Gen 3 questions... lots of them.

Okay... so I'm rebuilding an older dirt late model to run at my local half mile. Right now I have a SBM 383 that had some damage and I'm repairing it to run next season.

The original configuration of this motor was mostly Mopar.... 3.79 crank, 340 bushed rods, W-2 ported heads and an M-1 port matched intake, purple shaft solid flat tappet, Mopar adj. rockers (also came with a set of T&D's), 3/8" valves... you get the idea. The PO ran it no more than 6500-6700 RPM's. Dyno'd at 575 HP. The engine was run in an IMCA type modified.

Now that I'll be running with a faster crowd that 575 is a little on the lean side for HP. The guys are running up to a bit north of 750 HP and I see 8200 RPM's on some tachs. No place for heavy valves, stock rockers and such. Typically these are built by Clement, RCR, Yates or another big name shop. 30k engines are not uncommon.

So I'm thinking about building a 700 HP Gen 3 for 2019. There are several different routes to go with this... 362 spec engine, iron block/aluminum head combo @ 370 CI, IMCA mod engine (which I have... all iron, flat tappet cam), and an open class for unlimited cubes, all aluminum running a 15/16" restrictor plate. Gotta run a 4 barrel carb. I think I can get away with the stock crank trigger ignition with the MSD box set-up.

I think a cam change in my present combo could get me to 625-640 HP so I'll need a bit more to make it worth my trouble.

What I THINK I know...

Any 5.7 block should work.

Ported early heads can flow 300+ on the intake but the stock Apache's can beat that out of the box.

Stock PM rods won't make the cut.

Stock 5.7 crank is cast?

The oiling system is camshaft priority... that scares me in an endurance deal. Anyone mod the block to oil the crank first?

I'll need a solid roller... T&D and Jesel make rockers.

What I DON'T THINK I know...

Stock valve covers? Yes or no?

Stock cam tunnel is how big? Are roller bearings worth the cost?

How long are the stock valves? How big can the valve spring diameter be if the heads are cut? What's the max. lift the beehives can handle?

Mopar or Ritter intake?

Maximum bore size?

Half fill in the block needed?

I'll need 13 1/2 to 14-1 compression with methanol... any problems there?

This is a good start... I'll be back.

The newer 5.7 and apache valve covers are taller however Steff switched to indys for a reason but i dont know if he even tried the newer covers.

On methenol I would go 15+ on compression.

Cam tunnel IDK

Oiling, you will need to get tips from the factory stock guys that spin their junk to 8500

Not sure if there is much difference in intakes but the mopar ones are alot more money

$1G for an intake is goofy money... but so is $2K for rockers!

I bought my intake for $550. I bet 7500rpm with a hyd cam and 700hp is possible with stock rockers.

Here are a few answers:

Oiling system:
The oiling system is not camshaft priority. Oil holes are drilled from each main brg bore to the corresponding cam journal. They intersect the main oil feed that runs thru the block, from front to back in between the cam & crank bores. Oil coming from the filter to the main oil feed, then feeds oil down to the mains and up to the cam. Intersecting off the #2 & #4 cam feed lines are the oil feeds to the cylinder heads & lifters.

Rockers:
I have the T & D's. They're very nice and are working well so far.

Lifters:
No one makes a solid roller lifter at the moment. HHP is working on some but they are still not available. I bugged them for awhile and just got a set of Hilift Johnson lifters and shimmed them solid with ground hardened washers. They are working good so far.

Heads:
I run the Thiteks with 2.165/1.65 valves. I use Pac Doulbles.

Stock Valve Covers:
I have the stock cast 6.1 VC's and they will not fit with the T & D's. Not enuff room under the covers. Had to go to cast Indy's.

Stock Cam tunnel:
I have the dims, just not with me at the moment. Not sure it's worth going to needle roller.

RItter Intake: Works well so far.

Max Bore Size will depend on sonic check of your block.

I spent most of Sunday reading thru the GenIII section of fastmopar dot com

http://www.fastmopar.com/forum/index.php?topic=1002.90

I found a lot of good stuff in there, and of course the typical banter.

I'm looking to do a 383 inch G3 myself ,
Bore 3.957 Stroke 3.9 and 6.125 rods. I'm thinking of something in the high .500s for lift and 220-230 @50. Not looking to make the kind of power you need but if I can get close to a solid high 500(575+) I'll be happy for now.

Good info.... This is mostly new to me. I'll need to think this over before I make a move but so far what I hear is promising.

I read that they have cam priority oiling.... Glad that's not correct.

There was a guy who built a roundy round 5.7 on here and he posted the build/specs. He did run into a problem when it ate the crank but I think it had something to do with using the stock 6.1 crank and it being cross drilled? He switched to an aftermarket crank and it seemed to solve the problem. Mentioning that, is that the reason high RPM Gen III's were eating cranks? I know I read that this was a problem and the consensus was the cross drilled 6.1 crank

Lots of opinions on cross drilled cranks... never had a problem with one but who knows?

From what I remember reading is the cross drilling causes oil starvation at high rpm on the Gen III's?

I think like Steff said in the other post. The oil pump turns 1 to 1 with the crank. May cause aeration, oil velocity may be to high. Who knows.

A dry sump system would fix that I'm sure...

Steff,

Doesn't Jessel make a drop in solid lifter?

Yes, they have a Dog Bone style at $230ish per lifter. Plus $350ish for the dog bones.

I've talked to numerous lifter manufacturers including Morel and they all have a solid lifter in their plans but no time line as to when.

From all the oiling issues that ever I've heard, and it's all third person, is all related to the factory cross drilled cranks. The Gen 3 aftermarket cranks available are not cross drilled. For the cost of an aftermarket crank, $750-850, to me, it's worth buying a new crank and keeping the stock stuff for lower rpm, street stuff.

Wooohaaaaa

Tons of Gen 3 info here....

http://www.enginebuildermag.com/2016/07/rebuilding-the-5-7l-hemi/

From a thread on the Unlawful section, another member remembered his handle and it's member CHAPPER.