FRONT SHOCKS
I have used adjustable shocks, but the stock ones seem to work the best.
TORSION BARS
I have used different sizes. Have used MP Drag bars an even tried turning a set down on the lathe. Stock slant 6, stock 318 bars. The Drag bars worked ok, but they did not seem to last very long. Were always cranking them back up because they would lose there strength. The stock 318 bars have seemed to work the best.
Torsion bars have a front an back an left an right. Need to make sure they are installed correctly. (Popular Hot Rodding March 2002 pgs 66-70) all about T-bars.
SUPER STOCK SPRINGS
You have to have the correct weighted rated spring, for the weight of your car. My car weighs 3700 lbs. I use 3800lb rated springs. MP #312-P3690454 R #312-P3690455 L
Don’t take out or ad leafs to the springs!
SPRING CLAMPS
Do not take off the factory clamps. I have added clamps to the first segment of leafs in front of the axel on BOTH sides. I Also have added clamps on the first segment of leafs after the axel on BOTH sides. An have added one clamp on the drivers side, in front of the factory clamp towards the rear of the spring. You will have to make sure that these will not get in the way with your tires. I have had to grind on the springs to get clearance. They will need to be checked often because they will move around.
REAR SHACKEL
Do not change the location hole of the shackle. I use the factory shackles.
PINION ANGLE
I have used the shims that are installed between the axel an springs they worked fine. I have now welded my rear end to 7*.
REAR SHOCKS
You have got to have a rear shock that extends further than the body travels! If you have a shock that is to short the car will unload the tires, leaf springs will open to quick an it will spin. I have used many different shocks. 2 sets of adjustable Comps., adjustable Ranchos, original factory shocks, an many truck shocks. I have even tested shocks on a shock dyno. I see no gains with any of the adjustable shocks NONE. The best shock that worked for me was ones made for heavy trucks. Before installing shocks compress both at the same time, a release them at the same time. The one that comes up the slowest is now the RIGHT rear shock.
RAKE
You need to have some rake in the car. I have around 2”. I measure this on the frame directly behind the front wheel, an on the frame directly in the front of the rear tire.
TIRE PRESSURE
I have to stagger tire pressure. I stagger mine with a 1/2lb more in the right
rear. Some cars we have worked on require more than a 1/2lb of stagger. I have found that if the tire pressure is the same in both tires it will drive to the right every time.

These tips may not work for you. This is what I have done to mine, an I can 60’ low
1.40s on the back tires off an idle.

Good deal. Looks like you have most everything covered. Mods, archive please.

"REAR SHACKEL
Do not change the location hole of the shackle. I use the factory shackles."

Note- If you have an A-body and use any of the springs listed as B/E body the rear segment of the spring is longer by about an inch or so. The location of the rear hole may have to be moved. mine did.-Tom.

Thank You Shawn this is great stuff.

Jesse

Shawn, thanks for the info. I've been trying to set mine up as per your suggestions. Only question I have is are you using gas or hyd. shocks? I tried the MP long drag shocks. They were junk. Car was inconsistant. Put hyd. long shocks on and got my 60's back where they needed to be. Jim

MP shocks would work pretty good on your screen door, not in a race car. My shocks are gas.

Shawn good stuff here. Just about the way I run mine . I add a 1/2 leaf to the top front section befor clamping 2800# SS springs. And I use a shackel that is 1" longer in the rear. I use a shock from a Dakota 4x4 I think it is a gas shock. I have found that more than 2" sill differnce front to back does not pitch rotate as well.
The set of springs I have in the car now were 3800# SS-springs that I took leafs out of to match my 2800# springs that were twisted in Mexico. When I put the 2800# spring next to the 3800# spring what I saw was that if I took out 2 leaf from the 3800# I had the same lenths on all the leafs as the 2800# spring. So we will see if these work ok or not. By the way my car is only 2840 with out driver.

Only thing I would not agree on is not moving the location hole of the shackle. Factory MP Chassis books for years have stated the top shackle bolt needs to be forward of the rear one, so that the shackle moves in an arc, allowing the car to rise. I moved mine forward and the chassis definitely has more rise with it installed this way. Car is a 73 Dart Sport with 002 and 003 SS springs.

I switched to the 002/003with a 1/2 leaf on the passenger side, from the beefy SS springs in my Charger, havent test yet but from advice from Chuck Lofgren he said for a starting point passenger side one clamp right at the 1-2 leaf next to the hanger and one on the 2-3 leaf,driver side one clamp 1-2 leaf next to the shackle and a clamp on the 2-3, also about a 2-3 degree rake, level the car with the TB which will pre load the right rear because of the 1/2 leaf, 7 degrees pinion angle and a proper front end alignment

Nice post, Shawn! What about snubbers? use one or not? if so, what kinda space or preload? Is that a Dodge truck rear shock? Possible to get a part number? What rear tire do you run on that car? What front alignment specs?

When you say your using shock for a heavy truck what truck are you talking about ? Are they from a 3500 ?

2001 3/4 dodge 2w/d 21 inc long gas shock

572 do you use the aluminum bushing in the front spring eye

Vern, yes yes and yes also an aluminum bushing on the hanger it is getting late I will scan a pic and try and post it, by no means am an expert just doing what is told by someone who is knowledgable about this along with 572.

No pinion snubber.

I dont use a 2001 Dodge 3/4 shocks. They work good on a Dart. Mine are gas shocks.

13.5" Phoenix with tubes.

I do my own front end alignment.

I use aluminum front eye bushings.

tazmaniac is right on!

Some things I did not put in the outher post that I should have.
I use a 2" lowering block to get my ride highth and make it from aluminum bar stock. I mill the angle I nead to get my pinion angle. the pin is made from a 1/2" bolt cut off.
I allso run aluminum bushing in the front eye.
I use a pinion snubber It is home made from box tubing cut on an angle and longer than stock type, the rubber bushing is from a front limitor , you allways want the rubber to be tapered so as not to be a dead stop.
I am sure there are outher things I missed.

How would a early B-body load leveler shock work on an A-Body Cuda. The type with a spring over the shock.

Jesse

Quote:

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No pinion snubber.

I dont use a 2001 Dodge 3/4 shocks. They work good on a Dart. Mine are gas shocks.

13.5" Phoenix with tubes.

I do my own front end alignment.

I use aluminum front eye bushings.

tazmaniac is right on!

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what is a load leveler shock?