Re: manual trans question
[Re: JohnRR]
#1009101
06/09/11 03:38 PM
06/09/11 03:38 PM
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Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 2,375 Wheatfield, NY
Cuda340
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 2,375
Wheatfield, NY
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Quote:
Quote:
If so, how would you get the cluster shaft in after the tailstock is in ?!?!?!
If it were the case you would do it the same way you have to do it assembling an overdrive 833
Exactly John...
For some reason I thought you couldn't remove the main shaft without dropping the cluster on an 18-spline. maybe I am getting confused with the OD.
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Re: manual trans question
[Re: JohnRR]
#1009105
06/10/11 10:36 AM
06/10/11 10:36 AM
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Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 9,037 Ontario, Canada
Stanton
Don't question me!
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Don't question me!
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 9,037
Ontario, Canada
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John-boy, do you actually read the posts before you reply or do you just have a hard time with the english language ?!?!? Quote:
you can't get the cluster pin out the front even after you pull the key off the back as you are suggesting.
I never suggested that at all
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First off you are correct
Thank you John-boy ... this is one of the most intelligent statements you've made.
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and one would definitely not do it with the trans bolted to the bellhousing engine as you are suggesting the OP do because there is no way to push the cluster pin to the rear.
Never suggested that. In fact I actually stated why it couldn't be done but of course you didn't read that post!!
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But as far as dropping the cluster gear on an OD the manual tells you how to do it ... Unbolt the tailhousing , rotate it till you have clear access to the rear of the cluster pin , pull the soft plug from the front of the trans and push the pin out the back , the cluster gear drops down and the mainshaft is now easily able to be removed , repeat in reverse to assemble.
This would be logical to me, I wouldn't need a manual for this.
And since its just eating away at you, I called you a smarta$$ and that's all they editted out.
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Re: manual trans question
[Re: Stanton]
#1009106
06/10/11 10:42 AM
06/10/11 10:42 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 75,280 A gulag near you.
JohnRR
I Win
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I Win
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 75,280
A gulag near you.
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Quote:
John-boy, do you actually read the posts before you reply or do you just have a hard time with the english language ?!?!?
Quote:
you can't get the cluster pin out the front even after you pull the key off the back as you are suggesting.
I never suggested that at all
Quote:
First off you are correct
Thank you John-boy ... this is one of the most intelligent statements you've made.
Quote:
and one would definitely not do it with the trans bolted to the bellhousing engine as you are suggesting the OP do because there is no way to push the cluster pin to the rear.
Never suggested that. In fact I actually stated why it couldn't be done but of course you didn't read that post!!
Quote:
But as far as dropping the cluster gear on an OD the manual tells you how to do it ... Unbolt the tailhousing , rotate it till you have clear access to the rear of the cluster pin , pull the soft plug from the front of the trans and push the pin out the back , the cluster gear drops down and the mainshaft is now easily able to be removed , repeat in reverse to assemble.
This would be logical to me, I wouldn't need a manual for this.
And since its just eating away at you, I called you a smarta$$ and that's all they editted out.
Stanton-girl nothing is eating away at me , I don't have a clue what your problem is ... well I have an idea but this is not the forum to hash that out in ... but you need to go back and reread what you said before you go accusing me of not being able to read or UNDERSTAND the English language ...
First you suggested this in your FIRST reply in this thread ...
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Pull the side cover, drop the driveshaft, yank the tailstock and replace all the brass rings, reassemble and drive it for years.
Sure sounds like you SUGGESTED to take the tailhousing and maingear assembly out with the trans still bolted to the bellhousing and installed in the car ...
Then you asked this when going after another member in the post the mod edited , did the mod also edit the question you posed? ...
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tell me how you'd get the shaft out from the front - particularly since there's a key in the back !!!
Once again , sounds like you asked how to get the cluster pin out of the front of the transmission after pulling the key off it?
As an aside since the OD cluster pin is a slip fit into the front of the case I think one could push the pin out the front after getting the key off ???
If the only logical thing I said was that you were correct, don't worry, that won't happen again.
volley
Mainstream Media is the new Pravda
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Re: manual trans question
[Re: EF8aar]
#1009109
06/13/11 09:38 AM
06/13/11 09:38 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 75,280 A gulag near you.
JohnRR
I Win
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I Win
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 75,280
A gulag near you.
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I assume the trans is still in the car , can't really see a lot from those pictures , there is evidence of a missed shift in there , don't know of any trans I have opened that didn't have that. The wear on the fork is from driving around with ones hand on the shifter and putting a little pressure on it, that is not causing your shifting problem. How is the downshift from second, when you can get it into it to first at speed greater than 5mph? Have you ever put it in 2nd, drove at speed and got on and off the throttle, if so does it pop out of second? How did the oil look when it came out? Can you get some sort of magnet in thru the side cover into the bottom and see if there is anything metal down there? For a test I would put a lighter oil in , maybe a mix of a GL4 oil and ATF and see if the problem still persists. If so your only choice is to drop the trans and go thru it, but it's probably going to be a little more than just changing the brass. Pay particular attention to the condition of the syncro hubs, I rebuilt one that had ATF in it for I don't know how many miles, the cluster pin had significant wear and the inside of the slider hubs and the hubs themselves were all galled up and I spent a lot of time with a small stone cleaning them up, would have been easier to just replace them. You'll also want to take a dremel and small stone and dress down the teeth that the syncros engage , get points back on them.
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Re: manual trans question
[Re: EF8aar]
#1009112
06/13/11 10:00 AM
06/13/11 10:00 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 75,280 A gulag near you.
JohnRR
I Win
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I Win
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 75,280
A gulag near you.
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Quote:
Thank you for responding. Just a little history, I bought this car with this problem, test drove it and saw how sloppy the linkages were and also could hear a slight gear or bearing noise. When I got the car I adjusted the rods and saw little improvement so I decided to rebuild the shifter. That made a big difference, but I was still not able to reach second and still heard the noise.
Yes, the trans is still in the car. I never really tested second gear like you said. Because I was afraid to drive it with that noise. The oil looked super clean when I drained it. I have reason to believe it's got GL-5 in it, because that's pretty much all I saw on the shelves at 4 stores this weekend (special order??), so I'm thinking the person before me who filled it just grabbed that. I will try a magnet tonight..
I sincerely appreciate your help. Thank you!
I would do the fluid test as cheaply as possible , fill it with ATF , and confirm the clutch is adjusted correctly and go for a drive , but if it's making a noise I would think you should just pull it and rebuild it, just get it over with considering the fluid is drained already.
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Re: manual trans question
[Re: eds dart]
#1009119
06/13/11 03:02 PM
06/13/11 03:02 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 75,280 A gulag near you.
JohnRR
I Win
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I Win
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 75,280
A gulag near you.
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Quote:
in the past when i had 4 speeds and i had problems with second gear i found the brass synchro split. the early (70 and earlier?) synchros were machined differently from later synchros. the later synchros were different and were stronger and didnt break near as often as early style synchros. seems i remember you change the synchro and its holder as an assembly. brewer probably sells a kit to do this conversion. the steel slider teeth and the gear teeth look preety good in the pictures, not a lot of wear for a gear box that always got beat on back in the day.
I scoop up cheap OD 4 speeds for this reason, take the syncro assemblies out and just buy a new 3/4 hub from one of the suppliers ...
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Re: manual trans question
[Re: JohnRR]
#1009120
06/13/11 03:37 PM
06/13/11 03:37 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,285 Ohio
64dodge572
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,285
Ohio
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The trans in question has the 70 and newer style syncro assemblies. The rings will still wear even if they haven't been abused. Just might be time for a new set. Dan
Brewers Performance Inc. 4-speed transmission and parts specialists PH 937-947-4416 or 937-698-4259 FAX 937-947-4419 www.brewersperformance.com
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