For the AC compressor, that is? The power plug that attaches to teh rear of the compressor has been broken off. I cannot find a replacement plug, so I improvised by using the connectors from a junk yard part that works. My AC didn't kick on, so I stuck the V/O meter on the wire (with the car running and the AC "ON", light showing operational), and I got a 3 volt reading. Is that all there is, or is there another problem?

Should be 12 volts most likely from a relay but I would have to look it up because Mopar uses a few different AC sytems that are wired different. I will see if I can look up the wireing for you tomorrow. Ron

I really appreciate it Ron! It's a 2.4 engine, and there are only two wires attaching to the compressor- all black, and black with a white stripe. I did try switching their positions (since I don't know if it mattered, the factory plug on the wire harness is gone), but it didn't change anything.

Eric

What it looked like before splicing on the new wire ends.

You know that might be the newer comp that has the clutch engaged all the time. It uses a solenoid in the comp that works when you turn the AC on to let the wobble plate move and now have a stroke to comp and flow the freon. When off the solenoid lets the stroke stop wotking so that even if the clutch is engaged there is no stoke in the comp and nothing flows. I will try to see if it calls for that one. Ron

I found it as it uses the full time clutch which means the clutch is always engaged. It has a break away clutch as they call it in case the comp locks the clutch will break the pins in it and still turn but the comp will not turn. It will still look normal when you look at it. You may have to remove the belt and spin the comp by hand to make sure the comp is turninmg and not just the clutch hub. Also the voltge may be low as the voltage is pulse witdh modulated by the PCM which controls it. The more volts to it the more the solenoid opens an orfice which puts more freon on the wobble plate head and gives it more stroke to pump more freon and cool more
I cant get the wire diagrahm to work for some reason. . I will try it again later. Ron

All kinds of great information! Thank you!

One other quick question- does the polarity of the two wires matter? It didn't seem to make any difference to me...

I dont think it does but I need to see the wiring diagrahm to be sure. I am off to Carlisle and will be back Sunday night. Ron

Have a great time and safe travels!

The A/C compressor is controlled by the powertrain control module (PCM) or engine control module (ECM), depending on engine application. The PCM/ECM calculates compressor displacement required by A/C system load and demand by monitoring vehicle speed, A/C high side pressure, engine speed, evaporator temperature, accelerator pedal position, ambient temperature and A/C-heater request signals. The PCM/ECM then sends a pulse width modulated (PWM) signal to the A/C compressor control solenoid to increase or decrease refrigerant flow through an orifice located within the compressor housing. The amount of refrigerant allowed to pass through the orifice in the compressor determines the head pressure which controls the angle of the swashplate, which in turn, determines the amount of compressor displacement. When there is no demand for A/C, the swashplate is adjusted to nearly a zero degree angle, which removes compressor torque drag from the engine.

Is the check engine light on? You might want to bring it in to a dealer and have them try to cycle the A/C compressor with the scan tool.

Yes, the CEL is on, but that's a "Minor EVAP Leak Detected" per the scan, and that comes and goes, plus a new Mopar gas cap didn't correct it. I think the two problems are unrelated, but who knows these days?

I have the car at the little shop down the street from me. They are simply going through the AC system to check components and levels (as well as attach their scanner to it), and once they've finished, they will give me a report, and I'll determine what, if anything, I want to do further.

I was hoping that just getting that compressor attached back to the wiring harness would do the trick, but alas, with Murphy as my guardian angel, that ain't gonna be the case!

UPDATE: I got the car back from the shop, and it is clear that whatever caused the damage to the wiring harness also damaged the condenser and the lower line to the condenser (big friggin holes that once shown to me, I can't believe I missed them!). They gave me the car back (no charge) for me to source those parts and install them, then they'll recharge the system and see what happens next. Or I could write them a $750.00 check and they'd do it. I think I'm capable of this, so I'll start shopping!

Thanks to all for the help thus far! The saga continues!