Should we have Suspension Modification Register?
#1156358
01/13/12 01:49 PM
01/13/12 01:49 PM
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 23,694 Here
jcc
OP
No soup for you!!!
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OP
No soup for you!!!
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 23,694
Here
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Entry/Update Date: Model: Year: Weight: Dry, Wet w/driver Application: Show, Daily Driver, Drag, Autocross, Track, Race Engine Package briefly: Estimate HP: FW or RWHP Trans: Speeds:Gears: RE Ratio: RE Type: Sure Grip, Detroit, Spool, Open Front Tire Size Brand Model: Front Rim width: Rear tire Size Brand Model: Rear Rim Width: Aftermarket Front End brand: TB Dia: Coil Rate: Front Shocks: Front Sway bar Dia:Rear Leaf Suspension Model Rate: Shocks: Rear Sway bar Dia:Front Brakes: Rotor Dia Width: Caliper-Pistons: Cooling Ducts: Rear Brakes:Drum Size Dia Width: Rotor Dia: Rotor width: Caliper- Pistons :Parking Brake: Dual Circuit Dia MC: Chassis: Subframe Connectors: Torque Boxes: Roll bar, Roll Cage: Aftermarket stiffeners: Comments:1. Best above improvement:2. Least effective above improvement 3. Next improvement 4. Above car handles IMO on a 1-10 ( 10 best Z06, 1 yugo):
Add a picture here.
I'm just throwing this idea out there. This is not the post for, mainly IMO how we would set it up. So slam away.
Anyway, unlike the competitive 1/4 mile, roundy crowd, corner guys seem to have no aversion to sharing there knowledge, discoveries, and modifications, likely since few of us line up against each other.
So I would think it would extremely helpful and efficient if we had a "standard" template/format to list our chassis mods, car, etc. I would think we start an "official post" for each category for a bodies, B Bodies, C bodies, E bodies, Others, late models, etc.
Below are items I would like to know :
Entry/Update Date: Model: Year: Application: Show, Hobby, daily Driver, 1/4 mile, Mixed, Track days, Road Race, Autocross Engine: (Briefly) Estimate HP: Trans Gears RA Ratio Sure Grip Spool Detroit
Front Tire Size Brand Model Front Rim width Rear tire Size Brand Model Rear Rim Width
Front TB Dia Aftermarket Front End brand Coil Rate Front Shocks ADj Setting Rebound Compression Front Sway bar Dia Urethane bushing where? UCA OEM or aftermarket manufacturer? TR OEM, 11/16 LCA Reinforcement? Caster Camber Toe
Rear Leaf Suspension Model Rate Aftermarket Suspension Shocks Adj Setting Rebound Compression Rear Sway bar Dia
Front Brakes OEM Aftermarket Brand Pad Rotor Dia Width Caliper Pistons Cooling Ducts
Rear Brakes OEM Drum Size Dia Width Aftermarket Brand Pad Rotor Dia Width Caliper Parking Brake OEM None Other
MC OEM Manual Power Dual Circuit Dia Aftermarket MC Proportioning Valve OEM Aftermarket Adj Brake Fluid DoT 3, 4, 5, 5.1 Other ,Brand
Chassis OEM Subframe Connectors Welded Bolted Torque Boxes Roll bar, Roll Cage Aftermarket stiffeners
Comments:
1. Best above improvement:
2. Least effective above improvement
3. Next improvement Likely
4. Above car handles IMO on a 1-10 ( 10 best Z06, 1 yugo):
5. My satisfaction with handing of above car 1-10
Other comments:
Well what do you think? Too soon?
So if you think this has merit make your changes and additions and post below, if we get a consensus, we can start this and have at it. I guess it goes without saying that one car per post, and everyone should free to update their specs and redate their post so others cab follow along.
Last edited by jcc; 01/17/12 06:30 PM.
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Re: Should we have Suspension Mod Register?
[Re: A57_RT ]
#1156361
01/13/12 02:03 PM
01/13/12 02:03 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,598 So Cal
autoxcuda
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,598
So Cal
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ENGINE •SHORT BLOCK: ‘69 340 block, now .030 over. Scat cast crank kit from Brian @Indio Motor and Machine. •BLOCK MODS: Oil passages smoothed and ported to reduce turbulence/cavitation and help flow. Valley smoothed and cleaned up to help oil drain-back. Water jackets/passages meticulously picked clean of rust and slag. •OIL PUMP: Melling high volume. Passages smoothed and matched to rear main cap. •HEADS: Edlebrock. Ported, intake and exhaust matched, combustion chambers matched to block, •VALVE COVERS: Old Cal Custom finned ($40 swap meet) with steel core MP gaskets for good no leak and removable seal •CAM: Comp 274S soild. .502/.511, 236/242 @.050 •ROCKERS: Comp Pro Magnum steel rollers. •INTAKE: Mopar M1 Single plane, changed to squared carb flange, cleaned up plenum, port matched. •CARB: Demon Silver Claw 750 cfm advertised. Firesleeve on pump to carb 3/8" fuel lines •FUEL LINE: 3/8" sender and 3/8" body fuel line. Firesleeve near headers. •IGNITION: MSD E-Curve distributor •OIL PAN: Milodon Road Race/Pro Touring pan developed by Milodon from this project! •Windage Tray: Milodon with Milodon main stud kit •BOLTS AND STUDS: Milodon Made in USA all in house. Heads, Mains, Oil Pan COOLING SYSTEM: •WATER PUMP: Milodon aluminum •RADIATOR: Champion 4 core •CLAMPS: ABA brand hose clamps. Smooth inner liner with flare edges that don't dig into hose. •T-STAT: Milodon brass 160 degree •FAN CLUTCH: Hayden #2765 (short 3 5/16" mounting) •FAN : MP shortened •FLUID: Distilled water, 2 bottles Justice Brothers Radiator Cooling System Protectant with water pump lubricant, 1 bottle Justice Brother Super Radiator Cooler EXHAUST •HEADERS: TTI for ground clearance. Port matched then ceramic coated outside, thremal barrier coating inside. Best quality. •EXHAUST: TTI X-pipe with Super Turbos 2 1/2" and TTI Baracuda stainless tips (not shown in pics below) TRANSMISSION •TRANS: 727 Torqueflite, TCI shift kit, Type F fluid, will hold gear, can downshift, bang-screech •SHIFTER: Worn beat-up B & M Quicksilver that came with car, ratchet action, sometimes a pain •CONVERTER: 2600 stall and fins modded to get some engine braking. •TRANS COOLER: All hard lines. 10x6". REAR END •REAR END: 8 ¾ Sure Grip 3.23:1 BODY •WEIGHT: 3350 lbs without driver and old motor with steel rims on a Grain Scale. Be careful referencing to cars that have not been on a scale •COUPE BODY STYLE: less rear flex, less weight , less weight in rear ( good and bad ), A body Cuda's have very good tire clearences all the way around as compared to other A bodies. •Future plans: Battery relocated to rear, ABS plastic front air dam modified from another car. SUSPENSION •TORSION BARS: 1.14" 320 Lb./ft wheel rate stock .87" 109 Lb./ft, livable, pretty stiff, Hotchkis shocks were key to taming them. •REAR SPRINGS: Hotchkis. Weigh less that stock. •FRONT SWAY BAR: Hotchkis 1 1/4" hollow •REAR SWAY BAR: Hotchkis adjustable ¾" dia. hollow •SHOCKS: Hotchkis Bilstiens •STRUT RODS: Hotchkis tubular with heim ends. Precision articulation. Can set for nice bind-free LCA up and down movement. Holds poly LCA bushing against K-frame •A-ARMS: Hotckis Tubular. Able to dial in any caster desired. •SUBFRAME CONNECTORS: Hotchkis •73-76 K-member: reinforced •STEERING STEERING GEAR: Replacement Mopar remanufactured. Large steering gear spline, crisp, firmer, but not Firm Feel •PITMAN, IDLER, CENTERLINK: all ‘73-‘76 A-body, to accept large spline gear, Moog parts •POWER STEERING PUMP: Saginaw with rear oriface drilled out 1/64 larger. The other Mopar pump will not keep up with rapid steering input and are generally poor. •POWER STEERING FLUID: Justice Brothers heavy duty, don't change often, so extra cost is cheap assurance •POWER STEERING CAP: later style multi knobbed style with rubber baffle to stop spitting up. •Future plans: Adding factory power steering cooler, in-line filter, and braided lines for power steering . BRAKES •PADS: Discontinued Mopar Police Spec Semi Metalic units ($15 swap meet score) •DISKS: 11.75" dia junkyard single piston disks •BRAKE LINES: braided, w/banjo on caliper end for rear caliper placement •BRAKE FLUID: Justice Brothers High Performance Dot 4 •MASTER CYLINDER: Mopar Performance alum. 2 bolt, 1-1/32" bore, firm immediate pedal, feels great, not for your grandma. Started with manual drums. Thicker master cly adapter to adj. pedal height down. Be aware of pushrod length. •PROPORTIONING VALVE: Willwood adjustable, had drum brakes so need some proportioning valve •DRUMS: vented "bell or hat" drums for cooling •REAR AXLES: 4 ½" bolt redrilled pattern •Future plans: AREngineering Brembo 13" dia or similar Willwood, brake ducts WHEELS •15x9 4 1/4" backspace Optima Minilites (needed front fender lipping/bending) 245/50/15 BFG Comp T/A's ZR all around. (That size is totally discontinued) Future plans:17x9 with 275/40/17 all the way around INTERIOR •STEERING WHEEL: LaCarra 15" padded leather, better grip, small dia. gives more responsive feel ($30 never installed swap meet score) •SEATS: Used Toyota Celica GTS increased g’s so need better seats, must race car from drivers side •Future plans: I have one new Scat Pro seat I got for $50 at the swap meet. Would like to find it a mate.
Last edited by autoxcuda; 01/13/12 02:14 PM.
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Re: Should we have Suspension Mod Register?
[Re: jcc]
#1156363
01/13/12 02:16 PM
01/13/12 02:16 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,598 So Cal
autoxcuda
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,598
So Cal
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Quote:
Can you delete all the specs and just list a blank template others can quote?
You mean just use the templete specs you made? Like just fill in the sections you provided?
There's some stuff that's not covered there.
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1974 Plymouth Gold Duster, 225 slant six, automatic
[Re: A57_RT ]
#1156364
01/13/12 02:20 PM
01/13/12 02:20 PM
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,445 Sterling Heights, Michigan 483...
daniel_depetro
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,445
Sterling Heights, Michigan 483...
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Entry/Update Date: #1 / #1 Model: (Gold) Duster Year: 1974 Application (Show, Hobby, daily Driver, 1/4 mile, Mixed, Track days, Road Race, Autocross): Daily driver (in the spring/summer/fall) Engine (Briefly): 225 cubic inch 30 degree slanted six cylinder. Estimated Horsepower & Torque (Crankshaft or Wheel): 105 horsepower & 180 lbs./ft. of torque (OEM Rating for 1974) Transmission: 904 Gears: 3-speed Rear Axle Ratio: 3.55:1 Rear Axle 8-1/4" with 5 x 4.5" bolt pattern Differential: 27 spline Dana/Spicer Trac_Lok clutch type sure-grip Weight: (with or without driver, also note fluid levels) 3,145 lbs. without driver and with the fuel tank & all fluids topped off (I do not have a washer fluid bottle). Front Tire Size, Brand, Model: 165/80R-15" (165R-15") Federal SS-657 Front Rim Width: 4.5" Rear Tire Size, Brand, Model: 255/60R-15" Firestone FireHawk Indy 500 Rear Rim Width: 8.0" Torsion Bar Diameter: .870" Aftermarket Front End Brand: Factory K-member Coil Rate: Front Shocks: Monroe 'Gas-Matic' for Duster 340 ADj Setting Rebound Compression: Front Sway Bar Diameter: None Urethane Bushing(s) (Locations): Rear leaf spring shackle bushings (TRW). Upper Control Arms (OEM or aftermarket manufacturer?): OEM 1973+ A-body Tie Rods & Ends (OEM, 11/16): Moog standard 1973+ A-body replacement Lower Control Arm Reinforcement? None Caster: Camber: Toe: Rear Leaf Suspension Model Rate: Aftermarket Suspension: 5-1/2 leaf springs Shocks: Monroe 'Gas-Matic' for Duster 340 Adj Setting Rebound Compression: N/A Rear Sway Bar Diameter: None Front Brakes: OEM 1973+ A-body Pad Brand: Wagner semi-metallic premium replacement Rotor Diameter & Width Caliper & Pistons: OEM 1973+ A-body; single piston Cooling Ducts: None Rear Brakes: OEM 1993-98 Jeep Grand Cherokee rear disc Drum Size Diameter & Width: N/A Pad Brand: Wagner semi-metallic premium replacement Rotor Diameter & Width: Caliper & Pistons: OEM 1993-98 Jeep Grand Cherokee rear disc; single piston Parking Brake OEM None Other Eliminated Power Booster (OEM Manual Power): Yes; OEM 1973+ A-body Dual Circuit Diameter: 1-1/8" (I think?) Master Cylinder: Lightweight aluminum 2-bolt design Proportioning Valve (OEM or Aftermarket Adj): OEM 1973+ A-body Brake Fluid (DoT 3, 4, 5, 5.1, Other & Brand): Prestone synthetic DOT 3 Chassis: OEM Subframe Connectors (Welded or Bolted): None Torque Boxes: None Roll Bar or Roll Cage: None Aftermarket Stiffeners: None Comments:1. Best Above Improvement: Handling - The H.D. 5-1/2 leaf springs (which came off of my factory Duster 360 4-speed) General - Gear ratio swap 2. Least Effective Above Improvement: The front tires 3. Next Improvement(s): 2" x 3" x 1/8" subframe connectors (I have), Tuff Wheel steering wheel (I have), Firm Feel Inc. sector support kit, Firm feel Inc. idler arm bushing to bearing upgrade/retrofit kit, larger torsion bars (again), US Car Tool front & rear torque boxes, solid weld all the seams on the K-member, solid weld all the seams on the entire car. 4. Above car handles IMO on a 1-10 (10 = best; Z06, 1 = worst; Yugo): 3.5 5. My satisfaction with handing of above car 1-10 (10 = best; Z06, 1 = worst; Yugo): 7.5 Other comments: My ricer buddies think my car handles like a complete turd, my Mopar buddy thinks it handles pretty sweet compared to his 1973 Road Runner 340 4-speed. I guess it's all relative and can be taken with a grain of salt. This car has some decent weight reduction done to it.
1969 Dodge Super Bee A12 (440 Six Pack, 4-speed, Dana 60 4.10)
1972 Plymouth Road Runner (400, 4-speed, 8.75" 3.23)
1974 Plymouth Duster 360 (360, 4-speed, 8.75" 3.23)
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Re: Should we have Suspension Mod Register?
[Re: jcc]
#1156365
01/13/12 02:39 PM
01/13/12 02:39 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,598 So Cal
autoxcuda
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,598
So Cal
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Entry/Update Date: 1/14/2012
Model: Barracuda Formula S 340 Coupe (notchback)
Year: 1968
Application: Show, Hobby, daily Driver, Mixed, Track days, Autocross
Engine: (Briefly) Estimate HP: 450 HP 475 TQ •SHORT BLOCK: ‘69 340 block, now .030 over. Scat cast crank kit from Brian @Indio Motor and Machine. •BLOCK MODS: Oil passages smoothed and ported to reduce turbulence/cavitation and help flow. Valley smoothed and cleaned up to help oil drain-back. Water jackets/passages meticulously picked clean of rust and slag. •OIL PUMP: Melling high volume. Passages smoothed and matched to rear main cap. •HEADS: Edlebrock. Ported, intake and exhaust matched, combustion chambers matched to block, •VALVE COVERS: Old Cal Custom finned ($40 swap meet) with steel core MP gaskets for good no leak and removable seal •CAM: Comp 274S soild. .502/.511, 236/242 @.050 •ROCKERS: Comp Pro Magnum steel rollers. •INTAKE: Mopar M1 Single plane, changed to squared carb flange, cleaned up plenum, port matched. •CARB: Demon Silver Claw 750 cfm advertised. Firesleeve on pump to carb 3/8" fuel lines and Firesleeve near headers. 3/8" line to tank. •EXHAUST: TTI 1 3/4" stepped headers, X-pipe, full TTI to tips. •IGNITION: MSD E-Curve distributor •OIL PAN: Milodon Road Race/Pro Touring pan developed by Milodon from this project! •Windage Tray: Milodon with Milodon main stud kit COOLING SYSTEM: •CLAMPS: ABA brand hose clamps. Smooth inner liner with flare edges that don't dig into hose. •FLUID: Distilled water, 2 bottles Justice Brothers Radiator Cooling System Protectant with water pump lubricant, 1 bottle Justice Brother Super Radiator Cooler
Trans: 727 shift kit
Gears: stock
RE Ratio: 3.23:1
RE Type: Sure Grip
Front Tire Size Brand Model: 245/50/15 BFG Comp T/A
Front Rim width: 9" Rear tire Size Brand Model: 245/50/15 BFG Comp T/A
Rear Rim Width: 9"
Front TB Dia: 1.12"
Aftermarket Front End brand: Hotchkis TVS •TORSION BARS: 1.14" 320 Lb./ft wheel rate Hotchkis shocks were key to taming them. •STRUT RODS: Hotchkis tubular with heim ends. Precision articulation. Can set for nice bind-free LCA up and down movement. Holds poly LCA bushing against K-frame •73-76 K-member: reinforced •STEERING STEERING GEAR: Replacement Mopar remanufactured. Large steering gear spline, crisp, firmer, but not Firm Feel •PITMAN, IDLER, CENTERLINK: all ‘73-‘76 A-body, to accept large spline gear, Moog parts •POWER STEERING PUMP: Saginaw with rear oriface drilled out 1/64 larger. The other Mopar pump will not keep up with rapid steering input and are generally poor. •POWER STEERING FLUID: Justice Brothers heavy duty •POWER STEERING CAP: later style multi knobbed style with rubber baffle to stop spitting up. •Future plans: Adding factory power steering cooler, in-line filter, and braided lines for power steering
Coil Rate: NOPE
Front Shocks: Hotchkis Bilstein RCD ADj Setting Rebound Compression: No
Front Sway bar Dia: 1 1/2"? Hotchkis
Urethane bushing where? All where applicable
UCA OEM or aftermarket manufacturer? Hotchkis
TR OEM, 11/16: Hotchkis
LCA Reinforcement? Three 1" bridge straps so as not to create more unsprung weight wasting material.
Caster: 5 deg pos
Camber: 1.5 deg neg
Toe: 1 1/32
Rear Leaf Suspension Model Rate: Hotchkis Aftermarket Suspension: Hotchkis leaf spring with mid eyes, top leaf for brake hop, two supporting lower leaf that go to front eye. Factory front spring hanger because my small dia tires make the car too low for Hotchkis dropped hanger.
Shocks: Hotchkis Bilstein RCD
Adj Setting Rebound Compression: No
Rear Sway bar Dia: Hotchkis 3/4 hollow
Front Brakes: OEM Aftermarket Brand Pad: Mopar HD Police Spec Metalic
Rotor Dia Width: stock type 12"
Caliper Pistons: Pin type single piston
Cooling Ducts: not yet
Rear Brakes OEM: OEM
Drum Size Dia Width: 10x 1 3/4"
Aftermarket Brand Pad: Raybestos
Parking Brake: OEM MC OEM Manual Power
Dual Circuit Dia Aftermarket MC: MP 1 1/32 aluminum
Proportioning Valve OEM Aftermarket Adj: Adjustable Willwood
Brake Fluid DoT 3, 4, 5, 5.1 Other ,Brand: Justice Brothers DOT 4
Chassis: OEM
Subframe Connectors: Hotchkis Welded
Torque Boxes: No
Roll bar, Roll Cage: No
Aftermarket stiffeners: No
Comments:
1. Best above improvement: .99 T-bars. Hotchkis Bilstien shocks when I went to 1.12 T-bars.
2. Least effective above improvement
3. Next improvement Likely Right Stuff 13" Front and rear disk Brakes and 17x9 rims with 275/40/17 tires. Brake ducts. 65-67 B-body rear end with oil control improvements. Front air dam/spoiler
4. Above car handles IMO on a 1-10 ( 10 best Z06, 1 yugo): 6-7. My old old hard tires stink. And my brakes are glazed over.
5. My satisfaction with handing of above car 1-10) It's never enough... 7
Other comments:
Last edited by autoxcuda; 01/13/12 03:34 PM.
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Re: Should we have Suspension Mod Register?
[Re: daniel_depetro]
#1156366
01/13/12 02:43 PM
01/13/12 02:43 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,598 So Cal
autoxcuda
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,598
So Cal
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Quote:
...
Other comments:
1974 Plymouth Gold Duster ...
There are no suspension or handling mods done to this car. So why list it?
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Re: Should we have Suspension Mod Register?
[Re: autoxcuda]
#1156367
01/13/12 03:06 PM
01/13/12 03:06 PM
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,445 Sterling Heights, Michigan 483...
daniel_depetro
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,445
Sterling Heights, Michigan 483...
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Quote:
...
Other comments:
1974 Plymouth Gold Duster ...
Quote:
There are no suspension or handling mods done to this car. So why list it?
My apologies, I didn't realize this was only for people who have $30k+ into aftermarket parts on their car(s).
1969 Dodge Super Bee A12 (440 Six Pack, 4-speed, Dana 60 4.10)
1972 Plymouth Road Runner (400, 4-speed, 8.75" 3.23)
1974 Plymouth Duster 360 (360, 4-speed, 8.75" 3.23)
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Re: Should we have Suspension Mod Register?
[Re: autoxcuda]
#1156369
01/13/12 04:49 PM
01/13/12 04:49 PM
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,445 Sterling Heights, Michigan 483...
daniel_depetro
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,445
Sterling Heights, Michigan 483...
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Quote:
My apologies, for being to harsh. But you didn't list any plans for future suspension mods. I see a baseline but no listed interest in suspension mods.
No need to apologize, I have thick skin. I've been into Mopars for nearly 30 years, and one of my favorites are the 1973-74 Dusters. I also have an interest in the six cylinder cars. Needless to say 6-cyl. later model A-bodies were always the low car on the totem pole so to speak so it's a good thing I could care less about what others think of my cars/interests.
Quote:
You don't need $30K in parts to do mods. What suspension handling mods are you looking to do? What is your budget? You could do a lot for $500. Especially if you hunt for the right used parts like you do.
I did add a few future mods I will be making if that improves things. I will be picking a few things up as the deals present themselves. I'm not out to set any records or have a track day car. I just want something that handles better than when it was new, keeps the factory appearance, and most importantly retains the overall factory feel and ride quality of the car(s).
1969 Dodge Super Bee A12 (440 Six Pack, 4-speed, Dana 60 4.10)
1972 Plymouth Road Runner (400, 4-speed, 8.75" 3.23)
1974 Plymouth Duster 360 (360, 4-speed, 8.75" 3.23)
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Re: Should we have Suspension Mod Register?
[Re: daniel_depetro]
#1156370
01/13/12 05:36 PM
01/13/12 05:36 PM
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 6,445 Missouri
68KillerBee
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 6,445
Missouri
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Quote:
Quote:
My apologies, for being to harsh. But you didn't list any plans for future suspension mods. I see a baseline but no listed interest in suspension mods.
No need to apologize, I have thick skin. I've been into Mopars for nearly 30 years, and one of my favorites are the 1973-74 Dusters. I also have an interest in the six cylinder cars. Needless to say 6-cyl. later model A-bodies were always the low car on the totem pole so to speak so it's a good thing I could care less about what others think of my cars/interests.
Quote:
You don't need $30K in parts to do mods. What suspension handling mods are you looking to do? What is your budget? You could do a lot for $500. Especially if you hunt for the right used parts like you do.
I did add a few future mods I will be making if that improves things. I will be picking a few things up as the deals present themselves. I'm not out to set any records or have a track day car. I just want something that handles better than when it was new, keeps the factory appearance, and most importantly retains the overall factory feel and ride quality of the car(s).
So contradicting and quick to pull the I've been into mopars for x amount of years. Why do people say this all the time, is it like street cred? You want to have the factory feel and ride quality of the car(s), then you are in the wrong section.
I'll come back through this and put my car in when I have some free time so I didn't just add another post to the thread. Mines pretty stock and I think my next big buy will be the front/rear sway bars from Hotchkis.
Entry/Update Date:
Model: Super Bee
Year: 1968
Weight: Dry, Wet w/driver (dont know)
Application: Show and daily driver when it is nice out. 19k miles since 2006. Hope to bring it out to the track this year
Engine Package briefly: ~9.5:1 compression 383. .060 over with edelbrock performer 383 intake and a Holley 750 with vacuum advance. Hi-rev electronic ignition ecu. Cam is from pbm..stats: Adv. Dur. .050 Dur Int 284 218 Exh 284 218 Valve Lift Int. .458 exh .458 Lobe Sep. 110
Estimate HP: 335? Trans: 23 spline 4 speed
Speeds: frequently
Gears: 3.55 RE Type: Sure Grip
Front Tire Size Brand Model: 235/60/14 BFG radial t/a Front Rim width: 6 inches Rear tire Size Brand Model: 295/50/15 BFG radial t/a Rear Rim Width: 10 inches
Aftermarket Front End brand: Stock
Front Shocks: autozone special
Front Sway bar Dia: stock
Rear Leaf Suspension Model Rate: stock
Shocks: air shocks
Rear Sway bar Dia: stock
Front Brakes: 11 inch drums
Rear Brakes: 11 inch drums
Drum Size Dia Width:
Parking Brake: it works
Comments: Basically all a stock rebuild, now working on suspension and brakes. The car hooks really good and I hope to take it to the track this spring. Combination of the big tires out back and cheapo shocks up front seem to be the real reason for it hooking good (or its just not as fast as i think).
1. Best above improvement:
2. Least effective above improvement
3. Next improvement: First major improvement will be front and rear sway bars from Hotchkis. Hope to get that on by spring. Next will be brakes. Dreaming of a 5 speed passon transmission when those come out and then bigger (17inch?) magnum 500's...
4. Above car handles IMO on a 1-10 ( 10 best Z06, 1 yugo): 3
Last edited by 68Killerbee; 01/18/12 02:52 PM.
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Re: Should we have Suspension Mod Register?
[Re: autoxcuda]
#1156371
01/13/12 05:40 PM
01/13/12 05:40 PM
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 21,345 Marysville, O-H-I-O
70Cuda383
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 21,345
Marysville, O-H-I-O
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Entry/Update Date: 1/14/2012
Model: Dodge Dakota Sport, Regular cab, 2wd
Year: 1998
Application: Fun driving!
Engine: 5.9L Magnum. Stock rebuild bottom end. Heads shaved .030 1008 fel-pros (.039" vs .054" stock gaskets) Hughes Whiplash cam 222/228 @ .050, .544 lift, 107LSA M1 2bbl intake Edelbrock shorty headers SCT tune on stock PCM, rest of EFI system is stock
285 hp, 325 tq to the rear wheels
Trans: NV3500 5-spd manual 3.48:1 first gear 2.16:1 second gear 1.40:1 third gear 1:1 fourth gear .73:1 fifth gear
Hurst short-throw shifter mechanism w B-body pistol grip shifter handle
Gears: stock
RE Ratio: 3.92:1
RE Type: Sure Grip
Front Tire Size Brand Model: 255/55/17 Khumo Ecsta
Front Rim width: 9"
Rear tire Size Brand Model: 255/55/17 Khumo Ecsta
Rear Rim Width: 9"
Aftermarket Front End brand: Hotchkis 2" loweing springs
Coil Rate: around 910? 920? I don't remember
Front Shocks: Beltech street performance shocks for a lowered Dakota
Front Sway bar Dia: 1 1/2" Hotchkis
Rear Leaf Suspension Model Rate: Hotchkis 3" lowering leaf spring
Shocks: Beltech street performance for lowered Dakota
Rear Sway bar Dia: 15/16" Hotchkis
Front Brakes: OEM
Rotor Dia Width: stock type 11"
Caliper Pistons: Pin type single piston
Cooling Ducts: no
Rear Brakes OEM: OEM
Drum Size Dia Width: 10x 1 3/4"
Parking Brake: OEM
Dual Circuit Dia OEM MC: 15/16" aluminum
Chassis: OEM
Subframe Connectors: NA -- full frame truck
Torque Boxes: No
Roll bar, Roll Cage: No
Aftermarket stiffeners: No
Comments:
1. Best above improvement: Hotchkis sway bars
2. Least effective above improvement Tires. these things are like driving on ice. flat out suck! back end kicks out in 2nd gear all the time. however, these tires are new to me, maybe they're better when its warm out. only driven it while surface temps were 40 or less.
3. Next improvement Viper brakes front and rear: 13" rotors all the way around, 4 piston fixed caliper up front, single piston floating caliper in the rear. (parts sitting in garage, I dont want to install them until I can get a good baseline test of the stock brakes--repeated 60-0 stops measuring distance, fade, temps, etc. to compare the improvements with the Viper parts)
4. Above car handles IMO on a 1-10 ( 10 best Z06, 1 yugo): 7.5 It's easy to forget that it's a 4,000 lb truck with how well it grips through corners.
Last edited by 70Cuda383; 01/13/12 05:44 PM.
**Photobucket sucks**
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Re: Should we have Suspension Mod Register?
[Re: 70Cuda383]
#1156372
01/14/12 12:58 PM
01/14/12 12:58 PM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,123 Seaford Delaware
JSR1485
super stock
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super stock
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,123
Seaford Delaware
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Entry/Update Date: 1/14/2012
Model: 340 Duster H code car
Year: 1970 Application: Driving & possibe Auto Cross
Engine: 360 .030 over Keith black 190 pistons 360 heads 70cc 2.02 intake 1.60 exhaust mild porting Cam Soild Crane cam 540/560 adv duration 284/294 Comp Steel roller rockers LD340 intake Kevco oil pan & pickup 6qt Hooker headers-3" full exhaust with X pipe Eagle SIR rods Mopar Performace HD cast Crank stock stroke 400HP-car went 11.80's as drag car
Trans: Passion Performace A833 street slick shifted 4 speed Hurst super shifter Gears: stock Mopar 1969 vintage
RE Ratio: 3.23:1
RE Type: Eaton tru-trac
Front Tire Size Brand Model: 245/50/17 Nitto Front Rim width: 8"
Rear tire Size Brand Model: 275/50/17 Nitto Rear Rim Width: 8"
Aftermarket Front End brand: Hotchkis Adjustable strut arms,Magnum force Heim end tubular control arm, 9/16 Firm Feel sleves and tie rod ends ,re-inforced and rewelded K-Frame-Firm Feel greaseable lower control arm pins, .990 torsion bars,
Front Shocks: QA1 12 way adjustable
Front Sway bar Dia: 1 1/2" Hellwig
Rear Leaf Suspension Model Rate: Hotchkis
Shocks: QA1 12 way adjustable Rear Sway bar Dia: 15/16" Hellwig Front Brakes: Wilwood Rotor Dia Width: 11"
Caliper Pistons: 4 piston Cooling Ducts: no
Rear Brakes Right Stuff -rear disc converson Drum Size Dia Width: 10" rotor with parking brake
Parking Brake: OEM
Dual Circuit Dia OEM MC: 15/16" aluminum
Chassis: OEM
Subframe Connectors: Weld in Torque Boxes: yes Roll bar, Roll Cage: No
Aftermarket stiffeners: Magnum Force front chassis stiffer kit Comments: Still in progress hoping to have done soon was transformed from Race car back to street car with all new florr pans.
1. Best above improvement: ?
Switched to the dark side...
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Re: Should we have Suspension Mod Register?
[Re: JSR1485]
#1156373
01/14/12 01:04 PM
01/14/12 01:04 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,598 So Cal
autoxcuda
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,598
So Cal
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Quote:
RE Type: Eaton tru-trac
Can/Have you experianced any noticable differences between a Tru-Trac (Torsen type) diff than a Clutch or Cone type?
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Re: Should we have Suspension Mod Register?
[Re: autoxcuda]
#1156374
01/14/12 02:04 PM
01/14/12 02:04 PM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,123 Seaford Delaware
JSR1485
super stock
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super stock
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,123
Seaford Delaware
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Not yet I am still in progess of building the car I will sure let you know when I drive it
Switched to the dark side...
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Re: Should we have Suspension Mod Register?
[Re: 68KillerBee]
#1156375
01/14/12 02:24 PM
01/14/12 02:24 PM
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,445 Sterling Heights, Michigan 483...
daniel_depetro
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,445
Sterling Heights, Michigan 483...
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Quote:
So contradicting and quick to pull the I've been into mopars for x amount of years. Why do people say this all the time, is it like street cred?
How is that contradicting? It's simply stating fact. It has nothing to do with street cred. Re-read the following sentence after the one you are referring to. I may not have lived in the "glory years", however I do remember the 1980's - 90's when Mopar guys were the butt end of all the jokes and were a die hard few (and far between). This was the point I was attempting to make by those sentences you're referencing: It takes a special type of person to be into Mopars, especially back when the aftermarket was very slim pickings. Even within the small Mopar community it seems that the late A-bodies (as well as some others) have been looked down upon as a lesser car. Throw in a slant six powertrain and somehow you must not be a real muscle car enthusiast. I've been into some of these non-high performance 'muscle' cars for quite some time. During that time I've heard it all from many sides. I do it because I love it, not to gain the approval of others. If you do not like how I set my car up, tuff nubs.
Quote:
You want to have the factory feel and ride quality of the car(s), then you are in the wrong section.
Fair enough.
1969 Dodge Super Bee A12 (440 Six Pack, 4-speed, Dana 60 4.10)
1972 Plymouth Road Runner (400, 4-speed, 8.75" 3.23)
1974 Plymouth Duster 360 (360, 4-speed, 8.75" 3.23)
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Re: Should we have Suspension Mod Register?
[Re: jcc]
#1156376
01/14/12 06:04 PM
01/14/12 06:04 PM
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Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 4,302 Nebraska
72Swinger
master
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master
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 4,302
Nebraska
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Entry/Update Date:01/14/12 Model:Dart Swinger Special Year:1972 Application: Show, Hobby, daily Driver, 1/4 mile, Mixed, Track days, Road Race, Autocross all of those with some luck Engine: (Briefly)451B Estimate HP:475 Trans Viper T56 Gears RA Ratio 4.10 Sure Grip Spool Detroit clutch Sure Grip
Front Tire Size 275/35/18 Brand Nitto Model NT555 Front Rim width 18x9 Rear tire Size 335/30/18 Brand Toyo Model RA1 Rear Rim Width 18x10
Front TB Dia .890 Aftermarket Front End brand Coil Rate Front Shocks Monroe ADj Setting Rebound Compression Front Sway bar Dia 1.5" Hotchkis Urethane bushing where? Lower CA and swaybar UCA OEM or aftermarket manufacturer? RMS TR OEM, 11/16 oem LCA Reinforcement? Yes Caster +5.5 Camber -.75 Toe 1/8" in
Rear Leaf Suspension Yes Model Mopar Circle trak +1 Rate 130lb/in? Aftermarket Suspension Shocks Monroe Adj Setting Rebound Compression Rear Sway bar Dia
Front Brakes OEM tes Aftermarket Brand Pad Rotor Dia 11.75 Width Caliper Oem Pistons Cooling Ducts someday
Rear Brakes OEM yes Drum Size Dia 11" Width 2" Aftermarket Brand Pad Rotor Dia Width Caliper Parking Brake OEM None Other
MC OEM Manual Power 15/16 Dr Diff Dual Circuit Dia Aftermarket MC Proportioning Valve OEM Aftermarket Adj oem Brake Fluid DoT 3, 4, 5, 5.1 Other ,Brand Valvoline dot 4
Chassis OEM Subframe Connectors Welded Bolted Welded Torque Boxes Roll bar, Roll Cage Aftermarket stiffeners Rad support, fender braces
Comments:
1. Best above improvement: Hotchkis swaybar
2. Least effective above improvement
3. Next improvement Likely Bilstein shocks and bigger tbars and rear swaybar
4. Above car handles IMO on a 1-10 ( 10 best Z06, 1 yugo):6.5
5. My satisfaction with handing of above car 1-10 5
Other comments:Flmaing River manual 16:1 box, glass hood,valance and scoop.
Mopar to the bone!!!
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Re: Should we have Suspension Mod Register?
[Re: 70Cuda383]
#1156377
01/14/12 10:09 PM
01/14/12 10:09 PM
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 23,694 Here
jcc
OP
No soup for you!!!
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OP
No soup for you!!!
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 23,694
Here
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Entry/Update Date:
Model:
Year:
Weight: Dry, Wet w/driver
Application: Show, Daily Driver, Drag, Autocross, Track, Race
Engine Package briefly:
Estimate HP: FW or RWHP
Trans:
Speed:
Gears:
RE Ratio:
RE Type: Sure Grip, Detroit, Spool, Open
Front Tire Size Brand Model:
Front Rim width:
Rear tire Size Brand Model:
Rear Rim Width:
Aftermarket Front End brand:
Coil Rate:
Front Shocks:
Front Sway bar Dia:
Rear Leaf Suspension Model Rate: Shocks:
Rear Sway bar Dia:
Front Brakes: Rotor Dia Width:
Caliper-Pistons:
Cooling Ducts:
Rear Brakes :
Drum Size Dia Width:
Rotor Dia:
Rotor width :[/b}
[b} Caliper- Pistons :
Parking Brake:
Dual Circuit Dia MC:
Chassis:
Subframe Connectors:
Torque Boxes:
Roll bar, Roll Cage:
Aftermarket stiffeners:
Comments:
1. Best above improvement:
2. Least effective above improvement
3. Next improvement
4. Above car handles IMO on a 1-10 ( 10 best Z06, 1 yugo):
I'm with Helmuth Hübener, and no soup is being served today.
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