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I would think your next step would be to take the
d-shaft out and put a slip yoke in the trans and
mount something to to keep it from falling out.
Spin it up to the known problem rpm/speed and see
if its still there, that would emininate the d-shaft
and rear end if its still there..... or it would
say that its a d-shaft or rear end problem if it
isnt there

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I'm having the same problem and I was wondering about doing this. But I have 2 questions How would you keep the slip yoke on the tailshaft? Will it hurt the engine/tranny running it up to 5500 with no load on it?

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It has to be the drive shaft that is why it moved up in speed when you changed to the cruiser rear gear. The yokes may be slightly out of align. I would put a whole different drive shaft in it.

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Put a 2.74 gear in it and you won't reach the MPH necessary to cause vibration . I agree with many other that it sounds like pinion angle to me, Do as suggested and check to make sure the spring perchs are good and not cracked form housing. Could still be a balance problem with the engine somehow. If the B+M flexplate is supposed to be balanced for 360 and the converter people no the converter is going in a 360. The converter may not be neutral balanced and could also be balanced for 360. I would think if both these items were balanced for 360 you would get an out of balance effect.

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Put a 2.74 gear in it and you won't reach the MPH necessary to cause vibration . I agree with many other that it sounds like pinion angle to me, Do as suggested and check to make sure the spring perchs are good and not cracked form housing. Could still be a balance problem with the engine somehow. If the B+M flexplate is supposed to be balanced for 360 and the converter people no the converter is going in a 360. The converter may not be neutral balanced and could also be balanced for 360. I would think if both these items were balanced for 360 you would get an out of balance effect.

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just had the conveter redone to zero balance

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Had it redone to zero balance?????? So it was a 360 balanced converter b4?? I agree with Fred, seldom do I read old threads form the beginning but I did this one and my Brain hurts. I agree with removing the driveshaft and towing it behind another vehicle. My continued thought at this point is pinion angle or broken spring perch. Please advise all on the board how you are adjusting/reading your current pinion angle and what the current reading is.

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Ok Dan, get you a tow strap. Remove the driveshaft, tie strap to car, tie other end to truck. Have someone drive you up to speed and see if the vibe is still there. If its still there continue to tow the car to the highest point possible and push it off(be sure to unhook from truck) LOL j/k.

I hate vibrations, my jeep is double the fun as it has two driveshafts with double cardan joints, so 6 u-joints and 2 slips yokes spinning at all times can be fun when you get a vibe.

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LOL i was thinking of a car dolly, but i'd be real affraid to go that fast LOL.

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Well if you dont want to drag it that fast you
better do what I suggested on the stands, either
way it would eliminate alot of stuff and zero in
on the problem

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im gonna try that first cause its easier lol

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How are you sintalling teh u joints? Are you seating them against the clips after installing the clips? It's driveshaft. Definately. If you moved it up and fdowna couple degrees (pinion angle) what is is currently set at? You are positive you're measuring it properly?

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im using a vise to put them in and pushing them up against the clips too.


There are 4 clips to align the u joint 2 that retain the joint in the shaft.

And 2 that position the joint in the pinion yoke. Some people discard these, do you still have yours? They are needed as they properly position/align the joint into the pinion yoke.


You also stated you did Not replace the crush sleeve when you did the gear change. If you grab the pinion yoke can you force any up or down play out of it, or is it tight.

On the front yoke you stated you had plenty of clearence. How much is plenty, if you have to much that can cause vibration too. After bottoming out the slip yoke I like about 1/2 to 3/4 of a inch clearence. 1" would be max IMO


Also what happend with you putting that thing on stands and running with no shaft and a slip yoke plug. On sunday you said that was a great idea and would try that.

But today you take it out for another cruise only to confirm the vibration, again!!

I too think its related to the shaft or its componets. When you did the shaft run out was it installed on the car or on v blocks.

You will get her figured out, because you have alot heads working on it . mike

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How are you sintalling teh u joints? Are you seating them against the clips after installing the clips? It's driveshaft. Definately. If you moved it up and fdowna couple degrees (pinion angle) what is is currently set at? You are positive you're measuring it properly?

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im using a vise to put them in and pushing them up against the clips too.


There are 4 clips to align the u joint 2 that retain the joint in the shaft.

And 2 that position the joint in the pinion yoke. Some people discard these, do you still have yours? They are needed as they properly position/align the joint into the pinion yoke.


You also stated you did Not replace the crush sleeve when you did the gear change. If you grab the pinion yoke can you force any up or down play out of it, or is it tight.

On the front yoke you stated you had plenty of clearence. How much is plenty, if you have to much that can cause vibration too. After bottoming out the slip yoke I like about 1/2 to 3/4 of a inch clearence. 1" would be max IMO


Also what happend with you putting that thing on stands and running with no shaft and a slip yoke plug. On sunday you said that was a great idea and would try that.

But today you take it out for another cruise only to confirm the vibration, again!!

I too think its related to the shaft or its componets. When you did the shaft run out was it installed on the car or on v blocks.

You will get her figured out, because you have alot heads working on it . mike

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i do have the clips in the ujoint all the way around, i have a max of 3/4 clearance, i didnt get a chance to spin it on the stands with just the yoke in the tail shaft cause i had to work. im gonna do my best to try it tomorrow after work, cause friday,sat and sun i'll be camping in the pocono's lol

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I'm having the same problem and I was wondering about doing this. But I have 2 questions How would you keep the slip yoke on the tailshaft? Will it hurt the engine/tranny running it up to 5500 with no load on it?

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What I would do is have the car on stands and yoke
in the trans put a jack stand or something like it
with a flat plate mounted to the stand. Slide the
stand in behind the yoke just so its not touching,
so the yoke can move some. Run the car to the speed/rpm
thats the problem point.At least at this point you
could say its there(vib) and know that its a trans/engine
issue or no the vib issnt there and that would say
that its a d-shaft rear end problem. Running the
engine and trans isnt a problem with no load but
when you slow it down put it in N and shut the engine
off, dont put it in park with the engine running

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im gonna give this a shot when i get back on sunday, i'll let you guys know what happens,

thx again for the replys guys