now that the season is pretty much done, the car performed extremely well, driver was so so. i need to work on my lights and get consistent. I was usually either red or way late, no happy medium. I am looking for any tips on cutting decent lights and what practice tree do you guys recommend? how do you figure out how to set up the tree to compensate for the time it takes the car to react/ rollout? I installed an adjustable trans brake button 2 races ago that I am also trying to sort out.

Your staging might be erratic. After I trip the pre stage bulb, I just roll in deep enough to get the stage bulb to flicker. There is a little room for you to go deep or shallow with both bulbs on, depending on tire size and stagger. You might not be locating in the same spot every time.

My car high runs 1.2x 60 ft. Foot brake, full tree. I use .350 rollout. Set both the pro and full to the same rollout. When practicing I start on pro then switch to full. Once you practice enough both groupings will get closer. Practice makes you better.
Doug

I would start in the .320 range. But i wouldn't get to caught up in that though. Use the practice tree to work on your form and tightening up your swing. i found putting a plug on your button cord so you can hook up the tree while in the car is the best practice...

i have the Biondo final round full tree.

Al

I also have the Biondo full size tree that uses the small, table top unit to run it. I had fabed up a wiring harness to allow me to unplug the trans switch and adapt it to the Biondo box. Set the big tree up in front of the car as far away as practical. Allows you to practice in the car using the actual tranbrake switch. You can work on ergonomics, technique, switch operation etc., in the driver seat.

this was shared with me the middle of this year. one of the things I have been working on. probably still could be better, but trying to make sure i'm in the same spot every time . same friend told me to make my self consistent and then change the car to fit me. for some reason I am not seeing I am all over the board with reaction times. the car is very very consistent itself.

Just so we are all on the same page what do you consider consistent.

for example in a back to back race over 2 days a Saturday and a sunday I made 11 passes all with in .03 of each other. that was exceptional couple days but usually within a tenth over the course of a few races and weather changes. low 10.20's to low 10.30's the extremes this year was 10.19 on a 56* day and 10.36 on a 96* day. 60's run 1.42 to 1.43. the 10.36 was a 1.45. i have had several race days where i kept the car within a .05 window on e.t. but my reaction times again are always anybody's guess lol

If the 60fts get slow when the R/T's get quick or vice versa your staging is inconsistent. I try to hold my foot brake R/T's to .020+/- .010/. The car to .01 or less on index.
Doug

I'm struggling with the same problem. Couple good lights, then some way late & some red. I'm sure lack of seat time is not helping.
I just bought the ProTree Pocket Pal practice tree to see if it's me or the car. So far, it looks like I'm the problem. I have it set-up as a .5 second full tree, roll-out at .290, delay box set at 1.040. I can get a string of .00x & .01x lights & then a .04x or .05x on the practice tree. Couple things that seems to make a difference on the practice tree is to make sure the hand that holds the button is braced against something solid. And the button press & release movement is inline with the button,
Good luck & let me know if you find the secret.

Analyze how you look at the bulb. The mind needs a specific focus. Simply looking at the bulb isn't good enough. Your vision will begin to jump all around, as there are too many features, distracting the brain. Focus on the interior detail, or edge of the socket. Try this with your practice tree.