Looking to de-tune my '74 Charger with 440 a bit. First, monster cam had to go. Car had a 2500 stall converter, but looking to go back with a stock application. Motor is a '74 now back with stock HP cam. Not really looking for anything fancy, just want to make the car more street-able.

What and where to buy for a stock converter? Transstar, Autozone? Any suggestions welcome.

Thanks!

Rebuilt stock 340 converter is the way to go. Works great in a combo like yours.

166K MP if you find some ( PN P4876878AB )... I got one 175K used coupe of times after a fresh Chrysler remanufacture ( still on its box ) in barelly $75, but I THINK for a 400 with HP camshaft 166K is way enough.

the hard part is get one at this moment since they are discontinued now.

Probably the best factory performance converter is the 2801764 introduced in '68, this is a 10 3/4" converter used on the /6, 318, 340, 383-4 and later 440.

This is often referred to as a 2500 converter but will stall as low as 1700 and as high as 2800 depending on the power input.

What does the stall test show for this converter in your car - today.

A good 440 with the production 10-3/4" converters will stall right around 2200-2800 depending on engine build and which converter.

If your converter today stalls at a real 2500 you'll gain little if anything by going to any of the suggested converters, they'll likely get you the same result you have.

If you are trying to kill low end slip then just install the production 440 11-3/4" converter - used on all the 440 engines - Sixbbl and 4 bbl.

I believe it is a 2500 stall converter, according to PO. It is made by SMR, and has TF3R written on it. I don't know enough about converters to really translate any of this info.

If this is something that I could continue to run, and not have it drive like a race car, and that I could still cruise in, I'd be great with that.

Any info on what I have would be great! Thanks!

340clone - I would check the stall speed with your current package. Engine fully warmed up, bury your foot on the brake pedal and raise the engine speed until the tires break loose. Shouldn't take more than 2 or 3 seconds to get to the max engine speed.

Do that once, run in neutral for 30 seconds place in drive and do it again. Average your two results and that should get you a fairly accurate stall speed. If by chance you have a manual shift auto place it in third and do the test.

For a few hundred RPM potential change sounds like you may be better off leaving things alone.

Starting with a new converter opens you up to all kinds of potential issues.

340clone - I would check the stall speed with your current package. Engine fully warmed up, bury your foot on the brake pedal and raise the engine speed until the tires break loose. Shouldn't take more than 2 or 3 seconds to get to the max engine speed.

Do that once, run in neutral for 30 seconds place in drive and do it again. Average your two results and that should get you a fairly accurate stall speed. If by chance you have a manual shift auto place it in third and do the test.

For a few hundred RPM potential change sounds like you may be better off leaving things alone.

You have a known quantity with this converter.
Starting with a new converter opens you up to all kinds of potential issues.

The other thing many people don't understand is that STR differs between converters.
They all look alike from the outside.

I'm thinking it's a cast crank engine. That makes buying just any converter much more difficult.

R.

The TF3R is what SMR calls their PRO SPORTSMAN 10 3/4" 'Race Tuff' TORQUE CONVERTER

http://smrtrans.tripod.com/smrtransmissionsintro/id37.html

It's for street applications, I'd keep it.