Re: 55 dodge truck on a 2005 dakota chassis
[Re: Dabee]
#1313951
10/01/12 08:28 PM
10/01/12 08:28 PM
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Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 15,118 85086
moparpollack
Lil Herman
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Lil Herman
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 15,118
85086
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I'm using a 95 Dakota for my 39 Plymouth project. So far the project has been simple and pretty easy. If you look on the HAMB there are a few projects using the Dakota chassis.
The rack being up front makes locating the engine easy. The only change I have to make on the chassis is the fuel system because I'm using a carb instead of fuel injection. Cutting the bed sides off made the bed floor easy since it was in place. The bed floor will be shallower than stock but I'm fine with that. The bed floor kicks up so trying to make a deep bed will be a challenge.
Setting the ride height and making the cab mounts was a little challenging since I didn't have a lift to hold things in place. Changing the bolt pattern is a matter of changing the rotors. The truck us wide enough that a b body rear end is two inches narrower than the stock Dakota rear end.
56 Plaza 63 D100 step side 67 Coronet, 68 Roadrunner, 69 Super Bees, 69 Coronet 500 convertible, 70 Roadrunner Post, 79 D150 360, and a severe case of Mopar a,d,d
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Re: 55 dodge truck on a 2005 dakota chassis
[Re: poorboy]
#1313953
10/02/12 09:37 AM
10/02/12 09:37 AM
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Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 15,118 85086
moparpollack
Lil Herman
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Lil Herman
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 15,118
85086
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The older caps fit the spare steelie wheels so it's. Cheap fix for a minute or until you decide on wheels.
56 Plaza 63 D100 step side 67 Coronet, 68 Roadrunner, 69 Super Bees, 69 Coronet 500 convertible, 70 Roadrunner Post, 79 D150 360, and a severe case of Mopar a,d,d
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Re: 55 dodge truck on a 2005 dakota chassis
[Re: Dabee]
#1313955
11/08/12 03:46 PM
11/08/12 03:46 PM
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Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 773 Crofton, Ky.
rattler
super stock
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super stock
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 773
Crofton, Ky.
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I married an 88 Dak frame with a 57 truck frame. I joined them with a half-lap joint at the rear of the cab. I didn't like the idea of all the stress being at the front of the cab. After you join the frame halfs, it is just a matter of cutting off the truck cab mounts and rewelding them to the Dak frame. You can set your cab ride height then. If you need some pics, I could send them from my home computer.
1957 Dodge truck, Snakeskin Green with a little stroker motor. 1964 Plymouth Savoy wagon ( my new project)
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Re: 55 dodge truck on a 2005 dakota chassis
[Re: Dabee]
#1313957
11/09/12 03:02 PM
11/09/12 03:02 PM
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Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 773 Crofton, Ky.
rattler
super stock
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super stock
Joined: Feb 2009
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Crofton, Ky.
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I'll try to send you some pics this weekend if I don't forget.
1957 Dodge truck, Snakeskin Green with a little stroker motor. 1964 Plymouth Savoy wagon ( my new project)
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Re: 55 dodge truck on a 2005 dakota chassis
[Re: Dabee]
#1313961
11/11/12 10:42 AM
11/11/12 10:42 AM
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Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 773 Crofton, Ky.
rattler
super stock
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super stock
Joined: Feb 2009
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Crofton, Ky.
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That looks good. One of the reasons I didn' do mine like that is that 57 trucks narrow quite a bit just behind the motor center, making pipes and sush a tight fit.
1957 Dodge truck, Snakeskin Green with a little stroker motor. 1964 Plymouth Savoy wagon ( my new project)
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Re: 55 dodge truck on a 2005 dakota chassis
[Re: rattler]
#1313962
12/29/12 02:35 AM
12/29/12 02:35 AM
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Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 2,886 Bowling Green KY / Nashville, ...
300by500
master
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master
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 2,886
Bowling Green KY / Nashville, ...
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A friend of mine dropped his field-find '52 "Binder" onto a late 1990's LWB Dakota. He said the length of the frame is much easier to modify than the WIDTH, and the the width of the Dakota chassis fit perfectly once he shortened the frame. He even kept the Dakota floor, firewall, dash, ECU, gas tank, etc.
It was a 6-lug truck, so he ordered black steel wheels (cheap) and used some old wheel covers he had lying around.
Most important: pay attention to the track width comparisons between your truck and whichever Dakota you use.
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Re: 55 dodge truck on a 2005 dakota chassis
[Re: 300by500]
#1313963
12/29/12 11:18 AM
12/29/12 11:18 AM
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Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 773 Crofton, Ky.
rattler
super stock
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super stock
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 773
Crofton, Ky.
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Agreed on the track width. That is the biggest problem when people use a full size truck frame under an old truck. The track is just too wide and the don't look right.
1957 Dodge truck, Snakeskin Green with a little stroker motor. 1964 Plymouth Savoy wagon ( my new project)
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Re: 55 dodge truck on a 2005 dakota chassis
[Re: Dabee]
#1313964
12/31/12 01:03 AM
12/31/12 01:03 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,486 Freeport IL USA
poorboy
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,486
Freeport IL USA
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Quote:
Thanks that looks close to how I’m thinking I need to do mine. Having never done this before I’m looking for confirmation I’m not about to do something stupid. I have built full tube chassis race cars before but this is my first street rod project and attempt to mate two chassis.
If you have built tube chassis race cars, this frame splice and swap will be a walk in the park.
I have a 48 Plymouth business coupe sitting on a 90 Dakota frame. I used the frame, floor pans, firewall, box floor and the full Dakota drive train. My biggest issue was the 48 body was rotted out bad. its not pretty yet, but I put almost 4,000 miles on it last summer. Would have put a lot more on it if gas wasn't so expensive and I was so broke. Gene
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Re: 55 dodge truck on a 2005 dakota chassis
[Re: MOPARS#1]
#1313966
01/02/13 01:59 PM
01/02/13 01:59 PM
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Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,757 levittown pa
fstfish66
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,757
levittown pa
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if im not mistaken,the later dakotas starting in ?? are strut front end,not using an upper A arm,,i would think that would make it super involoved to use a strt front end frame,,
65 dodge your splice looks great,,
1966 barracuda prostreeter super charged 340(SOLD) 1940 dodge coupe 241 hemi street rod 2014 ram express hemi 4x4 dailey driver 2015 cherokee 2013 R/T classic
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Re: 55 dodge truck on a 2005 dakota chassis
[Re: Dabee]
#1313979
03/01/13 10:55 PM
03/01/13 10:55 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,398 Dandridge TN
Dabee
OP
master
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OP
master
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,398
Dandridge TN
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05 Dakota fire wall and floor pan all welded in and sealed. The job was much easier than I thought it would be.
Last edited by dabeast2; 03/01/13 10:57 PM.
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Re: 55 dodge truck on a 2005 dakota chassis
[Re: Dabee]
#1313983
03/07/13 03:33 PM
03/07/13 03:33 PM
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Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 773 Crofton, Ky.
rattler
super stock
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super stock
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 773
Crofton, Ky.
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Hey Russ, I was going to chop the top on my 57 too, but I'm glad I didn't. I'm 6' 3" and 225 lbs. and just have enough room with the stock roof.
1957 Dodge truck, Snakeskin Green with a little stroker motor. 1964 Plymouth Savoy wagon ( my new project)
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Re: 55 dodge truck on a 2005 dakota chassis
[Re: poorboy]
#1313988
03/08/13 09:25 AM
03/08/13 09:25 AM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,398 Dandridge TN
Dabee
OP
master
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OP
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,398
Dandridge TN
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Quote:
I like the way this truck is coming out, it should be a fun daily driver. Gene
Thanks Gene, it's always good to get positive feed back when your in the middle of a first time project. It's going to be fun seeing the looks this truck is going to get when it passes someone on the expressway doing 80 mph. I don't like the way the front end sets. Its to high, so I ordered a set of two inch drop springs from Belltech for the front and raised the back one inch.
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Re: 55 dodge truck on a 2005 dakota chassis
[Re: Dabee]
#1313993
03/12/13 06:21 PM
03/12/13 06:21 PM
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Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 52 illinois
rapidtransitrick
member
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member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 52
illinois
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Quote:
The Hemi in it's new home.
sure looks good in there
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Re: 55 dodge truck on a 2005 dakota chassis
[Re: rapidtransitrick]
#1313996
03/23/13 11:52 AM
03/23/13 11:52 AM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,398 Dandridge TN
Dabee
OP
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OP
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Dandridge TN
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Quote:
very nice.
Thanks, installing the Belltech 2 Inch drop coils in the front and raising the rear one inch really improved the stance.
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Re: 55 dodge truck on a 2005 dakota chassis
[Re: Dabee]
#1313999
03/23/13 09:39 PM
03/23/13 09:39 PM
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Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 52 illinois
rapidtransitrick
member
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member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 52
illinois
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Quote:
They don't make a dropped spindle for 04 and up Dakota. There isn't enough clearance for the ball joint on the lower control arm. It hits the rim. My only option was the 2 inch dropped coil springs. Yes they are nice quality and went in real easy. Cost from Summit with my racers discount was $135 plus shipping. I think dropped spendles run around $500 a pair so the springs were a better deal.
they achieved your purpose correct
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Re: 55 dodge truck on a 2005 dakota chassis
[Re: rapidtransitrick]
#1314001
03/24/13 09:01 AM
03/24/13 09:01 AM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,398 Dandridge TN
Dabee
OP
master
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OP
master
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,398
Dandridge TN
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Quote:
Quote:
They don't make a dropped spindle for 04 and up Dakota. There isn't enough clearance for the ball joint on the lower control arm. It hits the rim. My only option was the 2 inch dropped coil springs. Yes they are nice quality and went in real easy. Cost from Summit with my racers discount was $135 plus shipping. I think dropped spendles run around $500 a pair so the springs were a better deal.
they achieved your purpose correct
. I'll know better once I get the sheet metal back on. But, yes so far they look like they are going to get the job done.
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Re: 55 dodge truck on a 2005 dakota chassis
[Re: Dabee]
#1314014
08/16/13 03:50 AM
08/16/13 03:50 AM
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Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,757 levittown pa
fstfish66
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,757
levittown pa
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Quote:
The 55 is almost done. I have a few little things to adjust and shoot a clear coat on it. I have been driving it for a week now and have already put over 400 miles on it. The 5.7 Hemi runs great and the truck drives really nice. I'm very pleased with the results. Have a look at the you tube linke below.
http://youtu.be/ilU3XUiLmJA
sounds good nice stance,,if it were mine i would paint it,just my opinion,,but very kool,,,what did u use for electronics ? factory EFI ? or CARB?
1966 barracuda prostreeter super charged 340(SOLD) 1940 dodge coupe 241 hemi street rod 2014 ram express hemi 4x4 dailey driver 2015 cherokee 2013 R/T classic
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Re: 55 dodge truck on a 2005 dakota chassis
[Re: Dabee]
#1314020
09/19/13 01:02 PM
09/19/13 01:02 PM
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Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 5,746 Ontario, Canada
Dodgem
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master
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Ontario, Canada
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Russ out front of Hyper henry's place in Kitchener Ontario Canada. Russ was hear for a 2 day visit we were all over the place with that truck everywhere we went people are taking pictures and some asking questions it runs real good! GOOD JOB RUSS
Last edited by Dodgem; 09/19/13 01:03 PM.
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Re: 55 dodge truck on a 2005 dakota chassis
[Re: rapidtransitrick]
#1314022
10/05/13 03:53 PM
10/05/13 03:53 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,398 Dandridge TN
Dabee
OP
master
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OP
master
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,398
Dandridge TN
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Quote:
just too cool
Thanks, on Oct17 we are driving the 55 to Myrtle Beach for Cruising The Beach. I already have over 4000 miles on it.
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Re: 55 dodge truck on a 2005 dakota chassis
[Re: Dabee]
#2779694
05/30/20 09:56 AM
05/30/20 09:56 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 16,802 Between Houston & Galveston TX
SattyNoCar
Smarter than no class Flappergass by a mile
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Smarter than no class Flappergass by a mile
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 16,802
Between Houston & Galveston TX
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Thanks for the followup! Still a very cool project! The pics are still here, you just have to click the link to 'download' them and you can them. That being said though, any current pics?
John
The dream is dead, long live the dream.......😥
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Re: 55 dodge truck on a 2005 dakota chassis
[Re: Dabee]
#3092294
11/07/22 01:42 PM
11/07/22 01:42 PM
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Joined: Nov 2022
Posts: 201 Green Bay
Andyvh1959
enthusiast
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enthusiast
Joined: Nov 2022
Posts: 201
Green Bay
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Great to hear. My 56CDAK journey is just starting. I bought a solid 56 big window Dodge which will go on my 2001 Dakota chassis. Everything from the Dak cab will go into the 56 as my daily driver. So as a daily driver is the fuel mileage reasonable? I plan to use a remanufactured long block 4.7V8 with a 65RFE automatic, which I hope on highway driving will get me 20+mpg. It should be turning less than 1800 rpm at 70. Curious too, what it's like in colder weather to drive a vintage style cab. Is the heating/windshield defrost equal to what it is in a 2005 Dakota? I'm in Green Bay so the weather here is similar to Ontario.
Last edited by Andyvh1959; 11/07/22 02:36 PM.
My 56 C3-B8 Dakota build
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Re: 55 dodge truck on a 2005 dakota chassis
[Re: Andyvh1959]
#3092463
11/07/22 11:45 PM
11/07/22 11:45 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,486 Freeport IL USA
poorboy
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,486
Freeport IL USA
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Great to hear. My 56CDAK journey is just starting. I bought a solid 56 big window Dodge which will go on my 2001 Dakota chassis. Everything from the Dak cab will go into the 56 as my daily driver. So as a daily driver is the fuel mileage reasonable? I plan to use a remanufactured long block 4.7V8 with a 65RFE automatic, which I hope on highway driving will get me 20+mpg. It should be turning less than 1800 rpm at 70. Curious too, what it's like in colder weather to drive a vintage style cab. Is the heating/windshield defrost equal to what it is in a 2005 Dakota? I'm in Green Bay so the weather here is similar to Ontario. I have a 49 Dodge truck on a Dakota chassis build here on Moparts. I've driven my truck through a winter (north west corner of IL) with actual snowfall, frosted glass, and 0 degree weather, my truck sits outside when not being driven. Your 56 should get pretty close to the same mpg as the Dakota got, if you keep the EFI. The shape of the body won't have much effect unless your truck only sees lots of highway miles, then a slight difference due to aerodynamics may make a difference of 1-2 mpg. My 49 with a 5.2 Magnum and a 46RE and 3:55 gears on a 94 Dakota 4x4 chassis got just under 18 mpg @ 75 mph with 235 x 75- 15 tires. Around town is 10 - 13 mpg. The 56 cab is more aerodynamic then the 49 is. I would strongly suggest that you add sound deadener/insolation to the inside surfaces of the cab (in addition to door & kick panels, and a headliner), especially the roof, firewall, back of the cab, and floors. That stuff makes a huge difference in keeping the heat in during the winter, and keeping heat out during the winter. I use the self stick stuff made from butyl rather then the stuff made from asphalt, the asphalt stuff can melt if the temps get over 90 degrees during the summer. I used stuff called NOICO, but since it came from Russia, it may not be available now, but you should be able to find alternatives. You also need to be sure your wipers are up to the task, if your 56 still has the vacuum wipers, they are not going to cut it. You will need well functioning electric wipers, and a windshield washer would be a great addition as well. When you are hijacking stuff from your Dakota donor, be sure you get the heat/ac box and the defroster duct work for the Dakota and adapt it into the 56 dash, The 56 defrosting system needs a lot of help. The Dakota heater & defroster duct work clears the windshield pretty fast, keeps it clear, and warms the cab in about a mile with a 195 stat. Its a cold ride before that 1st mile. Heated seats would be a great option... Gene
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Re: 55 dodge truck on a 2005 dakota chassis
[Re: Dabee]
#3093269
11/10/22 09:51 PM
11/10/22 09:51 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,486 Freeport IL USA
poorboy
I Live Here
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I Live Here
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Posts: 10,486
Freeport IL USA
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The windows on my 55 fog up really bad in cold or wet weather. I beat it with liberal amounts of RainX on the outside and RainX ant fog on the inside. The problem is my classic air AC Heater system doesn’t circulate fresh air from outside to remove the moisture inside the cab. This is the primary reason I used the heat/ac box out of the Dakota. That box has a fresh air duct at the top of it (Pic 1, extreme right side of the pic about center of the frame, the black oval.) You can also see the Dakota duct work mounted to the cowl, It attaches to the heater box on the smaller square to the left of the outlet with the green foam (The green foam is the AC outlet, I do not have the AC functioning yet.). I am never concerned about heat, all the air in the heat/defrost part runs through the defroster duct. There is enough heat in the cab through the defroster duct work to make the cab very comfortable after a few miles of driving, if the cab is sealed well enough. To me seeing is more important then being warm. Pic 2 is the hole I cut into the cowl for fresh air. It is about 3" high x 5" wide. on the left side of the hole you can see the fresh air inlet for the Dakota Heater box. If you were looking straight at it, that inlet for the Dakota heater is centered in the opening. I made a simple duct work to connect the hole with the heater inlet out of light gauge sheet metal. Pic 3, The hole I cut probably can get water flow from under the hood when it rains. This picture shows how I built up a water trough for the water to run around both sides of the hole. Everything clears the hood by about 1/4". I can't find a picture of the duct work I made, I was sure I took pics, but who knows at this point. Pic 4 shows the cover I use through the summer. Without the cover, there is a lot of under the hood heat comes into the cab. The cover hooks under the top edge and over both sides and is held in place with two screws on the bottom edge. When the truck got painted, the entire cowl above the body seam was painted body color. I have not removed the cover yet this year, but with the predicted temps for the next 10 days, I will likely remove it tomorrow. With the cover painted body color, it blends in nicely, it may not look so pretty after its been removed and installed a few times, but that sort of thing comes with it being a daily driver. If I can't find pictures of the duct work between the cowl hole and the heater box, I'll try to get a couple then. Gene
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Re: 55 dodge truck on a 2005 dakota chassis
[Re: Dabee]
#3093606
11/12/22 12:45 AM
11/12/22 12:45 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,486 Freeport IL USA
poorboy
I Live Here
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I Live Here
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Posts: 10,486
Freeport IL USA
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I had to move my fire wall back 6 inches and the radiator forward 2 inches to get the 5.7 Gen III Hemi in the truck. There isn’t enough room under the dash for that Dakota heat ac unit. The Classic Air mini unit barely fit under there. I can understand that for sure. How well does your glass seal? Do you have insolation in your cab? Does the Classic Air have AC that is directed through the heater core and then through the defrost ducts? Can you pull fresh air up through the bottom of the kick panel into the Classic Air unit or is there no option for fresh air into the Classic Air unit at all?
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Re: 55 dodge truck on a 2005 dakota chassis
[Re: poorboy]
#3093717
11/12/22 02:20 PM
11/12/22 02:20 PM
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Joined: Nov 2022
Posts: 201 Green Bay
Andyvh1959
enthusiast
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Posts: 201
Green Bay
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On the 55 and 56, when the PS hood is up there is a vertical surface above the fender facing to the side, up to a seam on the firewall under the hood Could that be a space for a fresh air intake to the cab? Make the cutout on that vertical face, cover it with S/S screen mesh (like that screen used for gutter guards). Then add a vertical seal just forward of the screen, and above the screen, back to the welting for the hood when it is closed. Stop the hood welting just where it meets the seal for the fresh air intake. If the seal were thick enough to require some compression when the hood is closed it would seal off the fresh air intake from the engine compartment. But fresh air can enter under the bottom edge of the hood just above the RH fender. So the screen is covered from outside elements and separated from the engine compartment heat. Inside under the dash area form a duct that rises from the bottom edge of the fresh air intake so that any moisture that could get in would have to travel uphill to get into the ducting, so that should minimize any chance for water/snow to get drawn into the cab.
This would be similar to the fresh air intakes for the cab on my 2001 Dakota. When the hood is closed a seal forward of the intake area is compressed by the underside of the hood, thus sealing the fresh air intake from the engine compartment. But the trailing end of the hood extends past and over the fresh air intake to keep water, snow, ice, etc from flooding into the cab fresh air intake. Whatever the size is of the ducting coming out of the cab blower, make the intake tubing about 1.5 times that cross section to make sure the blower is not working harder to pull in fresh air. The fresh air intake duct would then go to the blower housing suction side where the fresh air/In-cab air damper would be.
Poorboy, on your installation where you show the cutout under the hood for the fresh air intake, the area I refer to is further to the left (looking back to the windshield), lower below the firewall flange and vertical, versus where your cutout is higher and above the firewall flange under the hood.
My 56 C3-B8 Dakota build
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Re: 55 dodge truck on a 2005 dakota chassis
[Re: Andyvh1959]
#3093761
11/12/22 05:16 PM
11/12/22 05:16 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,486 Freeport IL USA
poorboy
I Live Here
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I Live Here
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Freeport IL USA
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I responded by PM, but for anyone that might be reading this, the 48-56 hoods close on top of the forward 1/2 of the cowl. The hood sides are support by a center piece, and both sides are held closed by latches that pull the hood down against the cowl and the bracket at the radiator support. The cowl part behind the hood is exposed to everything outside. The cowl part under the hood is exposed to everything going on under the hood, and the entire cowl has to support the rear end of the hood sides. The original seal for the rear of the hood was a welting that as nailed through the cowl. Most replacement seals are rubber, but the welting is available for restoration purposes. The front part of the cowl seals the engine compartment from the passenger compartment.
You can remove that under the hood part of the cowl forward of the step for the hood seal, but you will have to figure out a way to seal the engine compartment from the passenger compartment, and you have to provide enough bracing to support the rear of both hood 1/2s and the center hood hinge piece. You can pull the fresh air for heat/defrost from under the hood, but you will want to keep that opening to a minimum because you will pull under hood odors, under hood heat in the summer, and under hood cold air (until that air warms up) in the winter. You also create a possible place for an under hood fire to enter the passenger compartment. A small hole (about 4" in diameter) will provide plenty of fresh air for a heat/defroster, and will reduce the chance of an under hood fire getting into the passenger compartment. A hole that size can also be filtered to reduce unwanted odors, and a closable door can stop unwanted heat in the summer.
Most modern outside vents pull outside air through louvers in the hood, or gaps between the hood and the windshield. There is a box under the fresh air intake with water drains and a protected from direct rain area above the expected water line where the fresh air enters the cab. The heater boxes usually have a drain at the bottom to remove any water that has gotten into the box. Modern heat/ac units are designed to pull required fresh air (or recycled air from inside the cab) into the system with as little added moisture as possible. Then they add a way for any moisture that has entered the system to get out before the fan can push that moisture against the glass. Ac systems both cool and dry the air. Modern heat/ac systems funnel the cool dry air through the defroster system to first dry the air, then pass that air through the heater to warm the air. The dry warm air is forced against the glass as fast as possible. The warmer, the dryer, and the faster the air moves, the faster it clears the glass. A system without fresh air and without ac can clear the glass, but it needs to get rid of the excess moisture to be more efficient.
If your glass is slow to clear, its possible there is too much moisture in your cab. Poor glass seals and poor door seals are a good place to start to reduce the moisture in your cab. If water is coming it, you have to figure out a way to at least slow it down as much as possible. Total seal is the best option, but these old Dodges had lots of gaps around the glass and doors.
Condensation is the next biggest culprit. If you don't have some form of insolation stuck to the inside of the cab sheet metal, you are probably adding moisture through condensation forming on the inside of the metal that is warming inside but cold outside. Your defroster fan is pushing that moisture directly against the glass.
Wet carpets? Brush as much of that snow off as you can before you get into the truck, and fix the holes in your floors.
the air coming out of your defroster has to be as warm as possible, and it has to be moving as fast as possible. Most of the old heaters have fans with blades moving the air. Modern fans have squirrel cages moving air. Squirrel cages move the air about 2x faster then fan blades will. Are the duct work and vents designed to move as much air as fast as possible? Smooth surface walls and easy curves move more air then rough inside surfaces and 90 degree square bends.
Lastly, is you glass clean? Dirty, smoke, or antifreeze coverd glass takes much longer to clear then clean glass does.
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Re: 55 dodge truck on a 2005 dakota chassis
[Re: poorboy]
#3093763
11/12/22 05:17 PM
11/12/22 05:17 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,398 Dandridge TN
Dabee
OP
master
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OP
master
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,398
Dandridge TN
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I had to move my fire wall back 6 inches and the radiator forward 2 inches to get the 5.7 Gen III Hemi in the truck. There isn’t enough room under the dash for that Dakota heat ac unit. The Classic Air mini unit barely fit under there. I can understand that for sure. How well does your glass seal? Do you have insolation in your cab? Does the Classic Air have AC that is directed through the heater core and then through the defrost ducts? Can you pull fresh air up through the bottom of the kick panel into the Classic Air unit or is there no option for fresh air into the Classic Air unit at all? . Glass seals fine. Moving the fire wall didn’t impact the windows. Yes I have insolation. I replaced the original fire wall and floor with a firewall and floor from a Dakota. I used the Dakota insolation. Yes the air is directed through the heater core then to the defrost ducts. There is not enough room to pull air in through the kick panel into the classic. So that wasn’t an option.
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Re: 55 dodge truck on a 2005 dakota chassis
[Re: poorboy]
#3096700
11/24/22 12:36 AM
11/24/22 12:36 AM
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Joined: Nov 2022
Posts: 201 Green Bay
Andyvh1959
enthusiast
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enthusiast
Joined: Nov 2022
Posts: 201
Green Bay
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I just saw a video of a 55 Ford F1 build onto a newer chassis. Just realized what those louvers are for on the PS of the cowl just aft of the hoodline, most likely for the cabin fresh air intake. The louvers are only on the PS of the cab. Always wondered why the old Fords had those louvers on one side of the cab. That would be cool on the 56 Dodge but a louver section would have to be welded into a cutout section of the cab side cowl to make it work.
My 56 C3-B8 Dakota build
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Re: 55 dodge truck on a 2005 dakota chassis
[Re: Andyvh1959]
#3096926
11/24/22 10:16 PM
11/24/22 10:16 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,486 Freeport IL USA
poorboy
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,486
Freeport IL USA
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Mid 50s Chevy and GMC trucks had a small door on the side of the cowl that opened & closed from inside the truck for the fresh air. That part of your Dodge truck is covered by the back part of the front fender, and any opening would open between the cab and the back side of the fender. On the original Dodge trucks, that area was also exposed to anything the front tire could kick up and send back into the area. With modern inner fenders that could protect the possible fresh air door location from the tire kicked up stuff, you would be pulling the air from under the bottom of the fender or between the engine compartment and the inner fender. That probably wouldn't be a bad place to pull the air from during the winter, but it could be pretty hot air during the summer. Rigging up a door to open and close in that tight space could be an issue (it could open inward where there may be more room, or outward). Inside of the cab, that location would be the passenger side kick panel between the dash and the floor. That air would then have to be ducted into the HVAC box. On my 49, I just moved that fresh air intake to the top of the cowl, which made the duct work easy. I could have probably taken the time to create a door that would open and close, but the cover for the summer was quick and easy, but the cowl fresh air vent on my truck still functions for the summer use. My AC is not functional at this point yet, but may be in the future.
I might also add that I have my EFI computer mounted in that passenger side kick panel area on my truck. Locations you can place the computer are pretty limited on the old cabs, those wires only reach so far and since most measure resistance, making the wires longer probably isn't a great idea.
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Re: 55 dodge truck on a 2005 dakota chassis
[Re: poorboy]
#3102096
12/13/22 10:08 PM
12/13/22 10:08 PM
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Joined: Nov 2022
Posts: 201 Green Bay
Andyvh1959
enthusiast
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enthusiast
Joined: Nov 2022
Posts: 201
Green Bay
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My 56 C3 today was flat bedded from the seller's driveway to my FIL's pole building, now resting quietly, safe and dry amoug his collection of Jodn Deere, Oliver, Massey Harris and Ford tractors.
Russ and Gene, your cool Dodge classics on Dakota chassis's are my inspirations to do my 1st chassis swap. It will be a long and challenging build, and I hope to have a truck close to what you've both built. You both should be very proud and satisfied with your efforts. Maybe someday I'll park my turquoise 56 next to one of your trucks.
My 56 C3-B8 Dakota build
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