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Why not such a big motor no replacement for displacement.

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Why not such a big motor no replacement for displacement.

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The blower IS displacement, which is why you don't need to run as many inches to make power with manifold pressure.

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500": is a good foundation, less piston speed and stress.. You going with a traditional Hemi, or a BAE which would be better and cheaper?

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Why not such a big motor no replacement for displacement.

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The blower IS displacement, which is why you don't need to run as many inches to make power with manifold pressure.

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500": is a good foundation, less piston speed and stress.. You going with a traditional Hemi, or a BAE which would be better and cheaper?

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I guess if you got the go ahead from mamma then GO BIG OR GO HOME!!! Whats it gonna hurt? Its going to be awsome!



We need an "im jealous" smiley

Kasey

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its going to hurt driveline parts

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Why not such a big motor no replacement for displacement.

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The blower IS displacement, which is why you don't need to run as many inches to make power with manifold pressure.

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500": is a good foundation, less piston speed and stress.. You going with a traditional Hemi, or a BAE which would be better and cheaper?

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For sure 588 is just plain dumb for a blown motor, you will have big time oil control issues and will make a lot less boost with 588 inches verses 488 or something like that.

My motors are 451" and make close to 3000HP.

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Well for starters, to the nay sayers you can call Tim Banning and tell him that the choice of a 588" is just plain dumb.

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Well for starters, to the nay sayers you can call Tim Banning and tell him that the choice of a 588" is just plain dumb.

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Sorry but it is, for reasons I mentioned. You don't need to have a big ole stroker crank in there with boost. It's not a good idea because boost keeps the oil from draining back fast enough. And we all know stroker cranks throw around more oil and why go to the expense of a stroker crank when it's not needed with a blower. It put's extra stress on everything and you don't need extra stress with boost, it already stresses the motor big time.

When someone mentions a large blown motor, I can tell this is there first blown motor, just trying to help.
A blown 588 hemi sounds just plain dumb to me, sorry.

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see 1 bad azz black 572 dart above seems to work well.

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Well for starters, to the nay sayers you can call Tim Banning and tell him that the choice of a 588" is just plain dumb.

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Sorry but it is, for reasons I mentioned. You don't need to have a big ole stroker crank in there with boost. It's not a good idea because boost keeps the oil from draining back fast enough. And we all know stroker cranks throw around more oil and why go to the expense of a stroker crank when it's not needed with a blower. It put's extra stress on everything and you don't need extra stress with boost, it already stresses the motor big time.

When someone mentions a large blown motor, I can tell this is there first blown motor, just trying to help.
A blown 588 hemi sounds just plain dumb to me, sorry.

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see 1 bad azz black 572 dart above seems to work well.

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except for the fact that it's not a 572" blown engine in it.

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what did they change it to

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Not to hi-jack the thread but what would be the best bore to stroke combo. If a person were to use the 4.5 bore hemi block in a supercharged application what stroke would you run between say a 3.750 or 4.125?

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Well for starters, to the nay sayers you can call Tim Banning and tell him that the choice of a 588" is just plain dumb.

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Sorry but it is, for reasons I mentioned. You don't need to have a big ole stroker crank in there with boost. It's not a good idea because boost keeps the oil from draining back fast enough. And we all know stroker cranks throw around more oil and why go to the expense of a stroker crank when it's not needed with a blower. It put's extra stress on everything and you don't need extra stress with boost, it already stresses the motor big time.

When someone mentions a large blown motor, I can tell this is there first blown motor, just trying to help.
A blown 588 hemi sounds just plain dumb to me, sorry.

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see 1 bad azz black 572 dart above seems to work well.

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Well for starters, to the nay sayers you can call Tim Banning and tell him that the choice of a 588" is just plain dumb.

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Sorry but it is, for reasons I mentioned. You don't need to have a big ole stroker crank in there with boost. It's not a good idea because boost keeps the oil from draining back fast enough. And we all know stroker cranks throw around more oil and why go to the expense of a stroker crank when it's not needed with a blower. It put's extra stress on everything and you don't need extra stress with boost, it already stresses the motor big time.

When someone mentions a large blown motor, I can tell this is there first blown motor, just trying to help.
A blown 588 hemi sounds just plain dumb to me, sorry.

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see 1 bad azz black 572 dart above seems to work well.

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If you consider being on fire to "work well"...

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If you consider being on fire to "work well"...

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One has nothing to do with the other.

But we do not run a 572 it is a 526. The car was running well till it kicked the rods and pushed a head gasket. Which was the the cause of the fire.

We are making some major changes which I will get into further on it's own thread. One thing we are no longer going to do is run a 4.5 stroke @ 10k rpm. It will be much smaller.

The OP is not looking to put something on kill. Tim has been around for a long time and I don't think he would take someone down the wrong path.

AS for a full on race Blown deal it is my understanding that the big stroke is not the way to go.

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So Challenger, what you're saying is the man needs a hi-boost small cube combo to run a conservative 1200-1400 in a street-strip car, more than likely on pump gas/race gas. Does the term detonation mean anything to you? The combo he's talking about putting together will have less stress than your 451 at the rpm's you run (or should be running) and actually be quite streetable at a low to medium overdrive/boost. You guys have to look at the overall picture of what the mans objectives are. Sure you want short stroke for an all-out TAD-Comp-class motor, but thats not what it sounds like he is doing. I could have built a stock stroke Hemi to run the 7.00 class, but I'd be pulling the pan off every couple of laps to check bearings. That was fun in my 30's but I've got a one, sometimes two man crew now and I chose to build a bigger (557") low boost combo that is just about maintenance free. I pulled the pan once this season, have two seasons on main and rod bearings, and may get a third. My point in all of this is there is no "one size fits all" in this hobby/sport, so for any of you to say this is a dumb combo may want to stick to something you can do better.....

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One thing to think about is cylinder wall thickness. I was told by a veterean funny car racer that when he switched from 4.375 bore to 4.467 it did increase hp but he was haveing alot more trouble with rings staying sealed. The best he could find is that the wall thickness of the sleave was thinner and it was loosing it shape under load. Granted this was different aplication but the princial is still the same.

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One thing to think about is cylinder wall thickness. I was told by a veterean funny car racer that when he switched from 4.375 bore to 4.467 it did increase hp but he was haveing alot more trouble with rings staying sealed. The best he could find is that the wall thickness of the sleave was thinner and it was loosing it shape under load. Granted this was different aplication but the princial is still the same.

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This is a new mega block.

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One thing to think about is cylinder wall thickness. I was told by a veterean funny car racer that when he switched from 4.375 bore to 4.467 it did increase hp but he was haveing alot more trouble with rings staying sealed. The best he could find is that the wall thickness of the sleave was thinner and it was loosing it shape under load. Granted this was different aplication but the princial is still the same.

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This is a new mega block.

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I don't know what the average cylinder thickness is on a mega, but the above bores on a KB block are pushing the limit on a standard KB sleeve, even with a solid block behind them. KB does make an oversize sleeve which, I think is 4.700" outside diameter which will still give .100" thickness at 4.50" bore, adequate for a N/A combo but marginal on anything stronger. More than likely the funny car guy had the std. OD sleeves which is I think 4.610" or 4.625", leaving him only about .070-.085" sleeve thickness, which is probably why he was losing ring seal.

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This actually a siamese mega block.

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The guys that do this at truely competitive level like the smaller CI for the best reliable horsepower, like 500 CI. I never built one, but have worked on a few friends blown cars, and that's how they did it. I know first hand that big CI and blow by don't mix, and that's N/A.

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This is not being built for competition racing, points chasing or ET chasing. Other than doing a pully change there will be no continuous mods and bla bla bla, when this motor is done that's it. I will be just going out and having a gay old time while I am still on this planet and after that I'll go fishing with the wife. You guys all need to take the competitive pro racing scenario out of the equation and not get your panties in a knot.

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The guys that do this at truely competitive level like the smaller CI for the best reliable horsepower, like 500 CI. I never built one, but have worked on a few friends blown cars, and that's how they did it. I know first hand that big CI and blow by don't mix, and that's N/A.

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This is not being built for competition racing, points chasing or ET chasing. Other than doing a pully change there will be no continuous mods and bla bla bla, when this motor is done that's it. I will be just going out and having a gay old time while I am still on this planet and after that I'll go fishing with the wife. You guys all need to take the competitive pro racing scenario out of the equation and not get your panties in a knot.

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So Challenger, what you're saying is the man needs a hi-boost small cube combo to run a conservative 1200-1400 in a street-strip car, more than likely on pump gas/race gas. Does the term detonation mean anything to you? The combo he's talking about putting together will have less stress than your 451 at the rpm's you run (or should be running) and actually be quite streetable at a low to medium overdrive/boost. You guys have to look at the overall picture of what the mans objectives are. Sure you want short stroke for an all-out TAD-Comp-class motor, but thats not what it sounds like he is doing. I could have built a stock stroke Hemi to run the 7.00 class, but I'd be pulling the pan off every couple of laps to check bearings. That was fun in my 30's but I've got a one, sometimes two man crew now and I chose to build a bigger (557") low boost combo that is just about maintenance free. I pulled the pan once this season, have two seasons on main and rod bearings, and may get a third. My point in all of this is there is no "one size fits all" in this hobby/sport, so for any of you to say this is a dumb combo may want to stick to something you can do better.....

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Thaaaak youuuuu......... see now Jimmy and Ronny get the picture.

This motor will not see past 7500 and I want a reliable motor for my goal. No disrespect taken from anyone and I understand everyone chipping in there two cents and I do appreciate the input but not to worry I am in good hands with FHO. :thumb

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I will also add that my shiftpoint has dropped from 7/7200 to 6500 after seeing the dyno sheets.It felt like it was still pulling when it was in the car but the dyno don't lie.I'm very much looking foward to spring

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The guys that do this at truely competitive level like the smaller CI for the best reliable horsepower, like 500 CI. I never built one, but have worked on a few friends blown cars, and that's how they did it. I know first hand that big CI and blow by don't mix, and that's N/A.

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This is not being built for competition racing, points chasing or ET chasing. Other than doing a pully change there will be no continuous mods and bla bla bla, when this motor is done that's it. I will be just going out and having a gay old time while I am still on this planet and after that I'll go fishing with the wife. You guys all need to take the competitive pro racing scenario out of the equation and not get your panties in a knot.

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Well then......it sounds like you have it all figured out. You asked on the race only area, we gave opinions.....good luck.

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If you re-read my OP you will not see any question marks just sharing of a build.
Thanks for all the opinions though, it shows you all care.

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I have built and dyno tested two 426 blower motors, one all aluminum KB street Hemi block, 499 C.I., 10.71 BDS blower with EFI and a new Mopar iron block that ended up being around 484 C.I., 4.25 bore with a old top fuel crank that was fully counter balanced with stock Mopar rod sizes that was 4.375 stroke with a Littlefield 10:71 street blower and two Holley 1050 dominator blower carbs. The iron block made 927 HP at 7300 RPM on CA pump gas with 7 lbs of boost Go with what you want, diffentitly the bigger 14:71 blower, but not a BDS one PM if you want with any other questions

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So Cab, what you're saying is, you "really" like all of the BDS stuff......

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I have built and dyno tested two 426 blower motors, one all aluminum KB street Hemi block, 499 C.I., 10.71 BDS blower with EFI and a new Mopar iron block that ended up being around 484 C.I., 4.25 bore with a old top fuel crank that was fully counter balanced with stock Mopar rod sizes that was 4.375 stroke with a Littlefield 10:71 street blower and two Holley 1050 dominator blower carbs. The iron block made 927 HP at 7300 RPM on CA pump gas with 7 lbs of boost Go with what you want, diffentitly the bigger 14:71 blower, but not a BDS one PM if you want with any other questions

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So Cab, what you're saying is, you "really" like all of the BDS stuff......

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You know it is easier to make good decisions on parts when you know who the good and bad guys are I spent many days at the dyno with Craig Railbeck finding out that he was not one of the besst guys out there I'm sure his intentions where good but his results and parts where not Just another non enjoyable part of my life

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web page 572

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That looks like the BDS scoop I bought from Chris

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Well I locked in a set of stage v big valve heads from FHO today. Got a smoken deal on them that I just about missed out on. The heads were used for one dyno session to test new rockers Tim developed and have already been machined. They have titanium 2.4 intake valves and 1.90 titanium exhaust valves, light weight titanium retainers, a high dollar locking lash cap system, Nextec polished valve springs and the heads have been fully cnc'd and flow 500 plus. I will get the flow chart #s from Tim later. Right now the springs are good for 1" lift so those will get changed out for some that are good for .800" lift. Just as I'm writing this the door bell goes off and these just arrived.

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Only 2 of them???

your going to need 6 more!~!!!


Just funnin!!!

Remmember 588 inches is dumb