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'69 b body, 440 w/MP elec ign conversion.


This is my 2nd Blaster and I will not buy another one. Today, while doing some routine checking under the hood I noticed the top of my coil (which IS mounted vertically) had some oil film on it. I took a rag to wipe it off and unplugged the coil wire and the socket is filled with oil.

I do have the MSD ballast installed that folks here reccommended when I asked about using the blaster with the MP electronic conversion. The car is actually running really good, but I know that coil will leave me needing a tow.

I need to replace this coil and I do not want another oil filled blaster. What coil (make, part #, ebay, summit, whatever)would drop in its place for me?

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If running the Mopar electronic distributor, box (chrome or orange) and Blaster II coil the proper ballast resistor is 0.25 Ohms (#Mopar Performance 2444641).

Just my $0.02..

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'69 b body, 440 w/MP elec ign conversion.


This is my 2nd Blaster and I will not buy another one. Today, while doing some routine checking under the hood I noticed the top of my coil (which IS mounted vertically) had some oil film on it. I took a rag to wipe it off and unplugged the coil wire and the socket is filled with oil.

I do have the MSD ballast installed that folks here reccommended when I asked about using the blaster with the MP electronic conversion. The car is actually running really good, but I know that coil will leave me needing a tow.

I need to replace this coil and I do not want another oil filled blaster. What coil (make, part #, ebay, summit, whatever)would drop in its place for me?

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If running the Mopar electronic distributor, box (chrome or orange) and Blaster II coil the proper ballast resistor is 0.25 Ohms (#Mopar Performance 2444641).

Just my $0.02..

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well, that explains the problem!

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'69 b body, 440 w/MP elec ign conversion.


This is my 2nd Blaster and I will not buy another one. Today, while doing some routine checking under the hood I noticed the top of my coil (which IS mounted vertically) had some oil film on it. I took a rag to wipe it off and unplugged the coil wire and the socket is filled with oil.

I do have the MSD ballast installed that folks here reccommended when I asked about using the blaster with the MP electronic conversion. The car is actually running really good, but I know that coil will leave me needing a tow.

I need to replace this coil and I do not want another oil filled blaster. What coil (make, part #, ebay, summit, whatever)would drop in its place for me?

---

If running the Mopar electronic distributor, box (chrome or orange) and Blaster II coil the proper ballast resistor is 0.25 Ohms (#Mopar Performance 2444641).

Just my $0.02..

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well, that explains the problem!

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So you're telling me that the MSD supplied .8v ballast with the Blaster II coil isnt correct/wont work for a MP Chrome box? (came in kit form from MSD)
Please dont tell me that!

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Direct quote from 2009 Mopar Performance Catalog..
Page 118

"Blaster Coils
These high performance Blaster coils are oil-filled.
They feature 100:1 turns ratio, threaded primary stud connection and "socket-style" tower. Designed for high performance street and race applications. Use 1/4 ohm ballast resistor #P2444641 when used with ignition kits P3690426, P3690427, P3690428."

Just my $0.02...

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I second the FBO unit. Top shelf for the Mopar Electronic. Sorry, just saw the thread. Call Don..

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I have heard good things about Don & FBO but never used their stuff..
We have installed a lot of Mopar & MSD ignition systems, the Mopar system is by far the best value once you curve the distributor and upgrade the box to chrome. In fact we just pulled an MSD system out of a customer's RoadRunner and installed the Mopar..

One thing for sure..
STAY AWAY from the ProComp stuff distributor & box, can be bought for $100 but it is total junk..

Just my $0.02...

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I was also running Don's A688 ign kit till the module itself crapped out on the road after 5 years of service. Changed out the coil as well because it was suspect at the time of my module failing.

Now I just have my original chrome box back in there with a blaster II coil & the supplied .8v ballast I would think that the .8 would be OK for the coil & not do any damage....correct??

Ill see if I can pick up a MP .25v unit at Carlisle.

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Should run OK...
The higher resistance (Ohms) ballast resistor simply drops the coil voltage slightly more, but 0.25 Ohms is what the speced by Mopar to use. As the Blaster coil can take a higher input voltage then an OE coil.

Just my $0.02...

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eventually it will overheat or flat out burn out

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If the higher resistance ballast (.8v) drops the voltage to the coil, how would using that one cause the coil to burn out?

I would think using a lower resistance ballast (.25v) would let more voltage to the coil as well as generate more heat??


PS---sorry to the OP for the thread hijack!!

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you're right, i read it wrong! the .8 would fry the coil although i still don't understand why the ECU makes a difference

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Increased voltage=increased current flow through the coil primary windings. Those windings are controlled(on and off) by a transistor in the ECU. When coil primary is turned on(by the transistor) the current flows through the coil primary AND the ECU transistor.

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sorry - the .8 with MP ECU i'd have to say yes. Mother Mopar says to use a .25 with her box. i use a MSD box with a MSD blaster2 coil and use a .8v. what i don't understand is why the voltage to the coil has anything to do with the ECU.

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We better clear the air here..
A lower resistance (Ohms) ballast resistor means less voltage drop to the input of the coil which means higher output voltage of the coil..
Since the coil is basically a step-up voltage transformer.

The next major component is the ignition box be it a Mopar box (orange or chrome) or an MSD or a Crane or Mallory.
The pickup within the distributor fires the box which in turn triggers the coil to output its high voltage. An MSD box is designed to trigger 10 degrees before and 10 degrees making a 20 degree window for firing the coil output to the distributor, sending the proper distribution to the designated cylinder.

Another point of the ballast resistor is that under continuous operation it will heat up, its resistance increases which in turn decreases its voltage/current output to the coil slightly. Since the Mopar electronic ignition system were released in 1972 there have been multiple technical advancements of coils with higher output & input voltage capability, ignition boxes and spark plugs.

Even though I am an electronic engineer and hold severaI patents in the electronics category..
For my Mopars I tend to be of the old school, and have had great sucess with the Mopar ignition systems in our street and competition machines. The Mopar system is simple and affordable, making it a good value/performance buy.

If it ain't broke, leave it alone..

Just my $0.02..

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let me see if i'm following -
a .2v allows more voltage/current to flow to the coil thus allowing the coil to operate at a higher current level. but what does that have to do with the ECU? the ECU is nothing but a fancy set of points. does the resistor only become a factor to the ECU when starting the car when current/voltage draw is higher? the box operates at 12 volts and i thought the voltage regulator kept that level steady? MY HEAD HURTS!

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The box (ECU) is simply a more advanced "switch" to fire the coil..
The ballast resistor is not a factor in starting it is bypassed..
So the resistor & coil get a full 12V...

In the earlier days there was a 2-part ballast resistor that dropped the voltage to the box but later it was not needed..

Just my $0.02..