Re: 34 Dodge Update
[Re: moparx]
#1413373
04/02/13 11:10 PM
04/02/13 11:10 PM
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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,039 Redwood City Ca.
B1arno
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Quote:
arno, my humpback has major "divots" under the leadwork where the roof panels meet the a pillars, and where the roof and b pillars meet. this is a very common thing found under the lead joints. i can see similar "workmanship" in the rear by the door opening and 1/4 panel joints, but the lead is still in the joints on the outside, but cracked pretty good. i'm sure there will be a mess as i expect under the lead. you will be glad you took the time to strip and repair properly in the long run.
Thanks Moparx. It just seems odd that assembling all new parts freshly stamped that there would be this kind of damage, but apparently it happened. Oh well, fix it and move on. With a little luck and a lot of time, and if life doesn't get in the way, I might have it on the road by years end.
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Re: 34 Dodge Update
[Re: B1arno]
#1413374
04/10/13 10:44 PM
04/10/13 10:44 PM
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Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 2,675 Mt. Eden Ky.
Hemi Allstate
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Quote:
Quote:
arno, my humpback has major "divots" under the leadwork where the roof panels meet the a pillars, and where the roof and b pillars meet. this is a very common thing found under the lead joints. i can see similar "workmanship" in the rear by the door opening and 1/4 panel joints, but the lead is still in the joints on the outside, but cracked pretty good. i'm sure there will be a mess as i expect under the lead. you will be glad you took the time to strip and repair properly in the long run.
Thanks Moparx. It just seems odd that assembling all new parts freshly stamped that there would be this kind of damage, but apparently it happened. Oh well, fix it and move on. With a little luck and a lot of time, and if life doesn't get in the way, I might have it on the road by years end.
Good job Arno, It's going to be an awesome coupe! Keep up the good work. Mark
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Re: 34 Dodge Update
[Re: moparx]
#1413379
06/30/13 11:12 PM
06/30/13 11:12 PM
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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,039 Redwood City Ca.
B1arno
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Quote:
good deal arno ! was your roof skin just laying on top of the roof with the padded top channel under it ? nice job on the 1/4 patch !
Yeah, it was just laid on top and tack welded in position. It looks like they used a roof section out of a minivan or suv with stiffening ribs in it so there was no bracing underneath to hold it up. It looked a bit funny because pretty much every panel on the car is rounded and the roof ended up flat across the top.
Did you ever get the mig welder light? If so, does it help?
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Re: 34 Dodge Update
[Re: B1arno]
#1413381
07/01/13 09:23 PM
07/01/13 09:23 PM
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 19,320 north of coder
moparx
"Butt Crack Bob"
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"Butt Crack Bob"
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north of coder
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Quote:
Did you ever get the mig welder light? If so, does it help?
i rigged up a cheapo led pocket flashlite to try out the idea first. i just tried a couple of tacks and the jury is still out. i have a project i hope to do this coming weekend which will require some extra light. if it helps, i'll let you know !
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Re: 34 Dodge Update
[Re: B1arno]
#1413387
07/05/13 02:12 AM
07/05/13 02:12 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,534 Freeport IL USA
poorboy
I Live Here
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I Live Here
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Quote:
It had a fabric covered top originally over a wood framework. I'm not sure why they were done this way. My guess is cost savings in production. Maybe someone else can enlighten us?
Arno
I don't think they had the capacity to stamp a full metal roof until 1935. Mopar was about the first to have a full metal roof in 35, everything before that had a cloth insert unless it was just tin tacked with nails over a wood frame. Gene
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Re: 34 Dodge Update
[Re: moparx]
#1413389
07/06/13 12:24 AM
07/06/13 12:24 AM
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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,039 Redwood City Ca.
B1arno
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Quote:
Quote:
It had a fabric covered top originally over a wood framework. I'm not sure why they were done this way. My guess is cost savings in production. Maybe someone else can enlighten us?
Arno
the reason this was done this way was because there wasn't a press or die big enough to stamp a top section in one piece. all manufacturers did this untill 36 or 37. in the early days it was only possible to stamp front, rear, and rt/lft sides then weld together to form the top. the welds were often very poor as the joints weren't precise by any means. they were then leaded over to fill the seams. the resulting hole was then filled with a wooden framework covered with "chicken" wire and a fabric covering.[my humpback has the luxury of having 2 holes in the roof made this way.] i read this somewhere a million years ago in a book about henry ford....... gene, you are right. mopar was the first to make a solid top, but in 35 the sedans still had a roof insert, at least the early production ones had them. not sure about 36, but all had a "one piece" top in 37.
I knew there would be people on here that could answer that. Thanks guys!
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Re: 34 Dodge Update
[Re: 5wndwcpe]
#1413396
04/13/14 01:01 AM
04/13/14 01:01 AM
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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,039 Redwood City Ca.
B1arno
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Quote:
The replacement rear panel welded in place. I have to recreate the ends where it transitions into the rear quarters.
Hey Arno,
Where did you get the rear splash pan ? The last time I worked on mine, nobody was making Mopar stuff. We had to adapt Ford pieces or make them from scratch.
I got all my patch panels from Floyds Body Shop. http://rileyreproductions.com/patchpanels.html
Their stuff is very nice/accurate and reasonably priced as far as I'm concerned. I'm looking at Ford repro drip mouldings for mine.
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Re: 34 Dodge Update
[Re: moparx]
#1413398
04/15/14 12:25 AM
04/15/14 12:25 AM
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Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 2,675 Mt. Eden Ky.
Hemi Allstate
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master
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Mt. Eden Ky.
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Quote:
you are doing good arno ! keep up the good work !
It's GREAT to see this progress. Keep up the good work Arno!
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Re: 34 Dodge Update
[Re: Hemi Allstate]
#1413399
04/15/14 05:50 AM
04/15/14 05:50 AM
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Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,757 levittown pa
fstfish66
top fuel
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top fuel
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levittown pa
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i think we all have had our projects pushed back at one time or another,,,,glad your back on it
1966 barracuda prostreeter super charged 340(SOLD) 1940 dodge coupe 241 hemi street rod 2014 ram express hemi 4x4 dailey driver 2015 cherokee 2013 R/T classic
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Re: 34 Dodge Update
[Re: B1arno]
#1413405
04/19/14 10:39 PM
04/19/14 10:39 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 16,376
dogdays
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Re: 34 Dodge Update
[Re: dogdays]
#1413407
04/20/14 07:15 PM
04/20/14 07:15 PM
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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,039 Redwood City Ca.
B1arno
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Quote:
34 ford patch panels?
R.
This sounded like a good idea so I went online looking at Ford 32,33,and 34 lower door patch panels. They have obvious differences in their shape but I will keep them in mind. I do have access to an english wheel so that will probably be what I try first. Not sure how I will be able to duplicate the pinch weld along the bottom and have a nice straight line.
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Re: 34 Dodge Update
[Re: Mopar Ron]
#1413410
04/21/14 10:24 PM
04/21/14 10:24 PM
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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,039 Redwood City Ca.
B1arno
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Quote:
arno check here
when I do door bottoms I just take apiece if metal and have a bend made at the bottom as far as the break will go and then I fit it to the bottom and hammer and dolly it together and on the curve area I put a piece of metal and then weld the door edge and grind it smooth...
http://www.srpmstreetrods.com/srpm/1933-...0b816573-p.html
full door is a bit pricy http://www.srpmstreetrods.com/srpm/1933-...0e0b6581-p.html
Hi Ron, I have seen their stuff but it looked like they mostly did the trucks. I called them today and they said the difference is in the lenght of the doors. Coupe doors are longer. They said that they could make up some longer if I give them the measurement. I didn't realize that the bottom of the door is straight except the very front so getting a nice line on the bottom should not be a big deal as you suggested. Knowing that, it looks like it may not be hard to make up the door repair panels. Thanks!
Also, anyone have ideas on drip rails? Mine had been removed and the slight indentations left where they had been were filled with bondo. I've looked at repop drip rails for Fords. They are exspensive and I'm sure I will have to modify them if I can make them work at all. I may just smooth that area but that leaves me with the body details just dead ending above the doors. I just can't see that looking right. Ideas?
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