FRONT SHOCKS
I have used adjustable shocks, but the stock ones seem to work the best.
TORSION BARS
I have used different sizes. Have used MP Drag bars an even tried turning a set down on the lathe. Stock slant 6, stock 318 bars. The Drag bars worked ok, but they did not seem to last very long. Were always cranking them back up because they would lose there strength. The stock 318 bars have seemed to work the best.
Torsion bars have a front an back an left an right. Need to make sure they are installed correctly. (Popular Hot Rodding March 2002 pgs 66-70) all about T-bars.
SUPER STOCK SPRINGS
You have to have the correct weighted rated spring, for the weight of your car. My car weighs 3700 lbs. I use 3800lb rated springs. MP #312-P3690454 R #312-P3690455 L
Don’t take out or ad leafs to the springs!
SPRING CLAMPS
Do not take off the factory clamps. I have added clamps to the first segment of leafs in front of the axel on BOTH sides. I Also have added clamps on the first segment of leafs after the axel on BOTH sides. An have added one clamp on the drivers side, in front of the factory clamp towards the rear of the spring. You will have to make sure that these will not get in the way with your tires. I have had to grind on the springs to get clearance. They will need to be checked often because they will move around.
REAR SHACKEL
Do not change the location hole of the shackle. I use the factory shackles.
PINION ANGLE
I have used the shims that are installed between the axel an springs they worked fine. I have now welded my rear end to 7*.
REAR SHOCKS
You have got to have a rear shock that extends further than the body travels! If you have a shock that is to short the car will unload the tires, leaf springs will open to quick an it will spin. I have used many different shocks. 2 sets of adjustable Comps., adjustable Ranchos, original factory shocks, an many truck shocks. I have even tested shocks on a shock dyno. I see no gains with any of the adjustable shocks NONE. The best shock that worked for me was ones made for heavy trucks. Before installing shocks compress both at the same time, a release them at the same time. The one that comes up the slowest is now the RIGHT rear shock.
RAKE
You need to have some rake in the car. I have around 2”. I measure this on the frame directly behind the front wheel, an on the frame directly in the front of the rear tire.
TIRE PRESSURE
I have to stagger tire pressure. I stagger mine with a 1/2lb more in the right
rear. Some cars we have worked on require more than a 1/2lb of stagger. I have found that if the tire pressure is the same in both tires it will drive to the right every time.

These tips may not work for you. This is what I have done to mine, an I can 60’ low
1.40s on the back tires off an idle.

Good deal. Looks like you have most everything covered. Mods, archive please.

"REAR SHACKEL
Do not change the location hole of the shackle. I use the factory shackles."

Note- If you have an A-body and use any of the springs listed as B/E body the rear segment of the spring is longer by about an inch or so. The location of the rear hole may have to be moved. mine did.-Tom.

Thank You Shawn this is great stuff.

Jesse

Shawn, thanks for the info. I've been trying to set mine up as per your suggestions. Only question I have is are you using gas or hyd. shocks? I tried the MP long drag shocks. They were junk. Car was inconsistant. Put hyd. long shocks on and got my 60's back where they needed to be. Jim

MP shocks would work pretty good on your screen door, not in a race car. My shocks are gas.

Shawn good stuff here. Just about the way I run mine . I add a 1/2 leaf to the top front section befor clamping 2800# SS springs. And I use a shackel that is 1" longer in the rear. I use a shock from a Dakota 4x4 I think it is a gas shock. I have found that more than 2" sill differnce front to back does not pitch rotate as well.
The set of springs I have in the car now were 3800# SS-springs that I took leafs out of to match my 2800# springs that were twisted in Mexico. When I put the 2800# spring next to the 3800# spring what I saw was that if I took out 2 leaf from the 3800# I had the same lenths on all the leafs as the 2800# spring. So we will see if these work ok or not. By the way my car is only 2840 with out driver.

Only thing I would not agree on is not moving the location hole of the shackle. Factory MP Chassis books for years have stated the top shackle bolt needs to be forward of the rear one, so that the shackle moves in an arc, allowing the car to rise. I moved mine forward and the chassis definitely has more rise with it installed this way. Car is a 73 Dart Sport with 002 and 003 SS springs.

I switched to the 002/003with a 1/2 leaf on the passenger side, from the beefy SS springs in my Charger, havent test yet but from advice from Chuck Lofgren he said for a starting point passenger side one clamp right at the 1-2 leaf next to the hanger and one on the 2-3 leaf,driver side one clamp 1-2 leaf next to the shackle and a clamp on the 2-3, also about a 2-3 degree rake, level the car with the TB which will pre load the right rear because of the 1/2 leaf, 7 degrees pinion angle and a proper front end alignment

Nice post, Shawn! What about snubbers? use one or not? if so, what kinda space or preload? Is that a Dodge truck rear shock? Possible to get a part number? What rear tire do you run on that car? What front alignment specs?

When you say your using shock for a heavy truck what truck are you talking about ? Are they from a 3500 ?

2001 3/4 dodge 2w/d 21 inc long gas shock

572 do you use the aluminum bushing in the front spring eye

Vern, yes yes and yes also an aluminum bushing on the hanger it is getting late I will scan a pic and try and post it, by no means am an expert just doing what is told by someone who is knowledgable about this along with 572.

No pinion snubber.

I dont use a 2001 Dodge 3/4 shocks. They work good on a Dart. Mine are gas shocks.

13.5" Phoenix with tubes.

I do my own front end alignment.

I use aluminum front eye bushings.

tazmaniac is right on!

Some things I did not put in the outher post that I should have.
I use a 2" lowering block to get my ride highth and make it from aluminum bar stock. I mill the angle I nead to get my pinion angle. the pin is made from a 1/2" bolt cut off.
I allso run aluminum bushing in the front eye.
I use a pinion snubber It is home made from box tubing cut on an angle and longer than stock type, the rubber bushing is from a front limitor , you allways want the rubber to be tapered so as not to be a dead stop.
I am sure there are outher things I missed.

How would a early B-body load leveler shock work on an A-Body Cuda. The type with a spring over the shock.

Jesse

Quote:

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No pinion snubber.

I dont use a 2001 Dodge 3/4 shocks. They work good on a Dart. Mine are gas shocks.

13.5" Phoenix with tubes.

I do my own front end alignment.

I use aluminum front eye bushings.

tazmaniac is right on!

---

what is a load leveler shock?

Yes they have a coil over the shock, mine were made by Gabriel and they are longer than the other A-bodies shocks I have seen but I forget how much longer. Gonna need to change them since one of the shocks is dented. My car is mainly street driven.

Jesse

Those things, like air shocks shouldn't be used at all. They put loads on the shock mounts that weren't intended. Have you ever seen an upper mount go through the trunk (or a reapired mount area)? This was a big problem back in the day.

On an A-body car the 2001 Dodge shock worked well.
My shocks are dented as well. I would not worry about that.

I am running KYB's in front, any suggestions for brand. I can change all of em. And is that a 1/2 ton truck or ? Thanks

Jesse

Quote:

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On an A-body car the 2001 Dodge shock worked well.
My shocks are dented as well. I would not worry about that.

---

Thanks for the tips

i use Gabreil red ryder gas shocks from a f-150 pu . 2wd.
the lenght is just right and there cheap like $9.99 at the auto store ..
its a cheap way to see if they will work for you
1 hour and 20 bucks..
my 3410 duster goes 1.39 60 fts with these and its on a small slick. 10"
for the cost its a no biggie if it doesnt work as aposed to $89.@ shocks just to find out there is no improvement.
cheap.

I posted this on my own thread but will see if I get a responce here:


Ran the Dart on Sun. 360 ci 727 4.30 28x11.5 33080lbs
60's were in the 1.55 1.54. This is with an Et of 10.93 10.92.

.810 T-bars Koni spa-1's full loose Car is set with a slight rake.

SS springs all factory clamps ,Rancho RS9000 set at 6, pinion snubber

When we added 4 spring clamps to the front and back portion of the smallest leaf and removed the snubber the car went 1.51. The launch looked a lot smoother.

Should the rear spring clamps be on the smallest leaf or the next leaf up?

Your 60' picked up with the clamps, an the snubber out?
Where do you have the clamps at now?
Your car may like more of a rake. Maybe as much as 3".

The added clamps are on the smallest leaf front and back. This places the clamps within the dia of the rim. Plus I have all the original clamps on.

The car always responded better with a level rake but it seams detrimental now.

I don't think it pitch rotates the best it has ever. Although I'm not driving right now so I see it from a different perspective.

THanks forthis great post. This is perfect info for me as i have the same setup and want it to hook good. I have seen you guys say the 2001 dodge truck shocks for a bodys but what about cheapo over the counter shocks 1970 dodge challenger with espo heavy duty springs and a dana 60 and no snubber and small block bars up front and a 493 stroker with 4.10's and 11" wide tires?

ANy suggestions?

Hey Cheap great idea about the 20 bucks, my only concern is getting a shock with the good length and the right size bushings to fit the upper and lower mounts.

Jesse

Quote:

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i use Gabreil red ryder gas shocks from a f-150 pu . 2wd.
the lenght is just right and there cheap like $9.99 at the auto store ..
its a cheap way to see if they will work for you
1 hour and 20 bucks..
my 3410 duster goes 1.39 60 fts with these and its on a small slick. 10"
for the cost its a no biggie if it doesnt work as aposed to $89.@ shocks just to find out there is no improvement.
cheap.

---

I wanted to report my results from today. I went to the track with Prosport for the Sunday combo. I run superstock springs and the car can be inconsistent at 42 because they do not prep the track well. My 60's are usually 1.49 to 1.51 (28 by 10.5 Mickey slick)which is typical for a "normal" day. That means they blow off the dust and put down about 2 feet of track bite.
I had just made some clamps for the springs, set up the comp shocks as directed and ran the air pressure at my typical 13.5 lbs. The car went 1.491, then three straight 1.483's!!! I was very pleased because the car has always bounced when leaving. Today it was so smooth it felt like it was soft. I ran mid 10.50's at only 127 into the wind. I was down a solid 2 mph compared to normal. Prosport was spinning (Bob rarely spins) as was a lot of other people and that told me the track was not set on kill today. I am confident the directions 572 gave worked. Thanks for the help!!

10secduster, where did you add the extra clamps? Did you add any behind the axle? Thanks

I added the clamps behind the axle as was recommended. I used 1/4" by 1.5" bar stock from Lowes. It only cost $8 total.

Whats up 572
Thanx for the tips which has helped most of us S/S guy's.
I never got which actual truck gas shock you run, part #s make etc. maybe its an Area 51 policy of your's. If it is, I will not push it any further. I know these things cost time, effort and patience but come-on man there's killa Bowties, Horses, and bottle fed hybrids lurkin' in our backyards lookin' 4 a fight.
tell you what, I'll barter my Pop's secret Beans recipe for a #.
whatta-u-say?
Peace

Come on Shawn, Give it up. Your the king of springs

I have a 65 Coronet convertible. I put 3800lb SS springs on my car. It sits lopsided. Slightly. The driver side is about an inch higher than the passenger. Is this normal? I weigh 170lbs and it levels out when I get in.

My car sat the same way with the 3800# springs. if you have them in with the most leafs in the front section faceing foward on the right side you have them in right.
As for shocks I use a rear shock that is listed for a 94 Dakota 4x4 in my B body it is 1/2 shorter than a M.P. SS shock. Ther is also Speedway motors thay have a shock that is the same lenth as M.P. SS shock thay come in 3 different shock types light, medum and heavy. Thay are 16" compressed and 26-1/4 extended 10-1/4 travle and are $29.95. I have not used thes shocks yet but plan on puting a set of medums on soon.

All the cars I've seen have been higher on the right side, More springs on that side. Did you put the springs on the correct side??

I'll check them again. They have different part numbers and I installed them according to which one was listed left or right. I suppose the part numbers could have been flip flopped. How many springs should be on the left and how many on the right? Thanks for the help.

Most leafs on the right side but if you went by the part numbers then they are probably in correctly. You may be a victim of junky Mexican manufactured SS springs. There have been many ride height issues since they quit making them in Canada.

I was told left is higher to compensate for passenger weight .Does it level when you sit in it.

From the MOPAR chassis book 8th edition page 161
These springs should be purchased and installed in sets- one right and one left. these suspentions were biased from the factory. this means that the RIGHT spring is "stiffer" than the left. visualy this means that the RIGHT spring has more leaves(7 vs. 6 typically,) especially in the FRONT segment ( beteeen the center bolt and the front spring eye ).
It goes on
Hope this helps

Are we talking about the M.P. superstock springs or the aftermarket versions? I talked to Greg Luneak of Tri-City Competition some time ago and he told me that the M.P. ss springs were not very good. I talked to a guy at the Mopars-in-May show last weekend who told me the set of M.P. ss springs he used on his racecar lasted about 5 passes before distorting to the point where he thought driving his car was dangerous. He had a set made by Tri-City that were much better but he was looking to go with Cal Tracs as he was going to start using N02 and he thought he was to the limit of even his aftermarket SS springs.(low 6 second 1/8th mile) What is the real story on the M.P. superstock springs? -Bob

Very good info here, but I cant bring myself to have a car with 2" rake over 50" of body length.. It takes a lot of tinkerring with your car, but you can take all these and apply them to a car with .5" of rake, and it doesnt look like you're running "High Jackers"..(who remembers those??)

Bob you are right about the Mopar SS-springs the last set I got went away quick. I don't know if the outher brands have the same setup ( extra leave faceing foward on the passenger side).

I have the MP SS springs on my car and it sits about an inch or so higher on the driver side. It does sit level when I get in. I'm sure they are in right. My brother (340rick) told me the new ones (made in Mexico) are not as good as the old ones. Thanks for all the advice and I feel better now knowing it's likely the springs and not the car or me.

ive got a few questions also regarding the ss rear spring setup.
we had a lower shock mount stud break tonight, where would i get a new set of these so that i can run the newer dodge truck shocks as have been posted above.

the studs on this 69 dart are roughly 11/16 diameter and il need something in the 1/2 inch or slightly bigger range. actual measurement is roughly .565 or so.

also, to clarify this one more time, i should not be using the pinion snubber?

steve

I think I changed the bushing in the shock but I can't honestly remember as I have changed things alot. As for the snuber I run one but some don't. You have to try it bouth ways to see witch one workes for you.

My computer is down again. If you got any questions call me. 785-452-1825