What input shaft mods req'd to mate 833 to 6.1L?

I know that I'll have to cut the input shaft to get adequate depth clearance. My real questions pertain to roller bearings vs bushings. I'm leery of using a roller bearing. Is there any way to use a bronze bushing?

Also, I will be using a factory built 6.1L short block out of a 2009 Challenger that was originally equipped with a TR6060 6 speed manual trans. Does anyone know what the 6 speed equipped 6.1L would have had for a bushing? Any idea if I will just be able to use the existing bushing?

Hate to burst your assumption bubble, but here is a picture of the Sachs clutch kit for a 2009 6.1 manual transmission challenger. Pay attention to THE ROLLER PILOT BEARING.
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4302981&cc=1443323&jsn=468
It looks exactly like the standard one that Dodge has used for nearly 20 years.

Will the input shaft need to be modified? Another assumption. Where did that come from?

What your question really points out is that there is no good reference material. It is really too bad that Chrysler hasn't been much more forthcoming with the information to make this a slam dunk swap. They should read and reread the famous Zora Arkus-Duntov letter to GM brass that laid the groundwork for the smallblock chevy's wdespread acceptance as the engine to use in a swap or hot rod.

If you really want a pilot bushing, use the steel spacer from the roller bearing and machine the bushing out of Oilite.

R.

Im using a stock roller bearing with my T56. Pretty sure you could mock up the trans and bellhousing on the engine and check fitment 100% before you made any changes.

Is that question such a stretch? Some non-stick Gen 3 crank flanges I've seen have the same shallow drilling as the late cast B and RB cranks with insufficient depth for an 833 pilot shaft.

Alex on here has an 833 behind the 6.1 in his Roadrunner, don't remember any issues and I also believe he is using a stock bell.

I have had my 833 behind my gen 3 for years
I had to trim the input shaft either 3/4 or 7/8 of an inch
This was using a small block mopar bellhousing
I also used a 90s model Dakota 318/360 truck pilot bearing

The bearing fits in the crank fine

I believe there is now a bellhousing made that allows use of the 833 without the trimming

Has anybody found the bellhousing out there that works with the 833 to a genIII?

I am struggling to find one.

If the crank pilot hole is too shallow drill it out... if it's too small of an OD drill it out... it may seem daunting until you doit then it be seem like it was a piece of cake.

Magnum roller bearing, 30 year old Lakewood SB bellhousing and a shortened 833.

I didn't have to drill the crank.

If you are running an aftermarket crank, some of them are drilled through on #5 main and plugged with a shallow engine freeze plug. Be careful