Some quick questions:

While tuning my 1406 edelbrock on my 440, where do I draw a distinction between controlling idle with timing vs. the idle screw on the body of the carb?

Should there be ported vacuum to the distributor at idle? If I remove that line, I can feel some small amount of vacuum still, but replacing it on the distributor has no effect on timing. Not until I rev slightly.

If there is vacuum at the ported port on the carb, does that mean I am off the idle circuit?

I'm sure I've got a couple more questions that I'll come up with once I'm done posting this.

Thanks

use a vacuum gauge. advance the timing to increase vacuum. then back off the idle adjustment screw to set the idle speed, then tweak your idle bleeds.

then start over. advance timing to max vacuum, etc.

simply put, your idle speed screw should be backed off as much as you can, and timing advanced as much as you can at idle...and not have it kick back against the starter on hot starts.

find the ideal initial w the "vac gauge method" which includes reducing the idle sp (in drive/e brake on) back to "normal" which is where it'd b at a stoplight. Want 2 use front/pass port (ported) for vac adv. It may have a bit of vac at idle but not near enough to activate the can & that's correct but standard procedure you do cap it for the VG method. What is the lowest functioning idle speed you can achieve w your cam & that's the "normal" that you keep reducing it back to as you twist the dizzy w the above method

If you're comfortable w a 800 idle & starts (cranks) well & total is 36-38 & NO PING then you're very close 2 ideal if the spring tension is correct. How many turns is the idle speed screw in from just touching

Always adjust the carb last. Ron