1320 Challenger ets?

Looking at picking up a Challenger 1320. What kind of times are you running stock? Do they really run 11.7s stock? And what are some of the best mods? Are you happy with your 1320. And any info you would share to a person about to order one? Thanks

Go to the race section and look at Brad_Haack. He has a new 1320 he has been racing on the regular.

From what I have seen here locally in decent air they go 11.80s or so.

They are right at the 11.80's to low 12's depending on the air density - mine off the show room floor ran 11.97 as a best so far

In good air, with the standard clothe interior w/o passenger seat or rear seat, I'd expect I could see 11.7s in good air where I am (Mid-Atlantic). Bone stock, with the full leather interior upgrade and my 200 lbs in it, my car's squeaked into the 11.8s on one pass and 11.9s on a couple early in the year. Basically, it's a 12.0 car with potential to go a bit quicker or a bit slower depending on the weather / track location / etc.

The only mods I've done are a drop-in K&N filter (which I haven't proved to be an improvement or not) and I picked up some discontinued Race Star Recluse wheels so I can run Mickey Thompson ET Street Front 28-6.00x18 and ET Street S/S 305/40R18 tires the days I drive to the track. The standard Nexen 275/40R20 drag radials worked OK when new and on a well-prepped track. However, they'll get sketchy well before the tread's worn out and any short-sidewall tire is going to have trouble hooking consistently on less-than-perfect starting lines.

The car isn't necessarily faster w/ the MT tires & wheels combo, but it's much more predictable getting off the line. The OEM Nexens would either stick, or they'd hop & spin. My last track day was Saturday and the purpose was to see where I need to set the rear tire pressure w/ the MTs to get a more consistent 60-ft. The lighter front tires & wheels may add a touch of MPH, but the rear tire & wheel setup is also heavier than stock. I'm running less air pressure in the rears now, which may scrub off some MPH. However, if the car won't hook consistently, it doesn't matter to me if it's faster on the passes that it does hook.

I don't know of any cheap "bolt-on" mods for these cars to increase engine performance. And that's not really my intent, either. This is my daily driver that allows me to go have fun at the track while I'm still trying to pull a miracle outta my a$$ and get my '73 Challenger back to the track. Here's a snapshot of all my full 1/4 mile passes, meaning it doesn't include any pass where it simply blew off the tires or the 1/8th mile bracket event I raced a couple weeks ago.

To run 11.70 with the advertised curb weight of 4150 would take 512 HP according to walleracing HP calculator and that don't include a driver or any optional stuff. If you can still run 11.7 with 200 LBS of driver that takes 536 HP, pretty impressive for a "485" HP engine I would say!

Horsepower calculations based on ET never made sense to me. You can improve ET with changes that have nothing to do with HP or weight. The calculations based on weight and MPH are a better approach to estimating horsepower.

I scaled my 1320 with the aftermarket wheels & tires and fuel level well under 1/4 full: the car by itself was 4097. With me and and some extra fuel, it's definitely 4300+. HP calc'd for 4300 lbs at 113 MPH is right about 485, which is the factory rated net HP. That's very close to my baseline for "at sea level" corrected MPH with ETs in the 12.0 range.

Thanks, I like the real world info.

I should also mention that I really like this car. . Pics shortly after purchase and from a recent day at the track w/ the other wheels & tires.

Very Nice!!! I'm kind of hoping Plum Crazy will be back in 2023 models. Haven't heard a thing about color options yet

What am I missing on the 11.8@115.6MPH run? Was it also around 4300 LBS? Is it wrong to pick the best run? Even plugging the 115.6 MPH and 4300 LBS into wallerracing calculator is still over 510HP. I don't see a drop in K&N giving you 25 HP and it is my understanding the calculator is based on wheel HP not flywheel HP. All I'm saying is that in my opinion the 6.4 is very underrated not just in stock form but how easy it is to get more HP when truly un-corked with things like good long tube headers and a better intake and proper tuning that's not compromised for warranty, MPG and emissions considerations.

Best mod for the 392 is a tune from a reputable professional, I've seen as much 30-50hp increases and they can also remove the torque management between shifts (ECU pulls timing when shifting to be easier on the trans), which helps even more than the power increase. They can e-mail you a tune but you'll need a Diablo to install it https://shop.ostdyno.com/shop/

What am I missing on the 11.8@115.6MPH run? Was it also around 4300 LBS? Is it wrong to pick the best run? Even plugging the 115.6 MPH and 4300 LBS into wallerracing calculator is still over 510HP. I don't see a drop in K&N giving you 25 HP and it is my understanding the calculator is based on wheel HP not flywheel HP. All I'm saying is that in my opinion the 6.4 is very underrated not just in stock form but how easy it is to get more HP when truly un-corked with things like good long tube headers and a better intake and proper tuning that's not compromised for warranty, MPG and emissions considerations. [/quote]



Not missing anything these cars are underrated in the HP as advertised - the on-board dyno screen on mine shows HP going over 500 often - the electronics package on the 1320 are pretty impressive - you have a simple tune put in for 93 octane that will get you around 520HP - only issue is an aftermarket tune kills your warranty - supposedly there will be a tune coming from Dodge that can be installed by only a Power Broker Dealer that will up the HP a little and be supposedly maintain the warranty - but I have not heard of the release date yet. The Power Broker thing is real as the dealer has to go through training and qualify staff - hence the reason only a select few were named

There are cars out there that have had mods installed like cams headers, porting etc and are already breaking into the tens - so there is a lot in these cars to unlock

Best "raw data" run bone stock was 11.89 at 113.75 w/ 3/4 tank of fuel. Corrected to sea level that's a 11.94 at 113.41. To be honest, that's something of a "unicorn" run for this car.

Best run to date is w/ K&N drop-in, aftermarket wheels & tires, and about 1/4 fuel level was 11.83 at 115.80, which is 11.87 at 115.6 corrected to sea level. That's by far the quickest & fastest pass to date.

The front wheel assemblies are definitely lighter and reduce rolling resistance; the rear wheel assemblies are heavier than OEM, but the car can hook up more consistently at lower tire pressures. Something in that combination of filter + wheels & tires helps it pull a little more MPH, but it doesn't always show up every run.

Look at the last three runs at Capitol on 3.25, which is the last event I ran "bone stock" w/ OEM Nexen drag radials... the corrected numbers are:
12.08 @ 113.30
12.15 @ 112.73
12.07 @ 112.90

Look at the last four runs from Mason-Dixon on 4.30, which was the aftermarket tire & wheels + K&N filter, where the corrected numbers are:
11.94 @ 113.53
11.99 @ 113.35
11.97 @ 113.50
11.99 @ 114.41

Only the first pass was actually in the 11s that day, and it clicked off consistent 12.0s the other three. FWIW, the fuel level was 3/4+ that day, which is about a half tank more than I run usually on track days.

When you take the differences in track conditions out and standardize them to the same atmospheric baseline, there's maybe a tenth and 1 MPH found w/ the tires & wheels and filter. But you don't see any "unicorn" runs here cuz the good air is taken out of the equation.

Can my full-interior 1320 run 11.8s "bone stock"? Yeah, but it's not a guaranteed thing. I'm still of the opinion -- based strongly on my own data which I don't make any effort to hide -- than a stock "full weight" 1320 is basically a 12.0 car. Pull my front passenger and rear seats and there's maybe 120 to 130 less lbs to haul around, so possibly 11.8s at 114+ w/ me under more typical conditions. Throw my son behind the wheel who weighs 70 lbs less than I do and maybe it's a 11.7 "stock" car w/o needing killer air.

However, having the best ET with this car doesn't matter much to me. Some 1320s seem to go faster, others are comparable to mine. I like the car and it's cool that I can take it to the track, as well as use it as my daily car.

I agree these cars are just fun as a driver and with the MDS getting close to the 24 MPG on the freeway to the track - a race car with a warranty is pretty hard to beat!

for what its worth. I have a 2020 1320. on a nice Saturday evening last summer i was out making a few hot laps on the main road by my house. with the data log going and the HP graph displayed on the dash i saw as High as 525hp on the graph with it holding thru 4th gear. the cars are very underrated. still super fun to drive, on the street or track.

i am still learning this data log thing with its computer, super cool car is worth every penny. in my opinion

There are some 1320s going below 11.7s. It shows their potential.

This one uses the single seat, drag front tires, stock drag radials, engine stock - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=csrN-PVWbNg&t=391s

Second one, came with only one drivers seat, drags wheels, light weight battery, stock engine - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e8486oNenUE (2:35 counter)

This event will show a wide variety of 1320s - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jafKV_tmsQA

That one guy claims 3960LBS and ran 120 MPH with drag radials, comes out to 527 HP while an 11.20 at that weight comes to over 550 HP.

Any car with the 392 will be the street-race car from now on. My 15 SRT amazes me every time I drive it (23,000 miles) 24-5 mpg at 70. Rear tires are the only thing holding these engines back (I think mine were made with grease) lol

Thats why put these on

Specs on your rear wheel and tire combo????
Brand and backspacing on the wheels especially.

Race Star 92-711452B , from Jegs, they are 17x11 +2mm offset [ 6in] Back space, had .500 machined off the mounting face, & shorten the shank on the lug nuts ,the wheel manufacture said they are made to do that, so now they are +14.7 mm [ 6.5 bs] they just clear the brake calipers ,anymore Back space & they would hit, Tires are 390/40/17 M&H , I had to put shorter sway bar links & heat up the plastic inner splash shields & massage them for clearance , they work great, I run the same tire on my 68 Charger & they hook awesome, still have not made it to the track in the Challenger, lots of other stuff going on, will try to make it this summer,fall. also I have the Lil Devil flares, the tire tread is just barely inside the edge, I also took all the neg camber out so it plants the complete tread surface not just the inside treads.

Thanks, exactly the info I needed!

I've been trying to figure out a combo to go with for some 17 inch drag radials for the back of my Challenger SRT.

Most people just bolt on a set of the correct offset 17x9.5 to 17x10.5 wheels, put on shorter end links, tweak the inner panels for clearance and call it done.

Or, go with 18x10 to 18x10.5 wheels and tweak the inner panels; the shorter end links aren't usually required. That was my approach, FWIW.

Either way, that's good for 305/40R with 18s (28" tall) or 305/45R with 17s (28" tall) or 18s (29" tall) while skipping the need to custom-fit the wheels to the car.

Just my $.02, since you mentioned looking for 17-inch options.

This view shows 305/40R18 MT ET Street S/S on Race Star Recluse 18x10.5 rear wheels.

I went through all the extra work because 1 I wanted a 29.5 tire 2 I like the Lil Devil flares & wanted to fill up the wheel well, not fond of the factory wide body flares, the wheel I have are for a factory wide body application & then cut down, IIRC it was $ 75 for both

@csk - Oh, I think your car looks great. I only wanted to point out that the steps you took aren't required simply to add some extra meat under the car.

A set of Lil Devils flares would like right at home on mine, too. But that's down the priority list at this point...

Thanks Brad, I understood what you were getting at & glad you posted a bolt on combo for our cars, not everyone wants to go through the process I did, I was also looking for the old school look of a dished rear wheel, love your 1320, beautiful Challenger, I REALLY like these cars !!!!!

What I've been looking at and leaning towards buying are these wheels.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/363632295511?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

I want to go with 17's because the car is a 6 speed manual/stick and I I've been told that the taller sidewall helps cut down on the wheel hop on the launch.

I like the VMS wheels better than mine, but opted for cheap(er) cuz additional wheels weren't in my original 1320 budget. Those VMS look similar to some Welds that I also think are very cool (and even more expensive).

Simply because of price, I grabbed some of the Race Star Series 95 Recluse wheels that are now discontinued and can be found for $130 each in remaining sizes. If you go directly thru Race Star, they'll add another $40-50 per wheel for shipping. If you can get 'em from Summit (not as many size & color options), then the shipping is covered. I ended up getting some from both, depending upon who had what in inventory. FWIW:

Race Star --> Click on wheel size & color displayed to check inventory on hand

Summit

EDIT - Mine are the gloss black Recluse wheels, but I like the gunmetal gray w/ machined face, too

Thanks for the info on the Race Stars.
I definitely like the pricing.

The question now is which color would look best on the car.

I like the machined face on these, but not sure about adding another color like metallic gray.
If only they were black with a machined face...



I love chrome.
I've always thought that the wheels are the bling jewelry on a car.



I've never been a fan of solid black wheels on a car, but considering the yellow and black theme on the car these aren't bad.

How much shorter of sway bar links did you install?

Source on them??

I bought the 17x10.5 Race Star Recluse wheels for the rear and doing a quick test fit for clearance the sway bar links will be in the way.
The stock links on mine are 10 inches long.
That looks like the only issue so far till I get tires.
I got the 18x5 wheels for the front.

LINK TO LINKS

I got the short Bwoody greasable ones in the link Brad posted

Thanks!!!

I have a 2019 1320 that I race in NHRA Stock Eliminator. The car started life as a flood car and was built to NHRA specs for the class. It runs in A/SA at a minimun weight of 3470 lbs with driver. It has a full roll cage and the car is converted to a solid axle rearend. The car uses a 904 transmission with an ATI 8" convertor. The engine must be built to NHRA specs, meaning stock cam lift and stock valve size, stock compression ratio, stock intake and stock throttle body size. The lifters and rockers are stock from Dodge. BBK's TB was approved so it could use a cable throtttle. Strange brakes are used with a 9 by 30" Goodyear tire. Best ET has been a 9.91 at 133 MPH Typical 60 foots are 1.32 -1.35 depending on the weather. Shift points are 7200-7500 and finish line rpm is around 7700-7800 with a 4.86 rear gear. Very solid engine so far. Thanks for reading. Dyno

Dyno1 - I've seen an article on that car

https://www.dodgegarage.com/news-ap...ak-1320-takes-drag-racing-to-school.html

Cool car, when do you plan to have it out again?

Brad, thanks for putting up the link to the the Dodge Garage article! I'll have the car out at the Topeka double division race end of July and at the national event at BIR and Indy. We just completed a new 392/6.4 for the car, but have not had a chance to dyno it yet. Thanks!

Very COOL !!!!!!