I have been just using chromoly rod ends, they seem to hold up the best and I also have some out pace stuff on my car too, it has a grease zerk on the swedge tube and the rod end has a hole in them to allow grease to the ball. Messy though. Seals it makes a seal for rod ends, but they dont take high misalignment very well
Now cyrogenically freezing them, sounds neat. and how warm do you get the teflon lined stuff to heat treat it, I know it doesnt like hot, like 500+ degrees hot.

i have them...but mostly i just wanted adjust-ability to correct castor issues.
cheapst

I guess I was hoping people would ask how much and how long to get them...my mistake.
I can do them for right around $175. Should have a definite price early next week. Thanks to everyone whose given input!

Nice work
I am using the RMS adj strut rods.
For me it's not about price as much as did you build a better mouse trap than the ones I am currently using.

As far as the do they work?? Yes they work well and every car should have them as they improve the ride, the handling and the braking.

What we really need right now is a "bolt in" monte carlo bar-shock tower and firewall brace.
The person allegedly making these right now has a less than honorable rep so there are none to purchase.

Thanks for the input Tom. I would not call them "better" than what RMS is selling. I do believe they are stronger in tension and compression, but by no means are the RMS units going to fail. These are probably slightly lighter than RMS pieces as well, but not enough to worry about for most people.
I am curious about this idea you mention of a "monte carlo" bar and firewall brace. Any pictures of what youre referring to? I have plans this coming week to make up a subframe connector with a little different twist on it than usual...we'll see if I can make it work. Send me some pictures of this bar youre referring to and maybe I can come up with something similar.
Thanks

ok mustang picture, but the idea is the same
triangle shaped

there is/was a person making these for mopars but there are alleged issues with delivery, money, reputation.

Criteria:
bolts in with the fender bolts & hole[s]drilled on on the firewall
fits six packs and 4 bbls
removable for maintenance

I suspect that contraption is an improvement, especially over nothing, that "ox bow" crosspiece is likely almost useless IMO, obviously not easy to solve, but if that was my solution, I would not bother.

I made the triangle brace for my 70 Challenger years ago. I made it out of 3/4" black iron pipe. Looks kinda crude because I didnt put much time in it because I first wanted to see if it made a difference, and it did. I made them kinda like the ones from the factory on the later models only bigger diameter and put them down the fenders to the next bolt so I could put a cross bar in and miss the aircleaner.

I see what you mean now Tom...thanks for the pictures. I will look into these. Having trouble staying motivated when there are a bunch of guys who are "in" on something, then when they are actually produced, everyone crawls under the shell and all of the sudden isnt interested anymore. I realize its part of business, but it gets annoying. Patience I guess...
Thanks again for the input.

Try to make it so that big bow in the transfers bar isn't there, make it as straight as possible. I personaly like the idea of a 3 piece system. That way when you're working on just one side of the engine bay, you can get away with taking out just one bar and not have to mess with the whole assembly.

As far as the engine compartment brace goes I think the market is ready for this. Not everyone has a welder and the cars really need the help.
The mustang guys use the concept with great success on their road course street cars. Very similar cars.

Lot's of mustang/camaro folks have street cars that get driven on the track. Many of the cars in my driving school event are driven to the track, however I am usually the only mopar...

One suggestion, probably not the choice for a sellable product but if your building a Monte Carlo brace for yourself some Ford guys are incorporating ID tube clamps to make R&R quick & easy.... These come from the 4x4 world to allow roll cages to be removable yet retain strength.... Available in many sizes....

Just looked over the Valiant a little bit...looks like with A/C, the bar would need to be about 2" behind the fan shroud...not a bad thing I guess. This would allow the bar to be straight. Problem I see is where to attach it to the firewall. Passenger side has a fairly nice flat area, but the driver side with brake booster and wiper motor doesnt leave any great places to attach the tubes to.
I like the idea of having the side bars removable, but it will drive the cost up as one would expect. Also, a solid welded piece would be stronger and have less give to it, than if heim joints or clevis' were used. I think the best "happy medium", would be to have flat tabs on the brackets that bolt to the car. Then in the end of the tubes, would be a weld-in clevis that would slide over the tabs on the fenders and firewall, with bolts to secure them. Only issue then is making sure the tabs are "clocked" correctly so that the clevis' will go over them.
Let me know your thoughts about the firewall mounting...I'll see if I can get something going. I have an idea for some "super-duper" subframe connectors that I am going to try to work on this week. They will tie into the rear subframe like all, but then pass through T-bar crossmember, then bend up and tie into the front frame rails. Hopefully not interfering with any tire clearance issues. I cannot believe the amount of flex the front end of these cars have...its rediculous.
Back to the strut rod thread...

These bars are a huge benefit to Mustang crew because their coil springs sit on top of the upper control arm and directly transmit deflection into the inner fender area. Without them they have a lot of problems with bent front stubs and ill fitting hoods.

The monte carlo bar isn't a bad idea for a product for mopars, although the benefit is not as big in our cars. There is some retail demand out there for them, but the big variable in making them is that they will need to fit the particular body styles with any particular engine, induction, ignition, and other optional items. Additionally, finding a stout enough bracing point on the firewall to locate the triangle is a big deal too as a plate sitting on sheetmetal really isn't a huge benefit to rigidity, even if the bar is triangulated.

Dump the Heim joints, and get something like the currie Jonny joints, fully rebuildable and they are greaseable. Also if you do the Montecarlo bar, just please make sure it fits more than 1 car. Many of our cars have enough variables that some loose tolerances in the manufacturing of them would help things fit together. Tim

Heims are rebuildable, unscrew them, throw them away and screw new ones on. You can replace both sides for the cost of one johnny joint.

I agree with cageman...Im not really a fan of the Johnny Joints...they are expensive for one, and absolutely HUGE...I doubt they would even fit into the hole in the K-member.