Uncle Sam decided to give me more of my money back this year, so I'm doing my part and stimulating the economy with it.

Going to put a Sniper EFI kit on my 512, but I need a fuel system. This being a Fifth Avenue there isn't any aftermarket support in the way of pre-bent lines or retrofit EFI gas tanks.

I'm thinking of using that copper-nickle alloy tubing for the lines, 3/8" feed and return. I've read of people using it in carb'd applications, but not so much with fuel injection. Is it OK at higher pressures? I really don't want to screw around with SS and only want to do this once (hence the corrosion resistance).

For the pump something that installs in the tank would be preferred. I've read on the 340 Aeromotive retrofit kit. I don't relish replacing the tank though; which I see is commonplace for this type of install. I replaced the tank ten years ago and the car sits in a garage - it still looks new.

Ideas?

Again, thanks guys. This forum has been a god send over the years.

so I went with a surge tank instead of intank for the same reason. I didn't want to replace a new tank.

for the lines, I actually ran a new rubber efi line from the high pressure pump all the way forward. I used the plastic armor type sheilding where it might be hit by something and around corners. I bought a whole roll and took back what I didn't use.

and I used the original lines as the return.

If you ran the surge tank at the engine compartment(I couldn't find a good place) you could minimize the high pressure run and everything from the tank and back could be low pressure.

I found the cost to be cheaper going surge tank vs a new efi tank. I also ran into issues just plumbing in a high pressure pump everytime I accelerated on less than half a tank so that is why I added it.
car would nose over.

I know the areomotive has that sponge stuff and holley has the mat, but both seemed to be expensive and the holley mat was only rated for 10 years I think before it degrades and has to be replaced.

Inline Walbro 255. Ran two since 2013. No issues.

Aeroquip Socketless Hose, temperature range is good from -40* F / 300* F. 250psi. It's used on OEM Commercial applications. I use a simple $15 Klein PVC cutting tool, works better than a Razor to make a clean cut. Other than that, just fab up some aluminum 1/2" forward / return lines.

About 12-years ago I had the factory tank sumped in a fox-body mustang, this may be another alternative. Only cost $200 +/- back then.

I'm doing the same thing but I'll use a Super Sniper kit. I put the Aeromotive pump in my existing tank. Had to have a pro weld in a small pocket for the pump. I used braided hose for the fuel lines but steel would work better. You can probably use the stock fuel line as a return and just add a duplicate. Maybe even buy a stock fuel line and use it. The high pressure pumps don't require a big fuel line.

The best option is to put the pump in the tank, Keeps it cooler and less noise. I have done a few and the external pumps are loud. If you have to got external get and pump controller to slow it down at idle/low load conditions. The controller cuts the noise alot and helps with heat.

Stock style steel line works fine for EFI. I use Inline Tube re-pop 3/8" for supply and 5/16" for return with Aeromotive regulator in the engine compartment. I am running 50 psi fuel pressure with FAST XFI. Road track and X country.

For flex connections at the tank and engine (and filter possibly) you could use EFI spec rubber. I chose to use braided AN hose. I double flared the steel tube and used needed adapters to AN.

The factory steel line packages well around the rear spring hangers and is tough.

For pumping duties, I tried a frame rail mounted high pressure pump. Not good. It cavitated and failed (twice). I switched to in tank pump which has been trouble free. A surge tank can work well also I believe... with suitable low pressure pump to feed the surge tank and high pressure pump from the surge tank to engine.

My first setup was a stock tank with a sump and pump mounted under the tank using carriage bolts in the tank straps to hold the pump bracket. With the external pump, had to run a 100 micron pre-filter too. It worked fine but did not look good having the sump, filter, and pump all under the tank.

I like the in-tank fuel pump. The pump has the screen/hydromat so don't need the separate pre-filter like an external setup. The in-tank pump also runs cooler and quieter, but really it is just less connections and a cleaner install. The issues with the in-tank setup is fuel pickup when the tank is low on fuel, and tank to trunk floor clearance for the pump fittings. For your application it looks like you would have to modify the tank for clearance?

The surge tank was a solution for keeping the EFI pump submerged in fuel before the pumps with sumps, hydromat, and EFI baffled tanks existed. It is many more connections and lines, and an extra fuel pump. In my opinion, the money spent on a surge tank could be spent in modifying a stock tank for EFI. If you don't want to work/weld on your old tank that had gas in it, those tanks are less than $100 brand new.

I have the Aeromotive Phantom 340, and did the swap in 2015, it's great, no fuel pump noise, picks up fuel well, etc. My opinion is an in tank pump is a must for longevity.

If you're willing to do so, I'd imagine you could fill the tank with water while you're drilling the holes to mitigate any explosiveness of the fuel vapor.

You are referring to "NiCopp" tubing? Its DOT approved for brake line so it will work fine for fuel line. I have a reproduction 3/8 steel line for feed and a home made 3/8 return. The rest of the lines are Aeroquip TFE

You've seen my car, nobody has any idea it has EFI (and multiport with coil near plug) unless the hood is open.

Thanks for input guys. In a previous thread it was recommended to run the same size return as the feed (3/8th), so that's I planned to do. The cost of the line is trivial with the nickle copper stuff.

I thought about a surge tank, but I'm trying to clean the bay up. Might even mount the MSD inside the car.

You guys are right, an in-tank solution is the best way to do it. It would add about $1k to the cost of the conversion though and I just can't swing that this year. I think I'm going to order the Sniper kit that includes the fuel pump and mount it outside the front of the tank. There is a plastic splash shield between the diff and the tank that I can replace with a fabricated one out of aluminum; which should give me a good place to mount the pump lower than the fuel level. This only needs to last a year. I'll use next year's budget to install a pump in the tank.

Thanks guys.

Did a couple of LS installs on FJ40s a couple years back, used a Corvette in-line pump for 58PSI. Wasn't very loud, parts-store stuff, maybe $50-ish. Frankly I was surprised how well they work, as generally the high-pressure pumps are better off in-tank being cooled by the fuel.
I've used the Moroso aluminum tubing & Earl's fittings on several cars, oldest was done in 1988; all still going strong. Pretty easy to work with & follow factory routing. I use fire sleeve as covering to prevent damage, and of course grommets for through-frame routing.

I've seen the Corvette in-line pump mod mentioned on other forums before. What years was that pump used? Thanks!

Been learning more on this EFI stuff.
On the return line, you might be able to use stock 5/16" line, with 3/8" supply, but if starting from scratch, 3/8" return is the easy choice.
It seems the return size will depend on the pump flow rate, and pressure.
The interesting part is the lower the rail pressure (by-passing more fuel), the larger return line needed. Also, higher engine vacuum will lower the rail pressure (regulator referenced to manifold pressure) even more from the static regulator setting. It just seems strange to me that the lower performance engine would need the larger return lines, but you have to by-pass more fuel.

I tested this idea on my setup. 3/8" supply and 5/16" return through re-pop steel lines (most of the way... some AN at connections). With the fuel pump "on", a really big A1000 pump and a charger on the battery to simulate running voltage conditions I could regulate a steady pressure down to about 30 PSI. Since I was running 45 PSI fuel pressure this works fine.

As mentioned above low fuel pressure would require a bigger return line. With 45 psi target pressure, 5/16" return worked fine. Also no regulation issues after quite a few miles.

The Charger with the FiTech seemed to work fine with a Walbro 450 LPH pump using the built-in FiTech regulator at 4-bar (58 psi), but I have 3/8 return and supply on that car.
The Coronet convertible has 3/8" supply, 5/16" return (at the tank, using the Spectra EFI fuel tank with built-in EFI pump.) The pump is a Welbro 225 LPH pump (for now, might change it out if I use E-85.)
I forgot if that system is 3 or 4 bar pressure regulator on that setup? I am thinking just 3 bar (43.5 psi.)
I need to quit messing with the Charger and get the convertible back on the road for the summer.

Just posting a follow up. I bought the master kit that included an external fuel pump and made a bracket out of aluminum to mount it to and mounted that to the tank strap bolts. Had just enough clearance between the tank and diff. Replaced the factory steel lines with 3/8" nickle-copper for both the feed and return. Was also able to use bulkhead fitting in the sender to plumb 3/8" into the tank. Worked well. Thanks again Moparts.