OK ... so what constitutes a TALL FILL and should I re-hone after the fill? Is that to the Water Pump Holes in an RB?

What's the advantage of the Steel Caps over Aluminum in a relatively low RPM engine combo like mine?

Where's the best place for Steel Caps?

Harpo, Honing after filling the block is a must, and I personally prefer Pro Gram Steel caps if I had to buy them.
AL...

looks like some very expensive major machining..I picked up a set of cross bolt caps..I brought them to my machinest and he told me to forget it..although check out http://gearsandrears.com/girdle.html

they have a very unique piece

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I don't know what what your chassis consists of now, but that kind of power (875-1050) may cause plenty of grieve with out also bringing the chassis and drivetrain up to snuff.

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'66 Coronet
8 PT Chromoly Roll Bar tied to Frame Connectors
2x3 MS SubFrame Connector cut/Mig Welded into floor
STRANGE DANA 60 w/ 4.10 ProGear
STRANGE Race Axles
CalTracs/Monoleafs
727 w/ best of everything except Aluminum Drum and Rollerizing
HP GRINER LBARMVB
ATI 8" Converter built for some smack
MMC 3.5" Driveshaft (Similar units sprayed up to 1200HP)
CDIgnition Front Engine Plate
Homemade Fore/Aft Limiters
WilWoods all four corners to stop her

Ready for 12 pt when ET dictates. When/If I see some 9.5 numbers, I'll probably get "well done, stock looking" backhalf 4Link from Dan Neumann Race Cars in Ocala to include enough room for 10.5W. She'll still stay stock w/ Full Interior inside.

I'll skinny up my slow motion video and re-post it so everyone can see how the car leaves now. It's like driving away from a stop light ... albeit a bit faster. Add some more power, adjustable front end limiters ... a shade of the juice outta the hole w/ more down track and it should get to the other light before it changes.

The bottom of the waterpump holes make a nice "sightline" when filling the block, you could easily stop at an inch or so short of that if you prefered.
As far as honing afterwards being a "must", If your machine work is all done and at the last minute you decide to fill the block, I wouldn't let that dissuade you, but it would certainly be the prefered method. I ran my best MPH ever 2 weeks ago, and that was pass 299, so I don't think my ring seal has suffered.
I think the two-bolt steel caps would work, I think the aluminum caps would work..either will just require a line bore job...the thing that pisses me off is that both sets come in 400 size so it requires quite a bit of work, if they came in 440 size, you could just bolt them on, quick align-hone and go.
The nice thing about N20 power is you can apply it when you want..I have a glide, and an 8 3/4, so I like to apply it about 20ft out, after the intial launch, and so far, no broken parts!!

Harpo, it sounds like you have more there than I envisioned.

I can't wait to see it...My engine is being built by Midwest Engine Tech, here in Mokena, Illinois..they do some good work....I'm trying to stay within a budget although I have a mega block for a 572 waiting to be machined in the near future..those cam bearings sound very good not to mention the rest of your services....