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I just finished installing the TVS kit on my Challenger. Still in the process of aligning the front end so I have not driven it yet. Install was pretty easy just ran into a couple issues. Drivers side inner tie rod hit the torsion bar since the Hotchkis rod ends are a little taller.
Alignment can be a pain if you have to re-adjust the rod ends on the UCAs.
Since the front end was apart I also replaced the LCA bushings with poly and welded AndyF's LCA plates.

I actually wish the car sat lower than it does but no biggie. It is a nice kit...fit and finish is really high quality. Hopefully it will handle like everyone says.

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Hey gang..
Anyone done one of these conversions? (Hotchkis Dodge Challenger Suspension)?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8fHj0b-ey5Y&feature=youtube_gdata_player

I have a friend who just got the complete kit. Looks like it's pretty straight forward. She mentioned I would have to weld something, but I think that's the front sway bar bracket on the lower control arm if the car's not equipped with it. But, her car is a '71 Challenger R/T, so it should have the front sway bar. Other than that, looks to be all bolt-on stuff I could do in my garage. I'm pretty good with front suspension, so that doesn't bother me.....

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Thanks everyone for the nice comments about our TVS kit. We look forward to getting your opinions after some more seat time with our system installed.

Hemi68Charger – We made the kit to be as straightforward as possible with as little necessary modification to the original car as possible. As you mentioned, if your car didn’t have a front sway bar, you’ll have to weld on the included sway bar mount tabs. You have to relieve a little bit of the upper mounts to clear the upper control arms and you’ll have to weld in the front of the subframe connectors.



Here’s a link to the downloadable PDF instructions:

http://www.hotchkis.net/_uploaded_files/80110.pdf

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The kit looks real nice. I especially like the uppper control arms, stuts rods and anti-sway bas. But the subframe connectors.....I'm not liking the actual design of these.

Has anyone installed/seen the contoured subframe connecors that actually look like frame rails. I have seen these and think they would be a more stock look...maybe even more effective too...

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71STROKERFISH – Thanks for the kind words about our TVS kit. We decided to make the kit as easy to install as possible while not being too invasive. Our subframe connectors work great and are extremely effective. Here’s a photo of one of our H-Team Challengers with our TVS (with our subframe connectors) installed with a single floor jack. Try doing this without connectors and still have the doors open and close perfectly.



Our connectors work great and they are easy and fairly quick to install.

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The kit looks real nice. I especially like the uppper control arms, stuts rods and anti-sway bas. But the subframe connectors.....I'm not liking the actual design of these.

Has anyone installed/seen the contoured subframe connecors that actually look like frame rails. I have seen these and think they would be a more stock look...maybe even more effective too...

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71STROKERFISH – Thanks for the kind words about our TVS kit. We decided to make the kit as easy to install as possible while not being too invasive. Our subframe connectors work great and are extremely effective. Here’s a photo of one of our H-Team Challengers with our TVS (with our subframe connectors) installed with a single floor jack. Try doing this without connectors and still have the doors open and close perfectly.


Our connectors work great and they are easy and fairly quick to install.

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What kind of money are we talking for one of these kits?

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MoparMojo - It depends on which kit and application you're referring to. We have Sway Bar kits and we also have complete TVS kits. If you're asking about our maximum driving performance TVS kits, we have them for most Mopars and range from about $2500 to $3300 suggested retail price. Many of our Dealers have periodic specials and competitive pricing on our products. Check the sponsors of this forum and also check the Dealer search on Hotchkis.net.

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... You also might not like the lowered front spring hangers. If so, just put you old ones back on. Your choice. Sort of depends on rear tire size....

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The only thing that changed was initial ride height. If she bottomed out the car with the old leaf springs and shackle she should have rubbed too. Are there marks on the tires that show previous rubbing?

If you put the old front hangers on it will gain you 1" or so upward rear ride height.

You should have no less than 4.5 backspacing with a 15x8 rim. The blue Challenger above is 245/60/15 rear tires and IIRC, 15x8 with 4.5 backspacing. I forget if you need offset shackles to run 5.0" backspacing?

What are the specs of the rear rims she has on there now?

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Hotchkis
Maybe you can help me out here. I just got a call from my friend who's putting the E-body complete kit in her '71 Challenger R/T. She has a problem. Apparently the body, in space, is lowered a few inches. Now she's having issues with the 275/60R/15's she has in the rear, they are now rubbing against the outer wheel well/opening. I don't know what the rim with is (I'm assuming 8") nor do I know the negative offset. With your experience, what sort of +/- offset should be be focusing in on? She's apparently going to have to get a new set of rear wheels and tires now. The two areas I told her she needs to worry about now are the outer/inner wheel wells towards the top and the distance in the negative offset direction from the leaf springs.

Thanks..
Troy

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