Yes they have a coil over the shock, mine were made by Gabriel and they are longer than the other A-bodies shocks I have seen but I forget how much longer. Gonna need to change them since one of the shocks is dented. My car is mainly street driven.

Jesse

Those things, like air shocks shouldn't be used at all. They put loads on the shock mounts that weren't intended. Have you ever seen an upper mount go through the trunk (or a reapired mount area)? This was a big problem back in the day.

On an A-body car the 2001 Dodge shock worked well.
My shocks are dented as well. I would not worry about that.

I am running KYB's in front, any suggestions for brand. I can change all of em. And is that a 1/2 ton truck or ? Thanks

Jesse

Quote:

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On an A-body car the 2001 Dodge shock worked well.
My shocks are dented as well. I would not worry about that.

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Thanks for the tips

i use Gabreil red ryder gas shocks from a f-150 pu . 2wd.
the lenght is just right and there cheap like $9.99 at the auto store ..
its a cheap way to see if they will work for you
1 hour and 20 bucks..
my 3410 duster goes 1.39 60 fts with these and its on a small slick. 10"
for the cost its a no biggie if it doesnt work as aposed to $89.@ shocks just to find out there is no improvement.
cheap.

I posted this on my own thread but will see if I get a responce here:


Ran the Dart on Sun. 360 ci 727 4.30 28x11.5 33080lbs
60's were in the 1.55 1.54. This is with an Et of 10.93 10.92.

.810 T-bars Koni spa-1's full loose Car is set with a slight rake.

SS springs all factory clamps ,Rancho RS9000 set at 6, pinion snubber

When we added 4 spring clamps to the front and back portion of the smallest leaf and removed the snubber the car went 1.51. The launch looked a lot smoother.

Should the rear spring clamps be on the smallest leaf or the next leaf up?

Your 60' picked up with the clamps, an the snubber out?
Where do you have the clamps at now?
Your car may like more of a rake. Maybe as much as 3".

The added clamps are on the smallest leaf front and back. This places the clamps within the dia of the rim. Plus I have all the original clamps on.

The car always responded better with a level rake but it seams detrimental now.

I don't think it pitch rotates the best it has ever. Although I'm not driving right now so I see it from a different perspective.

THanks forthis great post. This is perfect info for me as i have the same setup and want it to hook good. I have seen you guys say the 2001 dodge truck shocks for a bodys but what about cheapo over the counter shocks 1970 dodge challenger with espo heavy duty springs and a dana 60 and no snubber and small block bars up front and a 493 stroker with 4.10's and 11" wide tires?

ANy suggestions?

Hey Cheap great idea about the 20 bucks, my only concern is getting a shock with the good length and the right size bushings to fit the upper and lower mounts.

Jesse

Quote:

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i use Gabreil red ryder gas shocks from a f-150 pu . 2wd.
the lenght is just right and there cheap like $9.99 at the auto store ..
its a cheap way to see if they will work for you
1 hour and 20 bucks..
my 3410 duster goes 1.39 60 fts with these and its on a small slick. 10"
for the cost its a no biggie if it doesnt work as aposed to $89.@ shocks just to find out there is no improvement.
cheap.

---

I wanted to report my results from today. I went to the track with Prosport for the Sunday combo. I run superstock springs and the car can be inconsistent at 42 because they do not prep the track well. My 60's are usually 1.49 to 1.51 (28 by 10.5 Mickey slick)which is typical for a "normal" day. That means they blow off the dust and put down about 2 feet of track bite.
I had just made some clamps for the springs, set up the comp shocks as directed and ran the air pressure at my typical 13.5 lbs. The car went 1.491, then three straight 1.483's!!! I was very pleased because the car has always bounced when leaving. Today it was so smooth it felt like it was soft. I ran mid 10.50's at only 127 into the wind. I was down a solid 2 mph compared to normal. Prosport was spinning (Bob rarely spins) as was a lot of other people and that told me the track was not set on kill today. I am confident the directions 572 gave worked. Thanks for the help!!

10secduster, where did you add the extra clamps? Did you add any behind the axle? Thanks

I added the clamps behind the axle as was recommended. I used 1/4" by 1.5" bar stock from Lowes. It only cost $8 total.

Whats up 572
Thanx for the tips which has helped most of us S/S guy's.
I never got which actual truck gas shock you run, part #s make etc. maybe its an Area 51 policy of your's. If it is, I will not push it any further. I know these things cost time, effort and patience but come-on man there's killa Bowties, Horses, and bottle fed hybrids lurkin' in our backyards lookin' 4 a fight.
tell you what, I'll barter my Pop's secret Beans recipe for a #.
whatta-u-say?
Peace

Come on Shawn, Give it up. Your the king of springs

I have a 65 Coronet convertible. I put 3800lb SS springs on my car. It sits lopsided. Slightly. The driver side is about an inch higher than the passenger. Is this normal? I weigh 170lbs and it levels out when I get in.

My car sat the same way with the 3800# springs. if you have them in with the most leafs in the front section faceing foward on the right side you have them in right.
As for shocks I use a rear shock that is listed for a 94 Dakota 4x4 in my B body it is 1/2 shorter than a M.P. SS shock. Ther is also Speedway motors thay have a shock that is the same lenth as M.P. SS shock thay come in 3 different shock types light, medum and heavy. Thay are 16" compressed and 26-1/4 extended 10-1/4 travle and are $29.95. I have not used thes shocks yet but plan on puting a set of medums on soon.