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Should we have Suspension Modification Register?
#1156358
01/13/12 01:49 PM
01/13/12 01:49 PM
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 23,694
Here
jcc
OP
No soup for you!!!
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OP
No soup for you!!!
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 23,694
Here
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Entry/Update Date: Model: Year: Weight: Dry, Wet w/driver Application: Show, Daily Driver, Drag, Autocross, Track, Race Engine Package briefly: Estimate HP: FW or RWHP Trans: Speeds:Gears: RE Ratio: RE Type: Sure Grip, Detroit, Spool, Open Front Tire Size Brand Model: Front Rim width: Rear tire Size Brand Model: Rear Rim Width: Aftermarket Front End brand: TB Dia: Coil Rate: Front Shocks: Front Sway bar Dia:Rear Leaf Suspension Model Rate: Shocks: Rear Sway bar Dia:Front Brakes: Rotor Dia Width: Caliper-Pistons: Cooling Ducts: Rear Brakes:Drum Size Dia Width: Rotor Dia: Rotor width: Caliper- Pistons :Parking Brake: Dual Circuit Dia MC: Chassis: Subframe Connectors: Torque Boxes: Roll bar, Roll Cage: Aftermarket stiffeners: Comments:1. Best above improvement:2. Least effective above improvement 3. Next improvement 4. Above car handles IMO on a 1-10 ( 10 best Z06, 1 yugo):
Add a picture here.
I'm just throwing this idea out there. This is not the post for, mainly IMO how we would set it up. So slam away.
Anyway, unlike the competitive 1/4 mile, roundy crowd, corner guys seem to have no aversion to sharing there knowledge, discoveries, and modifications, likely since few of us line up against each other.
So I would think it would extremely helpful and
efficient if we had a "standard" template/format to list our chassis mods, car, etc. I would think we start an "official post" for each category for a bodies, B Bodies, C bodies, E bodies, Others, late models, etc.
Below are items I would like to know :
Entry/Update Date:
Model:
Year:
Application: Show, Hobby, daily Driver, 1/4 mile, Mixed, Track days, Road Race, Autocross
Engine: (Briefly)
Estimate HP:
Trans
Gears
RA Ratio
Sure Grip Spool Detroit
Front Tire Size Brand Model
Front Rim width
Rear tire Size Brand Model
Rear Rim Width
Front TB Dia
Aftermarket Front End brand
Coil Rate
Front Shocks
ADj Setting Rebound Compression
Front Sway bar Dia
Urethane bushing where?
UCA OEM or aftermarket manufacturer?
TR OEM, 11/16
LCA Reinforcement?
Caster
Camber
Toe
Rear Leaf Suspension Model Rate
Aftermarket Suspension
Shocks
Adj Setting Rebound Compression
Rear Sway bar Dia
Front Brakes OEM
Aftermarket Brand Pad
Rotor Dia Width
Caliper Pistons
Cooling Ducts
Rear Brakes OEM
Drum Size Dia Width
Aftermarket Brand Pad
Rotor Dia Width
Caliper
Parking Brake OEM None Other
MC OEM Manual Power
Dual Circuit Dia
Aftermarket MC
Proportioning Valve OEM Aftermarket Adj
Brake Fluid DoT 3, 4, 5, 5.1 Other ,Brand
Chassis OEM
Subframe Connectors Welded Bolted
Torque Boxes
Roll bar, Roll Cage
Aftermarket stiffeners
Comments:
1. Best above improvement:
2. Least effective above improvement
3. Next improvement Likely
4. Above car handles IMO on a 1-10 ( 10 best Z06, 1 yugo):
5. My satisfaction with handing of above car 1-10
Other comments:
Well what do you think? Too soon? 
So if you think this has merit make your changes and additions and post below, if we get a consensus, we can start this and have at it. I guess it goes without saying that one car per post, and everyone should free to update their specs and redate their post so others cab follow along. 
Last edited by jcc; 01/17/12 06:30 PM.
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Re: Should we have Suspension Mod Register?
[Re: A57_RT ]
#1156361
01/13/12 02:03 PM
01/13/12 02:03 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,598
So Cal
autoxcuda
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,598
So Cal
|
 ENGINE •SHORT BLOCK: ‘69 340 block, now .030 over. Scat cast crank kit from Brian @Indio Motor and Machine. •BLOCK MODS: Oil passages smoothed and ported to reduce turbulence/cavitation and help flow. Valley smoothed and cleaned up to help oil drain-back. Water jackets/passages meticulously picked clean of rust and slag. •OIL PUMP: Melling high volume. Passages smoothed and matched to rear main cap. •HEADS: Edlebrock. Ported, intake and exhaust matched, combustion chambers matched to block, •VALVE COVERS: Old Cal Custom finned ($40 swap meet) with steel core MP gaskets for good no leak and removable seal •CAM: Comp 274S soild. .502/.511, 236/242 @.050 •ROCKERS: Comp Pro Magnum steel rollers. •INTAKE: Mopar M1 Single plane, changed to squared carb flange, cleaned up plenum, port matched. •CARB: Demon Silver Claw 750 cfm advertised. Firesleeve on pump to carb 3/8" fuel lines •FUEL LINE: 3/8" sender and 3/8" body fuel line. Firesleeve near headers. •IGNITION: MSD E-Curve distributor •OIL PAN: Milodon Road Race/Pro Touring pan developed by Milodon from this project! •Windage Tray: Milodon with Milodon main stud kit •BOLTS AND STUDS: Milodon Made in USA all in house. Heads, Mains, Oil Pan COOLING SYSTEM: •WATER PUMP: Milodon aluminum •RADIATOR: Champion 4 core •CLAMPS: ABA brand hose clamps. Smooth inner liner with flare edges that don't dig into hose. •T-STAT: Milodon brass 160 degree •FAN CLUTCH: Hayden #2765 (short 3 5/16" mounting) •FAN : MP shortened •FLUID: Distilled water, 2 bottles Justice Brothers Radiator Cooling System Protectant with water pump lubricant, 1 bottle Justice Brother Super Radiator Cooler EXHAUST •HEADERS: TTI for ground clearance. Port matched then ceramic coated outside, thremal barrier coating inside. Best quality. •EXHAUST: TTI X-pipe with Super Turbos 2 1/2" and TTI Baracuda stainless tips (not shown in pics below) TRANSMISSION •TRANS: 727 Torqueflite, TCI shift kit, Type F fluid, will hold gear, can downshift, bang-screech •SHIFTER: Worn beat-up B & M Quicksilver that came with car, ratchet action, sometimes a pain •CONVERTER: 2600 stall and fins modded to get some engine braking. •TRANS COOLER: All hard lines. 10x6". REAR END •REAR END: 8 ¾ Sure Grip 3.23:1 BODY •WEIGHT: 3350 lbs without driver and old motor with steel rims on a Grain Scale. Be careful referencing to cars that have not been on a scale •COUPE BODY STYLE: less rear flex, less weight , less weight in rear ( good and bad ), A body Cuda's have very good tire clearences all the way around as compared to other A bodies. •Future plans: Battery relocated to rear, ABS plastic front air dam modified from another car. SUSPENSION •TORSION BARS: 1.14" 320 Lb./ft wheel rate stock .87" 109 Lb./ft, livable, pretty stiff, Hotchkis shocks were key to taming them. •REAR SPRINGS: Hotchkis. Weigh less that stock. •FRONT SWAY BAR: Hotchkis 1 1/4" hollow •REAR SWAY BAR: Hotchkis adjustable ¾" dia. hollow •SHOCKS: Hotchkis Bilstiens •STRUT RODS: Hotchkis tubular with heim ends. Precision articulation. Can set for nice bind-free LCA up and down movement. Holds poly LCA bushing against K-frame •A-ARMS: Hotckis Tubular. Able to dial in any caster desired. •SUBFRAME CONNECTORS: Hotchkis •73-76 K-member: reinforced •STEERING STEERING GEAR: Replacement Mopar remanufactured. Large steering gear spline, crisp, firmer, but not Firm Feel •PITMAN, IDLER, CENTERLINK: all ‘73-‘76 A-body, to accept large spline gear, Moog parts •POWER STEERING PUMP: Saginaw with rear oriface drilled out 1/64 larger. The other Mopar pump will not keep up with rapid steering input and are generally poor. •POWER STEERING FLUID: Justice Brothers heavy duty, don't change often, so extra cost is cheap assurance •POWER STEERING CAP: later style multi knobbed style with rubber baffle to stop spitting up. •Future plans: Adding factory power steering cooler, in-line filter, and braided lines for power steering . BRAKES •PADS: Discontinued Mopar Police Spec Semi Metalic units ($15 swap meet score) •DISKS: 11.75" dia junkyard single piston disks •BRAKE LINES: braided, w/banjo on caliper end for rear caliper placement •BRAKE FLUID: Justice Brothers High Performance Dot 4 •MASTER CYLINDER: Mopar Performance alum. 2 bolt, 1-1/32" bore, firm immediate pedal, feels great, not for your grandma. Started with manual drums. Thicker master cly adapter to adj. pedal height down. Be aware of pushrod length. •PROPORTIONING VALVE: Willwood adjustable, had drum brakes so need some proportioning valve •DRUMS: vented "bell or hat" drums for cooling •REAR AXLES: 4 ½" bolt redrilled pattern •Future plans: AREngineering Brembo 13" dia or similar Willwood, brake ducts WHEELS •15x9 4 1/4" backspace Optima Minilites (needed front fender lipping/bending) 245/50/15 BFG Comp T/A's ZR all around. (That size is totally discontinued) Future plans:17x9 with 275/40/17 all the way around INTERIOR •STEERING WHEEL: LaCarra 15" padded leather, better grip, small dia. gives more responsive feel ($30 never installed swap meet score) •SEATS: Used Toyota Celica GTS increased g’s so need better seats, must race car from drivers side •Future plans: I have one new Scat Pro seat I got for $50 at the swap meet. Would like to find it a mate.  
Last edited by autoxcuda; 01/13/12 02:14 PM.
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Re: Should we have Suspension Mod Register?
[Re: jcc]
#1156363
01/13/12 02:16 PM
01/13/12 02:16 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,598
So Cal
autoxcuda
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,598
So Cal
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Quote:
Can you delete all the specs and just list a blank template others can quote? 
You mean just use the templete specs you made? Like just fill in the sections you provided?
There's some stuff that's not covered there.
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1974 Plymouth Gold Duster, 225 slant six, automatic
[Re: A57_RT ]
#1156364
01/13/12 02:20 PM
01/13/12 02:20 PM
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,445
Sterling Heights, Michigan 483...
daniel_depetro
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,445
Sterling Heights, Michigan 483...
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 Entry/Update Date: #1 / #1 Model: (Gold) Duster Year: 1974 Application (Show, Hobby, daily Driver, 1/4 mile, Mixed, Track days, Road Race, Autocross): Daily driver (in the spring/summer/fall) Engine (Briefly): 225 cubic inch 30 degree slanted six cylinder. Estimated Horsepower & Torque (Crankshaft or Wheel): 105 horsepower & 180 lbs./ft. of torque (OEM Rating for 1974) Transmission: 904 Gears: 3-speed Rear Axle Ratio: 3.55:1 Rear Axle 8-1/4" with 5 x 4.5" bolt pattern Differential: 27 spline Dana/Spicer Trac_Lok clutch type sure-grip Weight: (with or without driver, also note fluid levels) 3,145 lbs. without driver and with the fuel tank & all fluids topped off (I do not have a washer fluid bottle). Front Tire Size, Brand, Model: 165/80R-15" (165R-15") Federal SS-657 Front Rim Width: 4.5" Rear Tire Size, Brand, Model: 255/60R-15" Firestone FireHawk Indy 500 Rear Rim Width: 8.0" Torsion Bar Diameter: .870" Aftermarket Front End Brand: Factory K-member Coil Rate:  Front Shocks: Monroe 'Gas-Matic' for Duster 340 ADj Setting Rebound Compression: Front Sway Bar Diameter: None Urethane Bushing(s) (Locations): Rear leaf spring shackle bushings (TRW). Upper Control Arms (OEM or aftermarket manufacturer?): OEM 1973+ A-body Tie Rods & Ends (OEM, 11/16): Moog standard 1973+ A-body replacement Lower Control Arm Reinforcement? None Caster: Camber: Toe: Rear Leaf Suspension Model Rate: Aftermarket Suspension: 5-1/2 leaf springs Shocks: Monroe 'Gas-Matic' for Duster 340 Adj Setting Rebound Compression: N/A Rear Sway Bar Diameter: None Front Brakes: OEM 1973+ A-body Pad Brand: Wagner semi-metallic premium replacement Rotor Diameter & Width Caliper & Pistons: OEM 1973+ A-body; single piston Cooling Ducts: None Rear Brakes: OEM 1993-98 Jeep Grand Cherokee rear disc Drum Size Diameter & Width: N/A Pad Brand: Wagner semi-metallic premium replacement Rotor Diameter & Width: Caliper & Pistons: OEM 1993-98 Jeep Grand Cherokee rear disc; single piston Parking Brake OEM None Other Eliminated Power Booster (OEM Manual Power): Yes; OEM 1973+ A-body Dual Circuit Diameter: 1-1/8" (I think?) Master Cylinder: Lightweight aluminum 2-bolt design Proportioning Valve (OEM or Aftermarket Adj): OEM 1973+ A-body Brake Fluid (DoT 3, 4, 5, 5.1, Other & Brand): Prestone synthetic DOT 3 Chassis: OEM Subframe Connectors (Welded or Bolted): None Torque Boxes: None Roll Bar or Roll Cage: None Aftermarket Stiffeners: None Comments:1. Best Above Improvement: Handling - The H.D. 5-1/2 leaf springs (which came off of my factory Duster 360 4-speed) General - Gear ratio swap 2. Least Effective Above Improvement: The front tires 3. Next Improvement(s): 2" x 3" x 1/8" subframe connectors (I have), Tuff Wheel steering wheel (I have), Firm Feel Inc. sector support kit, Firm feel Inc. idler arm bushing to bearing upgrade/retrofit kit, larger torsion bars (again), US Car Tool front & rear torque boxes, solid weld all the seams on the K-member, solid weld all the seams on the entire car. 4. Above car handles IMO on a 1-10 (10 = best; Z06, 1 = worst; Yugo): 3.5 5. My satisfaction with handing of above car 1-10 (10 = best; Z06, 1 = worst; Yugo): 7.5 Other comments: My ricer buddies think my car handles like a complete turd, my Mopar buddy thinks it handles pretty sweet compared to his 1973 Road Runner 340 4-speed. I guess it's all relative and can be taken with a grain of salt. This car has some decent weight reduction done to it.
1969 Dodge Super Bee A12 (440 Six Pack, 4-speed, Dana 60 4.10)
1972 Plymouth Road Runner (400, 4-speed, 8.75" 3.23)
1974 Plymouth Duster 360 (360, 4-speed, 8.75" 3.23)
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Re: Should we have Suspension Mod Register?
[Re: jcc]
#1156365
01/13/12 02:39 PM
01/13/12 02:39 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,598
So Cal
autoxcuda
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,598
So Cal
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Entry/Update Date: 1/14/2012
Model: Barracuda Formula S 340 Coupe (notchback)
Year: 1968
Application: Show, Hobby, daily Driver, Mixed, Track days, Autocross
Engine: (Briefly)
Estimate HP: 450 HP 475 TQ
•SHORT BLOCK: ‘69 340 block, now .030 over. Scat cast crank kit from Brian @Indio Motor and Machine.
•BLOCK MODS: Oil passages smoothed and ported to reduce turbulence/cavitation and help flow. Valley smoothed and cleaned up to help oil drain-back. Water jackets/passages meticulously picked clean of rust and slag.
•OIL PUMP: Melling high volume. Passages smoothed and matched to rear main cap.
•HEADS: Edlebrock. Ported, intake and exhaust matched, combustion chambers matched to block,
•VALVE COVERS: Old Cal Custom finned ($40 swap meet) with steel core MP gaskets for good no leak and removable seal
•CAM: Comp 274S soild. .502/.511, 236/242 @.050
•ROCKERS: Comp Pro Magnum steel rollers.
•INTAKE: Mopar M1 Single plane, changed to squared carb flange, cleaned up plenum, port matched.
•CARB: Demon Silver Claw 750 cfm advertised. Firesleeve on pump to carb 3/8" fuel lines and Firesleeve near headers. 3/8" line to tank.
•EXHAUST: TTI 1 3/4" stepped headers, X-pipe, full TTI to tips.
•IGNITION: MSD E-Curve distributor
•OIL PAN: Milodon Road Race/Pro Touring pan developed by Milodon from this project!
•Windage Tray: Milodon with Milodon main stud kit
COOLING SYSTEM:
•CLAMPS: ABA brand hose clamps. Smooth inner liner with flare edges that don't dig into hose.
•FLUID: Distilled water, 2 bottles Justice Brothers Radiator Cooling System Protectant with water pump lubricant, 1 bottle Justice Brother Super Radiator Cooler
Trans: 727 shift kit
Gears: stock
RE Ratio: 3.23:1
RE Type: Sure Grip
Front Tire Size Brand Model: 245/50/15 BFG Comp T/A
Front Rim width: 9"
Rear tire Size Brand Model: 245/50/15 BFG Comp T/A
Rear Rim Width: 9"
Front TB Dia: 1.12"
Aftermarket Front End brand: Hotchkis TVS
•TORSION BARS: 1.14" 320 Lb./ft wheel rate Hotchkis shocks were key to taming them.
•STRUT RODS: Hotchkis tubular with heim ends. Precision articulation. Can set for nice bind-free LCA up and down movement. Holds poly LCA bushing against K-frame
•73-76 K-member: reinforced
•STEERING STEERING GEAR: Replacement Mopar remanufactured. Large steering gear spline, crisp, firmer, but not Firm Feel
•PITMAN, IDLER, CENTERLINK: all ‘73-‘76 A-body, to accept large spline gear, Moog parts
•POWER STEERING PUMP: Saginaw with rear oriface drilled out 1/64 larger. The other Mopar pump will not keep up with rapid steering input and are generally poor.
•POWER STEERING FLUID: Justice Brothers heavy duty
•POWER STEERING CAP: later style multi knobbed style with rubber baffle to stop spitting up.
•Future plans: Adding factory power steering cooler, in-line filter, and braided lines for power steering
Coil Rate: NOPE
Front Shocks: Hotchkis Bilstein RCD
ADj Setting Rebound Compression: No
Front Sway bar Dia: 1 1/2"? Hotchkis
Urethane bushing where? All where applicable
UCA OEM or aftermarket manufacturer? Hotchkis
TR OEM, 11/16: Hotchkis
LCA Reinforcement? Three 1" bridge straps so as not to create more unsprung weight wasting material.
Caster: 5 deg pos
Camber: 1.5 deg neg
Toe: 1 1/32
Rear Leaf Suspension Model Rate: Hotchkis
Aftermarket Suspension: Hotchkis leaf spring with mid eyes, top leaf for brake hop, two supporting lower leaf that go to front eye. Factory front spring hanger because my small dia tires make the car too low for Hotchkis dropped hanger.
Shocks: Hotchkis Bilstein RCD
Adj Setting Rebound Compression: No
Rear Sway bar Dia: Hotchkis 3/4 hollow
Front Brakes: OEM
Aftermarket Brand Pad: Mopar HD Police Spec Metalic
Rotor Dia Width: stock type 12"
Caliper Pistons: Pin type single piston
Cooling Ducts: not yet
Rear Brakes OEM: OEM
Drum Size Dia Width: 10x 1 3/4"
Aftermarket Brand Pad: Raybestos
Parking Brake: OEM MC OEM Manual Power
Dual Circuit Dia
Aftermarket MC: MP 1 1/32 aluminum
Proportioning Valve OEM Aftermarket Adj: Adjustable Willwood
Brake Fluid DoT 3, 4, 5, 5.1 Other ,Brand: Justice Brothers DOT 4
Chassis: OEM
Subframe Connectors: Hotchkis Welded
Torque Boxes: No
Roll bar, Roll Cage: No
Aftermarket stiffeners: No
Comments:
1. Best above improvement: .99 T-bars. Hotchkis Bilstien shocks when I went to 1.12 T-bars.
2. Least effective above improvement
3. Next improvement Likely Right Stuff 13" Front and rear disk Brakes and 17x9 rims with 275/40/17 tires. Brake ducts. 65-67 B-body rear end with oil control improvements. Front air dam/spoiler
4. Above car handles IMO on a 1-10 ( 10 best Z06, 1 yugo): 6-7. My old old hard tires stink. And my brakes are glazed over.
5. My satisfaction with handing of above car 1-10) It's never enough... 7
Other comments:
Last edited by autoxcuda; 01/13/12 03:34 PM.
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Re: Should we have Suspension Mod Register?
[Re: daniel_depetro]
#1156366
01/13/12 02:43 PM
01/13/12 02:43 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,598
So Cal
autoxcuda
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,598
So Cal
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Quote:
...
Other comments:
1974 Plymouth Gold Duster
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There are no suspension or handling mods done to this car. So why list it?
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Re: Should we have Suspension Mod Register?
[Re: autoxcuda]
#1156367
01/13/12 03:06 PM
01/13/12 03:06 PM
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,445
Sterling Heights, Michigan 483...
daniel_depetro
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,445
Sterling Heights, Michigan 483...
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Quote:
...
Other comments:
1974 Plymouth Gold Duster
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Quote:
There are no suspension or handling mods done to this car. So why list it?
My apologies, I didn't realize this was only for people who have $30k+ into aftermarket parts on their car(s).
1969 Dodge Super Bee A12 (440 Six Pack, 4-speed, Dana 60 4.10)
1972 Plymouth Road Runner (400, 4-speed, 8.75" 3.23)
1974 Plymouth Duster 360 (360, 4-speed, 8.75" 3.23)
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Re: Should we have Suspension Mod Register?
[Re: autoxcuda]
#1156369
01/13/12 04:49 PM
01/13/12 04:49 PM
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,445
Sterling Heights, Michigan 483...
daniel_depetro
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,445
Sterling Heights, Michigan 483...
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Quote:
My apologies, for being to harsh. But you didn't list any plans for future suspension mods. I see a baseline but no listed interest in suspension mods.
No need to apologize, I have thick skin. I've been into Mopars for nearly 30 years, and one of my favorites are the 1973-74 Dusters. I also have an interest in the six cylinder cars. Needless to say 6-cyl. later model A-bodies were always the low car on the totem pole so to speak so it's a good thing I could care less about what others think of my cars/interests.
Quote:
You don't need $30K in parts to do mods. What suspension handling mods are you looking to do? What is your budget? You could do a lot for $500. Especially if you hunt for the right used parts like you do.
I did add a few future mods I will be making if that improves things. I will be picking a few things up as the deals present themselves.
I'm not out to set any records or have a track day car. I just want something that handles better than when it was new, keeps the factory appearance, and most importantly retains the overall factory feel and ride quality of the car(s).
1969 Dodge Super Bee A12 (440 Six Pack, 4-speed, Dana 60 4.10)
1972 Plymouth Road Runner (400, 4-speed, 8.75" 3.23)
1974 Plymouth Duster 360 (360, 4-speed, 8.75" 3.23)
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Re: Should we have Suspension Mod Register?
[Re: daniel_depetro]
#1156370
01/13/12 05:36 PM
01/13/12 05:36 PM
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 6,445
Missouri
68KillerBee
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 6,445
Missouri
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Quote:
Quote:
My apologies, for being to harsh. But you didn't list any plans for future suspension mods. I see a baseline but no listed interest in suspension mods.
No need to apologize, I have thick skin. I've been into Mopars for nearly 30 years, and one of my favorites are the 1973-74 Dusters. I also have an interest in the six cylinder cars. Needless to say 6-cyl. later model A-bodies were always the low car on the totem pole so to speak so it's a good thing I could care less about what others think of my cars/interests.
Quote:
You don't need $30K in parts to do mods. What suspension handling mods are you looking to do? What is your budget? You could do a lot for $500. Especially if you hunt for the right used parts like you do.
I did add a few future mods I will be making if that improves things. I will be picking a few things up as the deals present themselves.
I'm not out to set any records or have a track day car. I just want something that handles better than when it was new, keeps the factory appearance, and most importantly retains the overall factory feel and ride quality of the car(s).
 So contradicting and quick to pull the I've been into mopars for x amount of years. Why do people say this all the time, is it like street cred? You want to have the factory feel and ride quality of the car(s), then you are in the wrong section.
I'll come back through this and put my car in when I have some free time so I didn't just add another post to the thread. Mines pretty stock and I think my next big buy will be the front/rear sway bars from Hotchkis. 
Entry/Update Date:
Model: Super Bee
Year: 1968
Weight: Dry, Wet w/driver (dont know)
Application: Show and daily driver when it is nice out. 19k miles since 2006. Hope to bring it out to the track this year 
Engine Package briefly: ~9.5:1 compression 383. .060 over with edelbrock performer 383 intake and a Holley 750 with vacuum advance. Hi-rev electronic ignition ecu. Cam is from pbm..stats: Adv. Dur. .050 Dur
Int 284 218
Exh 284 218
Valve Lift Int. .458 exh .458
Lobe Sep. 110
Estimate HP: 335?
Trans: 23 spline 4 speed
Speeds: frequently 
Gears: 3.55
RE Type: Sure Grip
Front Tire Size Brand Model: 235/60/14 BFG radial t/a
Front Rim width: 6 inches
Rear tire Size Brand Model: 295/50/15 BFG radial t/a
Rear Rim Width: 10 inches
Aftermarket Front End brand: Stock
Front Shocks: autozone special
Front Sway bar Dia: stock
Rear Leaf Suspension Model Rate: stock
Shocks: air shocks 
Rear Sway bar Dia: stock
Front Brakes: 11 inch drums
Rear Brakes: 11 inch drums
Drum Size Dia Width:
Parking Brake: it works
Comments: Basically all a stock rebuild, now working on suspension and brakes. The car hooks really good and I hope to take it to the track this spring. Combination of the big tires out back and cheapo shocks up front seem to be the real reason for it hooking good (or its just not as fast as i think).
1. Best above improvement:
2. Least effective above improvement
3. Next improvement: First major improvement will be front and rear sway bars from Hotchkis. Hope to get that on by spring. Next will be brakes. Dreaming of a 5 speed passon transmission when those come out and then bigger (17inch?) magnum 500's...
4. Above car handles IMO on a 1-10 ( 10 best Z06, 1 yugo): 3 
Last edited by 68Killerbee; 01/18/12 02:52 PM.
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Re: Should we have Suspension Mod Register?
[Re: autoxcuda]
#1156371
01/13/12 05:40 PM
01/13/12 05:40 PM
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 21,345
Marysville, O-H-I-O
70Cuda383
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 21,345
Marysville, O-H-I-O
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Entry/Update Date: 1/14/2012
Model: Dodge Dakota Sport, Regular cab, 2wd
Year: 1998
Application: Fun driving!
Engine: 5.9L Magnum. Stock rebuild bottom end.
Heads shaved .030
1008 fel-pros (.039" vs .054" stock gaskets)
Hughes Whiplash cam 222/228 @ .050, .544 lift, 107LSA
M1 2bbl intake
Edelbrock shorty headers
SCT tune on stock PCM, rest of EFI system is stock
285 hp, 325 tq to the rear wheels
Trans: NV3500 5-spd manual
3.48:1 first gear
2.16:1 second gear
1.40:1 third gear
1:1 fourth gear
.73:1 fifth gear
Hurst short-throw shifter mechanism w B-body pistol grip shifter handle
Gears: stock
RE Ratio: 3.92:1
RE Type: Sure Grip
Front Tire Size Brand Model: 255/55/17 Khumo Ecsta
Front Rim width: 9"
Rear tire Size Brand Model: 255/55/17 Khumo Ecsta
Rear Rim Width: 9"
Aftermarket Front End brand: Hotchkis 2" loweing springs
Coil Rate: around 910? 920? I don't remember
Front Shocks: Beltech street performance shocks for a lowered Dakota
Front Sway bar Dia: 1 1/2" Hotchkis
Rear Leaf Suspension Model Rate: Hotchkis 3" lowering leaf spring
Shocks: Beltech street performance for lowered Dakota
Rear Sway bar Dia: 15/16" Hotchkis
Front Brakes: OEM
Rotor Dia Width: stock type 11"
Caliper Pistons: Pin type single piston
Cooling Ducts: no
Rear Brakes OEM: OEM
Drum Size Dia Width: 10x 1 3/4"
Parking Brake: OEM
Dual Circuit Dia
OEM MC: 15/16" aluminum
Chassis: OEM
Subframe Connectors: NA -- full frame truck
Torque Boxes: No
Roll bar, Roll Cage: No
Aftermarket stiffeners: No
Comments:
1. Best above improvement: Hotchkis sway bars
2. Least effective above improvement Tires. these things are like driving on ice. flat out suck! back end kicks out in 2nd gear all the time. however, these tires are new to me, maybe they're better when its warm out. only driven it while surface temps were 40 or less.
3. Next improvement Viper brakes front and rear: 13" rotors all the way around, 4 piston fixed caliper up front, single piston floating caliper in the rear. (parts sitting in garage, I dont want to install them until I can get a good baseline test of the stock brakes--repeated 60-0 stops measuring distance, fade, temps, etc. to compare the improvements with the Viper parts)
4. Above car handles IMO on a 1-10 ( 10 best Z06, 1 yugo): 7.5 It's easy to forget that it's a 4,000 lb truck with how well it grips through corners.
Last edited by 70Cuda383; 01/13/12 05:44 PM.
**Photobucket sucks**
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Re: Should we have Suspension Mod Register?
[Re: 70Cuda383]
#1156372
01/14/12 12:58 PM
01/14/12 12:58 PM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,123
Seaford Delaware
JSR1485
super stock
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super stock
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,123
Seaford Delaware
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Entry/Update Date: 1/14/2012
Model: 340 Duster H code car
Year: 1970
Application: Driving & possibe Auto Cross
Engine: 360 .030 over Keith black 190 pistons
360 heads 70cc 2.02 intake 1.60 exhaust mild porting
Cam Soild Crane cam 540/560 adv duration 284/294
Comp Steel roller rockers
LD340 intake
Kevco oil pan & pickup 6qt
Hooker headers-3" full exhaust with X pipe
Eagle SIR rods
Mopar Performace HD cast Crank stock stroke
400HP-car went 11.80's as drag car
Trans: Passion Performace A833 street slick shifted 4 speed
Hurst super shifter
Gears: stock Mopar 1969 vintage
RE Ratio: 3.23:1
RE Type: Eaton tru-trac
Front Tire Size Brand Model: 245/50/17 Nitto
Front Rim width: 8"
Rear tire Size Brand Model: 275/50/17 Nitto
Rear Rim Width: 8"
Aftermarket Front End brand: Hotchkis Adjustable strut arms,Magnum force Heim end tubular control arm, 9/16 Firm Feel sleves and tie rod ends ,re-inforced and rewelded K-Frame-Firm Feel greaseable lower control arm pins, .990 torsion bars,
Front Shocks: QA1 12 way adjustable
Front Sway bar Dia: 1 1/2" Hellwig
Rear Leaf Suspension Model Rate: Hotchkis
Shocks: QA1 12 way adjustable
Rear Sway bar Dia: 15/16" Hellwig
Front Brakes: Wilwood
Rotor Dia Width: 11"
Caliper Pistons: 4 piston
Cooling Ducts: no
Rear Brakes Right Stuff -rear disc converson
Drum Size Dia Width: 10" rotor with parking brake
Parking Brake: OEM
Dual Circuit Dia
OEM MC: 15/16" aluminum
Chassis: OEM
Subframe Connectors: Weld in
Torque Boxes: yes
Roll bar, Roll Cage: No
Aftermarket stiffeners: Magnum Force front chassis stiffer kit Comments: Still in progress hoping to have done soon
was transformed from Race car back to street car with all new florr pans.
1. Best above improvement: ?
Switched to the dark side...
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Re: Should we have Suspension Mod Register?
[Re: JSR1485]
#1156373
01/14/12 01:04 PM
01/14/12 01:04 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,598
So Cal
autoxcuda
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,598
So Cal
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Quote:
RE Type: Eaton tru-trac
Can/Have you experianced any noticable differences between a Tru-Trac (Torsen type) diff than a Clutch or Cone type?
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Re: Should we have Suspension Mod Register?
[Re: autoxcuda]
#1156374
01/14/12 02:04 PM
01/14/12 02:04 PM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,123
Seaford Delaware
JSR1485
super stock
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super stock
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,123
Seaford Delaware
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Not yet I am still in progess of building the car I will sure let you know when I drive it
Switched to the dark side...
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Re: Should we have Suspension Mod Register?
[Re: 68KillerBee]
#1156375
01/14/12 02:24 PM
01/14/12 02:24 PM
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,445
Sterling Heights, Michigan 483...
daniel_depetro
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,445
Sterling Heights, Michigan 483...
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Quote:
So contradicting and quick to pull the I've been into mopars for x amount of years. Why do people say this all the time, is it like street cred?
How is that contradicting? It's simply stating fact. It has nothing to do with street cred. Re-read the following sentence after the one you are referring to.
I may not have lived in the "glory years", however I do remember the 1980's - 90's when Mopar guys were the butt end of all the jokes and were a die hard few (and far between).
This was the point I was attempting to make by those sentences you're referencing: It takes a special type of person to be into Mopars, especially back when the aftermarket was very slim pickings.
Even within the small Mopar community it seems that the late A-bodies (as well as some others) have been looked down upon as a lesser car. Throw in a slant six powertrain and somehow you must not be a real muscle car enthusiast.
I've been into some of these non-high performance 'muscle' cars for quite some time. During that time I've heard it all from many sides. I do it because I love it, not to gain the approval of others. If you do not like how I set my car up, tuff nubs.
Quote:
You want to have the factory feel and ride quality of the car(s), then you are in the wrong section.
Fair enough.
1969 Dodge Super Bee A12 (440 Six Pack, 4-speed, Dana 60 4.10)
1972 Plymouth Road Runner (400, 4-speed, 8.75" 3.23)
1974 Plymouth Duster 360 (360, 4-speed, 8.75" 3.23)
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Re: Should we have Suspension Mod Register?
[Re: jcc]
#1156376
01/14/12 06:04 PM
01/14/12 06:04 PM
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Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 4,302
Nebraska
72Swinger
master
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master
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 4,302
Nebraska
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Entry/Update Date:01/14/12
Model:Dart Swinger Special
Year:1972
Application: Show, Hobby, daily Driver, 1/4 mile, Mixed, Track days, Road Race, Autocross all of those with some luck
Engine: (Briefly)451B
Estimate HP:475
Trans Viper T56
Gears
RA Ratio 4.10
Sure Grip Spool Detroit clutch Sure Grip
Front Tire Size 275/35/18 Brand Nitto Model NT555
Front Rim width 18x9
Rear tire Size 335/30/18 Brand Toyo Model RA1
Rear Rim Width 18x10
Front TB Dia .890
Aftermarket Front End brand
Coil Rate
Front Shocks Monroe
ADj Setting Rebound Compression
Front Sway bar Dia 1.5" Hotchkis
Urethane bushing where? Lower CA and swaybar
UCA OEM or aftermarket manufacturer? RMS
TR OEM, 11/16 oem
LCA Reinforcement? Yes
Caster +5.5
Camber -.75
Toe 1/8" in
Rear Leaf Suspension Yes Model Mopar Circle trak +1 Rate 130lb/in?
Aftermarket Suspension
Shocks Monroe
Adj Setting Rebound Compression
Rear Sway bar Dia
Front Brakes OEM tes
Aftermarket Brand Pad
Rotor Dia 11.75 Width
Caliper Oem Pistons
Cooling Ducts someday
Rear Brakes OEM yes
Drum Size Dia 11" Width 2"
Aftermarket Brand Pad
Rotor Dia Width
Caliper
Parking Brake OEM None Other
MC OEM Manual Power 15/16 Dr Diff
Dual Circuit Dia
Aftermarket MC
Proportioning Valve OEM Aftermarket Adj oem
Brake Fluid DoT 3, 4, 5, 5.1 Other ,Brand Valvoline dot 4
Chassis OEM
Subframe Connectors Welded Bolted Welded
Torque Boxes
Roll bar, Roll Cage
Aftermarket stiffeners Rad support, fender braces
Comments:
1. Best above improvement: Hotchkis swaybar
2. Least effective above improvement
3. Next improvement Likely Bilstein shocks and bigger tbars and rear swaybar
4. Above car handles IMO on a 1-10 ( 10 best Z06, 1 yugo):6.5
5. My satisfaction with handing of above car 1-10 5
Other comments:Flmaing River manual 16:1 box, glass hood,valance and scoop.
Mopar to the bone!!!
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Re: Should we have Suspension Mod Register?
[Re: 70Cuda383]
#1156377
01/14/12 10:09 PM
01/14/12 10:09 PM
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 23,694
Here
jcc
OP
No soup for you!!!
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OP
No soup for you!!!
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 23,694
Here
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Entry/Update Date:
Model:
Year:
Weight: Dry, Wet w/driver
Application: Show, Daily Driver, Drag, Autocross, Track, Race
Engine Package briefly:
Estimate HP: FW or RWHP
Trans:
Speed:
Gears:
RE Ratio:
RE Type: Sure Grip, Detroit, Spool, Open
Front Tire Size Brand Model:
Front Rim width:
Rear tire Size Brand Model:
Rear Rim Width:
Aftermarket Front End brand:
Coil Rate:
Front Shocks:
Front Sway bar Dia:
Rear Leaf Suspension Model Rate:
Shocks:
Rear Sway bar Dia:
Front Brakes:
Rotor Dia Width:
Caliper-Pistons:
Cooling Ducts:
Rear Brakes :
Drum Size Dia Width:
Rotor Dia:
Rotor width :[/b}
[b} Caliper- Pistons :
Parking Brake:
Dual Circuit Dia MC:
Chassis:
Subframe Connectors:
Torque Boxes:
Roll bar, Roll Cage:
Aftermarket stiffeners:
Comments:
1. Best above improvement:
2. Least effective above improvement
3. Next improvement
4. Above car handles IMO on a 1-10 ( 10 best Z06, 1 yugo):
I'm with Helmuth Hübener, and no soup is being served today.
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Re: Should we have Suspension Mod Register?
[Re: jcc]
#1156378
01/15/12 02:11 PM
01/15/12 02:11 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,407
Pikes Peak Country
TC@HP2
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,407
Pikes Peak Country
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Entry/Update Date Jan 15, 2012 Model: Satellite Year: 1967 Weight: 3250, w driver 1/4 tank of gas, all fluids Application: Occasionaly drove it on the road, but it also drag raced. Never tried dodging cones with it. Engine Package briefly: 360, balanced, blueprinted, high swirl heads, too much cam. Estimate HP: 400 FW HP at sea level. At my altitude, much much less. Trans: 727 auto Speed: Never top ended it. It would run the quarter @ 115 Gears:stock 727 RE Ratio: 4:89, 4:56, 3:23 RE Type: spool for the 4 series, Sure grip for the 3s. Front Tire Size Brand Model: 255/50x16 Goodyear Gatorbacks Front Rim width: 8" Rear tire Size Brand Model: 255/50x16 Goodyear Gatorbacks Rear Rim Width: 8" Aftermarket Front End brand: stock layout Coil Rate: .96 t-bar, aprox 160# Front Shocks: Mopar Oval track (carrera) Front Sway bar Dia: 1.125" Rear Leaf Suspension Model Rate: stock layout, XHD style, 160# Shocks: Mopar Oval track (carrera) Rear Sway bar Dia: none Front Brakes: OEM style Rotor Dia Width: 11.75" Caliper-Pistons: OEM iron single pot Cooling Ducts: none Rear Brakes : OEM style Drum Size Dia Width: 10x3 drums Rotor Dia:Rotor width : Caliper- Pistons :Parking Brake: Dual Circuit Dia MC: 1 1/32, 70/30 split Chassis: OEM Subframe Connectors: 1x2 bolt in style that were welded Torque Boxes: no Roll bar, Roll Cage: no Aftermarket stiffeners: Comments: Firm Feel box with fast ratio arms. 1. Best above improvement: Sway bars, sub frame connectors 2. Least effective above improvement: considering the changes from original, nothing disappointed. 3. Next improvement: None, I sold the car years ago. 4. Above car handles IMO on a 1-10 ( 10 best Z06, 1 yugo): I'd give it a 7. I built this in the early 90s. It felt comparable to a Porsche 924 or a mid 80s Vette. Unfortunatly there was not much focus on handling cars back then, so I never bothered to try an open track day or autocross. It was only registered for a short time, so my street experience with it was limited. I ended up running it on the drag strip more than anything else and that gave me a very unique persective of handling set ups vs drag set ups and some of the actual give and take of the differences and their impact Here is is with the drag tires on it at Bandimere. 
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Re: Should we have Suspension Mod Register?
[Re: TC@HP2]
#1156379
01/15/12 02:29 PM
01/15/12 02:29 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,407
Pikes Peak Country
TC@HP2
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,407
Pikes Peak Country
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Entry/Update Date: Jan 15, 2012 Model: Satellite Year: 1971 Weight: Wet w/driver 3500, with driver, full fuel load Application: race Engine Package briefly: 318 Estimate HP: Geez, like maybe 200, sea level Trans: 727 auto Speed: never fast enough Gears:Stock 727 RE Ratio: 3:55 RE Type: Sure Grip Front Tire Size Brand Model: Goodyear, 26x12 race slick Front Rim width: 15x10 Rear tire Size Brand Model: Goodyear 26x12 race slick Rear Rim Width: 15x10 Aftermarket Front End brand: OEM Coil Rate: very few notes form this time, I'd guess .92" 130# Front Shocks: Monroe Gas Front Sway bar Dia: 1" Rear Leaf Suspension Model Rate: stock leafs, 120# Shocks: Monroe gas Rear Sway bar Dia: na Front Brakes: stock discs 10.75" Rotor Dia Width: 10.75" Caliper-Pistons: OEM iron single pot Cooling Ducts: yes Rear Brakes : stock drum Drum Size Dia Width: 11x3 Rotor Dia:Rotor width : Caliper- Pistons :Parking Brake: Dual Circuit Dia MC: stock Chassis: OEM Subframe Connectors: yes, 3x3 fabbed Torque Boxes: no Roll bar, Roll Cage: bolt in four post cage Aftermarket stiffeners: Comments: Boy was I young and naive. I never knew you got paid to drive race cars until one day when I pulled in the gate and they handed me a check from the previous weekend. After that I was hooked. 1. Best above improvement: Racing seat. Nothign better to hold you in place. 2. Least effective above improvement The big stinking tires. Too much rubber for the application. 3.Next improvement 4. Above car handles IMO on a 1-10 ( 10 best Z06, 1 yugo): I'd give it a 5. I wasn't dead last but tended to be towards the rear of the pack. Built in the early 80s, it was my first "handling" experience. Granted, it predominately turned left, but it was my first forray in to a car that didn't just go in a straight line. I beat the tar out of it and by the end of the year, decided to throw it away and build a new one, it was that rough. In hind sight, it wasn't as bad as others I've seen, but in 1983 you could buy these cars for a few hundred bucks so why put out the effort to fix it. 
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Re: Should we have Suspension Mod Register?
[Re: TC@HP2]
#1156380
01/15/12 02:38 PM
01/15/12 02:38 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,407
Pikes Peak Country
TC@HP2
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,407
Pikes Peak Country
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Entry/Update Date: Jan 15, 2012 Model: Satellite Year: 1972 Weight: Wet w/driver and fuel 3500# Application: Race Engine Package briefly: 400 Estimate HP: maybe 300 Trans: 727 auto Speed: dunno Gears: RE Ratio: 3:55 RE Type: Sure Grip Front Tire Size Brand Model: 28x8, recap race tires Front Rim width: 15x8 wagon wheels Rear tire Size Brand Model: 28x8, recap race tires Rear Rim Width : 15x8 wagon wheels Aftermarket Front End brand: nope, it was stock Coil Rate: 1" torsion bars, 175# Front Shocks: Monroe gas Front Sway bar Dia: 1" Rear Leaf Suspension Model Rate: OEM 120# Shocks: Monroe gas Rear Sway bar Dia: na Front Brakes: disc Rotor Dia Width: 11.75 Caliper-Pistons: OEM Cooling Ducts: yes Rear Brakes : OEM Drum Size Dia Width: 11x3 Rotor Dia: Rotor width : Caliper- Pistons : Parking Brake: Dual Circuit Dia MC: stock Chassis: OEM Subframe Connectors: Yes, 3x3 custom Torque Boxes: no Roll bar, Roll Cage: bolt in four post cage Aftermarket stiffeners: Comments: Discovered tall sprindles were faster. 1. Best above improvement: gas shocks. Monroe just released these and compared to the old oil shocks, they were great! 2. Least effective above improvement Needed more roll resistance. 3. Next improvement Didn't get to tinker much after this year because of changes in my personal life. Parted the car out at season's end 4. Above car handles IMO on a 1-10 ( 10 best Z06, 1 yugo): I'd go 7 on this one. This is a different car than the previous one. Built a year later, I started to get into the meat of the subject and started experimenting with different parts. Ran much faster, handled much better, and actually began to win races. However, after the local track closed, I sold off the good parts, scraped the rest, and quit racing for a few years. When I returned to an oval in the early 90s, I defected to GM and Ford products because mopar prices were stupid high for a car that was going to get shredded on a regular basis. However, that gave me some insight to pro/cons of the moapr set up vs the popular GM and Ford set ups seen around today. Picture taken in front of the local dragstrip tower which adjoined the oval track. 
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Re: Should we have Suspension Mod Register?
[Re: TC@HP2]
#1156381
01/15/12 03:04 PM
01/15/12 03:04 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,407
Pikes Peak Country
TC@HP2
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,407
Pikes Peak Country
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Entry/Update Date: Jan 15, 2012 Model: Challenger Year: 1974 Weight: 3650 or so, its been a while since I scaled it. More than I'd like it to have, in any case. Application: Driver, Drag, Autocross, Track Engine Package briefly: 360, with as much compression as I can get away with Estimate HP: 400-425 FW, sea level rating Trans: 833 4 spd Speed: Dunno yet Gears: stock four speed RE Ratio: 3:55 RE Type: Sure Grip Front Tire Size Brand Model: M/T SR 26x10x15 Front Rim width: 15x8 Rear tire Size Brand Model: M/T SR 26x12x15 Rear Rim Width: 15x10 Aftermarket Front End brand: OEM Coil Rate: 1.22 t-bars, 400# rate Front Shocks: Varishock aluminum body twin tube single adjustable Front Sway bar Dia: 1.125 Rear Leaf Suspension Model Rate: Mopar zero arch oval track, 120# moved in 1" per side with a 67 B body rear housing Shocks: Varishock aluminum body twin tube single adjustable Rear Sway bar Dia: 1" axle hung version Front Brakes: disc Rotor Dia Width: 11.75"x1" Caliper-Pistons: Currently single pot stock. I've got the brackets for Wilwoods, just need to swap em over. Cooling Ducts: Yes, front and rear Rear Brakes : finned drum Drum Size Dia Width: 10x2.5 Rotor Dia: Rotor width : Caliper- Pistons : Parking Brake: stock Dual Circuit Dia MC: 1 1/32 70/30 split, manual Chassis: mostly stock Subframe Connectors: Yes, home built, 2x3 and 2x2 tapered to run under the floor board, Xed from corner to corner. Still under construction. Exhaust pass throughs are a pain to figure out. Torque Boxes: Yes Roll bar, Roll Cage: no Aftermarket stiffeners: Home fabbed versions of the XV front end stiffening system being fabbed in. Comments: Firm Feel box, fast ratio arms, bump steer spacers being used. Working on adapting some chevy tubular upper A arms to give me more caster/camber/ackerman/anti-dive options. 1. Best above improvement: 2. Least effective above improvement 3. Next improvement 4. Above car handles IMO on a 1-10 ( 10 best Z06, 1 yugo): Still under construction with zero road time. Here it is in its last on road appearance. Its much uglier now. 
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Re: Should we have Suspension Mod Register?
[Re: jcc]
#1156382
01/16/12 12:54 AM
01/16/12 12:54 AM
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Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 18,493
Granite Bay CA
Kern Dog
Striving for excellence
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Striving for excellence
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 18,493
Granite Bay CA
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My car:
1970 Charger R/T clone
3850 lbs plus driver
Street/Show/Spirited driving
440 based 493 stroker, Edelbrock heads, MP cam, TTI headers, Demon 850 carb. HP unknown
727 with 3000 stall converter, soon to have Gear Vendors Overdrive unit
8 3/4" axle, narrowed 1 1/2" 4.10 power Lok Sure Grip
Wheels and tires: Intro wheels, 18x9 with 4 3/4 BS, Nitto 555 275-40-18 Front, 18x10 with 4 3/4" BS, 295-45-18 Rear.
Rebuilt front suspension, Poly bushings except LCA (OEM rubber replacements) Stock K member. Addco 1 1/8" front sway bar. 1" Torsion bars. KYB Gas-a-just shocks. Boxed LCAs. Fast Ratio Idler and Pitman arms. 12" Cordoba disc brakes with slider calipers. Semi Metallic pads.
Stock floorpans without frame connectors or torque boxes.
MP HD leaf springs with HD shackles, poly bushings. Addco 7/8" sway bar. KYB gas-a-just shocks. Dr Diff disc kit using 10.7" rotors and Mustang calipers. MP sealed, non adjustable axle bearings.
When I bought the car, the running gear, suspension and steering were all in totally stock condition. After I painted it, I did nearly all of the upgrades at the same time. The rear discs look great but I didn't notice much of a braking improvement over the 10" drums. Maybe I would have if I hammered the car more! The fast ratio arms were a huge difference. It went from 3 1/2 turns to just over 2 1/2 lock to lock. Effort increased. The steering simply reacted faster.
Last edited by Frankenduster; 02/26/12 04:27 AM.
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Re: Should we have Suspension Mod Register?
[Re: autoxcuda]
#1156383
01/18/12 09:19 PM
01/18/12 09:19 PM
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 21,345
Marysville, O-H-I-O
70Cuda383
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 21,345
Marysville, O-H-I-O
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Quote:
Quote:
RE Type: Eaton tru-trac
Can/Have you experianced any noticable differences between a Tru-Trac (Torsen type) diff than a Clutch or Cone type?
yes. i LOVE the tru--trac diffs. I had one in my big block truck. it's now in a buddy's Dakota.
When there is no load on the tires, they act like an open diff. infact, if you jack the rear up in the air, the wheels will rotate oposite of each other! you can jack up just one wheel, leaving the other on the ground, and the wheel in the air will turn.
when both tires have traction it locks them up tight and evenly.
what does this mean while driving?
one wheel in the mud on the side of the road, and one on the pavement? it's going to act like an open and might leave you stuck.
wet roads, while going around a corner, if your tires are slippery, the unit acts like an open, and prevents you from getting "tail happy" when you don't want to.
dry pavement, it will lock up and send power to each wheel evenly.
honestly it's the best of both worlds.
and if you find yourself where you WANT to "lock it up" when it won't, like if you're one wheel off the road stuck in mud or something, then drag the brakes with your left foot, it creates enough torque resistance to lock up the diff, and get you un-stuck.
**Photobucket sucks**
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Re: Should we have Suspension Modification Register?
[Re: jcc]
#1156386
01/27/12 07:33 PM
01/27/12 07:33 PM
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 10,645
Houston, Tx
AlexP
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 10,645
Houston, Tx
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Entry/Update Date: 1/27/2012 Model: Roadrunner Year: 1968 Weight: Dry, Wet w/driver 3600lb Est. Application: Show, Daily Driver, Drag, Autocross, Track, Race. Everything except for show  Engine Package briefly: 440, then a 383 and now a 6.1 based Hemi (Building currently) Estimate HP: FW or RWHP Trans: 23-Spline 833 Gears: 4 RE Ratio: 3.54 RE Type: SG Clutch type Front Tire Size Brand Model: Yokohama Avid S/T 255/60/15 Front Rim width: 7" Rear tire Size Brand Model: 275/60/15 Rear Rim Width: 7" TB Dia: 1.22 Front Shocks: Koni Red Front Sway bar Dia: 7/8" Factory Rear Leaf Suspension Model Rate: Factory with 2" drop Blocks. Shocks: Koni Red Rear Sway bar Dia: N/A Front Brakes: Factory Police with Firm Feel Carbon Metallic Pads Rotor Dia Width: 11.75" Raybestos Caliper-Pistons: Pin single pistons Cooling Ducts: n/a Rear Brakes: HP Drums stock shoes Drum Size Dia Width: 11x3" Parking Brake: Factory Dual Circuit Dia MC: MP 15/16 E-berg Alum with AR Adapter Plate Chassis: Firm Feel Stage 4 super duper top secret box, Firm Feel Greasable LCA pins, Poly LCA bushings, CAP UCA's. Poly Strut Rod bushings, AR LCA Braces, MP Steering Coupler Rebuild Kit, AR Tow Eyes Subframe Connectors: MP Bolt in (welded) Torque Boxes: n/a Roll bar, Roll Cage: n/a Aftermarket stiffeners: Comments: Very happy with the over all combo. A lot has come to market since 08 though. 1. Best above improvement: Firm Feel Box 2. Least effective above improvement: WHeels and tires. The sizing is all wrong. Tires are betty than what I'm used to though. 3. Next improvement: Hotchkis Sway Bars and new rear leaf springs 4. Above car handles IMO on a 1-10 ( 10 best Z06, 1 yugo): 6. would be an 8 if I had 17" wheels and tires. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 
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Re: Should we have Suspension Mod Register?
[Re: Kern Dog]
#1156387
01/31/12 09:41 AM
01/31/12 09:41 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 11,099
Berlin, N.J.
abodyjoe
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 11,099
Berlin, N.J.
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Model: dart Year: 1971 Weight: Dry, Wet w/driver never weighed it Application: Show, Daily Driver, Drag, Autocross, Track, Race family cruiser Engine Package briefly: 60,000 mile stock 1974 360 Estimate HP: FW or RWHP not much Trans: 904 Speeds:3 RE Ratio: open 2,94 Front Tire Size Brand Model: 225-50-17 nitto Front Rim width: 17x8 5.72 backspace Rear tire Size Brand Model: 275/50-17 nitto Rear Rim Width: 17x8 5.72 backspace Aftermarket Front End brand: RMS Alter-K-Tion Coil Rate: 500 Front Shocks: QA1 Front Sway bar Dia: forget Rear Suspension : RMS Street Lynx Shocks: QA1 Coil Rate: Variable Rate 175/350 Front Brakes: wilwood Rotor Dia Width: 11" Caliper-Pistons: 4 Rear Brakes: 11"x2" drum Parking Brake: stock Dual Circuit Dia MC: wilwood Subframe Connectors: home made welded in Best above improvement: the power rack and frame connectors Next improvement OD trans or efi Above car handles IMO on a 1-10 ( 10 best Z06, 1 yugo): better then i can drive it.  
It's better to keep your mouth shut and give the impression that you're stupid than to open it and remove all doubt. www.MoparMisfits.com
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Re: Should we have Suspension Modification Register?
[Re: jcc]
#1156388
02/02/12 03:51 PM
02/02/12 03:51 PM
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 23,694
Here
jcc
OP
No soup for you!!!
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OP
No soup for you!!!
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 23,694
Here
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Entry/Update Date: 2/1/12
Model: Polara 500 B body dart
Year: 1962
Weight: 3400 Dry
Application: Daily Driver
Engine Package briefly: 273, Mild Cam, Alum Hi Rise, 650 Avenger, MSD Digital All in 1 Dist, TTI's, Valley pan, Windage tray
Estimate HP: 220 FW
Trans: Passon Alum Not OD
Speeds: 4
Gears:
RE Ratio: 3.23
RE Type: Sure Grip Mopar Alum
Front Tire Size Brand Model: 245/60/14 BFG
Front Rim width: 8
Rear tire Size Brand Model: 245/60/14 BFG
Rear Rim Width: 8
Aftermarket Front End brand:
TB Dia: 1.02
Coil Rate:
Front Shocks: QA1 1 way Adj
Front Sway bar Dia:
Rear Leaf Suspension Model Rate: 225/lb Fiberglass
Shocks: QA1 1 Way Adj Inverted
Rear Sway bar Dia:
Front Brakes: Wilwood
Rotor Dia Width:10.5"x.81"
Caliper-Pistons: 4
Cooling Ducts: Soon
Rear Brakes: drums Tapered axle Ugh
Drum Size Dia Width: 10x2
Rotor Dia:
Rotor width:
Caliper- Pistons :
Parking Brake: OEM
Dual Circuit Dia MC: Dual Mopar Alum
Chassis:
Subframe Connectors: 2x2x.083 welded
Torque Boxes:
Roll bar, Roll Cage:
Aftermarket stiffeners: Upper Tower bracing coming
Comments:
Just wanted a fun car to drive, previous owner in 2nd "gas crisis" 1980? yanked 361 V8/727, and installed the 273/4 speed, I just took it a step further and like the results so far
1. Best above improvement: "1.02" TB and Firm Feel Box #2, (#3 would be next time)
2. Least effective above improvement; Subframes
3. Next improvement, Discrete front end aero tricks, rear discs, front discs to 1.25" width
4. Above car handles IMO on a 1-10 ( 10 best Z06, 1 yugo): For what it is, 8.2
I'm with Helmuth Hübener, and no soup is being served today.
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Re: Should we have Suspension Modification Register?
[Re: jcc]
#1156389
02/11/12 03:38 PM
02/11/12 03:38 PM
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 16,214
Mesa, Arizona
dart4forte
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 16,214
Mesa, Arizona
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Entry/Update Date:
Model: Road Runner
Year: 1971
Weight: Dry, Wet w/driver TBD
Application: Show, Driver,
Engine Package briefly: .030 stroked 400 451 ci, Demon Six Shooter
Estimate HP: 375
Trans: 833
Speeds:
Gears: Dana 60
RE Ratio: 3.55
RE Type: Sure Grip,
Front Tire Size Brand Model: 245/60/15
Front Rim width: 15x7
Rear tire Size Brand Model: 275/60/15
Rear Rim Width: 15X8.5
Aftermarket Front End brand: Firm Feel - sway bars, tubular Upper control Arm, boxed lower contril arm, Adjustable strut rods
TB Dia: Stock Hemi
Coil Rate:
Front Shocks: Bilstien
Front Sway bar Dia: Firm Feel 1.75
Rear Leaf Suspension Model Rate: MP HD
Shocks: Bilstien
Rear Sway bar Dia: Firm Feel 3/4
Front Brakes: Stock Disk
Rotor Dia Width: stock
Caliper-Pistons: Stock
Cooling Ducts: None
Rear Brakes: Stock Drum 11"
Drum Size Dia Width: Stock
Rotor Dia:
Rotor width:
Caliper- Pistons :
Parking Brake: Yes
Dual Circuit Dia MC:
Chassis:
Subframe Connectors: Yes
Torque Boxes: No
Roll bar, Roll Cage: No
Aftermarket stiffeners: Homemade
Comments: Tubular Upper A Arm, Boxed Lower Contol; Arm
1. Best above improvement: Firm Feel suspension system
2. Least effective above: improvement Stock Brakes
3. Next improvement: Firm Feel Adjustable Idler Arm, Firm Feel Pitman Arm support bearing, Brake upgrade to aftermarket front and rear disks
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Re: Should we have Suspension Modification Register?
[Re: jcc]
#1156390
05/04/12 08:12 PM
05/04/12 08:12 PM
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Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 813
Ontario,Canada
brads70
super stock
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super stock
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 813
Ontario,Canada
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Entry/Update Date: May 2012 Model: Dodge Challenger Year: 1970 Weight: 3857 with me in it ( last weighed with cast iron heads and steel leaf springs) Application: Show, Daily Driver, Engine Package briefly: 451" stroker, Mopar aluminum stage 6 heads, roller hyd cam Estimate HP: 540 at the engine Trans: 4L65E Speeds: Gears: 4 speed auto RE Ratio:3:54 RE Type: Eaton true trac Front Tire Size Brand Model: Firestone Indy 500's 235/60/15 Front Rim width: 7" Rear tire Size Brand Model: Firestone Indy 500's 255/60/15 Rear Rim Width: 8" Aftermarket Front End brand: TB Dia: 1" Coil Rate: Front Shocks: Bilstein Front Sway bar Dia: Hotchkis 1 1/4" tubular Rear Leaf Suspension Model Rate: Hyperco composite 175lb rate Shocks: Bilstein Rear Sway bar Dia: Hotchkis tubular 13/16" Front Brakes: Viper 1st gen ( brembo) Rotor Dia Width: 1 1/4 1973 C-Body Caliper-Pistons: Cooling Ducts: Rear Brakes: Dr Diff 10.4 disc kit? Drum Size Dia Width: Rotor Dia: Rotor width: Caliper- Pistons : Parking Brake: Dual Circuit Dia MC: Chassis: Subframe Connectors: yes Torque Boxes: yes Roll bar, Roll Cage: no Aftermarket stiffeners: Comments: 1973 C-Body spindles and rotors, A-Body LCA's, Hotchkis upper control arms. Howe quick bump kit for dialing in the bump steer, firm feel stage 3 power steering box, firm feel fast ratio arms. B-Body center link, Full rewelded k-frame with gusseted steering box mounts   1. Best above improvement: Getting rid of most of the bumpsteer 2. Least effective above improvement 3. Next improvement 10" rear rims and 295/50/15 tires, bigger torsion bars 4. Above car handles IMO on a 1-10 ( 10 best Z06, 1 yugo):7
Last edited by brads70; 05/04/12 08:49 PM.
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Re: Should we have Suspension Modification Register?
[Re: jcc]
#1156391
09/09/12 06:23 PM
09/09/12 06:23 PM
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Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 44
Mosjøen, Norway
jvike
member
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member
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 44
Mosjøen, Norway
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Entry Date: 09.09.12 Model: Plymouth Barracuda Year: 1970 Weight: 3637 lbs 3/4 fuel w/driver Application: Mostly street, and some trackdays @ roadrace track Engine Package briefly: 1972 340, Low comp, small valves. RPM-AirGap, Holley 650DP Estimate HP: 214 RWHP on Dynolicious app Trans: TCI Streetfighter 727 Torqueflight Speeds: 3 speed Gears: Standard 727 RE Ratio: 3.23:1 RE Type: Sure Grip. Front Tire Size Brand Model: 275/35-18 Toyo Proxis R888 Front Rim width: 9.5" Rear tire Size Brand Model: 335/30-18 Toyo Proxis R888 (Stock wheelwells!) Rear Rim Width: 12" Aftermarket Front End brand: XV Motorsports Level II Coil Rate: 350 lb/in Front Shocks: XV Motorsports Monotube Front Sway bar Dia: 1-1/4" Rear Suspension: XV Motorsports Level II 3-Link Shocks: XV Motorsports Monotube Rear Sway bar Dia: 1" Front Brakes: XV Motorsports/Stop Tech Rotor Dia Width: 14", 1.25" Caliper-Pistons: 6 Piston Rear Brakes: XV Motorsports/Stop Tech Rotor Dia: 13" Rotor width: 1.25" Caliper- Pistons : 2 Piston Parking Brake: Wilwood Chassis: Unibody Subframe Connectors: XV Motorsports Torque Boxes: No Roll bar, Roll Cage: No Aftermarket stiffeners: XV Motorports Chassis stiffening kit Comments: Hydraboost 1. Best above improvement: Stiffening kit, the fundation for any suspension 2. Least effective above improvement Parking brake 3. Next improvement More power, Manuel trans, bether seats 4. Above car handles IMO on a 1-10 ( 10 best Z06, 1 yugo): 9, tuning and proper seats will get it there   
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Re: Should we have Suspension Modification Register?
[Re: jvike]
#1156392
09/12/12 08:31 AM
09/12/12 08:31 AM
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Joined: May 2005
Posts: 723
Houston Tx
Uhcoog1
super stock
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super stock
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 723
Houston Tx
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I love your ride, jvike!!! That's wicked!
-'02 Dodge Viper Ex-World Challenge racecar
-'73 Duster, 6.1 based 392 hilborn hemi, tko600, full floater rear 9", Hellwig custom bars, viper brakes, built for road course
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Re: Should we have Suspension Modification Register?
[Re: jvike]
#1156393
09/12/12 10:34 AM
09/12/12 10:34 AM
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Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,443
NW Chicago suburban area
Mopar Mitch
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,443
NW Chicago suburban area
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Jvike -- You've got got a really coolll Cuda. Where do you run it?
Mopar Mitch
"Road racers and autocrossers go in deeper and come out harder!"... and rain never stops us from having fun with our cars... in fact, it makes us better drivers!
Check out MOPAR ACTION MAGAZINE, August 2006 issue for feature article and specs on my autocross T/A!
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Re: Should we have Suspension Modification Register?
[Re: Mopar Mitch]
#1156394
09/12/12 02:27 PM
09/12/12 02:27 PM
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Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 4,302
Nebraska
72Swinger
master
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master
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 4,302
Nebraska
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He is the Norwegian Cuda guy, with a really righteous Cuda!
Mopar to the bone!!!
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Re: Should we have Suspension Modification Register?
[Re: 72Swinger]
#1156395
09/26/12 05:34 PM
09/26/12 05:34 PM
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Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 44
Mosjøen, Norway
jvike
member
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member
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 44
Mosjøen, Norway
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Thanks guys! Yeah I live in the northern part of Norway, the local track is called Arctic Circle Raceway, so the name tells the location. Here are some action pictures for ya!  At speed  Pitlane exit. Car handles beautifully, now on to the next evolution of the car, more power and three pedals. Joakim
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Re: Should we have Suspension Mod Register?
[Re: jcc]
#1156396
12/29/12 03:28 PM
12/29/12 03:28 PM
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Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12,375
SoCal
MuuMuu101
I got lucky at Woodward!
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I got lucky at Woodward!
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12,375
SoCal
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I figure I'll give this a go for now since I plan on upgrading my suspension little by little over the next year or so. It will help me record my changes. Entry/Update Date: 12/29/12 Model: Dodge Dart Year: 1968 Weight: ~2800lbs Dry, ~3050lbs Wet w/driver Application: Driver Engine Package briefly: Stock 273. Estimate HP: 150 RWHP Trans: Stock 904 Speed: I've gotten it to 100 mph before. Gears: stock gears RE Ratio: 2.94 RE Type: Open 7-1/4 Front Tire Size Brand Model: 205/75/14 Enduro 75 Front Rim width: 5" Rear tire Size Brand Model: 205/75/14 Firestone FR380 Rear Rim Width: 5" Aftermarket Front End brand: Stock Coil Rate: .86" T-bars (I believe)... Front Shocks: Bilstein RCD Front Sway bar Dia: N/A Rear Leaf Suspension Model Rate: Stock Shocks: Bilstein RCD Rear Sway bar Dia: N/A Front Brakes: Stock KH Rotor Dia Width: 11" Caliper-Pistons: 2? Cooling Ducts: None Rear Brakes : Drums Drum Size Dia Width: 10"x1.5" Rotor Dia: N/A Rotor width :[/b} N/A [b} Caliper- Pistons : N/A Parking Brake: Doesn't work Dual Circuit Dia MC: NAPA 1.03" bore for a 1980 Aspen (should be installed soon) Chassis: Subframe Connectors: N/A Torque Boxes: Stock Roll bar, Roll Cage: N/A Aftermarket stiffeners: N/A Comments: This is just my starting point. Planning on completely upgrading the suspension this year 1. Best above improvement: Bilstein 2. Least effective above improvement: Taller tires 3. Next improvement: Probably going to go with a suspension rebuild after I get the car drivable, followed by hollow sway bar/s, subframe connectors, 1.0" or greater T-Bars, upgraded Leaf Springs, FF Stage III box, etc. 4. Above car handles IMO on a 1-10 ( 10 best Z06, 1 yugo): 4-5 (before the shocks)
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Re: Should we have Suspension Mod Register?
[Re: MuuMuu101]
#1156397
03/03/13 07:33 PM
03/03/13 07:33 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,376
NORTHERN CA
HUSTLESTUFF
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,376
NORTHERN CA
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Model: Charger Year: 1969 Weight: have not weighed, prob 4200 w/ me Application: Track Engine Package briefly: 512 440 source 400 block, BRC girdle, .590 cam 274@50, MCH CNC’d edlebrock, Homemade Aluminum Oil pan baffled and gated Estimate HP: 650 Trans: 18 spline A833 Gearvendor OD Speeds:4 plus GV Gears: Stock RE Ratio: 4.10 RE Type: Dana 60 stock B-body trac-loc Front Tire Size Brand Model: Nitto NT05 275/40/18 Front Rim width: 18 x 9 4.5 backspace Rear tire Size Brand Model: Nitto NT 05 295/45/18 Rear Rim Width: 18 x 10 5.0 backspace Aftermarket Front End brand: Hotchkis UCA, Strut Rods, Firm Feel stage 3 box, boxed LCA, Stiffened K-Member, Firm feel quick ratio pitman and idler arms TB Dia: 1.125 Unknown Brand Coil Rate: Front Shocks: Hotchkis Bilstein Front Sway bar Dia: 1.375 Hotchkis Rear Leaf Suspension Model Rate: Unknown (bought third hand) Stiff!!! Shocks: Hotchkis Bilstein Rear Sway bar Dia: None Front Brakes: Wilwood Hubs, Coleman 14” rotor, Rotor Dia Width: 14” 1.25 Caliper-Pistons: US Brake(AFCO now)F88i, Homemade caliper bracket on stock drum spindle Cooling Ducts: none Rear Brakes: Wilwood Drum Size Dia Width: Rotor Dia:12.19 Rotor width:.81 Caliper- Pistons : US Brake(AFCO now)F33i Parking Brake: integral wilwood Dual Circuit Dia MC: Trck MC Think it’s the 1” Chassis: Subframe Connectors: Home made Torque Boxes: Roll bar, Roll Cage: Aftermarket stiffeners: XV radiator support brace Comments: 1. Best above improvement: Big Bars 2. Least effective above improvement 3. Next improvement 4. Above car handles IMO on a 1-10 ( 10 best Z06, 1 yugo): 10
"Were in it to win it. Anything less will end up being..... A whole lot of fun doing!!" UNLAWFL
RIP UN
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Re: Should we have Suspension Mod Register?
[Re: HUSTLESTUFF]
#1156398
03/05/13 04:46 PM
03/05/13 04:46 PM
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Joined: May 2007
Posts: 553
Sac, CA, USA
ntstlgl1970
mopar
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mopar
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 553
Sac, CA, USA
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Entry/Update Date: 3/5/13
Model: Barracuda
Year: 70
Weight: Guessing 3800ish w/driver
Application: Makes me happy driving it doing whatever
Engine Package briefly: 73 440, stock short block, 915 heads, edelbrock FI, Milodon road race oil pan
Estimate HP: 375ish RWHP on drag strip dyno calcs
Trans: 518 A/T, lockup converter
Speeds: 4
Gears: .69 overdrive
RE Ratio: 3.91:1
RE Type: 8 3/4, Sure Grip
Front Tire Size Brand Model: 245/45R17 BFG T/A
Front Rim width: 17x8
Rear tire Size Brand Model: 305/45R17 BFG T/A
Rear Rim Width: 17x9.5
Aftermarket Front End brand: Stock configuration, Firm Feel upper control arms, FF adjustable strut rods, boxed lower arms, Flaming River manual steering box, reinforced K member
4 degrees positive caster, .5 degrees negative camber, .025" toe in
TB Dia: 1.06
Coil Rate:
Front Shocks: QA1 double adjustable
Front Sway bar Dia: Hellwig tubular 1.250
Rear Leaf Suspension Model Rate: MP Oval Track, offset hangers
Shocks: QA1 double adjustable
Rear Sway bar Dia: None
Front Brakes: Stock, Firm Feel carbon pads
Rotor Dia Width: 10.87
Caliper-Pistons: Stock slider, single piston
Cooling Ducts:None
Rear Brakes: stock drum
Drum Size Dia Width: 11x2
Rotor Dia: n/a
Rotor width: n/a
Caliper- Pistons : n/a
Parking Brake: stock
Dual Circuit Dia MC: 1-1/16
Chassis:
Subframe Connectors: XV
Torque Boxes: none
Roll bar, Roll Cage: none
Aftermarket stiffeners: XV radiator brace, XV shock tower reinforcement
Comments: Sure!
1. Best above improvement: Shocks
2. Least effective above improvement: Old tires
3. Next improvement: tires, torque boxes, brakes, maybe wheels
4. Above car handles IMO on a 1-10 ( 10 best Z06, 1 yugo): 6-7 on current tires (they're 15 years old and hard as rocks)
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Re: Should we have Suspension Mod Register?
[Re: ntstlgl1970]
#1156399
04/26/13 02:06 AM
04/26/13 02:06 AM
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Joined: May 2007
Posts: 553
Sac, CA, USA
ntstlgl1970
mopar
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mopar
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 553
Sac, CA, USA
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Entry/Update Date: 4/25/13 - changed a couple of things
Model: Barracuda
Year: 70
Weight: Guessing 3800ish w/driver
Application: Makes me happy driving it doing whatever
Engine Package briefly: 73 440, stock short block, 915 heads, edelbrock FI, Milodon road race oil pan sectioned to clear center link at full lock w/stock length idler and pitman arms
Estimate HP: 375ish RWHP on drag strip dyno calcs
Trans: 518 A/T, lockup converter
Speeds: 4
Gears: .69 overdrive
RE Ratio: 3.91:1
RE Type: 8 3/4, Sure Grip
Front Tire Size Brand Model: 265/35R18 Nitto Invo
Front Rim width: 18x9.5
Rear tire Size Brand Model: 295/35R18 Nitto Invo
Rear Rim Width: 18x10
Aftermarket Front End brand: Stock configuration, Firm Feel upper control arms, FF adjustable strut rods, boxed lower arms, Flaming River manual steering box, reinforced K member
4 degrees positive caster, .5 degrees negative camber, .025" toe in
TB Dia: 1.06
Coil Rate:
Front Shocks: QA1 double adjustable
Front Sway bar Dia: Hellwig tubular 1.250
Rear Leaf Suspension Model Rate: MP Oval Track, offset hangers
Shocks: QA1 double adjustable
Rear Sway bar Dia: None
Front Brakes: Stock, Firm Feel carbon pads
Rotor Dia Width: 10.87
Caliper-Pistons: Stock slider, single piston
Cooling Ducts:None
Rear Brakes: stock drum
Drum Size Dia Width: 11x2
Rotor Dia: n/a
Rotor width: n/a
Caliper- Pistons : n/a
Parking Brake: stock
Dual Circuit Dia MC: 1-1/32
Chassis:
Subframe Connectors: XV
Torque Boxes: US Car Tool
Roll bar, Roll Cage: none
Aftermarket stiffeners: XV radiator brace, XV shock tower reinforcement, US car tool torque boxes F+R
Comments: Sure!
1. Best above improvement: New tires, Shocks
2. Least effective above improvement: Old tires
3. Next improvement: brakes
4. Above car handles IMO on a 1-10 ( 10 best Z06, 1 yugo): hope to find out after I get the tires mounted next week
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Re: Should we have Suspension Mod Register?
[Re: ntstlgl1970]
#1156400
08/28/13 01:21 AM
08/28/13 01:21 AM
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Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 86
Battle Ground, Washington
Rapom65
member
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member
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 86
Battle Ground, Washington
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Entry/Update Date: #1, 27 AUG 2013
Model: Gold Duster, under construction hodgepodge of shelf parts, junkyard scrounging and drag racing left overs
Year: 1974
Application: Hobby, Driver, Track days, Autocross
Engine: 365, ported Eddy RPM heads, RPM Airgap, 10.25:1
Estimate HP: 450ish, chassis dyno'd @ 406 hp & 421 tq before Eddy heads/Crane Gold rockers & compression bump
Trans: '75 iron case 4sp OD, Lakewood bell housing, billet flywheel, Centerforce "Dual Friction" clutch, Home built Hyd clutch conversion, Hurst "Pro Billet" shifter, E body Pistol grip, auto to 4sp hump conversion
Gears: stock
RA Ratio: Narrowed 8 3/4, 742, 3.55 sure grip, shortend & resplined C body axles, current Green bearings going back to Timken tapered rollers
Front Tire Size Brand Model: not purchased yet ?x15
Front Rim width: 15x7 4.0"BS
Rear tire Size Brand Model: MT "I" block N50 (give me a break they're all I have and I have 2 sets to wear out!)
Rear Rim Width: 15x10
Front TB Dia: .890s for now but going bigger
Front End brand: stock K fully welded & gusseted
Front Shocks: Hotchkis Fox - to be purchased
Front Sway bar Dia: Helwig 1.125 hollow
Urethane bushing where? Rear suspension, f/r shocks, front swaybar
UCA: OEM w/ Moog K7103 offset bushings
TR: OEM 9/16" to be replaced by 11/16"
Strut Rods: Dillinger chromemoly adjustable
LCA Reinforcement? Full length plate
Caster/Camber/Toe: TBD per board recommendations
Rear Leaf Suspension Model Rate: NA
Aftermarket Suspension: Home built Triangulated 4 Link, 1.5" tubes, mini tub with lower 4 link mounts "in frame"
Shocks: Strange single adjustable w/ current QA1 150# springs to be matched with eventual TB selection
Adj Setting: Compression
Rear Sway bar Dia: NA
Front Brakes: OEM single piston B body caliper, braided DOT hoses
Brand Pad: Wagner 1CM7017 severe duty carbon metalic
Rotor Dia Width: Reybestos 11.75 x 1.0
Caliper Piston: 2.75"
Cooling Ducts: yes
Rear Brakes: OEM '85 New Yorker finned drum
Drum Size Dia Width: 10 x 2.5
Rotor Dia Width: not yet
Caliper: dito above
Parking Brake: yes, OEM w/ modifications
MC: OEM, Power disk off '85 New Yorker w/ 2 to 4 bolt adapter
Booster: rebuilt OEM '74 A body
Dual Circuit Dia: 1 1/32"
Proportioning Valve: OEM '74 disk w/ aftermarket bias adjuster plumbed in rear line
Brake Fluid: None selected yet, high wet boiling point due to NW climate
Steering: Firm Feel Stage 3, Saginaw pump, cooler plumbed into return line, floor shift power steering column conversion
Chassis OEM
Subframe Connectors: Home built 2x3" .120 wall welded & tied into rockers
Torque Boxes: no
Roll bar, Roll Cage: none at this time, designing seat harness bar behind front buckets, rear seat delete option
Aftermarket stiffeners: Homemade 2x3 .120 wall lower radiator cross bar, lowered & widened for 28" aluminum radiator, OEM firewall to fender struts tied into homemade shock tower brace
Comments: Hope I didn't ruffle feathers posting a car in progress
1. Best above improvement:
2. Least effective above improvement: definitely tires and rims!
3. Next improvement Likely: definitely tires and rims!, uprated TB's w/ matching rear coil springs, ultimately fuel injection & Jamie P's 5 speed if unhappy with 4sp OD
4. Above car handles IMO on a 1-10 ( 10 best Z06, 1 yugo): 10 sitting on jack stands VROOM - VROOM!
5. My satisfaction with handing of above car 1-10: 0 right now
Last edited by Rapom65; 09/08/13 01:39 PM.
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Re: Should we have Suspension Mod Register?
[Re: Rapom65]
#1156401
09/03/13 05:53 PM
09/03/13 05:53 PM
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Joined: May 2005
Posts: 256
USA
Consulier
enthusiast
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enthusiast
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 256
USA
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Entry/Update Date: 09/03/2013 Model: Plymouth Satellite Sedan Year: 1970 Weight: about 3,850 Application: Autocross, Track Day Engine Package briefly: Aluminum head 451, 11:1 compression, hydraulic cam, 750 cfm carb, 1 3/4" Hedman headers with 3" Flowmaster exhaust Estimate HP: 525 FW Trans: Keisler RS 600 Speeds: 5 Flywheel: RAM Aluminum Clutch: RAM Diaphragm Gears: 2.80, 1.99, 1.33, 1.0, 0.67 RE Ratio: 3.73:1 RE Type: 8 3/4, 489 Case, True Trac Front Tire Size Brand Model: 275/35/18 Falken RT-615k Front Rim width: 10" Weld RTS Rear tire Size Brand Model: 295/40/18 Falken RT-615k Rear Rim Width: 10" Weld RTS Aftermarket Front End brand: Chrysler TB Dia: 1.06 Front Shocks: Hotchkis by Fox Front Sway bar Dia: 1.25" Rear Leaf Suspension Model Rate: Hotchkis Shocks: Hotchkis by Fox Rear Sway bar Dia: 1.0" Adjustable Front Brakes: AR Engineering / Dr Diff Viper Caliper Conversion with Hawk HT-10 pads Rotor Dia Width: 11.75" x 1.0" iron Cordoba rotors Caliper-Pistons: First Generation Viper Calipers Cooling Ducts: N/A Rear Brakes: Dr Diff Cobra Conversion with Hawk Blue pads Rotor Dia: 12" Rotor width: 0.75" Caliper- Pistons : Single Piston Cobra Caliper Parking Brake: N/A Dual Circuit Dia MC: 1.0" Chassis: Stock K-Member: Stock with minor reinforcements on strut rod attachment points Subframe Connectors: Hotchkis Torque Boxes: N/A Roll bar, Roll Cage: N/A Aftermarket stiffeners: N/A Steering: Firm Feel Stage 2 Steering Support: Firm Feel Sector Support Kit Steering Quickener: Firm Feel large sector pinion and idler arm Bumpsteer Modifications: Hotchkis adjustable steering rod kit Strut Rods: Hotchkis adjustable Upper Control Arms: Hotchkis tubular Lower Control Arms: Stock unboxed Alignment: -2.0 Camber, 1/16" Toe-In, 6 degrees of Caster Comments: The car is a 100% bolt on with zero fabrication built on my garage floor with hand tools. There is nothing special and everything is readily available to duplicate the entire package. The only sorting that has ever been done to the car is the breather system and moved to a 295 rear tire. Suspension has been unchanged since the car was built and only the rear swaybar has been adjusted. 1. Best above improvement: 5 speed and suspension 2. Least effective above improvement: New door panels 3. Next improvement: 295 front tire 4. Above car handles IMO on a 1-10 ( 10 best Z06, 1 yugo): 9.5 - just too heavy still     
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Re: Should we have Suspension Mod Register?
[Re: Consulier]
#1156402
12/09/13 03:38 AM
12/09/13 03:38 AM
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 6,445
Missouri
68KillerBee
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 6,445
Missouri
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So, I guess we can't go back and edit our posts for some reason?? Since my post I had the new, massive front sway bar(Hotchkis) installed, put slightly bigger wheels/tires on the front and have bilsteins from Hotchkis all around. Can definitely feel the improvement, but next will be some sub-frame connectors. Unfortunately, I'm building a stroker motor for the bee and the connectors will be the first thing added after I get the driveline squared away. The guys I had put the front sway bar in had some difficulty and I'll post some pics next time I go out in the shed as to what they had to do to make it fit.  
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Re: Should we have Suspension Mod Register?
[Re: Rapom65]
#1156403
02/01/14 02:30 PM
02/01/14 02:30 PM
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Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 86
Battle Ground, Washington
Rapom65
member
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member
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 86
Battle Ground, Washington
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Quote:
Entry/Update Date: #2 / 1 Feb 2014
Model: Gold Duster, hodgepodge of shelf parts, junkyard scrounging and drag racing left overs
Year: 1974
Application: Hobby, Driver, Track days, Autocross
Engine: 365 cu in, ported Eddy RPM heads/airgap, 10.25:1, Holley 750 , TTI headers
Estimate HP: 450ish, chassis dyno'd @ 406 hp/421 tq before Eddy heads/Crane Gold rockers/compression bump
Trans: '75 iron case 4sp OD, Lakewood bell, billet flywheel, Centerforce "Dual Friction" clutch, Hyd clutch conversion, Hurst "Pro Billet" shifter, E body Pistol grip, 4sp hump conversion
Gears: stock
RA Ratio: Narrowed 8 3/4, 742, 3.55 sure grip, C body axles, 3" studs, current Green bearings going back to Timken tapered rollers
Front Tire Size Brand Model: not purchased yet ?x15
Front Rim width: 15x7 4"BS
Rear tire Size Brand Model: MT "I" block N50 (give me a break they're all I have plus I have 2 new sets to wear out!)
Rear Rim Width: 15x10 3 5/16" BS
Front TB Dia: .890s for now but 1.06 planned
Front End brand: stock K welded & gusseted
Front Shocks: Hotchkis Fox non-adj
Front Sway bar Dia: Helwig 1.125 hollow
Urethane bushing where? Rear suspension, f/r shocks, front sway bar
UCA: OEM, Moog K7103 offset bushings
TR: OEM 9/16", Proform alum adj
Strut Rods: Dillinger chromemoly adj
LCA Reinforcement? Full length plate
Caster/Camber/Toe: TBD per board recommendations
Rear Leaf Suspension Model Rate: NA
Aftermarket Suspension: Home built Triangulated 4 Link, 1.5" tubes, mini tub, lower 4 link mounts "in frame"
Shocks: Strange single adj, QA1 150# springs to be matched with TB upgrade
Adj Setting: Compression
Rear Sway bar Dia: NA
Front Brakes: '76 single piston, braided DOT hoses
Brand Pad: Wagner 1CM7017 severe duty carbon metalic
Rotor Dia Width: Reybestos 11.75 x 1.0
Caliper Piston: 2.75"
Cooling Ducts: yes
Rear Brakes: '85 New Yorker finned drum
Drum Size Dia Width: 10 x 2.5
Rotor Dia Width: NA
Caliper: dito above
Parking Brake: OEM w/ modifications
MC: '85 New Yorker power disk, 4 bolt adapter
Dual Circuit Dia: 1 1/32"
Booster: rebuilt OEM '74 A body disk
Proportioning Valve: OEM '74 A body disk, bias adjuster plumbed in rear line
Brake Fluid: None selected yet, high wet boiling point due to NW climate
Steering: Firm Feel Stage 3, Saginaw pump, cooler in return line, floor shift power steering column conversion
Chassis: OEM
Subframe Connectors: 2 x 3 x .120 wall welded & tied into rockers
Torque Boxes: no
Roll bar, Roll Cage: none at this time, designing harness bar behind front buckets, rear seat deleted w/ firewall
Aftermarket stiffeners: 2 x 3 x .120 wall lower radiator support bar, lowered & widened for 28" aluminum radiator, OEM fender support struts tied into engine compartment cross brace
Comments: Hope I didn't ruffle feathers posting a car in progress
1. Best above improvement:
2. Least effective above improvement:
3. Next improvement Likely: definitely tires and rims!, uprated TB's w/ matching rear coil springs, ultimately "FAST" fuel injection & Jamie P's 5 speed if unhappy with 4sp OD
4. Above car handles IMO on a 1-10 ( 10 best Z06, 1 yugo): 10 sitting on jack stands VROOM - VROOM!
5. My satisfaction with handing of above car 1-10: 0 right now
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Re: Should we have Suspension Modification Register?
[Re: jcc]
#1156404
02/02/14 08:21 AM
02/02/14 08:21 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,575
The Netherlands
BigBlockMopar
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,575
The Netherlands
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Entry/Update Date: - Feb 2, 2014 Model: - 1973 Dodge Dart Swinger. Weight: - ca. 1550kg / 3400+ lbs less driver. Application: Daily Driver ENGINE / TRANS / REAR AXLEEngine Package briefly: - 2bbl 318ci Propane-fueled Estimate HP: - 145hp (dyno’d RWHP) Trans: - A518 OD RE Ratio/Type: - 3.91:1 SureGrip WHEELSFront/Rear Tires and Wheels: - 215/45/17 Michelin Tires on 7J Showwheels FRONT SUSPENSIONAftermarket Front End brand: - stock Bushing material: - Polyurethane TB Dia: - 1" JustSuspension torsionbars Front Shocks: - KYB Front Sway bar Dia: - Hellwig 1-1/8" UCA upgrades / type / brand - stock LCA upgrades / type / brand - stock REAR SUSPENSIONRear Leaf Suspension Model Rate: - Stock with 2 extra leafs per side. Bushing material: - Polyurethane Shocks: - Monroe SensaTrack LoadAdjusters Rear Sway bar Dia: - None BRAKESFront Brakes: - '73 Chrysler Rotor Dia / Width: - 11.75" / 1.25" Caliper-Pistons: - '73 Chrysler Cooling Ducts:Brake pad material / brand - HAWK HPS Rear Brakes: - 10" drums Parking Brake: - Stock Brake pad/shoe material / brand - stock Dual Circuit Dia MC: - 1-1/32" DrDiff mastercylinder Brake Fluid DoT 3, 4, 5, 5.1 Other - STEERINGPower / Manual - Power Box or Rack / type - Borgeson powersteering box Steering pump - Saginaw Pitman-/idler arm ratio - stock Tie-rod diameter - stock ALIGNMENT SPECSCaster - 1.5 deg. Camber - 2 deg. Toe setting IN/OUT - 1/8” IN Ride height change from stock, FRONT - 2" lower Ride height change from stock, REAR - 1 to 2" lower CHASSIS / FRAMEChassis: - stock Subframe Connectors: - homemade 2x3" Torque Boxes: - Roll bar, Roll Cage: - Other / Aftermarket stiffeners: - COMMENTS: - none 1. Best above improvement(s): - Hellwig swaybar 2. Least effective above improvement - paint 3. Next improvement - Torque boxes / Body stiffening (read: rust removal) 4a. Above car handles IMO on a 1-10 ( 10 best Z06, 1 yugo): 7 4b. Above car handles IMO compared to a similar car of same buildyear: 9 PICTURES    
Last edited by BigBlockMopar; 02/02/14 03:36 PM.
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Re: Should we have Suspension Modification Register?
[Re: BigBlockMopar]
#1156405
02/03/14 03:41 AM
02/03/14 03:41 AM
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 898
Georgia
72440CUDA
super stock
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super stock
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 898
Georgia
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Info on my hooptie:
Entry/Update Date: Baseline / 3 Feb 14
Model: 'Cuda
Year: 1972ish
Weight: ?
Application: Mix
Engine Package briefly: Get this...
Original running 50,000 mile 440 out of a 1969 Yorker I bought for $250, compression tested 180 psi (+/- 5 psi), never rebuilt.
Eddie RPM intake/cam, Crane roller rockers, stock heads have never been pulled off, Hooker Super Comp headers, remote valve breather catch can.
(this replaced the non #'s matching 318)
Estimate HP: 280 RWHP, 350 RWTQ via mobile chassis dyno
Trans: TCI 727 with pro-street manual valvebody, GV overdrive
RE Ratio: 3.55
RE Type: Sure Grip
Front Tire Size Brand Model: 275/35-18 Nitto NT05
Front Rim width: Cruzin' Concepts FR500 18x9, w/ 1" spacer
Rear tire Size Brand Model: 295/35-18 Nitto NT05
Rear Rim Width: Cruzin' Concepts FR500 18x10, w/ 3/8" spacer
Front End: Stock rebuild with PST polygraphite bushngs
TB Dia: Stock small block
Front Shocks: KYB gas-a-just
Front Sway bar Dia: Stock 'Cuda, poly bushings
Rear Leaf Suspension: Stock small block leafs, Mopar Performance 3/4" offset A-body hangers, 3/4" offset rear shackels, relocated spring pearches
Rear Shocks: Auto Zone specials, which replaced the air shocks that were on it.
Rear Sway bar Dia: Stock 'Cuda, poly bushings
Front Brakes: Stock disks ('73?)
Caliper-Pistons: Stock single piston
Rear Brakes: Stock Drums
Dual Circuit Dia MC: Stock with vacuum booster
Chassis: Stock
Subframe Connectors: Not yet
Torque Boxes: Not yet
Roll bar, Roll Cage: Nope
Aftermarket stiffeners: Nope
Comments: On the To-Do list: Borgeson steering box, change from a Federal to a Saginaw pump, US Car Tool complete stiffener kit, seam weld, QA1 K-frame and lower control arms, Hotchkis TVS, Dr Diff 13" front Brembo brake kit and 11.7" rear Cobra brakes, engine refresh (500-512 stroker?) with Milodon road race pan, 440 source Stealth heads, rewire car with American Auto Wire Auto Update kit.
1. Best above improvement: Going from the 14" Enkei wheels to 15" Weld Draglites. Then after 12 years on the same BFG Radial TA tires, stepping up to the 18's and new rubber
2. Least effective above improvement: Everything that I have done so far has been at least some improvement.
3. Next improvement: Engine refresh, I'm getting some blow by
4. Above car handles IMO on a 1-10 ( 10 best Z06, 1 yugo): I get a lot of compliments for having stock suspension, so maybe a 5.
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Re: Should we have Suspension Modification Register?
[Re: jcc]
#1156406
07/24/14 01:54 AM
07/24/14 01:54 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,721
Eugene, OR
FuryBoy
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,721
Eugene, OR
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Entry/Update Date: 7/23/14
Model: Dodge
Year: Challenger
Weight: Wet w/driver 3600 lbs give or take
Application: this is a pleasure car, we DRIVE it. It see's drag duty a few times a year, I just want to handle better than stock
Engine Package: mild 360 for now, 340 stroker in the works
Estimate HP: 275 RWHP
Trans: 727 with 9.5 inch SMR converter
Speeds: 3
Gears:
RE Ratio: 3.23
RE Type: Sure Grip 8 3/4
Front Tire Size Brand Model: 235/60r15 BFG T/As
Front Rim width: 8
Rear tire Size Brand Model: 245/60r15
Rear Rim Width: 8
TB Dia: 1.06 FF
Coil Rate: 270 sounds right
Front Shocks: KYB
Front Sway bar Dia: stock
Rear Leaf Suspension Model Rate: ESPO 6 leaf
Shocks: KYB
Rear Sway bar Dia: NA for now
Front Brakes: 11.75
Caliper-Pistons: single piston
Rear Brakes: '80s cop car
Drum Size Dia Width: 10x2.5 w/ fins
MC: manual LW from Dr Diff
Subframe Connectors: Auto Rust Tech
Torque Boxes: Resto Rick boxes, currently only the fronts
Comments: FF stage II power box, C body tie rods, boxed LCAs,
Moog offset bushings in the UCA, poly urethane bushings through out the rest.
1. Best above improvement: big T bars
3. Next improvement tires and wheels, have some 17 inch wheels, but not sure what tires to run. Also, adding a bigger front sway bar and a rear. Debating between FF and Hotchkis
4. Above car handles IMO on a 1-10 ( 10 best Z06, 1 yugo): 5-6
Comments: I feel like the car may have some bump steer. I need to adjust the distribution on the brakes some, the rears want to lock up first. The steering box wants to return with more power from turning right than when turning left. I need to adjust that. Also, I feel that I may have some bump steer. No sure how to address that.
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Re: Should we have Suspension Modification Register?
[Re: jcc]
#1818628
05/04/15 04:07 PM
05/04/15 04:07 PM
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Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,526
North Carolina
cjskotni
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,526
North Carolina
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Entry/Update Date: 5/4/15
Model: 1973 Charger SE "P-code"
Year: 1973
Weight: ~3800 lbs
Application: Restomod, daily driver
Engine Package briefly: 400>>499 stroker, 10.4:1 compression, very mild cam (.480" lift), Eddy RPMs, headers, MP hi rise single plane intake, Holley 8150 850CFM, roller rockers
Estimate HP: RWHP 420ish@5200RPM, RWTQ 470ish@4200RPM
Trans: 727 Auto, 2400 stall TC
Speeds: 3
Gears: 3
RE Ratio: 3.55
RE Type: Auburn limited slip
Front Tire Size Brand Model: Cooper Cobra 245/60-15
Front Rim width: 8"
Rear tire Size Brand Model: Cooper Cobra P275/60R15
Rear Rim Width: 8"
Aftermarket Front End brand: n/a
TB Dia: 1.06" FF
Coil Rate:
Front Shocks: Bilstien
Front Sway bar Dia: 1-1/8" PST
Rear Leaf Suspension Model Rate:
Shocks: Bilstiens
Rear Sway bar Dia: 3/4" Adco
Front Brakes: OEM disc
Rotor Dia Width:
Caliper-Pistons:
Cooling Ducts:
Rear Brakes: SSBC disc conversion
Drum Size Dia Width:
Rotor Dia:
Rotor width:
Caliper- Pistons :
Parking Brake: OEM with SSBC rear parking brake int w/ caliper
Dual Circuit Dia MC: MP aluminum 4-bolt master cylinder, GM 4wheel disc prop valve
Chassis:
Subframe Connectors: n/a
Torque Boxes: n/a
Roll bar, Roll Cage: n/a
Aftermarket stiffeners: poly bushings/body mounts all around, FF stage 3 steering box
Comments:
1. Best above improvement: steering box, torsion bars
2. Least effective above improvement
3. Next improvement
4. Above car handles IMO on a 1-10 ( 10 best Z06, 1 yugo): 7/10 used to be about a 3
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Re: Should we have Suspension Modification Register?
[Re: jcc]
#1820768
05/07/15 12:00 AM
05/07/15 12:00 AM
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Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 18,493
Granite Bay CA
Kern Dog
Striving for excellence
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Striving for excellence
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 18,493
Granite Bay CA
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Maybe a good time to [/i]update[i] my info:
[b][/b]
Model: 1970 Dodge Charger
Weight: Dry, Wet w/driver Do not know.
Application: Show, Autocross, Track, Race
Engine Package briefly: 440 based 493. 10.0 CR. Edelbrock heads, ported. 2" TTI headers. 850 4 barrel Lunati solid lifter cam
Estimate HP: FW or RWHP No dyno test on current combo.
Trans: 727 with 11" converter with 2600 stall (Approx)
RE Ratio: 66-67 8 3/4" with 3.55 gears, '489 case with clutch type SG.
Front Tire Size Brand Model: 275-40-18 Nitto 555
Front Rim width: 18x9"
Rear tire Size Brand Model: 295-40-18 Nitto 555
Rear Rim Width: 18x10"
TB Dia: 1.15 from BAC
Coil Rate:
Front Shocks: Bilstein RCD
Front Sway bar Dia: 1.25 solid. Modified GM truck unit from a mid 70s 1 ton 2wd.
Rear Leaf Suspension Model Rate: MP HD with 6 leafs each side
Shocks: Bilstein RCD
Rear Sway bar Dia: 3/4" frame hung, OEM from 1983 Chrysler Imperial
Front Brakes: 1976 Cordoba 11.75 Unicast rotors, 2.75 single piston calipers from 88 Diplomat.
Rear Brakes: Dr Diff 11" disc kit using Toyota rotors, Mustang Cobra calipers.
Parking Brake: Yes
Dual Circuit Dia MC: 15/16" with power assist.
Chassis:
Subframe Connectors: 3x3 box tubing welded into place
Torque Boxes: Custom made, front and rear
Roll bar, Roll Cage: None
Aftermarket stiffeners: Welded K member
Comments:
1. Best improvement: Front end rebuild! Stock suspension had 135,000 miles on it when I bought the car. Currently I have rubber LCA bushings, Moog rubber UCA bushings and urethane strut rod bushings.
2. Least effective improvement: Hard to determine.
3. Next improvement: Tires!
4. Above car handles IMO on a 1-10 ( 10 best Z06, 1 yugo): 7
For years I dealt with an oversteer condition. I liked how flat and level the car stayed in the turns but the twitchy feel made it hard to feel confident if I wanted to press it hard into a turn. I was running a 7/8" axle hung Addco rear sway bar. I tried rubber end link bushings, tire pressure changes and it still wasn't right. I recently switched to a smaller rear bar; a 3/4" frame hung version that came stock on an 83 Imperial. The car felt better but still wasn't neutral. Last week I installed bigger torsion bars, out went the 1.0 and in went the 1.15s. I also changed the shocks at the same time from KYBs to Bilsteins. The ride improved, the oversteer went away and the car is much more fun to drive. The car has enough power to kick the tail out if I feel I need to. I no longer have to coast or brake through the turns to avoid drifting!
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Re: Should we have Suspension Modification Register?
[Re: jcc]
#2221446
12/27/16 12:05 AM
12/27/16 12:05 AM
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Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12,375
SoCal
MuuMuu101
I got lucky at Woodward!
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I got lucky at Woodward!
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12,375
SoCal
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Entry/Update Date: - December 26, 2016
Model: - 1968 Dodge Dart GT
Weight: - Somewhere around 3200-3400 lbs, maybe.
Application: Weekend Car/Autocrosser/Road Racer/etc.
ENGINE / TRANS / REAR AXLE
Engine Package briefly: - 408ci Engine built by IMM Engines
Estimate HP: - 523 hp and 522 ft-lbs of torque at the crank
Trans: - T56 Magnum (driving it and doing the math, it may not be the close ratio)
RE Ratio/Type: - 3.55:1 w/ Eaton TrueTrac
WHEELS
Front Wheels: - 18 x 9" Mickey Thompson SC-5 w/ +32 mm offset (and 5 mm spacer)
Front Tires : - 255/40/18 Michelin Super Sport
Rear Wheels: - 18 x 9" Mickey Thompson SC-5 w/ +22 mm offset (and 5 mm spacer)
Rear Tires : - 255/40/18 Michelin Super Sport
FRONT SUSPENSION
Aftermarket Front End brand: - Hotchkis TVS
Bushing material: - Polyurethane
TB Dia: - 1.06" Firm Feel T-bars
Front Shocks: - Fox Adjustable
Front Sway bar Dia: - Hotchkis 1-1/2"
UCA upgrades / type / brand - Hotchkis
LCA upgrades / type / brand - Reinforced plate
REAR SUSPENSION
Rear Leaf Suspension Model Rate: - Hotchkis
Bushing material: - Polyurethane
Shocks: - Fox Adjustable
Rear Sway bar Dia: - Hotchkis 1" Hollow
BRAKES
Front Brakes: - Dr Diff Stage 4
Rotor Dia / Width: - 13" / 1.25"
Caliper-Pistons: - 1.5' / 1.625"
Cooling Ducts: Not yet, but soon
Brake pad material / brand - Whatever Cass gave me.
Rear Brakes: - Dr Diff 11.75" kit
Parking Brake: - Stock
Brake pad/shoe material / brand - Whatever Cass gave me.
Dual Circuit Dia MC: - 1-1/32" 1980 Dodge Aspen
Brake Fluid DoT 3, 4, 5, 5.1 Other - 4
STEERING
Power / Manual - Power
Box or Rack / type - Borgeson PS Box
Steering pump - KRC PS pump
Pitman-/idler arm ratio - stock
Tie-rod diameter - stock
ALIGNMENT SPECS
Caster - 4-5 deg. (guesstimate)
Camber - 4-5 deg. (guesstimate)
Toe setting IN/OUT - 1/16" IN
Ride height change from stock, FRONT - 1-2" lower
Ride height change from stock, REAR - 1" lower
CHASSIS / FRAME
Chassis: - stock but heavily reinforced
Subframe Connectors: - Hotchkis with extra bracing to torsion bar brace.
Torque Boxes: - none
Roll bar, Roll Cage: - Custom six-point cage with swing-out doors.
Other / Aftermarket stiffeners: - Beefed up Torsion bar brace and trans brace.
COMMENTS: - It's a fun car
1. Best above improvement(s): - Chassis Stiffening
2. Least effective above improvement - None
3. Next improvement - Trying to fit 275/35/18 tires all the way around. Larger T-bars.
4a. Above car handles IMO on a 1-10 ( 10 best Z06, 1 yugo): 9
4b. Above car handles IMO compared to a similar car of same buildyear: 1 Million
 
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