I realize that similar topics have been posted in the past, but rather than piggy-back on an older post, I thought it might be better to start a fresh one. I have searched this sight and others for info, and have read everything I could find. I am "restoring/updating" the 1970 Rallye gauge cluster that the prior owner installed back in 2003. I successfully removed everything including the switch panel from the dash (thanks to the advice/knowledge I gained from this site). I also disassembled everything (see attached photos of individual components). The cluster and instruments/gauges are in excellent condition. However, the clock hasn't worked since I've owned the car (6.5 years; and probably has not worked for long before that); and the prior owner had installed an Auto-Meter Tach (looked like s**t). Several years ago, I bought: a restored original 8K Rallye Tach (can't remember from who); a solid state quartz movement for the clock; new light tubes and lenses; new woodgrain faceplates. I'd like to do as much as I can myself to save on cost. I know the Tach will need to be updated/converted to solid state in order to work with my MSD style ignition box; I'll also need a solid state voltage limiter; I want to have the Ammeter converted to a Volt Meter; and the fuel, temp and oil gauges should be calibrated. All orange needles need to be repainted due to fading (except for the Tach which is fully restored). Fortunately for me, I live 20 minutes from Redline Gauge Works. I visited them last week and showed them high res photos (on my laptop) of my individual components, and we discussed what they could do, and for what price.

Following is my "take-away" from that visit.

What I will do:

(1) Install the new woodgrain faceplate to the gauge/instrument cluster plastic bezel. Redline doesn't really do that (but they did do it once??); and when they build new Rallye clusters for customers, they buy the bezels with the faceplates already installed. *** Any recommendations on this installation will be greatly appreciated *** I read another post where someone described bending the faceplate around a 3/4" pipe. http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=44460.0 Is this really the best way?
(2) "Restore" the switch cluster. Basically, clean it up, repaint the switch knobs and lever, and install the new woodgrain faceplate. *** Any recommendations on this installation ***; as well as correct paint for the headlight toggle switch lever, wiper switch knob, and dimmer switch knob will be greatly appreciated.

What Redline will do: (I think all service and parts come with a 2 year warranty)

*** All needles will be repainted (except Tach, as it is a fully restored instrument)

(1) Speedometer "repair" = $180. This is a recommendation from Redline. I explained to them that the speedo looks like it's brand new. They said it's best to take it apart and check and re-lube everything. I don't know that a full price "repair" is in order. Thoughts??

(2) Tach Conversion to solid state = $200. I have no questions here. They don't use RTE or PDD boards, or MSD adapters. They have their own conversion approach. I'd rather have it done by professionals, rather than trying to do it myself. I have read where others have done this fairly easily using the above mentioned conversion options, but I feel it's best to leave this to those who have done it for years.

(3) Solid State Voltage Limiter = $43. I have no questions here.

(4) Calibrate: Fuel, Oil, Temp Gauges = $40 (1/2 hour labor). I have no questions here.

(5) Quartz Clock Conversion = $80 (1 hour labor). I have no questions here. They will use my part (same ones they use), and just charge me labor for install.

(6) Amp to Volt Meter Conversion = $160. I have no questions here. This should be done considering the power hungry non-stock add-ons (i.e. audio system, etc.). Besides, it's just simply a safer alternative.

(7) Assembly and Detail = $80 (1 hour labor). I have no questions here. This includes polishing the clear plastic gauge/instrument cluster lens.

Total Redline cost = $783.00

*** I am also looking for help/info on installing the new indicator lenses (left, right, brake).

*** Any feedback about any aspect of this project is greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Does anyone have any feedback on ANY aspect of my post? Thanks.

Wanna sure-fire way to get some replies?

Add a line or two asking where to get a repro fender tag because you lost yours and don't have a build sheet...

I don't think those light tubes will work ,they all look like they have the same spacing for the lens ,I had to use two of my old tubes and one new one
fun project!!

I used Performance Car Graphics for my entire cluster, including restoring a radio delete plate. couldn't be happier!

From my "chair" you look like you are doing everything correct
Something I REALLY need to do to my '71 Challenger R/T ......
Just need to find an extra $783 .....

I did my cluster myself. I took the speedometer to a local speedo shop for rebuild. The trip odometer would jam and all the digits would lock together and spin in unison.
I got it back in a clear plastic bag. After they worked on it, there was metal debris in the head that really screwed it up. And the digits on the trip odometer were still messed up. I am sure that Redline will do a better job for you. Lubrication is critical in all parts of the odometer but especially the mileage indicator and the trip odometer.
I redid mine by buying a used speedometer off ebay. I used the newer head and the trip assembly but my odometer so it was still semi accurate. Everything was cleaned electrosonically and then used lubriplate white grease on all moving part surfaces.
The needle was broken since the day I owned it. It was in the bezel still. I put a small copper wire in the channel on the pointer and super glued it to the dial hub. Painted it with Testors Coast Guard orange and put it all together. The repair is undetectable.
I did replace one light tube as was heat distorted years ago.
I did put RT Engineering's Quartz clock and electronic voltage limiter in as well.
Craig

Years ago there were instructions on how to convert your standard voltage regulator to electronic here and in Mopar Action. You basically gutted the old regulator and installed a rectifier (I think) from Radio Shack. I did a bunch of them and still have one in my car that's been working for almost 20 years. Fun easy little project that would save you $43.

Wanted to share a progress report on my instrument/gauge cluster. Got it back from Redline on Friday. The work they did is superb. It took about one week. They did everything that I listed in my initial post. I ended up having to buy a housing from them because the previous owner had enlarged the Tach hole (for Autometer Tach), and the original tach would't work in the enlarged hole. They had some extras, and the cost was VERY reasonable. They bead blast the housings and the backside of the instruments to look new. When I picked up the finished cluster, Shannon (owner) performed a standard bench test for me on all the instruments/gauges. I asked him to do this since it will be several months before I'm ready to install the cluster, and I wanted to see that everything was working correctly (BTW - their work is warrantied for 2 years). He was more than willing to do this for me, and everything performed perfectly. I have a couple of questions that I included with the last two photos. Any/all help is much appreciated.















My original housing with enlarged Tach hole. I didn't even notice this when I took the Autometer Tach out.



I do have a couple of questions regarding the plastic front bezel. Is it normal for the inside of the 4 holes (for the instruments/gauges) to be textured (see photo)?



Also, does anyone know if the thin circular foam seals that go in the indicator lens/light tube holes (in the back) are available (see photo)? If not, what have others done when these are missing? Thanks.

The brake /left and right lens do not go on the tubes.
They go on the black housing and then the plastic is lightly melted around the lens keeping them in place.
That is why the light tubes are sold all the same.
The texture inside the black housing is correct.
IMO and I repeat IMO. The gauge metal housing was bead blasted beyond requirement. It almost looks painted grey.
Too much of the metal surface finish was removed and thus you lost the original look
of the metal that was once poured. In one of your pictures , why is your OIL gauge already showing a reading?
The 2 rubber vibration grommets on the speedo should have been replaced as one already looks split.
The small round foam seals are available for the black plastic housing
light tube area.Contact Mr.Heaterbox 613-532-2587

Jules

Thank you very much for the feedback Jules. I do agree with everything you said. See comments below in Bold.

Quote:

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The brake/left and right lens do not go on the tubes.
They go on the black housing and then the plastic is lightly melted around the lens keeping them in place.
That is why the light tubes are sold all the same.

Yes, I noticed when I disassembled the cluster, that the indicator lenses were actually secured in the holes on the backside of the black plastic housing. The thin foam-like seals were there, but they were deteriorated, so I removed them. I had bought a set of new light tubes, and another member pointed out that they were all the same. I looked at my originals, and noticed they were not. I noticed that the lenses have notches in different positions/patterns to match their respective light tubes.



I figured, if I place the lenses in the holes of the black housing, I probably wouldn't get the notches to match up with the "tabs" in the light tubes. So, I decided to just put them into the light tubes, where I could accurately align the lens notches with the tabs in the tubes. I realize this was not how it was done originally. BTW - I ended up using 2 of my original tubes, and 1 new tube (see my post above from March 11th regarding my lenses and light tubes).

The texture inside the black housing is correct.

Thank you. I guess I just need to figure out the best way to get them "black" again. Any suggestion?

IMO and I repeat IMO. The gauge metal housing was bead blasted beyond requirement. It almost looks painted grey.
Too much of the metal surface finish was removed and thus you lost the original look
of the metal that was once poured.

I see your point, and respect your opinion. The photos may not do justice to Redline's work. I assure that in person, the housing does not look painted, although likely more pristine than how they were originally.

In one of your pictures , why is your OIL gauge already showing a reading?

That picture was taken by Redline. I believe at the time (before I picked up the cluster) they were in the process of bench testing the gauges. They were replying to a post on Cuda-Challenger regarding Amp to Volt meter conversions.

http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=67781.msg916382#msg916382

You can see in one of the other photos that I took, the gauge is not showing a reading.

The 2 rubber vibration grommets on the speedo should have been replaced as one already looks split.

I agree. Do you know where I can get these? They are dried-out/cracked, and I'd like to replace them.

The small round foam seals are available for the black plastic housing
light tube area. Contact Mr.Heaterbox 613-532-2587

I did buy a "cluster seal kit", and installed the new foam ring seals that go on the front-side of the the black plastic housing (the ones that seal the "back-side" of the light tubes to the housing). I believe these may be the same as what is available from Mr. Heaterbox. Do you know if his are the same?



Jules

---

Yes they are but I believe they include the foam seals for the black housing also.
Find yourself a small rubber grommet with the same i.d. as the screws that hold the speedo.
Split it in half with an exacto and voila you have 2 rubber isolators.
All is else is cool.
Tx
Jules

Latest update. This is the finished Rallye switch panel. New woodgrain faceplate that I bent and attached myself (came up with a great/simple method for matching the exact bend). Restored panel dimmer and 3-Speed wiper-washer switch, original head light switch. Knobs and lever cleaned up well. Last thing to do is the instrument/gauge cluster housing/bezel/faceplate. Thanks to all for the feedback.

It looks like this is incorrectly wired (6th image down).

I don't believe there should be the black lead from the alternator Ammeter post to the housing (tach mounting post/nut).
This would be a direct short from hot ammeter to chassis ground.

The Black lead to the Ammeter is battery supply line.
The Red is the load.
I am trying to wire my (4) leads going to the ammeter.

Why is the amp gauge at max discharge ? it should be centered at rest (no currant flow).

Possibly Ammeter converted to Voltmeter? Who found this 2.5 yr old post?