My wife said.. when you break them you make sure no one else is ever going to use it again..good job ! LOL that is after she cry'ed

Jamie"Grenade"Vernon has a nice ring to it.Hang in there.

I just built a 440 with Scat rods. Standard rod bolt not the ARP 2000 bolts. It ran 11.00's the first night out shifting at 6400 but when I went to check the timing the next day it had a noise coming from the bottom of the engine. When I pulled the pan I found one of the rod bolts hadn't been torqued and had backed out about 1/4". It was hitting the windage tray. The rod cap and opposite bolt where bent up. Amazingly the crank was fine and I replaced the rod and bearing and went 10.90's the next weekend.

I do believe i've seen enough engine carnage pictures for the week.

HA HA LMAO I did park next to him !

VERN DO NOT LOOK ANY FURTHER ITS NOT A ROD ITS NOT BEARINGS ITS NOT ENGINE BUILDER ITS A LOOSE CONVERTER BOLT THAT HIT THE CAM SECTION IN THE REAR OF THE BLOCK AND KABOOM-WHEN I SAW THOSE PICTURES I GOT FLASH BACKS BEEN THERE DONE THAT I FEEL YOUR PAIN

Vern,

If nothing else, it is SPECTACULAR to look at. But I agree, ouch.....

What size is the wrist pin? (1.094 or .990)? Does Eagle use the same forging for both pins and bush them differently?

Vern, is that an I-beam rod with a pressed pin? I use Eagle h-beam with 990 floating pin and my car goes thru the traps at 7200 and I have 390 runs on the engine.

Eagle h-beam 1.094 pin floating pin. Jack I do not know ?

I like that price sheet

I need a few things on that list.

New pics add'ed to the first post !

At that point I would cut my losses with that build and go for something different.

How about a small block, with a nice set of twin turbos and fuel injection???
Or you can buy my 540 off me and ill build the TTSB

Sorry to see that, I hate seeing other peoples carnage. For me, its just a chance for a new beginning. I get so side tracked that by the time I am close to finishing a project I am ready for something new any how.

i know there are tons of chinese cranks and rods in use out there. personally i'm just scared of them, the rods especially. not that premium parts can't/don't fail but i would think using a quality usa forged/billet/machined rod would be money well spent when you consider all the collateral damage that can occur when a rod fails. problem is there aren't a lot of choices for usa made rods and while the machine work that some are doing in the us should be superior you're still working with an imported blank

personally the only chinese part i have is a crank i've yet to use. the rods i have/used are BME, manley and oliver

Vern you didn't play around, that's a real mess you made there. was just looking at a friends roundy engine the other day that he did something similar. callies ultra lite crank, oliver rods the works. didn't get real far into it but looks like a bearing failed and the engine had been recently gone through. no signs of other oiling distress just a bearing that failed and he ran it till it pitched the rod