Well, I can see that the front/rear valley walls (where the metal bars & 3 bolts go front/back) have not been milled. I can see how that would distort the valley pan a little bit, but I always put a bead of silicone under the front/back of the valley pan & bolt that up last after the intake is bolted on & I haven't had any leaks in those areas...not good, but seems to be working. This is a 440 & the intake doesn't sit right down on the block, so it could we worse I guess.
WAIT A MINUTE....NOW I get it....the very corners of the big block intake can hit the valley rails....the notches make sense. I never thought of that.
OK, if I use Pittsburgh's (Hughes Engines) method to check the angle & "squareness" of the intake vs. heads, those washers are going to prevent me from seeing any valley rail vs. corners of the intake interference. It "seems" like I should check that first??? How do I go about checking that?
Last edited by PurpleBeeper; 02/25/18 08:43 PM.
70 Roadrunner convt. street car
440+6, NOS, 4-spd, SS springs
'96 Mustang GT convt. street car
'04 4.6 SOHC, NOS, auto, lowered
"Officer, that button is for short on-ramps"
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