Quote: BTW, don't agree on the theory that the coolant travels too fast to transfer heat - not the same as regulating flow go give more to the hot spots.

not sure what this is referring to? I disagree too

This is a pretty deep subject... But here's my Cars that are drag race only need electric pumps & fans, I can shed 100 degrees of water temp in 3 min with the pump & fan on and engine off so cooling in between rounds is not a issue, Installing your engine with enough tilt < back of engine lower than the front > will help run the air forward to the thermo housing along with oil if you have a rear sump this helps, Larger single pass rads < more surface aera > remove heat better than smaller multi pass rads, No rad will work well if its dirty... whens the last time you cleaned it...

I wonder when some of these cooling articles were written. Stanton runs on methonal. That makes a huge difference over engines running on gasoline.

Anyone who peered over in the engine bay when I ran nitrous on the W8 knows I have experimented with water flow. Either that or ran a bunch of hoses just to throw people off. Well, some of both. When you race against people who make out that they got it all figured out but continuously copy your ideas you have to do what you have to do.

If you are faced with extremen heat between 3&5 4&6 take the hint and try jetting and timing. I love to see the hoses off the rear of the heads. With a stock configuration head gasket those are just for exhausting the boiling bubbles out of the head so weter water can cool the head. Dram commented on restricting these, can't agree more. You need just enough to get the bubbling water out. You can also tap into the water jacket above the combustion chambers with a more ellaborate system. Lot of trouble but it works.

Before you go punching holes in a good head gasket get a set for the W7-9 heads and take a look. There is no rear hole at all. Instead there are holes under the exhaust port. Some gaskets actually the holes get larger going to the rear. You would be surprised how many times I have seen the gaskets on backwards. With these gaskets things work really well for NA engines. P

Put the majic button in the car or forced induction with and you will find small blocks will overheat again. Even if you never see the gauge read over 210. Pull the engine apart and smell all the burnt oil. You can run a hose from the timing cover to the center freeze plug. Very little to no difference. Run big hoses to the rear of the head and equal size at the front, will not keep the engine balanced front to back.

If you really want results block the front of the block up. Run water straight in to all six freeze plugs. The run #6-8 lines from both ends of the head to a water manifold and back to radiator. So heads from round track have center outlest. By all means use thes holes and restict the ends. This is better. But your coolest water is being warmed up by the block before going into the head. Why everyone beats around what the know they should do is beyond me. REVERSE COOL. This puts your best water in the heads first. Then the hot water goes into the block were you need a little heat.

This is just my 2 cents. Mechanical pumps have no business on high RPM race engines unless you have your pulleys ratiod to not cavitate the pump.

Leon

So the issue at the rear of the motor is simply aster of sir trapped in the headspace? So tapping to the T stay with either independent or a T line is not to aid flow by giving the hot water (pushed up through the block) a seperate path to the radiator?

Dan's comments are insightful as always but I'm confused about the restrictors. High pressure will spray very far through even the smallest of orifices....but hardly at all if the pressure is equal ( or near equal) on both sides of the restricting orifice.

The engine (block and heads) would be considered (in process engineering terms) as a pressurized unit. There will be variations in pressure due to different flow paths but nothing will be flowing from high pressure to anything near atmospheric....unless there was a leak. All I'm saying is that differential pressures and temperatures have a big effect on flow and flow rates.

I find the varying holes in the race head gasket very interesting...factored for pressure drops as they get further from the pump discharge. Just like the piling circuit, there are both series and parallel flow paths and any change to one has an effect on the others.

you guys are blinding me with science. but i like science..lol.all i know is i have been running small blocks for 35 years with and never had any cooling problems in my drag car,,,good radiators good electric water pumps

we run circle track & we run the water in the center core plug holes right where the hot spot of the engine is,we use the raceing water pump & drill & tap each site & have alum. bungs made to expoy & drive into the center core hole,you'll need to close off the front water holes in the block, we just had our 366ci dino & in the building could only get temp. up to 179 w/o themorstat, going to have to build raditor covers, need to get temp. up to @ least 200*, would like 220*, got any ? just call me jg309 @ 618-806-1564

Use methanol for fuel.

Leon you long winded sob. Go work on ur car

Dave Webber used to sell those bungs to go in freeze plug holes.

If you are plugging the water pump entry into the block.....Might as well run the water to the heads first and reverse cool. Would probably want to run the race head gasket set and plumb to both ends of the heads and middle if you have the port. You need to run a jumper from the pump to top of radiator or the pump will air lock and not work.

sounds like a lott of trouble,when i can't get mine hot enought without a thermo. & blocking my rad. off now,jg309

here is something I am playing with...

it is a tall fill block...about 1" of water and will run E-85. The pump is an electric unit mounted to a cut down factory cover to access the belt drive. The ports are radiused and the cover is spaced away from the block with Meziere spacers and the ports inside the cover are shaped to aid flow. Where the spacers meet the cover the cover is tapped and plugged. Then a fitting on each side is installed at about a 45* angle. Hoses from these fittings will attach to a manifold that puts water in the heads at all three inlets with bleeders to a purge tank teed into the rear. The water will then flow into the block and out the front. When it exits the block it will stop at the plug in the rear of the pump mount and exit the spacers through fitting drilled/tapped into the sides and got to the thermostat housing mounted on the front motor plate....still in developement stages right now......

...don't mind the cords...they are Battery Tender cables for the mower........

That is a neat approach.

Before I tall filled my R3 I was reverse cooling and using the press in fittings in the freeze plug holes. When the block was filled we lost the access to return water to the radiator.

REally liked the benefits of reverse cooling running nitrous. You method may have worked well for me. A remote pump would also work and just run the spacers behind a motor plate with no water pump passages.

Thanks! I actually thought the same thing about the remote but but I liked to look of the 'chopped up' factory cover and stock style electric pump

plus by using the factory front cover it gives me an attachment point for the front plate which holds the external oil pump, dual filter housing, therm housing, alt and vacuum pump..

seems by reverse cooling in this manner the pump would also 'think' the water is flowing in the normal manner .....