Are you saying you want me to drill #4 emulsion blank hole to .026?

do your metering blocks have threaded emulsion holes?
if so, put blanks in all spots except #1 and #4. you can also do #1 and #3 though...

What he sad............if they are threaded, plug 2, 3, and 5 if not drill n tap em for 6-32 set screws...........

I plugged mine with a piece of lead shot.

For sure easier than drilling n tappin just not as clean plus a [censored] if you want to play w/different emulsion sizes and locations...........

I want to get going down the road at this point without fouling plugs is all.No mistake I will do more tuning on the metering plate and appreciate your help.

If you go all out on this thing and get it bad ass, not only will you learn how to tune each circuit but you will have a damn near EFI running car and plugs and oil will go many more miles than before GUARANTEED....................

Just to see what it would take I used a small fishing line crimp on sinker,pounded it flat to .090 and cut into slivers with a wood chisel to fit but I didn't try to pound it in.

I got to go around the block and things are looking good with the carb adjustments given so Thank you thumperdart!I have more to do but I can drive it to do so.The a/f was in the 13 to 14.5 but I had a 84 in the sec jet and will put in a 86 and see.

You are welcome and glad I could help ya out.............

I now have 88 pri 91 sec jetting and I am getting ready to put in the power valve and adjust the channel restriction.The car launches ok with a slight spit out the carb after the pump shot burns off and the engine temp was only 130.I will test the pv effect with a test launch and a hotter engine and check the plugs and go for a longer drive above 3k rpm to see the o2.
ps:The sec open at 1/4 throttle so it comes in early.

Bump for my info I need to read.

My question at this point is with t-slot jetting.I put in a .047 pri/sec and now I am fouling plugs.What jet would you go to to get an a/f from 11/1 to the 13/1 range?I was thinking of going to a .040 on all 4 with no pv and sq jetting.I took the air filter off and started having fuel fouled plugs.

I would think under 0.050 t slot would be getting on the too small .
IIRC my 1050 is 0.059 or a hair smaller. This is where I have it now on my 505 , may have been a hair bigger on my 440 . 505 pulls harder on carb . On the 440 it was #82F #98R , on the 505 I only needed to go #100 rear . It has a PV
Have you altered the IFR jetting , I took mine from 0.045 to 0.044 and lowered it . Was noticeable . I also increased to PVCR from 0.070 - 0.073
I do think I need to increase the T slot back a hair for street driving , though it is winter here and I will see how it goes as it warms up .
I am running the 1050SP sportsman aluminium 4500 .
Good luck . Knowing it will never be perfect I am looking for close , 90%

Tex

Thanks for the tips.I have the carb off and making some set screw jets [brass]If I was giving advice on this I would say check the pv gasket.I put on an 850 while I look hard at things,clean,think more of what I am doing.I work slow.

A good O2 system can be a great help dialing in carbs.
Especially pump gas big CFM carbs. like Dominator and 950+ CFM 4150 carbs.
With enough work you can make them motors real tire spinners

I have the o2 on the dash but with sun glare is hard to see sometimes.The o2 helps a lot.
ps here you can see the o2 is hard to see. Test launch a/f

Will your set up store data?
Mime does, Innovate LM1 with the RPM and LC1 add on for dual readings instead of one side only
Push record and read it later on the desk top or have some one watch it in real time with a lap top in the car

I am trying to use the video to record all info but I think it can plug into a laptop.I don't remember to turn on the camera half the time.lol