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How much would you say a build like this one would cost?

Just a ballpark figure?

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You might be better off buying a built combo (like the one listed above). I have at least one customer selling his complete engine after the Gen III Hemi shootout in ATCO on 11/4. That combo is setup for E85 but I have tunes for pump gas that I could email you as well as walk you through the "load" process.

PM me if you want me to get a price if you're interested. Otherwise, if you're a "do it yourself" guy, locate a 5.7 core, I have a bunch of 6.1 cranks ($150 each), you can usually find a 6.1 intake for $4-500, and the rest of the parts can easily be priced used or new.

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i am building a similar engine. i have the 5.7 and the 6.1 crank.

what rods are you using, the 2.100 drag pack rods, or another part number?

and what about a piston part number?

thanks in advance... and i maybe interested in another 6.1 crank. will you ship?

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The cheapest route would to buy a used 6.1 crank, offset grind it for Honda rod journals with a .927" pin and 6.200" center to center which is an Eagle shelf rod. With a 6.125" rod you'll need to clearance the crank throw's. Don't forget to reharden the crank after the crank was reground. We do one step further and cryo treat our offset cranks.

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offset grind it for Honda rod journals with a .927" pin and 6.200" center to center which is an Eagle shelf rod. We do one step further and cryo treat our offset cranks.

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Now you're talking!

If anyone cares here's a pic of one of these 2 ton monsters launching.... http://www.lxforums.com/board/f388/one-nasty-5-7-charger-271255/

Here's another one of my customers running a stroker in a 4000# car he drove 6 hours to race and thne home (this video was before I tuned the car ): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d5RBrQm5GAI&feature=player_embedded

The point here is that these new Hemi's can make power and have plenty of potential.

With folks like Hemidup and other building killer engines I expect to see alot of these "budget" builds showing up at the track. In a light car with a torqueflite, glide or th400, a good brake, dana 60 or ford 9" and good rear suspension they should fly!

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The cheapest route would to buy a used 6.1 crank, offset grind it for Honda rod journals with a .927" pin and 6.200" center to center which is an Eagle shelf rod. With a 6.125" rod you'll need to clearance the crank throw's. Don't forget to reharden the crank after the crank was reground. We do one step further and cryo treat our offset cranks.

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How much would you say a build like this one would cost?

Just a ballpark figure?

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You might be better off buying a built combo (like the one listed above). I have at least one customer selling his complete engine after the Gen III Hemi shootout in ATCO on 11/4. That combo is setup for E85 but I have tunes for pump gas that I could email you as well as walk you through the "load" process.

PM me if you want me to get a price if you're interested. Otherwise, if you're a "do it yourself" guy, locate a 5.7 core, I have a bunch of 6.1 cranks ($150 each), you can usually find a 6.1 intake for $4-500, and the rest of the parts can easily be priced used or new.

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i am building a similar engine. i have the 5.7 and the 6.1 crank.

what rods are you using, the 2.100 drag pack rods, or another part number?

and what about a piston part number?

thanks in advance... and i maybe interested in another 6.1 crank. will you ship?

---

The cheapest route would to buy a used 6.1 crank, offset grind it for Honda rod journals with a .927" pin and 6.200" center to center which is an Eagle shelf rod. With a 6.125" rod you'll need to clearance the crank throw's. Don't forget to reharden the crank after the crank was reground. We do one step further and cryo treat our offset cranks.

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I know you have had good luck with them in your engine, but the eagle rods scare me a little bit. I would be all for the small journal honda rods, but would rather find a set of new k1, manleys, or carillo take outs. Whats the big end width on those eagles???

thanks for your help.

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The cheapest route would to buy a used 6.1 crank, offset grind it for Honda rod journals with a .927" pin and 6.200" center to center which is an Eagle shelf rod. With a 6.125" rod you'll need to clearance the crank throw's. Don't forget to reharden the crank after the crank was reground. We do one step further and cryo treat our offset cranks.

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What the cost to do the crank as you described? My 6.1 crank needs to be cut anyway.

Also, anyone know what material the 6.1 crank is made of?

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$400 retail without the cryo treatment.

Can't remember the correct material number of the factory 6.1 crank, but its like 1 step softer than 4130.

BTW...Never seen a 5.7 cast iron crankshaft fail yet, even when we offset ground a couple to make a 5.7 stroked to a 6.1. and that was like 5 years ago and they're still running strong.

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All new hemis that have the 5 speed trans( car motors) behind them had the spacer. I use a carbid bit and grind a relief in the side of the spacer and then pop it out.

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that is what i was going to do. i really thought it had a auto trans in front of it though. maybe the new converters dont fit into the crank on the new stuff

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The snout of the converter hub on a 722.6 (NAG1) is smaller than the trucks 545RFE converter so a bushing is used in the back of the cranks used on cars. Yes that bushing can be a pain, but cutting it out is the best way. One time I did pack some grease in the bushing and with the proper size dowel and dead blow, gave it a smack. Spit grease for a week lol.

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damn thing was brutal. thats funny, you tried to hydrolic it out

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All new hemis that have the 5 speed trans( car motors) behind them had the spacer. I use a carbid bit and grind a relief in the side of the spacer and then pop it out.

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that is what i was going to do. i really thought it had a auto trans in front of it though. maybe the new converters dont fit into the crank on the new stuff

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The snout of the converter hub on a 722.6 (NAG1) is smaller than the trucks 545RFE converter so a bushing is used in the back of the cranks used on cars. Yes that bushing can be a pain, but cutting it out is the best way. One time I did pack some grease in the bushing and with the proper size dowel and dead blow, gave it a smack. Spit grease for a week lol.

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damn thing was brutal. thats funny, you tried to hydrolic it out

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sixpackgut,,,,,saw some pics on your post 'my hemi'...saw the engine with the stock crank pulley on it,,,I was wondering about that setup myself but hadn't got around to asking any questions yet..What are other people's ideas as to using the stock pulley or some type of dampner. I realize there is no keyway in the crank, and I am not even sure anybody makes a damper or if it is needed??? I have wondered about this from teardown, but hadn't asked anyone...opinions anybody..??.. or preferably, actual experiences/results. I realize also, that the crank would need to be keyed for a damper to work, and there would be no need to have timing marks and such,,,,just thinking and wondering.. Thanks

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