Re: need info on how to put a 383 in my 47
[Re: mopar or nocar]
#1133648
12/18/11 11:45 PM
12/18/11 11:45 PM
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Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 2 Washington, USA
41dodge
member
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member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 2
Washington, USA
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Working on the early Mopars are a little challenging, Joshua. I'm building up a 41 Dodge Custom Deluxe Coupe. 69' 440 Six Pack w/ Stage 6 aluminum heads, built A518 trans (I have a 97 Viper six speed that was originally going in it but my wife now can't drive a stick - bad knees), 70 Duster 8 3/4" SureGrip w/ 3.55s in a 41 housing and I'm partially using a 92 Dakota chassis. I bought a running truck for $500. I ran into a gentleman from Vancouver, B.C. that had a 41 only it had a 408 small block in it and he used the Dakota front clip. I'm using most of the frame but building my own back half as I'm planning on tubbing mine. Work is slow going due to a combination of $$, my disability plus the weather hasn't been cooperating. Difficult to work outside when the weather is in the teens and twenties. Hope to have a shop built next year.
I used to race Mopars in the 60's and 70's, my first racer was a 64 Plymouth w/ a Stage III 426, 4 speed and the aluminum front end (wish I still had that one. My ex sold it on me without consulting me.) I then got a 68 Roadrunner that I built up. I'd eat 440's all day and even some hemis occasionally.
Anyway, I'm now trying to marry my two loves, Mopar musclecars and streetrods. I'm planning on painting it like an old cop car. I have the bubblegum red light for the roof and the siren that came from the 56' Ford that belonged to the Longview, WA chief of police. I bought a set of cable remote mirrors off of a 70' Cuda. I'll add some pictures but I just got this new laptop and need to transfer my pics over.
41Dodge (a.k.a. Vic)
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Re: need info on how to put a 383 in my 47
[Re: mopar or nocar]
#1133649
12/19/11 01:10 AM
12/19/11 01:10 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,559 Freeport IL USA
poorboy
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,559
Freeport IL USA
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Quote:
i have a 47 special deluxe, and am wanting to put a 383 motor and tranny out of my 70 fury. can i use the whole front end of the fury or what should i do. all knowledge and info is welcome. thank you!
I think you are going to find the Fury front frame rails are wider then the frame rails on your 47 at the point you will want to splice them together. The front tire track on the Fury might be a bit wide as well, it will put the tires at the edge of the fenders, I believe. A tape measure will tell you a lot more then we will be able to tell you.
The important measurements will be: Compare the track width (being too wide is more difficult to deal with). The distance between the spindle center line and the firewall. The relationship between the motor, the front cross member, and the firewall. The relationship between the two frames at the merge point. If you use the Fury frame, you will likely need to have the splice/merge point behind the rear torsion bar cross member, or you will need to figure out a way to mount the torsion bar cross member to the 47 frame.
A 90 and older 5 bolt Dakota frame fits these cars very well and maintains the same wheel bolt pattern. The 6 bolt Dakota frames to 96 fit also, but the wheels may be an issue. I have not heard how the 97 & newer Dakota match up. Gene
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Re: need info on how to put a 383 in my 47
[Re: mopar or nocar]
#1133651
12/20/11 10:33 PM
12/20/11 10:33 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,559 Freeport IL USA
poorboy
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,559
Freeport IL USA
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My current 48 is sitting on a complete (though shortened 8") Dakota frame (standard cab, long box, 124" wheel base). The rear of Dakota frame kicks up pretty high at the rear axle and remains high to the end of the frame, if you use the whole frame, major modification will be required to the floor pan from the axle kick up to the rear bumper.
At one time I started putting a Dakota front frame on a 39 Plymouth (same basic frame as the 46-48 except it still had the X trans crossmember) and the Dakota frame slid inside the original frame at the firewall.
A Dakota frame has straight boxed frame rails from the kick out behind the front suspension until it kicks up for the rear axle (in the 5' long straight stretch range). They came with rack & pinion steering, independent, modern suspension (all new design in 87), disc brakes, have a lowering kit available, and support a 4 cylinder to a V8 with simple coil spring change. The track width of a 1st gen Dakota is about 60", about the same as many older Mopar cars & trucks. The 87-90 had 5 bolt 4 1/2" bolt pattern, the 91-96 have a 6 bolt wheel but can be converted to 5 bolt by bolting on the older rotors and changing rear axle shafts from the same size rear axle. The 97 & newer would be better to keep the 6 bolt wheels. You will want to look over the early Dakota frames for rust about the center of the truck about the point of the factory splice between the boxed frame and the channel back portion, especially rust belt trucks. Its not a difficult fix, and its usually the bottom 2", but its something to consider if you have a choice of more then 1 frame.
If I was going to clip one, the Dakota would be my 1st choice. Gene
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