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6 bbl Help #1019113
06/23/11 01:57 PM
06/23/11 01:57 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,137
East Aurora (Buffalo) NY
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Quite a few years ago, there was an posting that followed on how ot set up a 6bbl intake carb system. I had copied it to a word file a few years ago but misplaced it. I tried searching a couple of times here, but the search function keeps saying try back later. I'll try a page by page search in the archive again. But if anyone has a link, it would be appreciated.


68 Road Runner (383/4speed, post car w/decor pkg) - Major Project
69 Road Runner w/472 Hemi & 4 speed.
70 Challenger R/T SE EF8 w/ V9J, U - A32 - Major Project
2023 Ford Mach 1
Re: 6 bbl Help [Re: RoadRunner] #1019114
06/23/11 02:12 PM
06/23/11 02:12 PM
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 18,153
Mass
DAYCLONA Offline
I Live Here
DAYCLONA  Offline
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Posts: 18,153
Mass
Just use the google search at the top of the MOPARTS page,....type in SIXPACK SET UP it'll take you to the pages your probally looking for

Re: 6 bbl Help [Re: DAYCLONA] #1019115
06/23/11 02:16 PM
06/23/11 02:16 PM
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 27,347
Today? Who Knows?
1_WILD_RT Offline
Management Trainee
1_WILD_RT  Offline
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Posts: 27,347
Today? Who Knows?
Quote:

Just use the google search at the top of the MOPARTS page,....type in SIXPACK SET UP it'll take you to the pages your probally looking for




Gee Mike, why don't ya just type it all out again?

Thanks to Mike for his previous typing.. I saved it.. Hope this is what your looking for....


I have to agree strongly with Mike(HPMike) I've been running six pack inductions for about 30 years now, sm blk, big blk, and even the custom 6 pak cast HEMI intake manifolds that I made for the 71 wingcars,.....I don't have anything but, sixpack cars,,,,,,,,I've rebuilt countless numbers of carbs, along with countless installations and tunings,....when there are troubles, it usally due to someone unfamilar with there tuning or functions, or attempts at trying to improve them,......which usally results in "problem" carbs, starting, stalling, flooding issuse!.....seeing your have "new" carbs/ set-uo,....I'd recommend you use a Carter street pump, don't use rubber hose, it's problems down the road!, use a factory style/ repro steel, or stainless steel fuel line kit,a good quality hi flow fuel filter, AFTER the pump!, not before!, you'll restrict the fuel flow, Factory style linkage, no junk progrssive/ mech linkage!, change out the brass side float screw on the fuel bowls (all 3 bowls) with Holleys clear sight plugs, this way you can see your float level, and no gas spills trying to adjust, their like $4 each,.....when setting the fuel level, I've found that it's best to bring it up to half the height of the clear sight plug, (can't do this with the brass sight screw!, unless you have X-ray vision, hence the need to install the clear plastic sights).....plus "if" you ever have a starting problem, just shaking the car side to side will slosh the fuel in the clear site, and you'll know wether or not you have fuel in the bowl,....after you have basically installed the set-up, and started the car, and set an acceptable idle after warm up, with the engine running, set the floats, start with the center carb, the slotted screw on top of the float adjuster, is just a lock screw, you can remove it for now, the 5/8" nut is the adjuster/needle seat nut, rotating it counter clockwise will raise fuel level in the bowl, clockwise will lower it, make small 1/2 turns let the car run a bit, check the fuel in the clear site window, half the window is ideal height, esp. in the front and rear carbs, when they dump in, you don't wanna lean the engine, which on a sixpack car, might "melt" a piston or two!....really!, been, there, done that!....after you set the fuel level in all 3 carbs, reset the idle on the center carb, by disconnecting the linkage on the end carbs, if your using an idle solenoid, make sure it's energized in the up position contacting the center carbs solenoid idle arm screw, set the desired idle, that keeps your car running, factory specs are a guide line, your cam, vacumm, etc, will affect your desired RPM range, after you establish this idle, this is what your car will run with, now de-energize the solenoid, using the idle srew located on the ceter carbs main throttle shaft, set the idle to a bare minimum running idle, this is were your throttle shaft will close down too when you shut off the car, and the idle solenoid de-energizes, if later you have shut down problems of the car desieling, (sputtering run on after shut down) keep lowering the idle screw on the center carb main shaft, untill this is condition is eliminated, the idle solenoid was added to maintain an idle, and allow the throttle blade to choke off the engine on shutdown if needed, when it de-energized, after your center card idle is set, now comes the fun, start the car, in idle, the front and rear carbs are still disconnected at their main throttle linkage, (important note: make sure no vacumm source is hooked up to the front and rear carbs when main linkage is disconnected, cause any reving you may do, might tip in a end carb! with vacumm!, and if you can't shut it down in time, you might lose an engine!....seen it done!)to properly set the fuel/ air mixture idle screws, start with the center carb, hook up a tach.......warmed up, good idle (low)....turn the fuel/ air mixture screws (2) located on each side of the center carb metering block, do one at a time, run it in slowly, until the engine begins to stumble, slowy back it out watching the tach needle, stop when you've obtained the highest rpm reading,....you can also do this with a vacumm gauge attached to MANIFOLD vacumm, I like to use both at the same time, ...repeat the process for the other side, when done, now re-do-it, again, just to confirm settings, now some of the end carbs, have their fuel idle screws "plugged" with lead, they are located in the base, in the front of the carb base plate, under the bowl, if plugged, dig out lead plug, most people think ones for fuel, ones for air , their not!, you'll adjust these screws just like the center carb, except you can't just use a vacumm/ tach gauge,....look into the top of the front end carb, you see 2 small projections in each bore on each side, just below the neck, these are the air bleeds, block off the outer bleed using your finger over the small tiny hole, with the motor running at idle (low), it should stumble or pick up in idle, when you block off, either outboard bleed, set the front carb first, pick a bore, left or right, with it's coresponding baseplate idle screw, block the bleed off with your finger,(make sure the carbs throttle plate is fully closed) do one side at a time, when you block the bleed, if the idle increases, too much fuel, remove your finger, turn the base screw on the side your blocking the bleed on, in, one turn, block the bleed again, listen for the idle, (you could use a tach gauge at this point), if it stumbles/ decreases, no fuel, back the base screw off a half turn, block the air bleed again see where the "idle" is,......keep adjusting in this fashion until there's no change in idle, no increase/ decrease, you now have the ideal fuel/ air ratio for the vacummm requirement on your motor, complete this for both sides of the front carb, shut off the motor, disconnect this carb remove it, re-install it in the rear,....install the rear carb, now in the front, adjust this carb like you did to the last one, after you hook up everything, now here's when most guys will balk at this move,....they'll insist the air/fuel mixture won't be 100% by moving the tuned front carb to the rear, well if your truly familiar with the sixpack set-up, you know getting to the rear carbs base screws is fustrating to say the least, unless your squeezeing every ounze of effeciency out of the motor, this technique is far better than leaving the factory setting/ lead plugs in, with is usally a lean set-up,,,,,,, after setting this relocated carb up, if you wish you can "play" trying to "tweak" the rear carb, this may include a round of removal the "tweak" the screws to obtain that last ounze of "tuning", I've yet to see a "tool", truly capable of fitting into the installed rear carbs "idle screws"......anybody?,

Well, when your "done" setting the air/ fuel "idle" mixtures on the end carbs, connect the end linkages, to the end carbs, do it with the idle solenoid energized, the rods are threaded were they join together on the center carb, they install on the end carbs with rod clips, there is a F/R or left?right handed clip, energize solenoid, do the front carb first, make sure the linkage is pulled far forward on the center carb secondary rail, thread the rod, in or out, until it fits nicely in the hole, then proceed to the rear, repeat this proceedure, now check the linkage for any binding, you should be able to chrack open (engine off!) the center car, WOT, and manually open both carbs by rotating the front carb throttle arm, close the center carb, check all linkage for binding, readjust if needed, now de-energize the idle solenoid, see if any bind is preventing the center carb from closing on the main throttle shaft idle screw, you may have to comprimise on some idle/ and or end carb linkage adjustments to have an ideal, functioning set-up, but once you take the time to do this, you'll appreciate your efforts!,....as far as altering the end carb secondary springs in the vacumm pods,.....I like a sixpack to come in quick,....you'll have to buy 2 sping kits, replace with the "white" springs if you want a quick responding set-up,....if you what a mid range set-up use the "yellow" springs,.....any thing in the brown or black range is worthless.,,,,,Hell I could write a book here, I probally have, if you have any other questions, PM me.......I wrote this for others, to utilize as well,....... 

--------------------
"Still Winging it" at www.officialdayclona.com


"The Armies of our ancestors were lucky, in that they were not trailed by a second army of pencil pushers."
Re: 6 bbl Help [Re: 1_WILD_RT] #1019116
06/23/11 02:21 PM
06/23/11 02:21 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,137
East Aurora (Buffalo) NY
RoadRunner Offline OP
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Sweet. For the posting and the Google trick. Hopefully I can remember that trick. Thanks again guys.


68 Road Runner (383/4speed, post car w/decor pkg) - Major Project
69 Road Runner w/472 Hemi & 4 speed.
70 Challenger R/T SE EF8 w/ V9J, U - A32 - Major Project
2023 Ford Mach 1
Re: 6 bbl Help [Re: 1_WILD_RT] #1019117
06/23/11 02:34 PM
06/23/11 02:34 PM
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 18,153
Mass
DAYCLONA Offline
I Live Here
DAYCLONA  Offline
I Live Here

Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 18,153
Mass
Thanks Randy



I did make a fubar on one statement though in that print,....

When setting up the end carbs, I should have stated that when blocking the outer air bleeds on the end carbs; with your finger tip, IF the RPM picked up, the carb was running LEAN, and if the RPM's dropped off it was RICH,...I quoted the opposite,....wouldn't really matter much, as the goal is to balance off the air bleed signal




Mike



Re: 6 bbl Help [Re: RoadRunner] #1019118
06/24/11 07:46 AM
06/24/11 07:46 AM
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 2,463
Answering the call of the wild
T
ThermoQuad Offline
top fuel
ThermoQuad  Offline
top fuel
T

Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 2,463
Answering the call of the wild
I am not posting the tuning guide I compiled and edited again. It's here somewhere. No more hand holding.

Until the powers to be that run this site get their act together with the tech archives some else can hold up the world & post the diatribe.





Re: 6 bbl Help [Re: ThermoQuad] #1019119
06/24/11 10:26 AM
06/24/11 10:26 AM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,137
East Aurora (Buffalo) NY
RoadRunner Offline OP
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RoadRunner  Offline OP
master

Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,137
East Aurora (Buffalo) NY
Tom, thanks. I found your write up and saved it to a document file. At least next time someone asks, if its not in the archives and easy to find, there will be one more person who can post it.


68 Road Runner (383/4speed, post car w/decor pkg) - Major Project
69 Road Runner w/472 Hemi & 4 speed.
70 Challenger R/T SE EF8 w/ V9J, U - A32 - Major Project
2023 Ford Mach 1
Re: 6 bbl Help [Re: RoadRunner] #1019120
06/24/11 10:37 AM
06/24/11 10:37 AM
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 3,426
weymouth,mass.
M
meepmeep70 Offline
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weymouth,mass.
and another who can post it also.thank you!







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