We have a large kiln we can heat the blocks in. Heat to 250 degrees for an hour. Remove block and the sleeves fall out onto the floor. Sometimes just a hot jet wash will do the trick. I have also seen people use a torpedo heater. To install the sleeves we heat the block to 250 degrees and use a Coleman cooler that can hold eight sleeves standing on end and fill the sleeves with dry ice pellets. Costs about $25. Leave in cooler for ½ hour. Wear welding gloves and the sleeves just drop into the block even if it’s an iron block. Doesn’t distort other cylinders. No sledge hammers required.
Ray Barton
 Not that you need my vote of approval. I have both KB block(s) and an Indy block. Sleeves in the KB are "O" ring fit water blocks (run dry) and basically pop in and out with minor effort. I have yet to need to pull a liner on the Indy block but as stated above and since Alum expands and absorbs heat (in this case) at twice the rate of steel I would imagine that when un-constrained by the cylinder head they would essentially drop out of the block when heated. 
'01 P1500, Blown/Inj BAE,/Veney ,Bruno/CS2,Dana 60
'01 Dodge 3500 S Cummins Auto, Fresh air kit, 4" Exhaust,
'05 Dodge Magnum R/T - Too Much to list
'60 Willys CJ5
'01 International LPX - Project,DT466, Allison
'64 Plymouth Valiant, Inj 528 Hemi, 2spd
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