm going to start the rebuild / resto process on the AVS original to my 68 Sport Fury 440 HP. The carb is all there and intact, but looks every bit of it's 45 years old. I'd like to blast the exterior of the carb to brighten the finish to a fresh OEM appearance, but I don't know if that's the right way to go about it. Or what material to use if it is the right method. I'm guessing something not very aggressive, so I've got some walnut shells and some plastic media available.

So, is a mild media blast the right choice, or should I be looking at something else like a chemical etch?

Thanks,

Clair

DO NOT BLAST THAT CARB. If you want an oem finish call Jim Ridge at Dixi Restorations, or Scott Harm.Once you blast it, it can't be un blasted. Sorry about yelling.

When you blast it, it changes the texture of the surface. The guys at Dixi restorations won't do an alternator, after it has been blasted.

While IMO it is not a good thing to media blast a carb, and doing so WILL change the original factory texture forever.

However, as Bill pointed out, it is possible to bring them back to "close" to original appearance with the right restoration effort.

I glass bead my carbs with great results. Not perfect, but really nice. The trick is getting media out of passages. Here is a picture of a pair on a hemi I had done.

I made my statement on what the OP said. He wanted a nice OEM appearance. Once you blast it, that goes out the window, yes you can make it look good, but OEM is gone.I used to do motorcycle heads all the time, but if I ever wanted to truly restore one, and it had been blasted, it was a dead hunk of metal. One other thing, after being blasted, when you touch it with anything but a clean hand, it will hold the dirt or whatever was on your hand.

Well, I guess this is what I was hoping to find out. About as close as I've seen to original, untouched OEM finish is on a box-stock 9000-series TQ I bought at a swap meet, and a couple of AFB's that my Dad bought over the counter many, many moons ago. As far as I can tell, the finish is probably the sand cast (or whatever the molds were) finish of bare aluminum. If the carbs were treated with something afterwards, I couldn't tell you what it was or what it looked like.

What I don't want to end up with is the everything-is-the-same-color-silver bead-blasted look that you sometimes see. All of the hardware that can be removed will be, but if ANY blasting is going to have a similar effect, then that's out. I just figured that since the plastic media and the walnut shells were pretty big and relatively mild, they might be an option.

I've seen some of Scott's work, and I would love to farm this out to Scott, but that's a level of detail that I need to save for a later day. I want to do as much of this myself as I can, but I don't want to ruin the potential for a real restoration later.

Thanks!

Clair

You might try cleaning it within an inch of its life, and painting it with one of the Eastwood paints that kinda match. At least then the surface texture will be saved till later when you or someone else might want to do the job right. Paint can be stripped.It will look good, and be protected.

Try aluminum wheel cleaner.

I think what would be nice is for the hobbyist to say did this way instead I gave up and sent it to the professional guy.

Anyone ever try this?

http://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/auto/paint-chemicals/rust-stripper/

product was listed in an article in Mopar Action last winter (??) on restoring cast aluminum parts... was part of a process disclosed in an interview with dave walden.

I did a test with wood bleach to see what it would do to aluminum. I soaked this coil spring spacer in it. It turned out really nice. Maybe that's an option? I'd try it on a scrap carb first.

I have a friend in AU that did his own,he is on FBBO,below is the link,scroll through it and see what he did.He had his vapor blasted,it does a really nice job.

http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/showthread.php?55818-Carter-AFB-restoration/page2

Well, it looks like I ought to give a few of these options a try. That way at least I could report on some results for all to see. I've got some bare aluminum wheel cleaner that has done a great job on my wheels, and I figure it would work OK on the carb body, too.

The wood bleach - oxalic acid - would probably work great, too. It's one of the chemicals I use in a watch movement cleaning solution that brightens the brass & steel parts. May try it in the Barkeeper's Friend formula, too, it has a very mild abrasive content.

I think pretty much all of the steel on the carb will need to be replated eventually, but I'll see how that cleans up, too.

More to follow,

Clair

Be Careful. I used eagle one wheel cleaner on a good distributor body and it darkened the body VERY fast... in less than 30 seconds.

Pontoon cleaner, bathroom scum & iron removal chemicals (e.g. The Works), or vinegar. These are all acids, listed from strongest to weakest. They will take some time, and you'll need to work it with small, short stiff brushes and probably a few applications, but should turn out pretty good.

My 4966s was dark too.
I do not know if because of the metal alloy used in the Carter Carbs, but the same does not happen with the holley carbs.

Holley's are a different casting material,same for the Q Jet,they all finish differently depending on the process.

I don't have a picture but I just went out to the garage and shot an old AFB with baking soda ,I only had a little to use ..(took it from the fridge while she was out)..anyway,,the small spot I did came out nice ...Think I'll go get some and do the AFB on the 64 383..