This is how I do it, no leaks always dry. In the car you will need a helper for the first test. Push the retainer up against the crank with the seal in the retainer, don't off set the seal. Measure the sides of the retainer to the block. Most likely the right and left sides will be different. Now install the bolts and remeasure. Did it change? If so open the bolt holes as they are off and pulling the seal off center. With this repaired (and it may take a different retainer). Personally I've found the stock retainer to work with no issues. Then follow this procedure. RTV along the the sides only. A small bead of anaerobic sealer between the cap and block. Fill the 45 channel at the back of the cap with RTV using a putty knife. This will be easier if the cut out in the crank flange is rotated to the side you're working on. Very important when using RTV on any surface to make sure it sticks. If you apply a thin film to both side with your finger it should stick to the surface. If it doesn't, just rolls off the surface is not clean enough. If you're careful and use a putty knife you may be able to remove the Super-Formance gasket with out ripping it. I service my race car motor by checking bearings every 100 passes and remove the pan and intake for inspection. As it uses a vacuum pump it needs to be sealed with absolutely no leaks. Hope this helps.
Doug