Long story short.... Cruising along the '69 decided to sputter & stall out....crank no start on the side of the road.

Checked the obvious wiring etc & all looked good. Unplugged my FBO ign module & plugged in my spare orange box with a ground lead....car fired right up.

Swapped in the orange box permanently on the side of the road....no start again! This time I swapped in a spare coil....car fired right up with spare coil & module.

For shitz & giggglez & re-swapped back in the FBO module on the side of the road & nothing...crank no start.

Get the car home for more diag work. Now I swapped back in the FBO coil....starts no problem now.
Swapped in the FBO ECU...no start.

So now my dilemma....whats up with the coils? When I got home after the ordeal the Mopar resto coil was really hot....I am running the MSD ballast that FBO provides with their kit....need to go back to a "stock" ballast to keep "stock" coil cool?

Yes a given ECU type can only switch so much pri current which as you know is the coil/ballast resistances in series (added together) plus a given coil type can only handle so much current from a particular ballast. Sounds like the FBO ECU went bad & yes the FBO ballast will prob flow too much for the OE coil. Use your MP ballast w the MP coil but post your ohm amts as you do have some leeway

Ok thanks....

I did swap back in my old setup I was running...Chrome box, resto coil & stock ballast which was .6 ohms

The MSD unit that comes with the FBO kit was .8-.9 ohms

Also measured resistance on the coils...from the center tower to either post I got 10.xx ohms out of the FBO coil & 12.xx ohms from the resto coil. Not really sure how to test a coil though....

I have been having the same problem with the FBO box and coil. My car just starts to spudder and dies when hot and I also have the MSD ballast res. Seems like when the box is hot it wont work at all. My car will not re-start when hot and acts like is flooded if it does start. I was going to re-mount the box to a cooler area inside the car or just replace it with a crane HI6 system I have from another car. I did replace the pick up in the dist and that seemed to fix the prob for a while but the problem is back now that the weather is warmer.

my ECU is terminated....just crapped out like a switch was flipped....no longer works hot or cold

I was running a MP chrome ECU, Accel 8145 coil and 1.2ohm ballast, never had a failure.

I decided to try the FBO 688 ignition for a possible performance gain. I lost 2 ballast the first 150 miles, 50 miles later the FBO ECU went, replaced it with the original MP chrome, 50 miles later I lost another ballast, then 50 miles after that my original MP chrome. Only thing left was the FBO coil. Thinking the FBO coil was the problem, I changed it for the Accel 8145 along with another MP chrome, everythings been good for the last 20,000+ miles.

My FBO box died and then the coil shortly after last summer. It was trouble free for about 5 years so I can't complain. Though the FBO supplied MSD ballast lasted about 2 days I remember.

I'm now running a resto coil and orange box that seems to run just as good or better.

A bad or shorted coil can definetly take out and ECU. Ron

not my fault

actually, if mine fails will be your fault because the first advice to get it was from you

Get a Pertronix period !

I've had both coils and ECU's go bad and shut the car off when hot. Does not matter if the ECU was Mopar or FBO. Coils were Mopar, FBO and MSD red Blaster. Have had em all fail when very hot out.

The latest coil I'm running is the black MSD high vibration coil #8222. It's filled with epoxy instead of oil. So far, so good.