SB 360 EQ heads stud roller chebby type rockers (my first time ever with this type!). Following Mike at B3 directions/straub vid of turning the poly locks down 6.2 turns from 90 deg right angle on base circle (.521" lift cam). I am ready to go together & the cam is gooped & lifters/pushrods/heads not on yet. How do I adj the rockers to do the least amt of cam turning to avoid wiping the lube off so I can get this thing ready to be broken it? I'd hate to have to get each lobe on base circle to adj each one unless I have to. Thank you for your time. EDIT hyd cam Howards 718041-09. 289/287 adv dur. there was something about a long duration (over 290 iirc) needing the 8 position valve adjusting chart & a lesser cam can use the 4 position chart (iirc). Not sure if this applies to this situation but I figured the more "base" info I can muster the better.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=piifbQtCzno


sometimes google is your best friend

& I am a Google afficionado (not sure why it didn't cross my mind to Google it!) Thank you, I will play it. EDIT bro that was beautiful, you do each one seperately (duh!) My mind is still on shaft systems. & there was some info there that I didn't think of like aligning the plates. Thank you again! MORE EDIT Wait a minute, after I do each one I will still be turning the eng over to do the next one so I am right back where I started at when I posted unless I absolutely have to get each pair to base circle one at a time & got no choice OR if the 4 or 8 position chart will work for this. OR I can put some more goop on the lobes when I am done.

It is using the .904 Mopar lifter size correct? If so don't worry about wiping the break in lube off of it doing the adjustment as long as you prime the oil pump and rotate the motor over while rotating the crankshaft several times by hand while priming it as long as your not running more than 350Lbs opened pressure over the nose of the lobes
You could set the preload with the intake off also and then pour some extra cam lube back onto the cam lobes when your done also

Hello Cab, that is good to hear. yes std .904" hyd lifters/308lbs. intake is (still) off & I will go ahead & goop em extra when done.

Robert, Hughes has a little cheat sheet in the tech section of their website that I found helpful. Got all adjusted in 2 crank revolutions (after however many revolutions figuring it out). Basically, you start at #1 TDC, adjust the intake, then go to 6 exhaust (if memory serves). Pretty much adjust every valve you can that is on base circle before turning the crank.

Might be worth a look...

I'm running a Magnum with a roller cam with #280ish open pressure, so didn't worry too much about wiping off the break in lobe lube.

Chris I will check that out. Yes it is gonna come down to adj as many of em that are on B/C with as few (crank) turns as possible till I get all of em. & as I have been told I am likely being too picky over this. I got other issues going on that are skewing my mechanical thinking right now but it will pass. Thanks Chris & thanks guys. EDIT I cant find their cheat sheet, only the chart that has you adj (1) in & (1) ex at every 1/4 turn (8 times).

That is the method I've used for years on race cams using the starter motor at the races or with the car in the shop
On smaller street and strip cams you can adjust both rocker arms with the piston at top dead center on the firing stroke starting with cylinder #1 and then follow the firing order to adjust #8 and so on which means you do get to adjust all eight cylinders valves with one and 3/4 revolutions of the crankshaft

Alright I will do that & add some goop/then the intake. Thanks guys.

I like that Diamond Back write up.

Robert, the cheat sheet is on P4 of the doc at this link"

http://www.hughesengines.com/Upload/productInstructions/camshaft_instructions_Oct_2018.pdf

I was incorrect that it was a separate doc.

Chris

Chris All I can see is the (8) position chart (the one that says at the end "if it wasn't correct then it wouldn't be there"), sounds like Dave Hughes's arrogance (yes I had a run in with him, more so with his helper, Kevin iirc).

Yeah, that's the one I was speaking of. I thought that was a pretty arrogant comment at the end there too. I've picked up on a bit of that in dealing with them (must be company culture). That said, they have not steered me wrong, and shopping carefully, they haven't excessively lightened my wallet.

It actually took me a while to get the method to the madness and I bet they've fielded a ton of related calls because one of us nose pickers drafted the doc up, and not someone with proper knowledge AND technical writing skills. Updating the doc would be better than that little hissy fit comment.

I do like the Diamond Back write up, someone with the proper understanding and writing skills put that together.

Tim is the guy I deal with there. I have to say, he's left my money on the table a couple of times by pointing out that my plan tended toward overkill with regard to strength and reliability.

early on I had a good/long conversation with Dave & their tech is top notch ex not sure about the rocker geometry as he talks alot about getting it right on the pushrod side for max lift & Mike at B3 & straub are adament about getting 90 deg at half lift on the valve side (maybe get both dead on). I had a run in with Daves' helper Kevin or Tim iirc & I should just call him & see if he recollects it & get it worked out & get over it. I know they used their caller ID & wouldn't take a call from me after that!

HA! That, somehow, does not surprise me.

The impression of their attitude toward their stud mounted rocker setups on Magnums is that it works, its a relative bargain and you've got it as good as its going to get, add a stud girdle if you're regularly above 7K. If you don't like it, buy one of our shaft setups.

The only way I can see to get decent geometry is with an adjustable guide plate, or, cut and weld the ones that are available, and even then I think machine work would be needed to get it perfect.

Where I am at now is with the roller being too close to the ex side edge of the valve tip. Mike at B3 said to run (1) race then see if it starts to smudge. Options are relocate the stud hole a bit inward/different rockers that have a shorter section on either side of the fulcrum (which maintains the 1.6), neither of which I wanna do right now (both $$$ & time consuming on the machining) so hopefully the tips stay good when the time comes (This coming April).

I'll be curious to see. Even if it doesn't smudge, it seems like the valves and guides would see accelerated wear from side loading, as well as some extra heat in the oil.