Quote:

---

what did they change it to

---

Quote:

---

Not to hi-jack the thread but what would be the best bore to stroke combo. If a person were to use the 4.5 bore hemi block in a supercharged application what stroke would you run between say a 3.750 or 4.125?

---

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

Well for starters, to the nay sayers you can call Tim Banning and tell him that the choice of a 588" is just plain dumb.

---

Sorry but it is, for reasons I mentioned. You don't need to have a big ole stroker crank in there with boost. It's not a good idea because boost keeps the oil from draining back fast enough. And we all know stroker cranks throw around more oil and why go to the expense of a stroker crank when it's not needed with a blower. It put's extra stress on everything and you don't need extra stress with boost, it already stresses the motor big time.

When someone mentions a large blown motor, I can tell this is there first blown motor, just trying to help.
A blown 588 hemi sounds just plain dumb to me, sorry.

---

see 1 bad azz black 572 dart above seems to work well.

---

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

Well for starters, to the nay sayers you can call Tim Banning and tell him that the choice of a 588" is just plain dumb.

---

Sorry but it is, for reasons I mentioned. You don't need to have a big ole stroker crank in there with boost. It's not a good idea because boost keeps the oil from draining back fast enough. And we all know stroker cranks throw around more oil and why go to the expense of a stroker crank when it's not needed with a blower. It put's extra stress on everything and you don't need extra stress with boost, it already stresses the motor big time.

When someone mentions a large blown motor, I can tell this is there first blown motor, just trying to help.
A blown 588 hemi sounds just plain dumb to me, sorry.

---

see 1 bad azz black 572 dart above seems to work well.

---

If you consider being on fire to "work well"...

---

Quote:

---

If you consider being on fire to "work well"...

---

One has nothing to do with the other.

But we do not run a 572 it is a 526. The car was running well till it kicked the rods and pushed a head gasket. Which was the the cause of the fire.

We are making some major changes which I will get into further on it's own thread. One thing we are no longer going to do is run a 4.5 stroke @ 10k rpm. It will be much smaller.

The OP is not looking to put something on kill. Tim has been around for a long time and I don't think he would take someone down the wrong path.

AS for a full on race Blown deal it is my understanding that the big stroke is not the way to go.

Quote:

---

So Challenger, what you're saying is the man needs a hi-boost small cube combo to run a conservative 1200-1400 in a street-strip car, more than likely on pump gas/race gas. Does the term detonation mean anything to you? The combo he's talking about putting together will have less stress than your 451 at the rpm's you run (or should be running) and actually be quite streetable at a low to medium overdrive/boost. You guys have to look at the overall picture of what the mans objectives are. Sure you want short stroke for an all-out TAD-Comp-class motor, but thats not what it sounds like he is doing. I could have built a stock stroke Hemi to run the 7.00 class, but I'd be pulling the pan off every couple of laps to check bearings. That was fun in my 30's but I've got a one, sometimes two man crew now and I chose to build a bigger (557") low boost combo that is just about maintenance free. I pulled the pan once this season, have two seasons on main and rod bearings, and may get a third. My point in all of this is there is no "one size fits all" in this hobby/sport, so for any of you to say this is a dumb combo may want to stick to something you can do better.....

---

Quote:

---

One thing to think about is cylinder wall thickness. I was told by a veterean funny car racer that when he switched from 4.375 bore to 4.467 it did increase hp but he was haveing alot more trouble with rings staying sealed. The best he could find is that the wall thickness of the sleave was thinner and it was loosing it shape under load. Granted this was different aplication but the princial is still the same.

---

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

One thing to think about is cylinder wall thickness. I was told by a veterean funny car racer that when he switched from 4.375 bore to 4.467 it did increase hp but he was haveing alot more trouble with rings staying sealed. The best he could find is that the wall thickness of the sleave was thinner and it was loosing it shape under load. Granted this was different aplication but the princial is still the same.

---

This is a new mega block.

---

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

One thing to think about is cylinder wall thickness. I was told by a veterean funny car racer that when he switched from 4.375 bore to 4.467 it did increase hp but he was haveing alot more trouble with rings staying sealed. The best he could find is that the wall thickness of the sleave was thinner and it was loosing it shape under load. Granted this was different aplication but the princial is still the same.

---

This is a new mega block.

---

I don't know what the average cylinder thickness is on a mega, but the above bores on a KB block are pushing the limit on a standard KB sleeve, even with a solid block behind them. KB does make an oversize sleeve which, I think is 4.700" outside diameter which will still give .100" thickness at 4.50" bore, adequate for a N/A combo but marginal on anything stronger. More than likely the funny car guy had the std. OD sleeves which is I think 4.610" or 4.625", leaving him only about .070-.085" sleeve thickness, which is probably why he was losing ring seal.

---

This actually a siamese mega block.

Quote:

---

The guys that do this at truely competitive level like the smaller CI for the best reliable horsepower, like 500 CI. I never built one, but have worked on a few friends blown cars, and that's how they did it. I know first hand that big CI and blow by don't mix, and that's N/A.

---

This is not being built for competition racing, points chasing or ET chasing. Other than doing a pully change there will be no continuous mods and bla bla bla, when this motor is done that's it. I will be just going out and having a gay old time while I am still on this planet and after that I'll go fishing with the wife. You guys all need to take the competitive pro racing scenario out of the equation and not get your panties in a knot.

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

The guys that do this at truely competitive level like the smaller CI for the best reliable horsepower, like 500 CI. I never built one, but have worked on a few friends blown cars, and that's how they did it. I know first hand that big CI and blow by don't mix, and that's N/A.

---

This is not being built for competition racing, points chasing or ET chasing. Other than doing a pully change there will be no continuous mods and bla bla bla, when this motor is done that's it. I will be just going out and having a gay old time while I am still on this planet and after that I'll go fishing with the wife. You guys all need to take the competitive pro racing scenario out of the equation and not get your panties in a knot.

---

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

So Challenger, what you're saying is the man needs a hi-boost small cube combo to run a conservative 1200-1400 in a street-strip car, more than likely on pump gas/race gas. Does the term detonation mean anything to you? The combo he's talking about putting together will have less stress than your 451 at the rpm's you run (or should be running) and actually be quite streetable at a low to medium overdrive/boost. You guys have to look at the overall picture of what the mans objectives are. Sure you want short stroke for an all-out TAD-Comp-class motor, but thats not what it sounds like he is doing. I could have built a stock stroke Hemi to run the 7.00 class, but I'd be pulling the pan off every couple of laps to check bearings. That was fun in my 30's but I've got a one, sometimes two man crew now and I chose to build a bigger (557") low boost combo that is just about maintenance free. I pulled the pan once this season, have two seasons on main and rod bearings, and may get a third. My point in all of this is there is no "one size fits all" in this hobby/sport, so for any of you to say this is a dumb combo may want to stick to something you can do better.....

---

Thaaaak youuuuu......... see now Jimmy and Ronny get the picture.

This motor will not see past 7500 and I want a reliable motor for my goal. No disrespect taken from anyone and I understand everyone chipping in there two cents and I do appreciate the input but not to worry I am in good hands with FHO. :thumb

---

I will also add that my shiftpoint has dropped from 7/7200 to 6500 after seeing the dyno sheets.It felt like it was still pulling when it was in the car but the dyno don't lie.I'm very much looking foward to spring