Re: B series van/motorhome engine removal
[Re: AndyF]
#1439860
05/21/13 04:09 PM
05/21/13 04:09 PM
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 28,312 Cincinnati, Ohio
Challenger 1
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 28,312
Cincinnati, Ohio
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Quote:
With an engine hoist you probably need to come out the front. But to do that, you'll need to cut away some sheet metal.
Factory recommended method is to drop it out the bottom.
It's been 30 years since I worked at a place that had dodge vans. They did all the service there and they had FSM. If I remember right I remember seeing pictures of the engine crane in the passenger door with that seat removed in the FSM? But I may be all wrong, these were 76-80 vans at the time.
Any how that's how I did it when I rebuilt a 360 in a 73 motorhome back in the 80s.
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Re: B series van/motorhome engine removal
[Re: magnum440d100]
#1439863
05/21/13 05:42 PM
05/21/13 05:42 PM
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Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 30,632 Florida STAYcation
IcorkSOAK
Financed his waterbed
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Financed his waterbed
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 30,632
Florida STAYcation
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Any JY I have ever seen would just CHOP OFF the front with a BLUEwrench .... .... but typically ... for the home-mechanic ... they come out the door .....
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Re: B series van/motorhome engine removal
[Re: john55]
#1439866
05/21/13 11:26 PM
05/21/13 11:26 PM
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Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 12,481 Chino Valley
RodStRace
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 12,481
Chino Valley
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I've done a few. I'd get a FSM to double-check, but here goes from memory: Drain all fluids and remove the cover, converter bolts, starter, braces. Remove bumper, grille, radiator, panels on either side. Remove all hoses, belts and lines. Lay aside the PS pump, remove the Alt and A/C if equipped. There is not enough room the lay the A/C aside well. pull the crank pulley. Remove the carb, dist. and anything else on the manifold.
Jack up the front end of the van and use good jack stands so that the boom of the engine hoist is level with the carb flange on the intake. This is important. You need the hoist to be fairly short and the arm must be darn near flat against the carb flange. There is just enough room for the arm to clear the front of the doghouse if it's right against the intake, so the oil pan will clear.
I have never tried pulling the pan and pump off prior to removal, because I HATE installing pans in the vehicle and figured it's easier to get it all right on the way out so it goes back the same way.
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Re: B series van/motorhome engine removal
[Re: Challenger 1]
#1439868
05/22/13 01:16 AM
05/22/13 01:16 AM
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Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 46 Detroit, USA.
MagnumGT
member
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member
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 46
Detroit, USA.
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I always put the truck up high, and put the hoist arm right down between the heads (intake off) without the hook and the chain tight to each head diagonally. You want the angle to be close to the angle of the body (whatever that is). I have even ratchet-strapped the block to the arm. What a swap: V6-OD to V8-727. I used an '89 pump module with the drain tube and hooked my fuel line to that. I can also power the pump to empty the tank! The length of a V6/OD is almost the same as a V8/727. Dipstick tubes and a shifter bracket/rod was about it. After driving it I had to re-install the computer (eeek!) to use my dash or else swap it out for the old speedo with a cable. Just rewired all of it with a chrome box, regulator and the yellow "start" wire into an old type starter relay. It's a '94 with an '87 360-4 barrel, 340 cam and old TQ ('cause I like them). The '70's B van may have the engine further back to allow it to go out the door so... I have only done '82 and up.
All Mopars ROCK!
Last edited by MagnumGT; 05/22/13 01:31 AM.
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Re: B series van/motorhome engine removal
[Re: MagnumGT]
#1439871
05/22/13 02:08 AM
05/22/13 02:08 AM
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Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 6,048 Back home in PA
BulletBob
master
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master
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 6,048
Back home in PA
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Quote:
I always put the truck up high, and put the hoist arm right down between the heads (intake off) without the hook and the chain tight to each head diagonally. You want the angle to be close to the angle of the body (whatever that is). I have even ratchet-strapped the block to the arm. What a swap: V6-OD to V8-727. I used an '89 pump module with the drain tube and hooked my fuel line to that. I can also power the pump to empty the tank! The length of a V6/OD is almost the same as a V8/727. Dipstick tubes and a shifter bracket/rod was about it. After driving it I had to re-install the computer (eeek!) to use my dash or else swap it out for the old speedo with a cable. Just rewired all of it with a chrome box, regulator and the yellow "start" wire into an old type starter relay. It's a '94 with an '87 360-4 barrel, 340 cam and old TQ ('cause I like them). The '70's B van may have the engine further back to allow it to go out the door so... I have only done '82 and up.
All Mopars ROCK!
All B series vans 71-up are done this way You can only go out the door with a shortblock unless you destroy the dash
A series was side door only
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Re: B series van/motorhome engine removal
[Re: BulletBob]
#1439875
05/22/13 11:55 AM
05/22/13 11:55 AM
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Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,169 Cruising!
QuickDodge
super stock
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super stock
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,169
Cruising!
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I've only pulled one van engine. It was a 1970's van with a 360 engine. That van was rusted badly and headed to the scrap yard. I left the intake on it and hooked it up as tight as I could to the lift. It would not come out! So I took a sledge hammer and saw zaw and started making the front opening larger. That van had some strong metal in it! Beating and cutting that van up enough to get that engine out was a real hassle!
If I was to EVER do another engine swap in a van, I'd pull the intake and if necessary the heads or the oil pan. It would be a LOT easier to make the engine smaller than to make the grill opening larger!
Last edited by QuickDodge; 05/22/13 11:56 AM.
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Re: B series van/motorhome engine removal
[Re: MagnumGT]
#1439877
05/22/13 02:31 PM
05/22/13 02:31 PM
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Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,944 woodcrest, CA
magnum440d100
OP
top fuel
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OP
top fuel
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,944
woodcrest, CA
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Quote:
Well I just viewed this thread and my photos are only visible when I am logged in so, without the picture of my block hanging in front of the van I guess I can't really prove it, right?
Thanks for the pic
The water pump has to come off anyway, same with the intake. I have a 4bbl to replace the 2 bbl. I do have an extra HV oil pump which could justify oil pan removal
Ok. I guess enough talkin, more doin. Learn by trial and error. I'm going to go through the front. Wish me luck guys
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