Re: Race car trailer tie-downs, what do I need?
#14420
02/18/05 08:24 PM
02/18/05 08:24 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,786 541 slobovia
A990
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,786
541 slobovia
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Well I searched the M&R site and found the page with the tie down info http://www.mrproducts.com/combotiebacks.htmGood post- I need some for a Charger I have to haul, and I'm getting tired of the lame stuff the rental place uses KG
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Re: Race car trailer tie-downs, what do I need?
#14421
02/18/05 08:36 PM
02/18/05 08:36 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,510 Manheim PA.
mopardad
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,510
Manheim PA.
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Quote:
My weakest link is the tie down rings them selves. The straps are not just to hold your car on the trailer, they are also for protecting everyone around you from your cargo.
Having someone go thru a stop sign & hitting them while pulling a car on a trailer I can tell you this, My blue staps became white wherever they went thru a hook or adjuster but were not tore, all the hooks spread open somewhat, the triangular shaped pieces that the hooks snap into were very distorted, the rings on the trailer were not affected, the ball mount on the hitch (the 3/4" thick steel) was bent up pretty bad, the car hardy moved on the trailer This happened going thru town probably not over 40MPH. I had 2 axle straps straight forward in the front & 2 rachet straps crossed in the rear.
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Re: Race car trailer tie-downs, what do I need?
#14424
02/18/05 09:50 PM
02/18/05 09:50 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,069 Down South
CaptNemo
super gas
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super gas
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,069
Down South
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Quote:
Quote:
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Dave, why do you have to trailer a street car? Just drive it to the track like I do...
>cough cough<
Well, I'm not going to drive my Duster 1,100 miles to the Mopar Nats!!! Plus, I want to trade in my show poodle status and upgrade to trailer queen.
That was meant for James... You see, there's this black thing that follows his truck and transports the red car on top of it...
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Re: Race car trailer tie-downs, what do I need?
[Re: 64hemi]
#14426
02/18/05 11:33 PM
02/18/05 11:33 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 10,384 Upstate NY
Bigcube
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 10,384
Upstate NY
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When I had the stock K-frame I got 2 small axle U-bolts (2 1/2"x 1/2" or so). I drilled 2 holes on the each side edge of the K, then put the U-bolts up through the 2 holes and used 4 nuts to lock the U-bolt in place facing down. Gave me something for the straps to hook to that was solid. Quick fix for stock K frame cars
<Edit> since I never took a pic of where I put the U-bolts, I tried to show it in this pic with the black dots *** see attached ***
Last edited by Bigcube; 02/18/05 11:58 PM.
Jim
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Re: Race car trailer tie-downs, what do I need?
#14428
02/19/05 01:46 AM
02/19/05 01:46 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,627 Ca Registered: Mar-2001
hemiallen
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,627
Ca Registered: Mar-2001
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I am still fine-tuning our setup on a 16' open trailer. I just got 2 of the trucker style D ring loops and welded them to 6" square 1/4" thk plates, then bolted them through the frame to the front corners of the trailer with grade 8's 1/2" bolts. The stock flush mounted rings seemed wimpy, and weren't far enough out to get a good angle on the straps, probably due to a short trailer and long car ( 66 charger). On the front I am using axle straps and 10k ratchet straps, but am thinking of welding a U-bolt to the bottom of the K member similar to Al on his dart.
On the back I am considering what a friend did on his top fuel car, use 2 axle straps and a chain with a chain hook, slip the chain end thru the strap eyes, thru the bed hook and hook to chain forming a loop, and use the fronts to remove the slack. I also built a removable cable winch ( to keep it out of the weather and theft deterrance- also something to do with the welder that's fun-lol) and I will also use the winch as a backup for tension on the front. I'll snap a picture tomorrow if it doesn't rain.
What do you-all think of the chain on the rear end?
Thanks
Allen
'05 Quad cab hemi truck- Flame red- magnaflow exhaust
70-440 cuda-
74-360-4v Challenger- new driver car
EX vehicles:
66 charger Drag car- 10.80 at 123 mph
57 imperial 392 Hemi
1960 Sanger V drive- mondello-built 392 hemi
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Re: Race car trailer tie-downs, what do I need?
[Re: Bigcube]
#14431
02/19/05 10:12 AM
02/19/05 10:12 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,116 Falconer, NY
KatFysh
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,116
Falconer, NY
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Quote:
When I had the stock K-frame I got 2 small axle U-bolts (2 1/2"x 1/2" or so). I drilled 2 holes on the each side edge of the K, then put the U-bolts up through the 2 holes and used 4 nuts to lock the U-bolt in place facing down. Gave me something for the straps to hook to that was solid. Quick fix for stock K frame cars
<Edit> since I never took a pic of where I put the U-bolts, I tried to show it in this pic with the black dots *** see attached ***
Quote:
I also built a removable cable winch ( to keep it out of the weather and theft deterrance- also something to do with the welder that's fun-lol) and I will also use the winch as a backup for tension on the front. I'll snap a picture tomorrow if it doesn't rain.
I like the clamp idea. seems like the easiest and cleanest appearing set up. Won't have to worry about wrapping the strap anything up front. I'll have to check mine out and hopefully do this before the motor goes back in.
I'd like to see the removable winch set up. I had also thought about doing this. I have the material set aside at work for it. I've just been waiting to make a post for it. You added it here sooner than I was ready. What size winch do you use. Do you think a 3000 lb ATV winch will be okay if it was used with a doubled up cable?
Quote:
On the back I am considering what a friend did on his top fuel car, use 2 axle straps and a chain with a chain hook, slip the chain end thru the strap eyes, thru the bed hook and hook to chain forming a loop, and use the fronts to remove the slack.
This sound very similar to what I mentioned earlier. A friend of mine does this also.. I'm going to "notch" my rear dovetail so that I can have the clearence to get closer to hook the straps and have exhaust clearence while loading/unloading. I'll have to figure where to have the rear tie-downs to the trailer after I do that.. I'm thinking the inside corners of the notch.. Is that understandable???
When you decide to quit, THAT is the moment when you would've succeeded..
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Re: Race car trailer tie-downs, what do I need?
[Re: KatFysh]
#14432
03/15/05 07:12 AM
03/15/05 07:12 AM
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Anonymous
OP
Unregistered
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Anonymous
OP
Unregistered
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I've got E-track in the floor of my trailer. The clips are rated heavy, as well as my straps. I've found if you don't put the e-clip in a certain position[in the track], they bend or worse yet, will come out of the floor. I hook the body from loops welded to the rear frame rails.[top of picture] I also have a ring welded to the k-frame. I don't personally recommend the e-clip system, as I've had 2 cars come loose while transporting. My next trailer will be back to d-rings. My shocks are upside down also.[TOP SECRET!!]Crossing the straps seems to be the problem with e-clips. It puts an angled load on them, causing the problems described above.The adjustability for position is great,but I believe it's just to many movable parts.
Last edited by mmissile; 03/15/05 07:13 AM.
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Re: Race car trailer tie-downs, what do I need?
#14433
03/15/05 09:53 AM
03/15/05 09:53 AM
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972 Romeo MI
MR_P_BODY
Master
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Master
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
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This year I am trying a new tie down system (for me), air bag under the car,the dragster guys use them, this is to stop or slow the body movement while its on the trailer, the suspension see's more wear and tear on the trailer then it does going down the track. I plan on the normal 2 straps in the front, on the chassis, crossed, then 2 on the rearend, crossed, air bag under the car at the main hoop area, then 1 more strap pulling down on the body at the rear, this one will be snug, just so the body wont move up and down to save the shocks, I have more in my shocks than the air bag
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Re: Race car trailer tie-downs, what do I need?
#14434
07/03/05 11:56 AM
07/03/05 11:56 AM
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 96,666 On The Boat, On The Lake, Wa. ...
amxautox
Still Retired. Still Posting on Moparts. A Lot.
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Still Retired. Still Posting on Moparts. A Lot.
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 96,666
On The Boat, On The Lake, Wa. ...
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btt for a new member to read.
Tom
"Everyone should believe in something; I believe I'll go fishing."
-Henry David Thoreau
Men and fish are alike. They both get into trouble when they open their mouths
author unknown
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Re: Race car trailer tie-downs, what do I need?
[Re: BENCHRACER]
#14435
07/03/05 01:54 PM
07/03/05 01:54 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,006 Yorktown VA
motorheadjohn
Ridin' Shotgun
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Ridin' Shotgun
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,006
Yorktown VA
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Quote:
I towed a car for someone once and the car had hooks welded to the frame that you could just quickly hook on to and go (instead of rapping around the axle or k-frame). I have been wanting to weld hooks of some kind to do the same to mine but someone has told me that it can bend the frame downwards from the bounce of the car going down the road. What do you think?
Bending the frame and/or doing sheet metal damage is a possibility, depending on where the attach points are.
I have a very good friend that bought a 90 Mustang LX coupe on the internet and had it shipped. It had 2 soft-ball sized dents in the quarters, one on each side, when it arrived and the shipping company tried to fake the paperwork to make them look like pre-existing damage. Hice huh? Good thing he had copies of the original shipping paperwork and could prove they altered the delivery copy.
My friend figured it was loading/unloading damage, but when I started looking at the car, I noticed they were at the exact same point each side, at the corner of where the roof pillar meets the quarter panel. I got to looking and concluded they had tied the car down using a hole at the rear bumper on the frame, and tied it down too tightly. The stress caused a KINK in the quarter at the stress point where the roof met the quarter.
Anyway, he took it to a body shop for a repair estimate for the claim against the shipper's insurance, and the body ship confirmed it was damage from impropper tie down.
On a leaf-spring car, the stress points might be different, but on that Mustang (factory 4-link?) tied at the rear of the frame, it caused problems. Just be careful and think about the way the stresses will be applied if you're going to tie down with the frame rails.
Chicks in the mirror are fatter than they appear
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Re: Race car trailer tie-downs, what do I need?
[Re: amxautox]
#14437
07/04/06 12:22 PM
07/04/06 12:22 PM
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 96,666 On The Boat, On The Lake, Wa. ...
amxautox
Still Retired. Still Posting on Moparts. A Lot.
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Still Retired. Still Posting on Moparts. A Lot.
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 96,666
On The Boat, On The Lake, Wa. ...
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same same, someone needed to read it, getting close to the end page.
Tom
"Everyone should believe in something; I believe I'll go fishing."
-Henry David Thoreau
Men and fish are alike. They both get into trouble when they open their mouths
author unknown
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