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Here is advice you don't want to here. Put the motor back to stock as much as you can. A 4.25 crank and rods is dumb for any 90% street driven motor. The cam you can put in a nice comp high energy cam around .510 to .530 and have a nice torque motor that will burn the tires up on the street. Or you can do what these guys want and have a gas drinking ill idleing /smelly street car that will need to be worked on every day.

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This does seem a bit odd to me also...............Been beating on small and big blocks for years ALL of which see lots of street and a few passes here and there and my latest 470 is no different and VERY streetable AND depedable w/only valve adjustements every few months. I actually said to pick a medium cam by my standards but the sky`s the limit and your desires and budget also play a big role. Lots of different ways to go and me, well I go as close to all out as I can for the combo and my n/a street car is crazy fun on the street and surprises many at the track. You`ll figure it out................

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I reread his post and he preaty much wants to spend the money for a stroker kit.I would not put the 4.25 crank in because you really don't need that big and extra cost of machining the block and mabe a external oil pump. Cam is wrong and the intake is a bad choice and the stealth heads are ok but spend the money for ported because anything less is a waste plus add more money for valve springs and retainers to match the cam.You will need new push rods. The Isky iron rockers are ok but there is better choices in rollers. Any thing bigger than 1 7/8 headers you will have a fitment problem unless they are very exspensive headers.Stock manifold would be a waste because you have way to many cubes to put all the exhuast out stock manifolds. Stock oil pan is OK because you will never spin this thing so long that it will suck all the oil out. I race mine weekly and have never lost oil pressure. You said budgit it better be a good size one. Once you go down the road of aftermarket it gets exspensive.

Dom your car is going more and more to a light weight race car that is kind of streetable.My junk weighs 3,250 race weight and has all of 446 cubes with junk first run Stealth heads and a .625 roller cam and KB junk pistons and has well over 300 runs and has been 10.50s set on kill.Why do you and all the other guy think you need 500 plus cubes to go fast? I just need to add Nitrous add I would give you a tough race.
What ever happened to rebuilding a 440 and adding good heads and cam? Seams to me everyone is getting penis envy and has to go bigger than the other guy.
You have a great car but answer me this how many miles did you put on it last year and how many trips to the track did you make?

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I used to think sorta the same thing as I have never built a stroker until the eng in my car now. And I would think...................why a stroker as I can build a 440 to go fast ? But then you can also ask yourself if you stay in that state of mind.......why pay for anything that will make it go faster ? Same with the guys with power adders as we can say...................why add a supercharger to go fast ? Because it makes sense what everway you decide to go faster. Thats why since I built a complete new eng and was going to buy a crank , rods and pistons then since it does not cost much more at all why not add the cubes and the torque ! Yea alot of us then say.................yea but anybody can go fast with a stroker. But thats the key.......go faster what ever way we like. Most like me try to get the best bang for the buck and a stroker made alot of sense for me since my cars weighs over 3700 lbs and I wanted to run 10's on pump with a full exh. It was a no brainer for me. And sure I would feel cooler if I could say I was going 10's with just a 440 or smaller eng. Thats just normal ego. Thats why when I see a blown car run fast I will think.........well it should go that fast but that really depends. I just look at any car weather its N/A or has a power adder and try to determine how it runs for the full combo. I like N/A and I like my eng looking like a 426 wedge so the easy simple extra power for me was a simple stroker. I also like the fact that it makes more torque then the same eng at 440 cubes would and I dont have to run it as hard as a smaller cube eng. Myself I feel like if I am going in there to build the eng and its not much more to add some stroke to it then I think I will to any eng I build from now on unless its a class where you cant stroke it. I dont care how cool someone might think it is if I was running 10's and only had 426 cubes as I dont worry about being cool anymore as I am too old for that. Ron

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Everyone has a different idea , and tolerance , as to what they consider streetable .

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Yep, and all three of me thinks mine is and that`s all that matters..............let`s go for a ride.

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Here is advice you don't want to here. Put the motor back to stock as much as you can. A 4.25 crank and rods is dumb for any 90% street driven motor. The cam you can put in a nice comp high energy cam around .510 to .530 and have a nice torque motor that will burn the tires up on the street. Or you can do what these guys want and have a gas drinking ill idleing /smelly street car that will need to be worked on every day.

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This does seem a bit odd to me also...............Been beating on small and big blocks for years ALL of which see lots of street and a few passes here and there and my latest 470 is no different and VERY streetable AND depedable w/only valve adjustements every few months. I actually said to pick a medium cam by my standards but the sky`s the limit and your desires and budget also play a big role. Lots of different ways to go and me, well I go as close to all out as I can for the combo and my n/a street car is crazy fun on the street and surprises many at the track. You`ll figure it out................

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I reread his post and he preaty much wants to spend the money for a stroker kit.I would not put the 4.25 crank in because you really don't need that big and extra cost of machining the block and mabe a external oil pump. Cam is wrong and the intake is a bad choice and the stealth heads are ok but spend the money for ported because anything less is a waste plus add more money for valve springs and retainers to match the cam.You will need new push rods. The Isky iron rockers are ok but there is better choices in rollers. Any thing bigger than 1 7/8 headers you will have a fitment problem unless they are very exspensive headers.Stock manifold would be a waste because you have way to many cubes to put all the exhuast out stock manifolds. Stock oil pan is OK because you will never spin this thing so long that it will suck all the oil out. I race mine weekly and have never lost oil pressure. You said budgit it better be a good size one. Once you go down the road of aftermarket it gets exspensive.

Dom your car is going more and more to a light weight race car that is kind of streetable.My junk weighs 3,250 race weight and has all of 446 cubes with junk first run Stealth heads and a .625 roller cam and KB junk pistons and has well over 300 runs and has been 10.50s set on kill.Why do you and all the other guy think you need 500 plus cubes to go fast? I just need to add Nitrous add I would give you a tough race.
What ever happened to rebuilding a 440 and adding good heads and cam? Seams to me everyone is getting penis envy and has to go bigger than the other guy.
You have a great car but answer me this how many miles did you put on it last year and how many trips to the track did you make?

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Here is advice you don't want to here. Put the motor back to stock as much as you can. A 4.25 crank and rods is dumb for any 90% street driven motor. The cam you can put in a nice comp high energy cam around .510 to .530 and have a nice torque motor that will burn the tires up on the street. Or you can do what these guys want and have a gas drinking ill idleing /smelly street car that will need to be worked on every day.

---

This does seem a bit odd to me also...............Been beating on small and big blocks for years ALL of which see lots of street and a few passes here and there and my latest 470 is no different and VERY streetable AND depedable w/only valve adjustements every few months. I actually said to pick a medium cam by my standards but the sky`s the limit and your desires and budget also play a big role. Lots of different ways to go and me, well I go as close to all out as I can for the combo and my n/a street car is crazy fun on the street and surprises many at the track. You`ll figure it out................

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I reread his post and he preaty much wants to spend the money for a stroker kit.I would not put the 4.25 crank in because you really don't need that big and extra cost of machining the block and mabe a external oil pump. Cam is wrong and the intake is a bad choice and the stealth heads are ok but spend the money for ported because anything less is a waste plus add more money for valve springs and retainers to match the cam.You will need new push rods. The Isky iron rockers are ok but there is better choices in rollers. Any thing bigger than 1 7/8 headers you will have a fitment problem unless they are very exspensive headers.Stock manifold would be a waste because you have way to many cubes to put all the exhuast out stock manifolds. Stock oil pan is OK because you will never spin this thing so long that it will suck all the oil out. I race mine weekly and have never lost oil pressure. You said budgit it better be a good size one. Once you go down the road of aftermarket it gets exspensive.

Dom your car is going more and more to a light weight race car that is kind of streetable.My junk weighs 3,250 race weight and has all of 446 cubes with junk first run Stealth heads and a .625 roller cam and KB junk pistons and has well over 300 runs and has been 10.50s set on kill.Why do you and all the other guy think you need 500 plus cubes to go fast? I just need to add Nitrous add I would give you a tough race.
What ever happened to rebuilding a 440 and adding good heads and cam? Seams to me everyone is getting penis envy and has to go bigger than the other guy.
You have a great car but answer me this how many miles did you put on it last year and how many trips to the track did you make?

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As far as the stroker.....by the time I have my stock steel crank checked out, stock rods prepped, new pistons, rings etc., balancing....I will be at $1,000 plus...so why not spend a little extra and get a NEW crank, NEW rods, NEW Pistons, etc, balanced, and 60+ more cubes.....maybe I can sell my steel crank, rods, .030 pistons for a few hundred....?

My understanding is the 4.25, 2.20 journal combo will fit in a stock block no problem....

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And runs like this!

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And runs like this!

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And runs like this!

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Cool, what times does it run at the track?

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Unfortunately, it never made it to the track. The customer sold the car to a prominent collector in England for a pile of money. It wasnt quite as radical as the motor I built for either of Ed Cook's FAST A12's . Both cars went into the 10.70's/130 MPH through the stock manifolds and the G60-15 Bias ply tires. To be fair, while neither of Cook's engines are "streetable", Pete's was, but isnt pump gas friendly.

Id say Pete's Bee would have run deep into the low elevens. Maybe an 11.00. That poor Superbee is probably collecting dust in that guys museum now..


MB

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Dont listen to the "stock stroke" guys...Your logic IS correct. We are living in the Golden Ages of stroker motors. In the "old" days we had to get by with welded up stock crap or super expensive custom stuff. Take advantege of it. Heck, Ive built strokers for super high end restos even. Why not have some fun?

The 4.25 is a drop in deal in a 440 with only minor clearancing. 2.200 Rod big end.

Its cool when your motor looks like this

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Dont listen to the "stock stroke" guys...Your logic IS correct. We are living in the Golden Ages of stroker motors. In the "old" days we had to get by with welded up stock crap or super expensive custom stuff. Take advantege of it. Heck, Ive built strokers for super high end restos even. Why not have some fun?

The 4.25 is a drop in deal in a 440 with only minor clearancing. 2.200 Rod big end.

Its cool when your motor looks like this

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Thank You, that's what I'm looking for......stock look...Pump Gas......maybe headers...I have 1 7/8 hookers and manifolds....On the street, would the diffeence between manifolds and headers be hugely noticeable ?

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And runs like this!

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Cool, what times does it run at the track?

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Unfortunately, it never made it to the track. The customer sold the car to a prominent collector in England for a pile of money. It wasnt quite as radical as the motor I built for either of Ed Cook's FAST A12's . Both cars went into the 10.70's/130 MPH through the stock manifolds and the G60-15 Bias ply tires. To be fair, while neither of Cook's engines are "streetable", Pete's was, but isnt pump gas friendly.

Id say Pete's Bee would have run deep into the low elevens. Maybe an 11.00. That poor Superbee is probably collecting dust in that guys museum now..


MB

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And runs like this!

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Cool, what times does it run at the track?

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Unfortunately, it never made it to the track. The customer sold the car to a prominent collector in England for a pile of money. It wasnt quite as radical as the motor I built for either of Ed Cook's FAST A12's . Both cars went into the 10.70's/130 MPH through the stock manifolds and the G60-15 Bias ply tires. To be fair, while neither of Cook's engines are "streetable", Pete's was, but isnt pump gas friendly.

Id say Pete's Bee would have run deep into the low elevens. Maybe an 11.00. That poor Superbee is probably collecting dust in that guys museum now..


MB

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Is that with Iron Heads ? Comparable to unported stealths ?

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Dont listen to the "stock stroke" guys...Your logic IS correct. We are living in the Golden Ages of stroker motors. In the "old" days we had to get by with welded up stock crap or super expensive custom stuff. Take advantege of it. Heck, Ive built strokers for super high end restos even. Why not have some fun?

The 4.25 is a drop in deal in a 440 with only minor clearancing. 2.200 Rod big end.

Its cool when your motor looks like this

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Thank You, that's what I'm looking for......stock look...Pump Gas......maybe headers...I have 1 7/8 hookers and manifolds....On the street, would the diffeence between manifolds and headers be hugely noticeable ?

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Like I said earlier it would see about 20hp drop on
the street.. no big deal since your rpm's are lower

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Everyone has a different idea , and tolerance , as to what they consider streetable .

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Everyone has a different idea , and tolerance , as to what they consider streetable .

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Yep, and all three of me thinks mine is and that`s all that matters TO ME .............. let`s go for a ride.

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Everyone has a different idea , and tolerance , as to what they consider streetable .

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Yep, and all three of me thinks mine is and that`s all that matters TO ME .............. let`s go for a ride.

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fixed

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Too funny.....................Soon baby, soon...........