Just curious what recommendations others may have for tried and true gasket sealing (adhesive types) for the locations shown below.


Valve Cover: (given that these are often removed, I want good sealing but also want to be able to continue using the gasket after I adjust valves)

Intake Manifold: This is the bigger issue for me in that the Fel-Pro style embossed metal gaskets that come with adhesive around the port openings are not available for my engine (Polysphere or A-series). In the past I used Permatex high temp silicone but it's not real easy to apply coming from a tube. How about Copper-Coat or similar spray?

Thanks,

- EM

AS far as valve cover gaskets, I go contrary to the recommended practice and securely fasten the gasket to the head with # 2 Permatex.
This is better for being able to remove the VCs and not catch the gasket on rockers, disrupting the seal.

Works to your advantage on Iron heads as they now create a higher oil "wall"
as on newer Al. heads.
I smear the #2 on the inside face of the gasket where it's exposed to oil and spray a dry lube to the contact surface of the VC.

This has worked well for me on two different engines; one 906 headed and one Super Victor.

My 2 cents...Joe

For the valve cover I use permatex ultra black to adhere the gaskets to the valve cover. This way when you pull the valve cover bolts and yank the cover the gasket goes with the cover and stays 100% reusable.

I use the copper spray on the metal bathtub valley pan on my 440, however it should seal without any extra goop unless things have been milled too far out of spec.

Thanks fellas. Both are good suggestions. I had been thinking along the same lines as Joe with regard to using the gasket thickness as an added wall to contain oil. This is potentially a little more of an issue with my covers given they're only held on by 2 bolts.

- EM

First thing is to make absolutely sure your valve covers are straight, especially the flange. Over tightening of the bolt causes the cover to distort. Use a straightedge or set them on a piece of glass.

Agreed but I don't have any issues that way and have not had leaks before. Just looking for input on what others have done to seal one or the other gasket surfaces and what they prefer to use for a sealant. I appreciate your feedback nonetheless.

- EM

I always glue the VC gasket to the VC, and apply a little bit of grease or oil to the opposite side of the gasket to prevent it from sticking to the head.

What to glue it with? I've tried different stuff over the years and it all seems to work even when being an adhesive wasn't necessarily the intended purpose of the product.

-RTV
-Permatex #2
-Permatex "high tack" spray
-Permatex Aviation Form-a-gasket
-old school Indian Head gasket shellac
-Can't remember what else

Myself I like the thin adhesives a little more than the thick sealers since that's more their intended purpose and there is a whole lot less "squish out" (extrusion) to deal with, but they all work.

For the intake, if this is the traditional embossed metal gaskets with cork or foam rubber end seals for the china walls....
My preference...personally I just don't like end seals and always use RTV. I would suggest you do the same.
However If for some reason you prefer to use the end seals...I suggest gluing them down first with something really strong like 3M super trim adhesive and letting it fully set so they can not move. Even with the end seals installed, I would suggest a blob of RTV in each corner where they tend to "sweat" slightly. For the metal intake gaskets, I would use two or three coats of copper coat.

Of course another part of the topic is...I don't think too many manufacturers support Polysphere gaskets anymore. Alot of times in this type of discussion you'd have someone jump in and go, "just spend lots of money and get XYZ brand! They rule, dude!" Well in this case, XYZ brand most likely totally ignores this engine....so you have to work with regular parts store stuff.....which is really a less horrible fate than many would believe

Good luck

Anyone with suggestions for the intake gaskets? I guess this is mainly an issue with the water passages. I used a high temp silicone before but applying that by dispensing from a tube was not real easy. Moving the tube at a consistent speed while you're trying to push the tube with a consistent force is not my strong suit.

- EM

I glue my gasket with loctite adhesive to the intake then coat the other side with a film of silicone sealer. Let it cure for 24 hrs, then bolt it up. Intake comes off pretty easy too. I use superformance gaskets.

On a surface that may be suspect to not being perfectly smooth, I use Ultra Grey, GM RTV, Mopar RTV. If the component needs to removed the other side of that junction would be dry. Gluing the gasket to a flat surface with Permetex, weatherstrip adhesive, etc works well to hold the gasket in place during assembly. This would be like oil pan rails, intake face, font of the block for timing cover or water pump. Metal to metal like a motor plate Ultra grey only, no gasket at all.
Doug

Thanks fellas. dvw, are you saying one-side of your intake gaskets (the side facing the heads) are dry or without a sealant?

- EM

Yes

VCs we always used yellow 3M glue.Holds great.Used it for 30 years in the shop and still do.As for intakes juat RTV on the ends.Never used any on the intake ports and never leaked.Ive seen RTV turn cork gaskets to mush.Rocky

Yes, I've read about others that use the metal intake gaskets "Dry" and just placing a bit of RTV at the ends to fill the gap with the foam end seals. I guess FelPro and others that come with the sealant around the ports is just for added insurance.

- EM