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Re: Flat tappet and valve spring pressures. [Re: atoetly] #14263
02/11/05 10:09 PM
02/11/05 10:09 PM
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,417
Chicago, IL
blownEFI Offline
pro stock
blownEFI  Offline
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Posts: 1,417
Chicago, IL
Quote:

If your part of the in crowd (I'm not) you will hear run a roller. But not from me. I'm not into the cookie cutter engine crowd. Roller lifters belong in a pratt&whitney 1340 radial engine. This had outa get some responses right b1ken? Lol



I think I'd rather have a Pratt & Whitney R-4360 Wasp Major. With 5.75" bores and a 6.0" stroke times 28 cylinders for a total displacement of 4,363 c.i. and producing 3,000 horsepower at only 2,700 rpm. Now that was one bad engine.


"These go to eleven", Nigel Tufnel
Re: Flat tappet and valve spring pressures. [Re: blownEFI] #14264
02/11/05 11:32 PM
02/11/05 11:32 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,875
communist bloc of new jersey
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jamesc Offline
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communist bloc of new jersey
hmmm...can't say that i can add much the 275/275-585/585 cam in the sig car isn't real rowdy though it does have some duration. it was installed with whatever springs comp recommends for it (i think) and broken in with full pressure. i believe these are in the 140/360ish area. when first raced i had one exhaust rocker that needed adjustment a number of times and i said one more time and i'm parking it but it settled down and the valve train has been holding lash better than i ever expected. i had checked the lift with a dial indicator and it looked ok. one point to mention though i have no experience (fortunately) it that i would think if the lobe/lifter starts to fail it isn't gonna take long to finish off.

Re: Flat tappet and valve spring pressures. [Re: blownEFI] #14265
02/12/05 06:22 PM
02/12/05 06:22 PM
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,226
Peoples republic of clackamas ...
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atoetly Offline
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Peoples republic of clackamas ...

I think I'd rather have a Pratt & Whitney R-4360 Wasp Major. With 5.75" bores and a 6.0" stroke times 28 cylinders for a total displacement of 4,363 c.i. and producing 3,000 horsepower at only 2,700 rpm. Now that was one bad engine.



Yes but at the cost of 20 dollars a piece minimum for spark plugs and just walking past a radial engine you will look like a grease rag. Not to mention those old engines are maintence hogs (But they do have roller lifters and a floating cam ring) I really think I will just stay with my flat tappet 440.

Re: Flat tappet and valve spring pressures. [Re: atoetly] #14266
02/25/05 01:10 PM
02/25/05 01:10 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,045
Shelby Twp. Mi
HardcoreB Offline OP
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Would like to put this one to bed so, does anyone have anything else to add? All responses are appreciated.

Re: Flat tappet and valve spring pressures. [Re: HardcoreB] #14267
02/25/05 01:13 PM
02/25/05 01:13 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,045
Shelby Twp. Mi
HardcoreB Offline OP
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HardcoreB  Offline OP
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Quote:

I am curious to know if any of the applications that require pressures beyond 380 lbs. over the nose are using steel retainers and or mufflers (backpressure). What dia. pushrods and wall thickness in those applications? Are the applications exceeding 380 lbs. (nose) with success using synthetic oil after the break-in period?




Does anyone want to touch on these?

Re: Flat tappet and valve spring pressures. [Re: HardcoreB] #14268
02/25/05 01:17 PM
02/25/05 01:17 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 15,439
Val-haul-ass... eventually
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BradH Offline
Taking time off to work on my car
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Val-haul-ass... eventually
Quote:

Quote:

I am curious to know if any of the applications that require pressures beyond 380 lbs. over the nose are using steel retainers and or mufflers (backpressure). What dia. pushrods and wall thickness in those applications? Are the applications exceeding 380 lbs. (nose) with success using synthetic oil after the break-in period?




Does anyone want to touch on these?




Steel retainers are OK; I happen to run ti on the intakes and steel on the exhaust to help bring the intake valve assembly weight down much closer to the exhaust valve assembly weight.

Pushrod wall thickness of at least .065" w/ a 3/8" tube... .080" walls probably better, though.

Synthetic oil OK for me, but I like the high-end Redline stuff, not Mobil 1. Also, as I may have mentioned previously, I do run Schubeck lifters.

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