Stroker or Forced induction?

Okay I am in need of some guidance as I am apparently not capable of deciding this on my own lol.

I have the foundation of a 7-800 hp build for my car with Thitek heads, Hellcat block, etc.

I just don't know what I would build. I will say I have always been in love with a high compression lumpy cammed engine, but I have to admit forced induction is cool too.

So, for a older muscle car, help me decide lol!

I will build the rest of the driveline to compliment the engine, and I have no ET goals. Just want a wicked street engine for my B body. One thing I know for sure is if it sounds like a stock engine I will be ticked! LOL.

Thanks!

Thank you all so far for voting. If anyone has a comment, I am all ears!

I don't have much input except to say that a 6.4 block stroker engine would be wicked as sin. Looking forward to your build whatever you decide...

Steff on this board built a 6.4 stroker with great success. I would be very happy with a build like his.

He definitely has a stout engine. Good luck with yours. It looks fun!

Stroker and your favorite flavor of boost.

My boost choice would be turbo.

Kevin

Twin turbo stroker b.b. is in my future.
Go all out.

I personally lean towards the turbo side. But if you're looking for a snotty intimidating hot rod motor that's not the right option. Nothing sounds more wicked going down the street than a nasty naturally aspirated motor. It's your build, your choice.

I would lean towards twin screw, just for a more wicked sound. my V10 twin screw makes 720 torque at 2500 rpm. Hard to beat instant torque round town. Max power turbo for the win.

Okay Gentlemen, I could use some more advice. I currently have a set of manley platinum pistons in the correct bore for this engine. I also have a set of Manley 300m material 6.125 connecting rods. Both of these sets of parts were assembled into a new engine, and then taken out.

I have been told various things about 300m rods. I know they are expensive to buy, but are they a good quality? I have been leaning towards Molnar rods as the crank I will be getting is a Molnar as well, but I thought I could save a few bucks and go with the Manley's.

Here is my math:

9.284 deck height

1.208 compression height pistons

6.125 rods

3.900 crank

410" at zero deck height.

Deck height is 9.239.

This may be true on the 6.1 blocks but his 6.284 number is correct for 6.4 and Hellcat blocks

I voted stroker based on goals for "personality".

That said, a NA stroker may be more in the 600-650 HP range as a guess. If you need 700+ I think forced induction is needed.

Piston & CR will most likely need to be different for NA vs forced induction. I believe you already have the piston so that may help decide.

Anyone know why they made the deck taller?

Where do you find that 9.284 dimension? Is this a published spec or an actual physical measurement?

Dave Webber at Modern Muscle

Great! Thanks.

I voted Procharger because that's what I Have.
A turbo would be how I'd go if it was in an old car.
Stroker don't make enough power when you want to go real fast.
How hard are you going to beat on it?

I have no ET goals, just want to build something that will run with a Hellcat.

A 2.9 Whipple will make a 1000 hp, it's fairly affordable, and it's a bolt on, give you plenty of leg to outrun a Hellcat. Turbos make a pile of HP but so does a twin screw. A supercharger would look more at home in a muscle car and give you that snorty, instant throttle response

BES built a 401 NA that made 700 under 6500 RPM for the engine masters a few years back, add another 20-30 cubes, a few more RPM and don't follow all the engine master rules and a normal guy should be able to do it.

I like NA because it is more simple under the hood than any other power adder. I get sick of working on these new fangled cars for a living because they try to stuff so much stuff under the hood, I want my hotrod to be simple.

If you want to read a well-written discussion of 300M, go to the website:
http://www.epi-eng.com/
Then click on the Piston Engine Technology button, then on the connecting rod subject.

Whether your connecting rods have notch sensitivity or not depends on the heat treat. This is discussed in that chapter.

R.

If you call $7000 plus affordable.

For the kind of power it can put out it's very affordable, and a smart way to do it. Drives like a pussycat but 1000 hp when you nail it, I'd say 7K well spent. Probably more like 10K, the drop in piston/rod combo is around 2K, the other 1K for head studs, good gaskets, headers etc. Unless you start with a big gas truck engine, they already come with forged pistons apparently