What casting/stampings should there be on block,heads,727 trans,carbs.. to be correct date coded in a 1971 Cuda vert built Feb -71?

Thanks
Karl

That's a pretty big question to answer with so little info. Karl. Are you trying to find said parts or verify what you have is correct?

Scott, I want to find out what I really need to convert my BS27H1 Cuda ragtop to a Hemicuda, The car is not matching numbers and I will keep all the 340 parts in the garage,I want the car to be as close as possible to a real -71 Hemicuda if I go ahead with this project. What other parts will I need to do this transplant? I already have a original shaker setup on the car.

Thank you
Karl

Well it sounds like you want to do a very correct/detailed conversion so I'll go into a bit of detail, and while I'm sure I'll miss some smaller details, this will get you started. Also, depending on the way your car is currently optioned will add/subtract from the list and since I don't have all those details I'll just assume some things.



You can go the cheap and easy route; crate Hemi, reproduction parts, adaptive engine mounts that retain your original K-member, etc., or you can go the hard/expensive route and try to use all original hard to find date and part# correct etc. parts. Which let me warn you from personal experience, can EASILY cost you 50K in total parts cost and a ton of time seeking out the parts!

Hemi Cuda's should have all had front and rear torque boxes, inside torque box support plates (which your convertible will not have), and a pinion snubber plate welded to the chassis (which your convertible will not have).

Hemi's had unique K-member engine mounts and a skid plate

Since you are going with an automatic your current 8.75 rear end is ok.

If you have power brakes you'll need to get a Hemi style brake booster setup.

If your car has a 22.00 radiator you'll need a 26.00 radiator and the radiator core support will need to be converted to accept it. If you already have a 26.00 radiator the correct number for an early 1971 car (prior to December of 1970 SPD) would be a #2998956, if a later build date then you'd want a #3443959 radiator.

All Hemi Cudas had Shaker Hoods so you'll need a complete Shaker setup which for 1971, includes a manual choke cable to the interior

The correct carburetors would be 4742s front, and a 4746s (automatic) rear. The rear carb would have a manual choke linkage setup bolted to it. These are the same carburetor numbers for 1970 but were modified at the factory to meet 1971 specifications and reused for nearly all 1971 production cars. The date codes are the keys to figuring out which ones are correct. The date codes will be preceded by an "M" which meant "modified" example ML9 4746s.

The correct engine block for 1971 is really the same for any other 1966-1971 street Hemi engine block, casting#2468330, if you want one from an actual 1971 car you will being paying big bucks for a series of 1971 correct assembly markings. An earlier year block will look and function just like a 1971 and will cost you less. If you want the correct 1971 details please e-mail me.
Same story on the transmission, any late 60's/early 70's era big block 727 will look and work just fine but a correct dated 1971 unit will have hemi bands inside and unique assembly numbers/dates.

1970&71 Hemis also had a unique casting numbered drivers side exhaust manifold and they are SUPER expensive and rare to find. Other than the casting number they are just like any other 1966-70 manifold so nothing to worry about with a clone.

Thank you Scott!
This car already have front and rear torque boxes (or are they different on Hemi cars?), 26.00 radiator #3443959 and a shaker setup but with a 340 baseplate offcause. Manual brakes.I think I will use adaptive engine mounts. Will try to find a complete 66-71 street Hemi to start with. I guess I need other leaf springs and rods to.
Car is built 04 Feb 1971.

Karl

Yes you'll need Hemi torsion bars, and leaf springs. The convertible torque boxes were the same as a Hemi car had, but Hemi cars had additional supports welded inside of them, basically flat steel plates that helped make the spring mounts stronger. You can add them to yours easily if you choose but you won't need them.

Finding a quality built original 66-71 engine might be a challenger as there are a lot of bad ones for sale out there that have been raced, broken, and welded up...Be VERY cautious buying an original! If exacting originallity is not a priority you might consider using a new Hemi crate engine built by a reputable builder and then use original or good reproduction accessories on it to give it an original outward appearance.

Scott,

My 71 convertible had the extra support plates in place for the rear spring brackets but as said they are usaually not there except for hemi cars.
Resto Rick has the correct pinion snubber plate with placement instruction sheet included. Karl, this project if done correctly is a daughting task I know I've done it to about 90% and it is very expensive and overwhelming at times. Since you are doing an automatic and have a 8-3/4 it will help reduce cost by thousands....there. I have extra hemi bendix booster and bracket set ups. I did a anal total ground up on my 71 hemicuda convertible imposter and it took me 5 years to seek out, secure, and locate nice original parts I was going to use. If you want it as close as possible it will take extreme patiences, research on parts restoration, friends, and a lot of money !! Just how extreme do you want to go ?? You need to stop and think about it before going forward because it takes comittment. If you want there are many areas where cost can be cut but other areas it needs to be correct. Engine is a big ticket item, just to give you some idea, I had a 66 hemi block, crank, 71 wide pad rockers and some parts that I put back over the years that was a perfect fit for my convertible hemi and it helped me reduce cost, furthermore I do my own engine rebuilding as I have a machine shop so I reduced cost even further. I have not tallied up any sales tickets for parts etc, but I bet I have close to 20k in the engine after detailing it with carbs (scott restored them)and all the correct detailed items, power steering and cooler, fan and clutch, alternator with 052 pulley,correct fuel pump, exhaust manifolds, on and on and on !!! Attention to detail, attention to detail. Just how correct do you want it ? You already mentioned cutting cost with aftermarket engine mounts, that alone causes issues with shaker fit to the hood, I've been told it raises the engine about 5/8 of an inch, which cases issues else where (fan) etc.
Your engine alone could be 30-40k if done correctly with all the right parts, Thats what Scott means by expensive.

MLR426

Thanks guys.
I will sit down and calculate my options. This shop claims that their adaptive engine mounts put the Hemi in the exact correct location http://www.arruzzahighperformance.com/Parts/Parts.html
A big issue is that I live in Sweden so try to collect parts and build a engine here will be very expensive with freights and taxes,much better to buy a totally complete engine to import.
Scott,Can you recomend any engine builder if I decide for a create Hemi as you suggested?

This one here seems to be close to what I need,except manual carbs..
https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/show...part=2&vc=1
Karl