The old Mopar engine books listed rpms for stock bottom ends and I think both the 383 and the 440 checked in at 6200. Probably been 15 years since I saw that chart. Trying to think of where my book is. Anybody have one to confirm?

I think its 5200 RPM's on a stock 383. In the old days I did a lot of street racing with a stock 383 Dart, and shifted it at 5200 RPM redline. I know my engine would sound like it was screaming at 5200 RPM's. And I could never see any gains above that.

Early 70's. 383 circle track car. Stock rods w/arp rod bolts, General Kinetics solid cam, oil restricted to cam bearings and left side lifter gallery, double pick up oiling system. Believe me the lifter galleries can be a big source of oil leakage, you don't have to block it off just slip a piece of allen wrench into the feed hole. Turned this engine 7200 to 7800 rpm's twice every lap for 3 years with same rod and main bearings. It can be done. I know the question was for a stock 383, just thought I'd throw this in here.

I'd ballpark 5500 rpm....and you're probably better off (speed wise) to shift it around 4500'ish for maximum speed (just a ballpark) since you will be making less horsepower when the engine is revved up to 5500 rpm.

If you have a stick shift car & like to rev up motors high, then definitely install an rpm limiter. I blew a motor missing a 2nd to 3rd gear shift many years ago.

We all heard of "short shifting" back in the day. Well we tried that, 4500 4800 5000 5200 5500, never, ever, picked up ET till we went back to 6800, this was on a very mild 440 with stock 906 heads. My 383 wouldn't Et untill it was turning 6500. The Max wouldn't freight train untill 6500, 7000 thru the lights. Whole lot of BS thru the years that's repeated. It's all in the setup.
Might add, all non ported heads.

But the OPs question is about blowing it up, not what is the right shift point. So I think you are being appropriately responsive to the OPs question, IMO.

We have no information on what's in his "stock" motor, so no way could we even guess to what the right shift point would be.

If it is a 335 HP 383, factory peak power was 5200, suggesting to me the best shift was probably 5500 to 5700 rpm. If you want to slow your car down, shift at peak power.

Not sure its really possible to easily blow up a stock cammed 383 if you keep oil in the pan.

Back in the 80's my cousin worked for a towing company in Northern California. One day he was tasked with getting a '69 383 roadrunner they had impounded ready for sale. He asked me to follow him & the Roadrunner a couple miles from the impound yard to the main storefront because they already had a buyer lined up for the next day.

What I witnessed next flat blew me away and I was laughing my ass off in amazement.

So my Cousin pulls up to a stop to make a right to go over an overpass across I-80. He then pops the Torqueflight into neutral,floors it, and somewhere near the stratosphere drops the now screaming 'Runner into low. The whole car lurched up & forward and I swear the 8 3/4 was going to come flying out of there and hit me since I was right behind him in my 'Bee. Tires vaporized instantly and after about 150 feet he popped 2nd and the tires stayed lit, engine screaming for mercy like I'd never heard a 383 rev before. He repeated this drill 3 more times on the way.

The next day, buyer shows up, she fires the now violated 'Runner up, purrs like a kitten, no strange noises at all, takes it for a test drive, runs, shifts, and drives great. She forks out $700, closes the deal and motors off happy as a clam!

I was throwing that out on the engine holding up. I don’t think a 440 with a stock cam will like buzzing it up there at 6200 since a 383 with same cam wouldn’t either. My understanding was those chart were for what you could expect to get by with on a stock bottom but modded engine. Wish I could find my book.