Thanks Rich!!



Thanks, I definitely have some things to try now in addition to the nitrous tuneup. I've watched the video a bunch and agree it seems to run out of front travel quickly, and once the front suspension tops out the car porpoises. I don't feel that on motor but did feel it on the nitrous pass, each porpoise it felt like it unloaded the rear and tried to spin.

The torsion bars are jacked up a little in the front, mostly for oil pan clearance with all of the street driving I do. I'll have to see if I can put a smaller bump stop on it to help with the extension. It also has air shocks in the rear, those need to go as well. It has a snubber which is adjusted pretty close to the floor.

I think chassis wise next outing I'll try leaving from both a lower and higher rpm to see if it likes either of those any better. I also can try lowering the front so it has more available droop, and also letting the air out of the air shocks. I have clamps on the front of the leaf springs on both sides, I'm surprised how violent it looks after watching it slowed down, it's hitting the tire hard which from what I understand is good for a radial.

I've had multiple people tell me to not waste money on the cheaper drag valved shocks, and Vikings are the only adjustable fronts, so I think if I do anything I'll do it all - fronts, rears, caltracs and possibly their monoleafs, but only if I can't get what's on it to work.

My biggest concern, if it loads and unloads a bunch in 1st gear that it will hurt the sprag in the trans, the valve body doesn't have low band apply.