Re: Spring Relocation
[Re: dart69bigblock]
#1246591
06/07/12 11:51 AM
06/07/12 11:51 AM
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Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 15,119 85086
moparpollack
Lil Herman
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Lil Herman
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 15,119
85086
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How big of a tire and wheel do you want to run? Cars like my 67 coronet and 70 dart need these kits because of th wheel well openings and tubs. However a roadrunner can get a huge tire in the wheel well without modification.
56 Plaza 63 D100 step side 67 Coronet, 68 Roadrunner, 69 Super Bees, 69 Coronet 500 convertible, 70 Roadrunner Post, 79 D150 360, and a severe case of Mopar a,d,d
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Re: Spring Relocation
[Re: moparpollack]
#1246592
06/07/12 12:25 PM
06/07/12 12:25 PM
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Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 8,882 Ontario, Canada
Stanton
Don't question me!
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Don't question me!
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 8,882
Ontario, Canada
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With the right offset you can fit a 10" wheel back there with an appropriately sized tire. But some people like the look of a deep wheel which means narrowing the rear end as opposed to moving the springs. If you want bigger than a 10" wheel then you need to move the springs AND mini tub the car. However, most inboard kits or even do-it-yourselfers have the stock spring hole if only for the purpose of proper alignment when intalling the boxes. Go into the tech archives, there is a complete "how-to" with photos in there. Ride height is determined by the tire and the spring arch.
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Re: Spring Relocation
[Re: Joe Dokes]
#1246594
06/07/12 07:01 PM
06/07/12 07:01 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,875 communist bloc of new jersey
jamesc
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,875
communist bloc of new jersey
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Quote:
JAMESC,
I noticed that you did your spring relocation on a lift? Where you concerned about body flex and or tweaks. I am thinking of buying a lift but a lot of guys say to do the spring relocation and subframe connectors on jack-stands to mimic the cars weight on the ground.
Did you do anything to minimize distortion?
Regards,
Joe Dokes
Joe, the car is completely stripped/empty basically just a shell. the only additional weight that could be removed is the doors and glass. i seriously doubt any flex would occur and judging by the measurements and what i've seen i don't see any problem. the car was also leveled as best possible front to back/side to side (using aluminum shims between the lift and car) using a digital protractor that reads to .01°. i'm guessing most people end up doing this on a basically complete car. this one as it sits is probably lighter by about 2000# so there's no real weight to bend anything. even still i put a stand under the back of the car before i cut the frame rails out. also the lift/car was not moved at all once it was leveled, the rails cut until the boxes were well tacked in. once that was done the car could be raised and lowered to make welding easier. personally i don't see that doing it on stands would be any better, the only improvement would be doing it on a jig table which i don't consider necessary.
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