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#1195326 - 03/11/12 09:33 PM which is more consistent for bracket raceing
slowpoke68 Offline
member

Registered: 02/13/12
Posts: 5
Loc: california,usa
i'm in a possition to run either a big block or a small block.my big question is which would be wore consistent to run bracket races small block or big block?i want to run low 10s but do not run the motor to hard or have something very costly to run.what's the best

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#1195327 - 03/11/12 09:38 PM Re: which is more consistent for bracket raceing [Re: slowpoke68]
WHITEDART Offline
super stock

Registered: 10/06/11
Posts: 1041
Loc: bean town
i would put the big block in the trunk so it will hook and the small block under the hood for power
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#1195328 - 03/11/12 09:42 PM Re: which is more consistent for bracket raceing [Re: WHITEDART]
tubtar Offline
top fuel

Registered: 11/07/09
Posts: 2370
Loc: St. Paul , Mn.
I'd say big block but there are only a thousand other factors in what makes a consistent car.
Having a motor that isn't stretched out every lap will yield more consistent performance , and that will be easier with a big block for the E.T.'s you are looking for.

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#1195329 - 03/11/12 09:47 PM Re: which is more consistent for bracket raceing [Re: slowpoke68]
MR_P_BODY Offline
Master

Registered: 06/13/03
Posts: 44752
Loc: Romeo MI
Any engine can run consistent if its tuned right...
to make a car consistent I would make it LIGHT which
is easier on parts
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#1195330 - 03/11/12 09:48 PM Re: which is more consistent for bracket raceing [Re: tubtar]
moparacer Offline
top fuel

Registered: 03/30/03
Posts: 1958
Loc: PA
Either way... Make it big inch.

Small engines seem to be more susceptible to changes in the air.
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67 Barracuda street/bracket car 11.27-119 68 Dart 9.16-145 414 cid SB Dragster 7.65-174

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#1195331 - 03/11/12 09:48 PM Re: which is more consistent for bracket raceing [Re: slowpoke68]
Just-a-dart Offline
super stock

Registered: 02/20/11
Posts: 809
Loc: Glendora Ca.
I'd build a alum. headed low deck big block like a 451. or steal all the parts you can from "whitedart" and go smallblock.
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#1195332 - 03/11/12 09:49 PM Re: which is more consistent for bracket raceing [Re: tubtar]
HotRodDave Online   content
master

Registered: 01/29/05
Posts: 8102
Loc: Kalispell Mt.
With a SB you can get a lot of weight off the front and that can help you hook more consistantly
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#1195333 - 03/11/12 11:37 PM Re: which is more consistent for bracket raceing [Re: HotRodDave]
gregsdart Offline
master

Registered: 01/21/03
Posts: 7116
Loc: Frostbite falls, Mn ( Home of ...
You want to run low tens? At what weight? Lets say you budget to get down to 3200 lbs. You will need 625/650 hp on the dyno to run 10.0s consistently in average midwest air. My choice would be a 512 bb based on a 400 block. A set of massaged small port heads, run E85, and a glide. A 590 or similar flat tappet cam ought to do the trick. A set of 14/32 slicks on 14 inch rims and you should be absolutely deadly once dialed in.
About a 5000 converter (no less), shift at 6000 rpm and it will last a LONG time. You probably will want to run a 4.10 gear also. I had a 475 with 440-c heads, a juice cam with .540 lift and a small 750 methanol carb and went 10 teens at 3180 lbs as an example of what can be done with out breaking the bank.
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GREG
Educated at SHK U
Measure with yardstick
mark with chalk
cut with torch!



528 cubic inch alky injected 440-1 wedge, 3055 race weight.
8.779 at 153.16 mph. 1.289 60 ft. density altitude 1617 feet. Best 60 ft 1.24

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#1195334 - 03/12/12 01:13 AM Re: which is more consistent for bracket raceing [Re: gregsdart]
tubtar Offline
top fuel

Registered: 11/07/09
Posts: 2370
Loc: St. Paul , Mn.
Quote:

You want to run low tens? At what weight? Lets say you budget to get down to 3200 lbs. You will need 625/650 hp on the dyno to run 10.0s consistently in average midwest air. My choice would be a 512 bb based on a 400 block. A set of massaged small port heads, run E85, and a glide. A 590 or similar flat tappet cam ought to do the trick. A set of 14/32 slicks on 14 inch rims and you should be absolutely deadly once dialed in.
About a 5000 converter (no less), shift at 6000 rpm and it will last a LONG time. You probably will want to run a 4.10 gear also. I had a 475 with 440-c heads, a juice cam with .540 lift and a small 750 methanol carb and went 10 teens at 3180 lbs as an example of what can be done with out breaking the bank.




S'what I'm talkin about.
Losing weight makes a ton of sense too , but a big motor that isn't maxed out will be the most cost effective and reliable route to my way of thinking.

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#1195335 - 03/12/12 09:59 AM Re: which is more consistent for bracket raceing [Re: gregsdart]
Dabee Offline
pro stock

Registered: 11/07/03
Posts: 1494
Loc: Dandridge TN
Quote:

You want to run low tens? At what weight? Lets say you budget to get down to 3200 lbs. You will need 625/650 hp on the dyno to run 10.0s consistently in average midwest air. My choice would be a 512 bb based on a 400 block. A set of massaged small port heads, run E85, and a glide. A 590 or similar flat tappet cam ought to do the trick. A set of 14/32 slicks on 14 inch rims and you should be absolutely deadly once dialed in.
About a 5000 converter (no less), shift at 6000 rpm and it will last a LONG time. You probably will want to run a 4.10 gear also. I had a 475 with 440-c heads, a juice cam with .540 lift and a small 750 methanol carb and went 10 teens at 3180 lbs as an example of what can be done with out breaking the bank.




Hay you just described my combo with some minor differences. I have an RB block, 4.15 stroke, 496 ci, OTB Eddy heads, 5.60 lift, PG, 5400 stall converter, 4.67 gears and 14-31-15 slicks on a 12 in rim. The car weighs 2900 lbs and it is deadly consistent. It runs 6.56 1/8 mile in 2000 to 3000ft DA.
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#1195336 - 03/12/12 10:11 AM Re: which is more consistent for bracket raceing [Re: Dabee]
Al_Alguire Offline


Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 14536
Loc: Rockville MD & Las Vegas
I agree that with work any combo can be dealdy consistent. Just takes hard work and persaverance.

To the posters question in my mind a BB would be the best choice. The reason being it will be a much more mild engine build. I also think you can build a 650ish HP BB for less money than a SB of similar power levels.

But either can be made consistent. Being a consistent money winning bracket racer is about the total package not just the power plant. Every part of the car needs to be built, tweaked with an eye toward repeatability.
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#1195337 - 03/13/12 09:54 PM Re: which is more consistent for bracket raceing [Re: gregsdart]
slowpoke68 Offline
member

Registered: 02/13/12
Posts: 5
Loc: california,usa
good ideal about the big block but its all about combinations right? i just pick up a 68 dart that i plan on haveing some fiberglass,10.5 slicks,3 spd trans and try to keep the weight down to 2900 or so i guess a diet program is in the works also

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#1195338 - 03/14/12 12:13 AM Re: which is more consistent for bracket raceing [Re: slowpoke68]
Al_Alguire Offline


Registered: 01/20/03
Posts: 14536
Loc: Rockville MD & Las Vegas
If it is about consistency then ditch the three speed and go with a glide..One less shift, one less area for inconsistency to occur. Just saying
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#1195339 - 03/14/12 11:52 AM Re: which is more consistent for bracket raceing [Re: Al_Alguire]
polyspheric Offline
pro stock

Registered: 10/10/07
Posts: 1501
Loc: New York
X2 - less violent launch due to taller 1st gear ratio, plus half as many shifts.

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#1195340 - 03/14/12 12:11 PM Re: which is more consistent for bracket raceing [Re: polyspheric]
moparacer Offline
top fuel

Registered: 03/30/03
Posts: 1958
Loc: PA
Yep if you wanna look cool and do a big wheelie put a bunch of gear in it and a 727/904.

If you want to go rounds bracket racing take some gear out, put a glide in it and run a looooose converter...

Probably 2-3 tenths slower that way but you will turn more win lights on. Especially if you are running in the 9s on questionable tracks.
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67 Barracuda street/bracket car 11.27-119 68 Dart 9.16-145 414 cid SB Dragster 7.65-174

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#1195341 - 03/14/12 12:48 PM Re: which is more consistent for bracket raceing [Re: moparacer]
RodStRace Offline
I Live Here

Registered: 09/21/05
Posts: 12327
Loc: Chino Valley
Big tires=no traction issues
Solid, simple chassis=consistant hook
Light weight=less strain and wear
Build toward more torque, less HP=less RPM, less wear and maintainence
solid, strong trans and converter=same performance
Gas is cheaper, but alky is more forgiving of A/F ratios and doesn't require as big a cooling system.
There are lots of 15-18 second cars that are deadly, but you say 10s.
Either a BB a-body with a good chassis and suspension and a solid big inch low RPM combo 2800-3200# or a tube car with an alky small block that weighs under 2400#. I've seen SB A bodys run 10s all day long. They require more money up front and more parts/maintenance.
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#1195342 - 03/14/12 09:13 PM Re: which is more consistent for bracket raceing [Re: RodStRace]
gregsdart Offline
master

Registered: 01/21/03
Posts: 7116
Loc: Frostbite falls, Mn ( Home of ...
I have found that the torqueflite isn't a consistency problem as long as you have good weight distribution and a proper setup, plus the recommended big tires. Rear gears should be a little on the tall side for two reasons. Cut launch torque some, and for consistency on the shifts. If I can make a three speed deadly at 8.90s, I can't see why it can't be done in the tens. The one area you might have a problem with is on a pro tree. I have a Griner brake, one of the best. I am on the bubble as far as car reaction time goes. So if you plan on 9.90 (.400 light)or quicker pro tree racing in the future then the glide will be a good choice.
_________________________
GREG
Educated at SHK U
Measure with yardstick
mark with chalk
cut with torch!



528 cubic inch alky injected 440-1 wedge, 3055 race weight.
8.779 at 153.16 mph. 1.289 60 ft. density altitude 1617 feet. Best 60 ft 1.24

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